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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
Project E46 330i Touring
- Thread starter evnmopwr
- Start date
A.C.SCHNITZER
Member
:clapper: Impressed 
raise: nice work
raise: nice work
evnmopwr
Well-known member
hi guys
Quick update..
Was out of town for a while so did not get much done
upon returning, Battery light would come on and off... Checked the charge with load using the hidden test feature on cluster and it was reading 11.9V with lights, radio etc etc on..
Was afraid when i found out its a Valeo Alternator i had thinking the Regulator was Soldered in place.
Turns out the Valeo i had could have the Regulator replaced
Valeo alternator P/N SG12B026
After much hunting, speaking to LOTS of stores who all told me, "We never in history ever stocked this part" ...
Ziyaad at AutoMagneto arranged me a New Regulator.. took a day for the most for him to get it.
MobileTron Regulator P/N reg0025
VR-PR2206
Costed only R285 rand.
I did not remove the Alternator during the replacement and did not get pictures of the process as i was rushing to complete as i needed to help the SO with my Kid.
Simply Disconnected the Negative terminal on battery
Removed the airbox ( 10mm Socket used for 2 bolts PLUS screw driver for MAF Clamp )
Removed the power line to alternator ( 17mm Socket used if i remember correctly )
Disconnected the Duct to alternator
removed the Plastic Cover ( 7mm Small tube socket needed 2xbolts )
Removed the Regulator ( 7mm Small tube socket needed 3xbolts )
Old Regulator
New Vs Old
When installing the new Regulator, it has a Black Round section (as seen in image)
The New Regulator comes with 2, the one on is actually holding the Brushes back
DO NOT REMOVE IT...
Install the regulator as is and tighten the bolts.
Once its in place, pull the Round black cover off and the Brushes pop out and make contact to the Alternator shaft
Now you use the second black cover to Slide over again
This image Shows the First Cap that is on the Regulator
the arrow points to the Brushes being pushed back by this cap
The second cap has the Circled section open so just a cover
Correct and Steady 14.2V
Funny enough, my car actually idles million times better and it has not Picked up the Misfire i was fighting to resolve ever since...:smilebounce:
This weekend is DENT REMOVAL weekend
Will lay on some Primer to the sections with dents i remove.
My timeline will be stretched out abit. Due to My other project Needing to be completed, 1975 VW passat LS Coupe, they will be sharing time ...
Thanks for looking guys
Quick update..
Was out of town for a while so did not get much done
upon returning, Battery light would come on and off... Checked the charge with load using the hidden test feature on cluster and it was reading 11.9V with lights, radio etc etc on..
Was afraid when i found out its a Valeo Alternator i had thinking the Regulator was Soldered in place.
Turns out the Valeo i had could have the Regulator replaced
Valeo alternator P/N SG12B026
After much hunting, speaking to LOTS of stores who all told me, "We never in history ever stocked this part" ...
Ziyaad at AutoMagneto arranged me a New Regulator.. took a day for the most for him to get it.
MobileTron Regulator P/N reg0025
VR-PR2206
Costed only R285 rand.
I did not remove the Alternator during the replacement and did not get pictures of the process as i was rushing to complete as i needed to help the SO with my Kid.
Simply Disconnected the Negative terminal on battery
Removed the airbox ( 10mm Socket used for 2 bolts PLUS screw driver for MAF Clamp )
Removed the power line to alternator ( 17mm Socket used if i remember correctly )
Disconnected the Duct to alternator
removed the Plastic Cover ( 7mm Small tube socket needed 2xbolts )
Removed the Regulator ( 7mm Small tube socket needed 3xbolts )
Old Regulator
New Vs Old
When installing the new Regulator, it has a Black Round section (as seen in image)
The New Regulator comes with 2, the one on is actually holding the Brushes back
DO NOT REMOVE IT...
Install the regulator as is and tighten the bolts.
