DINODENASH
Active member
awesome work !!!!:chef:
-
Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
Corsa C Ute - Another Toy Story
- Thread starter gavsadler
- Start date
gavsadler
///Member
Update time:
So a whole bunch of stuff arrived from the UK. First up, I brought in some replacement bush kits, to address the play on my gear lever, and also to tighten up the selector action where it fits on top of the gearbox.
Here are the bush kits:
The small white bush fits on the selector on top of the gearbox, as these pics illustrate:
I don't have any pics of when I did the job, as space was minimal and it was a fairly greasy experience.
Moving to the inside, here is a quick video of the play of the gear lever:
[video=youtube]
Stripping the gear lever out of the car, you can see the bits of worn out bush lying in the mechanism itself and on the carpet:
Stripped, cleaned and ready for reassembly with the new bush kit:
Assembly completed:
And here is a video after the repairs, you'll notice there is much less play:
[video=youtube]
Driving it after the repairs, the shifts are much more positive, with less stirring of a soup pot. The combination of both these bush kits has made a big difference.
Also, I had a hum coming from the back of the Ute (wheel bearings), so fitted new wheel bearings / stub axles on the back. Also a dirty job, so not many pics taken. Essentially, I had to remove the brake calipers and discs, remove the old stub axles, fit the new ones and then put everything back together again.
Old vs new:
That's all for now, next on the list is to repair / replace the oil cooler pipes, a general service and possibly a turbo overhaul.
Thanks for reading.
So a whole bunch of stuff arrived from the UK. First up, I brought in some replacement bush kits, to address the play on my gear lever, and also to tighten up the selector action where it fits on top of the gearbox.
Here are the bush kits:
The small white bush fits on the selector on top of the gearbox, as these pics illustrate:
I don't have any pics of when I did the job, as space was minimal and it was a fairly greasy experience.
Moving to the inside, here is a quick video of the play of the gear lever:
[video=youtube]
Stripping the gear lever out of the car, you can see the bits of worn out bush lying in the mechanism itself and on the carpet:
Stripped, cleaned and ready for reassembly with the new bush kit:
Assembly completed:
And here is a video after the repairs, you'll notice there is much less play:
[video=youtube]
Driving it after the repairs, the shifts are much more positive, with less stirring of a soup pot. The combination of both these bush kits has made a big difference.
Also, I had a hum coming from the back of the Ute (wheel bearings), so fitted new wheel bearings / stub axles on the back. Also a dirty job, so not many pics taken. Essentially, I had to remove the brake calipers and discs, remove the old stub axles, fit the new ones and then put everything back together again.
Old vs new:
That's all for now, next on the list is to repair / replace the oil cooler pipes, a general service and possibly a turbo overhaul.
Thanks for reading.
gavsadler
///Member
I can't believe I haven't updated this thread since January :hammerhead:
Well, actually I can, been too busy with work and other 4-wheeled projects of late. Anyways, let me bring this thread up to speed.
Feb-2018:
I decided it was time to give the load bed a refurb. The Durabak which I used has been lasting really well, so this was more a refresh than anything else. I only did 1 coat this time round.
Some pics of the job in-progress and then the end result:
Also, over the December holidays last year, and into the new year, I was also busy overhauling my Armadillo roll-a-door. I repainted it completely, and also fitted some new foam sealing tape etc.
Here's a pic of the end result:
Apr-2018:
MY headlights were looking a bit dull again, so one weekend when I had some free time, I tackled the headlights with water paper, my machine polisher and some various compounds of polishes and sealants.
Before:
After:
Aug-2018:
Having postponed a lot of mechanical maintenance, it was time to tackle some important jobs. I've had an oil leak for some time, which I seemingly traced to the oil cooler. This is a real PITA to get to, as it sits at the back of the motor, right under the intake manifold.
First step was to source all the parts I needed to get this job done. First off was a new oil cooler, this I managed to get from Goldwagen for around R1000 (the agents want R7500 for the OEM one).
Next up, replacement oil cooler lines. I ended up buying a 2nd hand oil cooler and pipes (from the UK of all places), so that I could get lines made up before taking my Ute off the road for surgery. I ended up getting some Teflon braided hoses made up at my local Hydraulics shop. I also got some new copper washers at the same time. Cost for these was R1100.
