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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
BMW 135i 60 ROLL Build (THE MONSTER)
- Thread starter Dax
- Start date
Darryl1234
New member
thx for the share.Best of luck going forward
Dax
Active member
Howsit guys, small update on the build.
I got some new additions to the build:
RTD Shifter, this thing is amazing, I fitted it to the car and it is amazing (Car not running but motor and gear box is back)
View attachment 1
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View attachment 3
some pics of the motor:
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View attachment 6
I got some new additions to the build:
RTD Shifter, this thing is amazing, I fitted it to the car and it is amazing (Car not running but motor and gear box is back)
View attachment 1
View attachment 2
View attachment 3
some pics of the motor:
View attachment 4
View attachment 5
View attachment 6
Attachments
Dax
Active member
Hi,
I have been slack this last few weeks and got a little disheartened with the build at times.
That said I got it back on track and it seems the time spent in many ways is starting to pay off, but still have a few things to do.
I found a bargain on a E92 M3 complete rear sub frame and LSD and could not pass up the opportunity.
View attachment 1
View attachment 2
View attachment 3
The fitment was straight forward only two problems, Prop shaft had to be shortened and I used the stock 135 Shock carrier plate (This will be changed as soon as the new M3 shocks arrive)
then I import some proper Catch Cans, the BMS ones did not work and I was getting oil in the intake due to too much vacuum.
View attachment 4
I also fitted and Phoenix race intake and a VTT Billet vacuum relief valve, car is strong but still need a little work on the high pressure vent side, I have one way check valves and the motor cannot breath properly after a hard pull and smokes slightly, doing some more work on this to get it right.
last night we ran the car on the dyno (pump file) just to see where we at, I was impressed by the number and I must say even with the LSD and Toyo R888 this thing spins all the way through 3rd gear it is a monster.
View attachment 5
apparently this is a wheel KW Dyno, I will run soon on E70 and see what the car can do.
thanks
I have been slack this last few weeks and got a little disheartened with the build at times.
That said I got it back on track and it seems the time spent in many ways is starting to pay off, but still have a few things to do.
I found a bargain on a E92 M3 complete rear sub frame and LSD and could not pass up the opportunity.
View attachment 1
View attachment 2
View attachment 3
The fitment was straight forward only two problems, Prop shaft had to be shortened and I used the stock 135 Shock carrier plate (This will be changed as soon as the new M3 shocks arrive)
then I import some proper Catch Cans, the BMS ones did not work and I was getting oil in the intake due to too much vacuum.
View attachment 4
I also fitted and Phoenix race intake and a VTT Billet vacuum relief valve, car is strong but still need a little work on the high pressure vent side, I have one way check valves and the motor cannot breath properly after a hard pull and smokes slightly, doing some more work on this to get it right.
last night we ran the car on the dyno (pump file) just to see where we at, I was impressed by the number and I must say even with the LSD and Toyo R888 this thing spins all the way through 3rd gear it is a monster.
View attachment 5
apparently this is a wheel KW Dyno, I will run soon on E70 and see what the car can do.
thanks
Attachments
Dax
Active member
Hi,
update on my 135i Build
it saddens to say the car is dead,
After getting good numbers on pump we changed over to E70 and logging started, it was going well and we got to +- 28psi and then I noticed coolant coming out of water bottle.
I bought new bottle and cap thinking that was the issue unfortunately is was not.
I then started to research and found numerous threads on several forums with similar issues and 90% of them was due to incorrect ARP head studs being used, most sets sold from various venders in the USA are for Chrysler 2.2 (They are 12.5mm too short).
I then thought that was the problem, I ordered a new set (14 studs 11mm) that meant I would need to remove head and drill and tap the 4 outer holes to fit the 11mm bolts.
We removed the head and to my dismay found three cylinders cracked.
Two of the top N54 engine builders in the states told me, You never re-bore/hone a N54 block without close decking if you want High Boost targets.
It is recommended to re-sleeve rather than re-bore
I cannot find a local engineering shop that can re-sleeve and close deck, well one that has done it successfully.
The build has been put on hold for the time being with the following options:
1) Sell rolling Chassis, the add is already on Gumtree (No Engine, gear box, gear lever or anything to do with Motor)
2) Once Chassis is sold break the rest of the motor and sell what I can (Block is scrap and cannot be fixed)
3) Rebuild motor (+- R80K Bring prepped block, closed decked with pistons fitted from US) use all my parts but then car will be capable of 900whp
To be honest I was penny wise and pound foolish, I wanted to sleeve and deck last year but was convinced it was not needed.
This car has had some serious money put into it and right now I don't have more to continue.
The last three and half months have been very bitter and right now I just want the car gone, who knows my mind might change over time.
Thanks for following to all that did.
update on my 135i Build
it saddens to say the car is dead,
After getting good numbers on pump we changed over to E70 and logging started, it was going well and we got to +- 28psi and then I noticed coolant coming out of water bottle.
I bought new bottle and cap thinking that was the issue unfortunately is was not.
I then started to research and found numerous threads on several forums with similar issues and 90% of them was due to incorrect ARP head studs being used, most sets sold from various venders in the USA are for Chrysler 2.2 (They are 12.5mm too short).
I then thought that was the problem, I ordered a new set (14 studs 11mm) that meant I would need to remove head and drill and tap the 4 outer holes to fit the 11mm bolts.
We removed the head and to my dismay found three cylinders cracked.
Two of the top N54 engine builders in the states told me, You never re-bore/hone a N54 block without close decking if you want High Boost targets.
It is recommended to re-sleeve rather than re-bore
I cannot find a local engineering shop that can re-sleeve and close deck, well one that has done it successfully.
The build has been put on hold for the time being with the following options:
1) Sell rolling Chassis, the add is already on Gumtree (No Engine, gear box, gear lever or anything to do with Motor)
2) Once Chassis is sold break the rest of the motor and sell what I can (Block is scrap and cannot be fixed)
3) Rebuild motor (+- R80K Bring prepped block, closed decked with pistons fitted from US) use all my parts but then car will be capable of 900whp
To be honest I was penny wise and pound foolish, I wanted to sleeve and deck last year but was convinced it was not needed.
This car has had some serious money put into it and right now I don't have more to continue.
The last three and half months have been very bitter and right now I just want the car gone, who knows my mind might change over time.
Thanks for following to all that did.
So sorry to hear bud, looking at the parts and the attention to detail you put into this build, i am sure no one thought it would end this way. Dont give up, maybe consider going one step back and dialing back the horsepower to a more sustainable figure? In theory 900whp sounds terrific, but how often are you realistically going to get to use all that power? Sad day non the less and I wish you all the best
This is heartbreaking to read - Sorry Dax
This was such an epic build and I know how excited you were about it when you sold me the 330d. This car was still the most insane thing I've experienced, everything about it was goals 😭 I admired the time and effort you put into this build and I hope that things will turn out for the better.