Once its in place, pull the Round black cover off and the Brushes pop out and make contact to the Alternator shaft
Now you use the second black cover to Slide over again
This image Shows the First Cap that is on the Regulator
the arrow points to the Brushes being pushed back by this cap
The second cap has the Circled section open so just a cover
Correct and Steady 14.2V
Funny enough, my car actually idles million times better and it has not Picked up the Misfire i was fighting to resolve ever since...:smilebounce:
This weekend is DENT REMOVAL weekend
Will lay on some Primer to the sections with dents i remove.
My timeline will be stretched out abit. Due to My other project Needing to be completed, 1975 VW passat LS Coupe, they will be sharing time ...
Thanks for looking guys
evnmopwr
Well-known member
Tinuva said:
Thats exactly it...
My issue was, At times with engine hot or cold, the Idle would sit at about 550rpm
if you left it for a about 1min, the car stumbles and everytime, Cyl4 shutsdown and the car misfires
i swopped Plugs, Coils, MAF's, Cleaned ICV, Replaced Intake boots, cleaned throttle body, Replaced CCV + 4Vac hoses, replaced Valve cover gasket, Brake booster, etc etc etc
I could not get that Symptom gone... At times when the car is at operational temp, the revs will steady off at +-700-750 rpm but she would PING and be lazy on acceleration.
Disconnecting the MAF would resolve the Power issue and the idle, whether its at 550 or 750rpm, it would not misfire at all... But would still ping
So thinking its a Vac leak, i smoke tested the system and found smoke running out of the tube that runs from Fuel filter to intake boot. so i replaced that. and the Smoke test brought out no more leaks...
BUT the symptoms remained...
now after replacing this part, the car idles like 100% smoother, throttle response is much better and the First time ever that i was able to drive and idle this car with the MAF connected and it would not pick up the misfire...
Im doing fuel pressure test and compression test this evening. Also going to plug machine in to read live data
NOTE: THE CAR DOES NOT PING WHEN ENGINE IS COLD... Only at Operating Temp
Engine temp on machine was perfect
So i was surprised that the car drives so much better after this item was replaced.
no clue why it feels that way
Technician
Well-known member
raise: well done
evnmopwr
Well-known member
As mentioned, I decided that March 2018, im going to replace the high Km Tired 325i engine With just another M54B25 engine..
Last month While looking for an Mtech 1 front bumper and skirts, i got the opportunity to purchase a complete 2005 330i motorsport. after viewing the car and negotiation, And help from Straight six on this forum, i paid the sale price which could not be refused.
she is home
I was planning on repairing her as the damage did not look too bad
This past weekend i got into Tearing her Down and noticed there was too much Other damage to actually be able to salvage.
Pulled the Motor, Box and Exhaust. took about 1hr30min
Start them young i always say.. lol
3 of the Wheels was damaged so i replaced 2 of them with the Spare and 1 Wheel from my wagon but had to roll the car with 1 buckled wheel at the rear
struggled at 1 point to push the car cause i stopped it from rolling to see if i cleared the Walls so i started her up and Engaged into reverse.
THE CAR DID NOT MOVE!!!!
It engaged all the gears but the car just would not move at all..
This would be the reason ( I THINK ??) ... Shaft broken off
not going to take any chances so still removing the gearbox to check the Flywheel/Clutch etc etc...
Cause even when pulling the clutch out Fast and changing gears without using clutch, nothing happens. Car does not stall, gears to do not grind etc etc
BUT if i select a Gear now that the Gearbox is out and try to Spin the Coupling, Its engaged into Gear fine and Functional...
This could be the reason????
This Linkage has seen a repair before and was welded up
1 Ear broke off
More to Follow as week progresses...