For shits and giggles, I again popped into GM (now Opel) to enquire how much new OEM lines cost. The parts guy advised me to sit down. "The supply line is R2500 and the return line is R15700. Both pipes with VAT will be over R20000" :roflol: (And Yes, that is not a typo. R20k for 2 pipes).
Moving along, I had everything needed to begin with the work, so the Ute was parked in the service bay (aka back yard) and I commenced with the job. I didn't end up taking too many pictures throughout, as it was a real dirty job and I was pressed for time.
Intake manifold off, to reveal the oil cooler and lines:
The offending pipe (supply) which was leaking on the join:
The return line looks ok:
I did some cleaning while everything was off (as best as I could, before fitting the new oil cooler and lines:
Space is minimal by the crank dampener pulley:
After this, I refitted the intake manifold (with new gasket), throttle body, boost pipes etc. I started the car, and thankfully the oil pressure was good, and no puddles or leaks. Job done :smilebounce:
Now that this major job was done, it was time to tackle the next major items, those being changing the sump gaskets (because I suspect there was a leak there too), and that would be followed by an overhaul of the turbo.
So up the Ute went on trestles, I drained the oil and coolant in preparation for the jobs which followed.
For the sump gaskets change, I didn't take any pics (sorry). It was a real messy job, and in this application, also a PITA (my new favourite word it seems, lol). On these motors, the sump is a 2 piece unit, the upper aluminium section which mounts onto the block, and then a steel lower section which essentially holds the oil.
To get the lower sump off, I have to loosen engine mounts, and actually lift the motor up, to free up space so that I can get to the bolts hiding behind the sub-frame. The upper sump also has some issues wangling into and out of the tight space.
Nevertheless, after lots of sweating and bruised knuckles, the job was done.
Next update will be on the turbo overhaul.
Well, actually I can, been too busy with work and other 4-wheeled projects of late. Anyways, let me bring this thread up to speed.
Feb-2018:
I decided it was time to give the load bed a refurb. The Durabak which I used has been lasting really well, so this was more a refresh than anything else. I only did 1 coat this time round.
Some pics of the job in-progress and then the end result:
Also, over the December holidays last year, and into the new year, I was also busy overhauling my Armadillo roll-a-door. I repainted it completely, and also fitted some new foam sealing tape etc.
Here's a pic of the end result:
Apr-2018:
MY headlights were looking a bit dull again, so one weekend when I had some free time, I tackled the headlights with water paper, my machine polisher and some various compounds of polishes and sealants.
Before:
After:
Aug-2018:
Having postponed a lot of mechanical maintenance, it was time to tackle some important jobs. I've had an oil leak for some time, which I seemingly traced to the oil cooler. This is a real PITA to get to, as it sits at the back of the motor, right under the intake manifold.
First step was to source all the parts I needed to get this job done. First off was a new oil cooler, this I managed to get from Goldwagen for around R1000 (the agents want R7500 for the OEM one).
Next up, replacement oil cooler lines. I ended up buying a 2nd hand oil cooler and pipes (from the UK of all places), so that I could get lines made up before taking my Ute off the road for surgery. I ended up getting some Teflon braided hoses made up at my local Hydraulics shop. I also got some new copper washers at the same time. Cost for these was R1100.
For shits and giggles, I again popped into GM (now Opel) to enquire how much new OEM lines cost. The parts guy advised me to sit down. "The supply line is R2500 and the return line is R15700. Both pipes with VAT will be over R20000" :roflol: (And Yes, that is not a typo. R20k for 2 pipes).
Moving along, I had everything needed to begin with the work, so the Ute was parked in the service bay (aka back yard) and I commenced with the job. I didn't end up taking too many pictures throughout, as it was a real dirty job and I was pressed for time.
Intake manifold off, to reveal the oil cooler and lines:
The offending pipe (supply) which was leaking on the join:
The return line looks ok:
I did some cleaning while everything was off (as best as I could, before fitting the new oil cooler and lines:
Space is minimal by the crank dampener pulley:
After this, I refitted the intake manifold (with new gasket), throttle body, boost pipes etc. I started the car, and thankfully the oil pressure was good, and no puddles or leaks. Job done :smilebounce:
Now that this major job was done, it was time to tackle the next major items, those being changing the sump gaskets (because I suspect there was a leak there too), and that would be followed by an overhaul of the turbo.
So up the Ute went on trestles, I drained the oil and coolant in preparation for the jobs which followed.
