BMW 135i 60 ROLL Build (THE MONSTER)

FiRi@Rennzport

Well-known member
Official Advertiser
Sorry to hear Dax. The time and money pumped into it has been immense.

My 2 cents would be, take a step back to breathe and give yourself a moment. Personally, if finances allow, I would source another block and aim at 400wkw to 450wkw which is close 600hp AT THE WHEELS. That power is very easy usable and can be put down nicely on the road is tuned properly. No need to aim at 900 for now unless you build a drag racer that is only meant for drags.



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Dax

Active member
Hi Firi

I hear you, I don't want 900 it is just a comment from the engine builder it the USA,

I want 550 to 580wkw for top end runs,

I believe it is achievable and will be reliable if done correctly and then as a Sunday car run Map 3 (25psi) and have 500kw more than enough.

I can get a block, two available in CPT but need to send them to be checked, going to pull bottom end and check condition of pistons.

I don't like doing things half ass, "Go Big or Go Home" kind of guy.

You know this is our drug, trust me when the car made 500wkw it was epic, madness a joll to say the least but us humans are greedy right.

If a buyer pops up the car will go, if not I will need to fix it, it will just take a lot of time in both senses of the word.

I still want your bumper LOL🤣

I have had several calls but people don't really understand the value of what has been done to the Chassis alone so it will take time to sell as well.

lets see, I have paid a lot of school fess I actually got my Honors degree on BMW N54's 😂😂😂
 

Dax

Active member
Hi,

Just an update,

I have decided to build a new motor, this time I am bringing in a Closed deck block from the USA with a set of Pistons. (yes I know I said I was done and more than likely I will be committed for having rocks in my head but what else can I do?)

I am trying to get a crank but I don't think it will materialize in the time frame I have.

The plan of action is once I receive the block & Pistons (Rings will already be gapped) send to an engineering shop to fit my Crank and Rods then to a friend of mine (Very good BMW mechanic) to build the motor (Oil pump, timing, and head) and then put back in.

The block will also have an head stud upgrade, I already have the studs (ARP custom all 14 studs will be 11mm) stock 4 x 9mm and 10 x 11mm and will be torqued to 115nm.

The closed deck will prevent cylinder walking and allow an achievable 900hp +-670kw if the other mods allow, I think the turbos might battle with this, that said the manufacturer claims 1000hp.

To be honest I will be more than happy with 600kw on E70

I am also fitting a Ethanol sensor/upgraded fuel lines and regulator and the tune will be adaptive to the Eth content.


This is what the Block will be like

Screenshot_20210405-214353_Instagram.jpg
 
Very nice, well im looking forward to checking the prgress bud, all the best.
I need to do turbos on mine when i get the chance, have the Mamba Kit ready to just be rebuilt into my turbos. just a case of time.
 

Trishen94

New member
I'm sitting here bored at work. Started reading this thread and was so excited and wide awake in the beginning . Then I got really sad to read that the motor broke... But now that it's getting a new life I can't wait for the updates.
 

FiRi@Rennzport

Well-known member
Official Advertiser
Hi,

Just an update,

I have decided to build a new motor, this time I am bringing in a Closed deck block from the USA with a set of Pistons. (yes I know I said I was done and more than likely I will be committed for having rocks in my head but what else can I do?)

I am trying to get a crank but I don't think it will materialize in the time frame I have.

The plan of action is once I receive the block & Pistons (Rings will already be gapped) send to an engineering shop to fit my Crank and Rods then to a friend of mine (Very good BMW mechanic) to build the motor (Oil pump, timing, and head) and then put back in.

The block will also have an head stud upgrade, I already have the studs (ARP custom all 14 studs will be 11mm) stock 4 x 9mm and 10 x 11mm and will be torqued to 115nm.

The closed deck will prevent cylinder walking and allow an achievable 900hp +-670kw if the other mods allow, I think the turbos might battle with this, that said the manufacturer claims 1000hp.

To be honest I will be more than happy with 600kw on E70

I am also fitting a Ethanol sensor/upgraded fuel lines and regulator and the tune will be adaptive to the Eth content.


This is what the Block will be like

View attachment 4985
Since seeing you fitting the eth sensors etc, have a look at the thread Charles posted yesterday with regard to the Automatic Flash adjustments according to eth content.

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Dax

Active member
Update on the Build:

I received a reworked closed decked block from the USA.

Company called CSS Cylinder Support Systems.

I want to bring a Short block but unfortunately the cost of Air Freight was crazy $1900 vs $550 for Block with Pistons.

the builder in the USA recommended I use Traum Pistons and Molner Rods

The block has also been prepped for the upgraded ARP head studs (Out four 9mm holes have been drilled and have had inserts put in so that all 14 head studs are now 11mm and the correct length and therefore can all have the same torque settings.

The quality of workmanship is exceptional to say the least, the block is rated at 900whp, when I weighed the pistons the weight difference was from 318.09g to 318.67g before any balancing.


Couple of pics:
20210512_173102_resized.jpg20210512_212910_resized.jpg

20210512_212930_resized.jpg20210512_212930_resized.jpg
 

NuBe93n54

Member
Bro, wen u decided to sell, let me know and if funds allows, I'd rather buy n build to ur spec, gud luck, good roll models keep the bar hight for n54 addicts
 
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Dax

Active member
Howsit Guys

Sorry for not updating for a while,

I received the block in May, then I waited a few weeks for a new crank and once the crank arrived I could only then order bearings and that took another week,

Then that F%$$#@ Covid got hold of me and I was man down.

Eventually we got around to start the engine build and we had another setback, they sent the incorrect Bedplate with Block.:mad:

After back and fourth they sent a sound Block, this time with correct Bedplate:) received 3 weeks ago.

Clearances look good and according to factory spec, I would have liked a bit more clearance but it is what it is.

I am busy making a front splitter, I will have it covered in Carbon to finish off nicely.

A couple of other parts we have added this time around:

  1. Full Flex fuel system (Will have a FF Tune)
  2. Fuel Regulator AEM with return line to tank
  3. Fuelit upgraded fuel line
  4. Bigger Hi side Catch can with two ports
  5. Second oil cooler
  6. CSF Radiator
  7. Mishimoto Race thermostat
  8. New AEM V3 WMI Injector
  9. New Genuine TIAL BOV
  10. Also busy fixing front turbo Hot side boost pipe, It was not sealing correctlyIMG_20210822_180426_724.jpgScreenshot_20210826-173924_Samsung Internet.jpg20210526_160021.jpg20210727_130546.jpg20210907_132709.jpg20210911_102953.jpg20210911_103002.jpgIMG_20210910_171127_084.jpg20200920_081555.jpg20210701_120908.jpg


We are hoping for Fitment this weekend, hold thumps LOL
 

Dax

Active member
Busy with the 11mm ARP Head studs, when the block was Closed Decked I did the ARP 11mm head stud conversion.

The 9mm holes are drilled out and a Timesert is inserted into the block for added strength, the 9mm stock bolts are a weak point when chasing High Boost levels, apparently it can pull the 9mm bolts out the block and most instances of water leakage into cylinders is caused by this and stock blots stretching.

The oem dowels are pain to get inIMG-20210913-WA0010.jpgIMG-20210913-WA0011.jpgIMG-20210913-WA0012.jpgIMG-20210913-WA0013.jpg
 

naja335i

Member
Wow bud awesome build with great dedication and alot of blood sweat and tears plus tons of . Hope the rest of the build goes smooth and you get the power you are aiming for

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