Carry on working on her after work for this week
If all goes according to plan, Im pulling the Wagons engine and Box out the Saturday and will do the 330i install and finish it off on Sunday with the Computerbox, ews etc etc etc
Stay tuned
Last month While looking for an Mtech 1 front bumper and skirts, i got the opportunity to purchase a complete 2005 330i motorsport. after viewing the car and negotiation, And help from Straight six on this forum, i paid the sale price which could not be refused.
she is home
I was planning on repairing her as the damage did not look too bad
This past weekend i got into Tearing her Down and noticed there was too much Other damage to actually be able to salvage.
Pulled the Motor, Box and Exhaust. took about 1hr30min
Start them young i always say.. lol
3 of the Wheels was damaged so i replaced 2 of them with the Spare and 1 Wheel from my wagon but had to roll the car with 1 buckled wheel at the rear
struggled at 1 point to push the car cause i stopped it from rolling to see if i cleared the Walls so i started her up and Engaged into reverse.
THE CAR DID NOT MOVE!!!!
It engaged all the gears but the car just would not move at all..
This would be the reason ( I THINK ??) ... Shaft broken off
not going to take any chances so still removing the gearbox to check the Flywheel/Clutch etc etc...
Cause even when pulling the clutch out Fast and changing gears without using clutch, nothing happens. Car does not stall, gears to do not grind etc etc
BUT if i select a Gear now that the Gearbox is out and try to Spin the Coupling, Its engaged into Gear fine and Functional...
This could be the reason????
This Linkage has seen a repair before and was welded up
1 Ear broke off
More to Follow as week progresses...
Carry on working on her after work for this week
If all goes according to plan, Im pulling the Wagons engine and Box out the Saturday and will do the 330i install and finish it off on Sunday with the Computerbox, ews etc etc etc
Stay tuned
evnmopwr
Well-known member
A quick update.
Work has been hectic so did not have the time to start pulling the 325i enging out. :fencelook:
Since i worked right through, Im now just waiting for Guys and gals in my team to return to office.
Booked the 5th of Feb till 9th of Feb off to complete it
NEW plan. LOL
3rd Feb - Pull the motor from the wagon
4th feb - Install the 330i + 6speed box
5th to the 9th - Connect all wiring, Fit exhaust, Springs etc and have time to spare
to start her up and resolve any issues that may come up.
Doing some PM too
* New water pump
* New belts
* New CCV + hoses
* New smaller Vac hoses
The rest isnt broken so wont be scratching
:thumbs:
Something interesting i found out
the 135i Uses the E46 330i Block with 135i head and turbo....
Interesting............:fencelook:
Who has a 135i topend they want to sell?
Work has been hectic so did not have the time to start pulling the 325i enging out. :fencelook:
Since i worked right through, Im now just waiting for Guys and gals in my team to return to office.
Booked the 5th of Feb till 9th of Feb off to complete it
NEW plan. LOL
3rd Feb - Pull the motor from the wagon
4th feb - Install the 330i + 6speed box
5th to the 9th - Connect all wiring, Fit exhaust, Springs etc and have time to spare
to start her up and resolve any issues that may come up.
Doing some PM too
* New water pump
* New belts
* New CCV + hoses
* New smaller Vac hoses
The rest isnt broken so wont be scratching
:thumbs:
Something interesting i found out
the 135i Uses the E46 330i Block with 135i head and turbo....
Interesting............:fencelook:
Who has a 135i topend they want to sell?
evnmopwr
Well-known member
@Gizmo
So im busy preparing for my swop this weekend and was laying out all the 330i components so that im missing nothing
One thing i noticed was that it had a Vacuum Reservoir for the exhaust flap.
The 330i parts car had an aftermarket exhaust on so i dont see the use of this thing anymore??? can i just blank off the ports behind the intake like on my 325i??
So im busy preparing for my swop this weekend and was laying out all the 330i components so that im missing nothing
One thing i noticed was that it had a Vacuum Reservoir for the exhaust flap.
The 330i parts car had an aftermarket exhaust on so i dont see the use of this thing anymore??? can i just blank off the ports behind the intake like on my 325i??
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