For the sump gaskets change, I didn't take any pics (sorry). It was a real messy job, and in this application, also a PITA (my new favourite word it seems, lol). On these motors, the sump is a 2 piece unit, the upper aluminium section which mounts onto the block, and then a steel lower section which essentially holds the oil.
To get the lower sump off, I have to loosen engine mounts, and actually lift the motor up, to free up space so that I can get to the bolts hiding behind the sub-frame. The upper sump also has some issues wangling into and out of the tight space.
Nevertheless, after lots of sweating and bruised knuckles, the job was done.
Next update will be on the turbo overhaul.
gavsadler
///Member
Sep-2018:
So, given that it's major service time for the Ute, I also did a few other things as well. The air filter was given a proper clean, spark plugs were checked as well (still burning nicely, so no need to replace). I also decided it was time to change the fuel filters.
For my custom setup, I am running the OEM metal in-line filter, but then in addition, I'm running a small plastic in-line filter before that. I've changed the plastic filter twice before (approx. every 20000kms, but I haven't yet changed the metal filter.
Here's a pic of the old plastic filter (done approx. 30000kms):
And here's a pic of the metal filter (after approx. 60000kms):
New filters fitted:
So, given that it's major service time for the Ute, I also did a few other things as well. The air filter was given a proper clean, spark plugs were checked as well (still burning nicely, so no need to replace). I also decided it was time to change the fuel filters.
For my custom setup, I am running the OEM metal in-line filter, but then in addition, I'm running a small plastic in-line filter before that. I've changed the plastic filter twice before (approx. every 20000kms, but I haven't yet changed the metal filter.
Here's a pic of the old plastic filter (done approx. 30000kms):
And here's a pic of the metal filter (after approx. 60000kms):
New filters fitted:
gavsadler
///Member
Right, time for the turbo update....
My turbo has been smoking for some time now, but the last 6 months things have gotten worse. The main issues were on cold start, and probably the first 5mins of driving, it would leave fairly big clouds of smoke out the back, not ideal when trying to leave somewhere keeping a low profile.
Here's a quick vid of the puffing at idle:
[video=youtube]
So, turbo stripped off the motor:
Closer inspection of the turbo revealed that the seals have gone. There is evidence of oil seepage into the compressor housing as well as the exhaust housing. There is also the common fault of a small crack appearing by the wastegate. This was apparently resolved on the LEH turbos (which this one is), but it seems like heat has won the battle on this manifold.
I took the turbo to Gaby from Fastec Turbochargers, based at Rand Airport. A couple of days later, he called to let me know it's ready for collection. He replaced the main shaft (& exhaust wheel), the backing plate for the compressor housing, and also a full service kit (bushes and seals). The turbo was also fully balanced on a high speed balancer (up to 150000rpm).
It also came back cleaner than when I sent it in:
Here you can see the small crack by the wastegate:
A pic of the old shaft, you can see some wear at each end:
The old backing plate, bushes and seals:
I refitted everything, and I'm pleased to report that all is well. No more clouds of smoke :smilebounce:
[video=youtube]
The next day, the Ute was back at work, I took one of my old coupe shells to the scrap metal yard:
My turbo has been smoking for some time now, but the last 6 months things have gotten worse. The main issues were on cold start, and probably the first 5mins of driving, it would leave fairly big clouds of smoke out the back, not ideal when trying to leave somewhere keeping a low profile.
Here's a quick vid of the puffing at idle:
[video=youtube]
So, turbo stripped off the motor:
Closer inspection of the turbo revealed that the seals have gone. There is evidence of oil seepage into the compressor housing as well as the exhaust housing. There is also the common fault of a small crack appearing by the wastegate. This was apparently resolved on the LEH turbos (which this one is), but it seems like heat has won the battle on this manifold.
I took the turbo to Gaby from Fastec Turbochargers, based at Rand Airport. A couple of days later, he called to let me know it's ready for collection. He replaced the main shaft (& exhaust wheel), the backing plate for the compressor housing, and also a full service kit (bushes and seals). The turbo was also fully balanced on a high speed balancer (up to 150000rpm).
It also came back cleaner than when I sent it in:
Here you can see the small crack by the wastegate:
A pic of the old shaft, you can see some wear at each end:
The old backing plate, bushes and seals:
I refitted everything, and I'm pleased to report that all is well. No more clouds of smoke :smilebounce:
[video=youtube]
The next day, the Ute was back at work, I took one of my old coupe shells to the scrap metal yard:
gavsadler
///Member
Update time...
