Hello everyone,
So it’s been ages since I posted an update, 2016 has really been hectic and chaotic, so much going on. Work has been extremely busy, and on the personal front, a lot has also been happening. In the past 4 months, my brother and his family emigrated to Oz, we bought a new house and I was also blessed with the arrival of our 2nd daughter in March. In fact, she will be 2 months old this weekend. Time is flying….
In light of all of the above, very little happens on the car front now. No spare time to do anything, even a good ol’ wash only happens every few weeks unfortunately.
Anyways, let me provide a quick update on what has happened on the car front the past few months.
In January, just before going back to work, I decided to try make some fitted floor mats. The process was quite straight forward, and the end result looked really good. See pics below:
Having lived with them for a few months now, I can’t say things are still as good. The carpeting is rather thin and not as hard-wearing as traditional floor mats, so it is already wearing thin where my heels rest, and also due to not having any sort of sticky stuff underneath, it does tend to move around a little. Not ideal, and I had plans to try sort that out, but time is short. So I’ll leave them as-is, until I get time to try out floor mats v2.0.
Also in January, during my sleep-deprived state (the reason for which I cannot remember), I managed to successfully kerb my wheel on the pavement leaving work. Very irritating indeed, and because of the black chrome finish on the wheels, it cannot be touched up, the entire rim will need to be re-sprayed. At this stage, I don’t have spare cash to throw at that, so for now it will be a stark reminder to try and be more alert – sleep deprived or not.
Around this time as well, I managed to source a replacement turbo oil return pipe from the UK, along with a replacement seal to fit between the pipe and the turbo manifold. What I initially thought would be a good deal, turned out to be expensive thanks to customs, shipment costs and other admin fees from the local courier company. Anyways, this is what arrived from the UK:
Unfortunately, I was also done a dirty, because it is not the part that I actually required. Looking at the top flange, it is not machined bigger to accept the newer version of the o-ring seal:
This is what it should have looked like:
This is what the original pipe looks like:
So all-in-all, some school fees were paid from my side. I was hoping to fit the newer generation pipe, which has a rubber section instead of the metal flex section, as well as the o-ring seal instead of a steel gasket. Being halfway there, I decided to fit the pipe anyway and managed to source a new steel gasket locally. I’m glad I did, because testing my original pipe afterwards – there was a small leak on the steel flex section. Hopefully this would cure the puddle of oil I left wherever I ended up stopping.
Moving on to April 2016, I began to notice that the Ute was beginning to perform really crappy when using high boost and meth injection. I thought it may simply be a change of season, and the colder air going into the motor was messing with the air-fuel ratios when under load and injecting meth. I tried adjusting the meth controller, but the problem persisted and eventually got worse – as in the Ute would not pull at all when injecting meth. This led me to believe that maybe my spark plugs are kaput, and the meth is essentially extinguishing the flame.
Below are some pics of the plugs. Note that using a feeler gauge gapped to 0.8mm, it fitted comfortably in each of the plugs – this gap is too big, and most likely explains the reason for the misfiring. Also to note is that these plugs were fitted in Feb-2013 when I fitted the new turbo, they have done approx. 35000kms (20000kms of which subsequent to installing the water-meth kit):
Plug 1:
Plug 2:
Plug 3:
Plug 4:
I scratched around and found my old plugs from when I first fitted the 2l motor to my Ute. These were approx. 6months old / 10000kms, they still looked good, so I checked that the gap is 0.6mm and then fitted these again:
After swapping out the plugs, I am happy to report that all was well again, Ute was pulling like a machine with the water-meth.
But the happiness was short-lived, as the next issue arose. My speedo began doing all sorts of funky things, reading intermittently, and what was strangest of all, is that it kept dropping speed (like the rev counter) between gear changes. I suspected either a dodgy speedo sensor, or a fault in the wiring somewhere. There is also no space in the engine bay, and my speedo pickup fits into the back of the gearbox, between the motor and the firewall.
One day I managed to reach down and fiddle with the plugs a bit, and after that – no speedo at all. So I then knew that there was a wiring issue. Further investigations that weekend revealed the following: a broken speedo wire on the engine harness side:
I managed to strip away a few things to get better access, and after a relatively simple job to solder the wire together again, all was well with the speedo.
Having replaced the turbo oil return pipe, I thought all was well, until about a week after I did the job when I noticed another drip on the paving. This was very annoying, but further investigation revealed that it was now leaking at the steel gasket where it connects to the turbo manifold (now you know why they changed this to the o-ring type of seal).
Quite frankly I was irritated, and didn’t have another few grand to fork out on another pipe. I decided to rather try fix it again, so I pulled the pipe off, and after cleaning up everything, I applied a very thin layer of gasket maker to each side of the gasket and refitted the pipe (this is the same gasket maker I used when I changed the sump over). So far so good. I haven’t seen any leaks yet, so holding thumbs that all is well.
Lastly, more recently this week, whilst on leave, I decided to go visit my mate Donovan at his shop in Meyerton. He has also installed a Mr Turbo dyno, and with things quiet at the shop, we strapped my Ute onto the rollers to see what it pushes out.
These are the results, and please note that this seems to be converting back to flywheel power:
The lower graphs are at 0.7bar on pump fuel only, and the higher graphs are at 1.05bar and with water-meth injection.
Then out of curiosity, and also to put the keyboard warriors at ease, I took some time to go visit Shane at KAR, and put the Ute on his rollers, for what is considered to be one of the “benchmark” dynos in Gauteng. These are the results, and please note that these figures are at the wheels:
Both graphs are the same as before: low boost and no meth, and then high boost with water-meth injection.
Using that handy power converter calculator that can be found on the internet, if I input the figures from KAR, that gives me flywheel figures of 214kW and 433Nm. This is almost in line with the figures from my mate’s dyno.
I also partially did this as an exercise to reinforce the theory that you cannot compare 2 different dynos, on different days etc. In this case, it is a Mr Turbo dyno vs a Hyperpower dyno. The air temperature also differed by about 3 degrees on each day. Never mind all the other factors such as heat soak, warming up of the dyno rollers etc.
To end off, late this afternoon I met up with another mate who also has a 2l 16v sleeper, had some fun for about 30mins and then went our separate ways. But that folks – that is a story for another day…
Thanks for reading, a long update but I hope you enjoyed the read.