So towards the end of last year, my brother-in-law gave me a new head unit which he wasn't using. Nothing fancy, but a JVC that does a few tricks like bluetooth, handsfree and so on. Also, no more CD slot, so will have to play music via USB or bluetooth streaming.
It's also a nice compact design, so should free up some much needed space at the bottom of the dash:
I didn't want to chop up too much wiring, so used a plug from one of my donor coupes and made an adaptor harness, from the head unit, to my existing wiring:
Installation was also fairly straight-forward, and I reattached my trim plate:
I also ran the microphone wire and mounted it just below the rearview mirror:
So far all is working well, the issues I had with radio signal on the previous head unit are now also a distant memory.
I haven't fiddled with too many of the settings, but it plays decently, and people can hear me on the phone when connecting via bluetooth etc.
Also, something else long overdue, was a good detailing session.
I whipped out all the products, and taught my weekly handyman the art of using a clay bar and detailing spray.
Thereafter, we used some Menzerna SF3500 to polish and remove some fine swirls, followed by Menzerna Powerlock - a sealant to protect the paint.
Sorry not the best pics, but should give you some idea of the outcome:
I also decided to add a small blue badge on the back, something I've been wanting to do for a long time, once all the niggles were fixed:
Lastly, in November I also decided to get 2 of my rims fixed. This was due to pothole damage, as well as the chop who rode into me about 2 years ago.
Hi-Tech mag repairs did the work again, and I am pleased with the outcome as always:
Since then, it has been doing it's daily duties well. I've also taken another Coupe shell to scrap, delivered an engine to the west rand, and embarked on a 1-day road trip to Nelspruit and back to fetch a friend's new 2-wheeled toy.
Next on the to-do list is a refresh of the sealing tape on my Armadillo. Will get to that in the next few weeks.
So towards the end of last year, my brother-in-law gave me a new head unit which he wasn't using. Nothing fancy, but a JVC that does a few tricks like bluetooth, handsfree and so on. Also, no more CD slot, so will have to play music via USB or bluetooth streaming.
It's also a nice compact design, so should free up some much needed space at the bottom of the dash:
I didn't want to chop up too much wiring, so used a plug from one of my donor coupes and made an adaptor harness, from the head unit, to my existing wiring:
Installation was also fairly straight-forward, and I reattached my trim plate:
I also ran the microphone wire and mounted it just below the rearview mirror:
So far all is working well, the issues I had with radio signal on the previous head unit are now also a distant memory.
I haven't fiddled with too many of the settings, but it plays decently, and people can hear me on the phone when connecting via bluetooth etc.
Also, something else long overdue, was a good detailing session.
I whipped out all the products, and taught my weekly handyman the art of using a clay bar and detailing spray.
Thereafter, we used some Menzerna SF3500 to polish and remove some fine swirls, followed by Menzerna Powerlock - a sealant to protect the paint.
Sorry not the best pics, but should give you some idea of the outcome:
I also decided to add a small blue badge on the back, something I've been wanting to do for a long time, once all the niggles were fixed:
Lastly, in November I also decided to get 2 of my rims fixed. This was due to pothole damage, as well as the chop who rode into me about 2 years ago.
Hi-Tech mag repairs did the work again, and I am pleased with the outcome as always:
Since then, it has been doing it's daily duties well. I've also taken another Coupe shell to scrap, delivered an engine to the west rand, and embarked on a 1-day road trip to Nelspruit and back to fetch a friend's new 2-wheeled toy.
Next on the to-do list is a refresh of the sealing tape on my Armadillo. Will get to that in the next few weeks.
FerdiBotha
Well-known member
If only all Corsa Utes came like this instead of the gutless 1.4 or 1.8 motors :hammerhead:
Great work as always!
Great work as always!
StrollingCoal
Active member
Wow! Really enjoyed reading this build thread, well documented with just enough detail to make you want to keep reading. 
raise:
**On a side note I should stop reading your build threads...my master's thesis isn't going to write itself :fencelook:
raise:**On a side note I should stop reading your build threads...my master's thesis isn't going to write itself :fencelook:
200 octane
Member
Awesome work and dedication in persuit of perfection.
Not sure if you repaired your wastegate and if the Corsa OPC unit is similar or can be used. I have one lying around. Sadly, I'm based in Cape town.
Not sure if you repaired your wastegate and if the Corsa OPC unit is similar or can be used. I have one lying around. Sadly, I'm based in Cape town.
Charlie Brown
Member
What an awesome read Sir, great job.
gavsadler
///Member
Update June 2019:
Only a few updates here in the past few months.
In March, I had some sudden issues on the way home one afternoon when there was a sudden loss of power, and lots of misfiring. It almost sounded like a dead coil pack or spark plugs.
Further investigation revealed that with the motor running, battery voltage was only 12.2v i.e the alternator is not doing it's job.
I didn't take many pics of this job, but managed to wangle the alternator out in "only 2 hours" :hammerhead:
I took it down to my local Auto-Electrician, and they reconditioned it: new brushes, new bearings.
Some pics of the alternator after the service:
As a FYI: this is a 100Ah alternator, the newer motors from the Astra H OPC make use of a 120Ah alternator:
To reinstall was much easier (probably because I was now familiar with the tricks and space available).
I also fitted a new alternator v-belt:
And.... all good again:
Then, in May, I arrived home one day, and then about 30seconds after I switched off, I heard a pop, followed by some hissing. I came out the garage to find steam escaping from the bonnet edges.
Damn! :hammerhead:
Some investigation revealed that the leak was coming from somewhere deep in the bowels of the motor, at the back, under the intake manifold. So this could be 3 things:
1) welsh plug has said howzit
2) water pipes from water pump to oil cooler,
3) new oil cooler has said howzit.
I proceeded to strip everything off to get to where I needed to be. The oil cooler looked fine, and the welsh plugs also looked good, so that left only the 2 waterpipes to be investigated.
And here's the culprit: main water pipe from waterpump to oil cooler:
Thankfully, I had a good spare from some parts I imported last year, so I cleaned up that pipe and fitted it. (Incidentally, this pipe new from Opel is R860).
Some random pics of the new pipe going back in:
So far so good, it hasn't missed a beat since then. I've ordered new silicone hoses from the UK as well, and these will be fitted next time round...
Only a few updates here in the past few months.
In March, I had some sudden issues on the way home one afternoon when there was a sudden loss of power, and lots of misfiring. It almost sounded like a dead coil pack or spark plugs.
Further investigation revealed that with the motor running, battery voltage was only 12.2v i.e the alternator is not doing it's job.
I didn't take many pics of this job, but managed to wangle the alternator out in "only 2 hours" :hammerhead:
I took it down to my local Auto-Electrician, and they reconditioned it: new brushes, new bearings.
Some pics of the alternator after the service:
As a FYI: this is a 100Ah alternator, the newer motors from the Astra H OPC make use of a 120Ah alternator:
To reinstall was much easier (probably because I was now familiar with the tricks and space available).
I also fitted a new alternator v-belt:
And.... all good again:
Then, in May, I arrived home one day, and then about 30seconds after I switched off, I heard a pop, followed by some hissing. I came out the garage to find steam escaping from the bonnet edges.
Damn! :hammerhead:
Some investigation revealed that the leak was coming from somewhere deep in the bowels of the motor, at the back, under the intake manifold. So this could be 3 things:
1) welsh plug has said howzit
2) water pipes from water pump to oil cooler,
3) new oil cooler has said howzit.
I proceeded to strip everything off to get to where I needed to be. The oil cooler looked fine, and the welsh plugs also looked good, so that left only the 2 waterpipes to be investigated.
And here's the culprit: main water pipe from waterpump to oil cooler:
Thankfully, I had a good spare from some parts I imported last year, so I cleaned up that pipe and fitted it. (Incidentally, this pipe new from Opel is R860).
Some random pics of the new pipe going back in:
So far so good, it hasn't missed a beat since then. I've ordered new silicone hoses from the UK as well, and these will be fitted next time round...
gavsadler
///Member
Update Sep-2019:
I'm a bit far behind with updates on my Ute (going back to June), so going to do my best to get current.
Going back to the beginning of June, BMW CCG hosted a Gymkhana at The Rock Raceway. I thoroughly enjoy these events so registered in good time. It was a great day out, fairly chilly and windy though, but enjoyable nonetheless.
The day started off great when a Yellow GT3 RS lined up next to me at the robot. What a glorious sound as he blasted off into the distance... even better when I saw him pulling into the same venue.
There was a great turnout of cars, with some properly prepped machines ripping up the tarmac. More details and pictures can be found here:
https://bmwcarclub.co.za/index.php/...9-06-09-bridgestone-the-rock-autocross-review
I just included a couple of pics of me in action, getting some lean going :smilebounce:
Some pics of the pits and some other special machines:
For sh1ts and giggles I strapped the GoPro on as well for the various runs. The video below was of Session#1 which was my first outing on the track.
**Disclaimer** I am not The Stig, and don't have ambitions to get there anytime soon.:biglol:
[video=youtube]
My wife and 2 little madams also popped in to surprise me in the afternoon, and she took a video from the sidelines:
[video=youtube]
Moving along, the rest of June was fairly quiet, with the next area of focus being Raceday 2019. Going into July, everything was going well on the Ute, the only plans being to do a service and check things over before Raceday.
I had an annoying oil leak/sweat at the back of the motor - essentially where I had plumbed in an extra oil pressure switch (for my gauges). The plans were to jack the Ute up, secure with trestles, and replace a small pipe. A 30min job, followed by an oil change, filters etc. Quick and easy, a task to do the weekend before Raceday....
Well that escalated quickly. After replacing this pipe, we were letting the Ute idle to check for leaks and to warm up the oil. Next thing we notice a small pool of oil developing right below where the block and gearbox meet up. So after a look of dispair and a slump of the shoulders, we realised that this is going to turn into a big job. Time for a new rear main seal amongst other things.
A short while later we began stripping off the various bits and pieces. We had to strip off some suspension bits, pull out the drive shafts, loosen a few gearbox mounts and also drop the subframe, to make place for the big box to drop out the bottom (space is minimal lol).
Gearbox out and looking a bit sad. I must say though that this oil residue on the top of the box was most likely due to a leaking tappet cover gasket which I also subsequently replaced:
Some evidence of a leaky rear main seal:
The release bearing was also kaput, and singing like a canary when spinning it by hand. Another part to be replaced....
While the box was out, the right thing to do would be to replace the clutch at the same time, as I don't want to have to do this task again anytime soon. Also, I had noticed that the clutch was starting to slip ever so slightly when punching it in 2nd gear with the methanol active. I believe this is still the original clutch etc, so it's done well for 18years / 180000kms.
Overall I don't think it looks too bad, there is some wear, but I have also seen much worse...
Heat spots on the pressure plate indicative of where it was taking strain and beginning to slip:
Some sweat around the rear main seal:
And after pulling off the flywheel, it was also showing some signs of pain:
Next update will be on the repair process...
I'm a bit far behind with updates on my Ute (going back to June), so going to do my best to get current.
Going back to the beginning of June, BMW CCG hosted a Gymkhana at The Rock Raceway. I thoroughly enjoy these events so registered in good time. It was a great day out, fairly chilly and windy though, but enjoyable nonetheless.
The day started off great when a Yellow GT3 RS lined up next to me at the robot. What a glorious sound as he blasted off into the distance... even better when I saw him pulling into the same venue.
There was a great turnout of cars, with some properly prepped machines ripping up the tarmac. More details and pictures can be found here:
https://bmwcarclub.co.za/index.php/...9-06-09-bridgestone-the-rock-autocross-review
I just included a couple of pics of me in action, getting some lean going :smilebounce:
Some pics of the pits and some other special machines:
For sh1ts and giggles I strapped the GoPro on as well for the various runs. The video below was of Session#1 which was my first outing on the track.
**Disclaimer** I am not The Stig, and don't have ambitions to get there anytime soon.:biglol:
[video=youtube]
My wife and 2 little madams also popped in to surprise me in the afternoon, and she took a video from the sidelines:
[video=youtube]
Moving along, the rest of June was fairly quiet, with the next area of focus being Raceday 2019. Going into July, everything was going well on the Ute, the only plans being to do a service and check things over before Raceday.
I had an annoying oil leak/sweat at the back of the motor - essentially where I had plumbed in an extra oil pressure switch (for my gauges). The plans were to jack the Ute up, secure with trestles, and replace a small pipe. A 30min job, followed by an oil change, filters etc. Quick and easy, a task to do the weekend before Raceday....
Well that escalated quickly. After replacing this pipe, we were letting the Ute idle to check for leaks and to warm up the oil. Next thing we notice a small pool of oil developing right below where the block and gearbox meet up. So after a look of dispair and a slump of the shoulders, we realised that this is going to turn into a big job. Time for a new rear main seal amongst other things.
A short while later we began stripping off the various bits and pieces. We had to strip off some suspension bits, pull out the drive shafts, loosen a few gearbox mounts and also drop the subframe, to make place for the big box to drop out the bottom (space is minimal lol).
Gearbox out and looking a bit sad. I must say though that this oil residue on the top of the box was most likely due to a leaking tappet cover gasket which I also subsequently replaced:
Some evidence of a leaky rear main seal:
The release bearing was also kaput, and singing like a canary when spinning it by hand. Another part to be replaced....
While the box was out, the right thing to do would be to replace the clutch at the same time, as I don't want to have to do this task again anytime soon. Also, I had noticed that the clutch was starting to slip ever so slightly when punching it in 2nd gear with the methanol active. I believe this is still the original clutch etc, so it's done well for 18years / 180000kms.
Overall I don't think it looks too bad, there is some wear, but I have also seen much worse...
Heat spots on the pressure plate indicative of where it was taking strain and beginning to slip:
Some sweat around the rear main seal:
And after pulling off the flywheel, it was also showing some signs of pain:
Next update will be on the repair process...
gavsadler
///Member
Closer inspection of the flywheel revealed that it was in good shape, there were no score marks in the surface at all, only a bit of polishing / shine where the clutch was slipping. I decided to clean up the flywheel at home, and not take it for a skim.
So after about an hour of intense effort with some water paper, it was all cleaned up and ready to go...
Some pics of the old clutch and pressure plate, next to the new parts (note OEM part was also LUK):
While all this was happening, my assistant was cleaning up the gearbox:
Time to replace the old release bearing and slave cylinder with the new one:
In getting everything ready to be reinstalled, I also decided to replace my anti-roll bar bushes on the subframe:
So after about an hour of intense effort with some water paper, it was all cleaned up and ready to go...
Some pics of the old clutch and pressure plate, next to the new parts (note OEM part was also LUK):
While all this was happening, my assistant was cleaning up the gearbox:
Time to replace the old release bearing and slave cylinder with the new one:
In getting everything ready to be reinstalled, I also decided to replace my anti-roll bar bushes on the subframe:
gavsadler
///Member
For good measure, I also decided it would be a good idea to change the 2 sump gaskets whilst everything was up in the air and opened up. Just to make sure that all seals are fresh and eliminate the next point of failure in terms of leaks. I had experienced what looked to be some leaks at the back of the block, which I thought was the small pipe which I mentioned a little earlier which was replaced. Subsequently it turned out to be a leaking tappet cover.
Anyways, cleaning up the upper sump and preparing for fitment:
And a pic of the balancer shafts and pickup for the oil pump:
Upper sump installed:
Lower sump installed:
And new oil filter:
Now it was time to closeup the side of the motor and reinstall the gearbox. New rear main seal installed:
Flywheel installed:
New clutch and pressure plate installed:
We were dreading the next step, which was to lift up the big, heavy box into the small space and fit. Thankfully this went remarkably smoothly and on the 2nd attempt everything lined up perfectly and it was in place.
So everything up to now was a Saturday and Sunday. There were still a few things to do to get the Ute ready for the road (and also the track day in 6 days time).
The following Wednesday I had a bit of free time, and managed to button everything up and get the Ute on it's wheels again.
New fluids in...
And after running for a couple of mins, I checked underneathmgwaiting:
And this is what subsequently turned out to be a leaking tappet cover gasket. Details on this repair later on.
Anyways, cleaning up the upper sump and preparing for fitment:
And a pic of the balancer shafts and pickup for the oil pump:
Upper sump installed:
Lower sump installed:
And new oil filter:
Now it was time to closeup the side of the motor and reinstall the gearbox. New rear main seal installed:
Flywheel installed:
New clutch and pressure plate installed:
We were dreading the next step, which was to lift up the big, heavy box into the small space and fit. Thankfully this went remarkably smoothly and on the 2nd attempt everything lined up perfectly and it was in place.
So everything up to now was a Saturday and Sunday. There were still a few things to do to get the Ute ready for the road (and also the track day in 6 days time).
The following Wednesday I had a bit of free time, and managed to button everything up and get the Ute on it's wheels again.
New fluids in...
And after running for a couple of mins, I checked underneath
mgwaiting:
And this is what subsequently turned out to be a leaking tappet cover gasket. Details on this repair later on.
