-
Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
Corsa C Ute - Another Toy Story
- Thread starter gavsadler
- Start date
gavsadler
///Member
Happy 2015 to everyone.
So, over December, some good news – the parcel which I ordered in August, had now been found at the International Mail Centre at the airport. So I made arrangements to go and collect. This is what I got:
A pair of custom made 308mm 4-stud front brake discs.
Here is a comparison to the 308mm 5-stud discs which I have (as found on the Coupe and Corsa OPC):
This is a close up of the spigot rings - which reduce the hub diameter from 70mm to 60mm:
And here is a picture of a mock-up fitment on a spare hub which I have:
Having done a whole bunch of research, I also decided to rather 1) wait a while, and 2) do things properly the first time. This is why I waited so long to continue with this upgrade (you'll remember I collected the blue OPC calipers around a year ago, and then also fitted them a few months back, whilst still using my existing brake disc setup).
Based on the above, I decided to send the discs to be slotted and heat-treated. The slotting assists with removal of gasses which get generated between the pad and the disc when braking, as well as keeping the pad surface clean (contrary to popular belief, the slots do not act like a cheese grater on the pads). The heat treatment helps the discs in normalizing the bonds between the molecules, which will help against cracking, and at the same time it hardens the disc. Apparently the service life of the disc is also doubled (in that case it means these discs should last me a loooooooong time). I've seen discs which came off a Le Mans replica racing car, which were in use for nearly 2 seasons, barely a ridge on the discs.
The work was carried out by Rinaldo at Big Brakes Direct (a.k.a Vari Racing). Top notch service and a super friendly and helpful chap.
Here's some pics of the discs after slotting and heat treatment:
Having sorted out the discs, again I decided to get new pads to bed in with the new discs, whilst at the same time looking to get the best possible braking setup which can be used both on the street, and also be able to cope with the odd track day in future. Rinaldo also organized me a set of EBC Yellow Stuff Pads:
Here is a comparison of the Yellow Stuff pads lined up with the OEM ATE pads, you will notice there is slightly more pad surface area which will be clamping down on the disc:
Continued in the next post......
Following on from the previous post, below are some pics of the new discs compared to previous brake setups fitted to my Ute:
This picture shows the new 308mm disc next to the preceding 280mm disc:
From left to right - 260mm, 280mm and 308mm discs:
280mm disc on the left, 308mm disc in the middle, and the 260mm disc on the right:
Moving on to the caliper carriers, this pic best shows how the blue OPC carrier is wider - as such it will space the caliper further away from the hub center (in order to accommodate the bigger discs):
And now.... the science, lol.
In keeping with my previous posts, I was keen to see the various differences which came as part of this upgrade.
Caliper carriers:
Previous setup (silver carriers for 280mm discs) - 1.4kg each
New setup (blue carriers for 308mm discs) - 1.7kg each
So I have a 300g (21%) weight penalty at each corner just for the caliper carriers.
Discs:
Previous setup (280mm discs) - 5.5kg each
New setup (308mm discs) - 7.9kg each
So I have a 2.4kg (44%) weight penalty at each corner just for the discs. That is a fairly hefty increase.
BUT - through lots of measuring and calculations, on the 308mm discs, the actual disc surface area where the pad comes into contact is 11% more than on the 280mm discs. This, coupled with the slotting, heat treatment, and overall greater surface area means the disc should run cooler - which should allow for better and more consistent stopping power.
Delving deeper into the science and engineering aspects, because the weight of the disc is pushed further out, it will require more torque to turn, so yes, my Ute is now slower haha.
Anyway, enough about the numbers, let me show you the final product.
Here's the driver's side fitted:
And lastly, some pics of the completed product behind the rims:
As part of the bedding-in process, it's advisable to drive respectably for the first few hundred kms. I did a couple of trips to work and back just before we closed for the festive season, and since then I haven't done much driving. So now that I'm back at work the kms should rack up again fairly quickly.
Initial impressions are good though. I haven't experienced any squealing, and the bite does seem good from cold. Also no real noise to speak of (from the slotting). I've only done mild to moderate braking, and it definitely makes your brain and stomach feel all weird as the G-forces begin to load up.
That's it for now, I will post updates in due course as I try to leave 11's on the road - only going from 100-0 and not 0-100 haha!
So, over December, some good news – the parcel which I ordered in August, had now been found at the International Mail Centre at the airport. So I made arrangements to go and collect. This is what I got:
A pair of custom made 308mm 4-stud front brake discs.
Here is a comparison to the 308mm 5-stud discs which I have (as found on the Coupe and Corsa OPC):
This is a close up of the spigot rings - which reduce the hub diameter from 70mm to 60mm:
And here is a picture of a mock-up fitment on a spare hub which I have:
Having done a whole bunch of research, I also decided to rather 1) wait a while, and 2) do things properly the first time. This is why I waited so long to continue with this upgrade (you'll remember I collected the blue OPC calipers around a year ago, and then also fitted them a few months back, whilst still using my existing brake disc setup).
Based on the above, I decided to send the discs to be slotted and heat-treated. The slotting assists with removal of gasses which get generated between the pad and the disc when braking, as well as keeping the pad surface clean (contrary to popular belief, the slots do not act like a cheese grater on the pads). The heat treatment helps the discs in normalizing the bonds between the molecules, which will help against cracking, and at the same time it hardens the disc. Apparently the service life of the disc is also doubled (in that case it means these discs should last me a loooooooong time). I've seen discs which came off a Le Mans replica racing car, which were in use for nearly 2 seasons, barely a ridge on the discs.
The work was carried out by Rinaldo at Big Brakes Direct (a.k.a Vari Racing). Top notch service and a super friendly and helpful chap.
Here's some pics of the discs after slotting and heat treatment:
Having sorted out the discs, again I decided to get new pads to bed in with the new discs, whilst at the same time looking to get the best possible braking setup which can be used both on the street, and also be able to cope with the odd track day in future. Rinaldo also organized me a set of EBC Yellow Stuff Pads:
Here is a comparison of the Yellow Stuff pads lined up with the OEM ATE pads, you will notice there is slightly more pad surface area which will be clamping down on the disc:
Continued in the next post......
Following on from the previous post, below are some pics of the new discs compared to previous brake setups fitted to my Ute:
This picture shows the new 308mm disc next to the preceding 280mm disc:
From left to right - 260mm, 280mm and 308mm discs:
280mm disc on the left, 308mm disc in the middle, and the 260mm disc on the right:
Moving on to the caliper carriers, this pic best shows how the blue OPC carrier is wider - as such it will space the caliper further away from the hub center (in order to accommodate the bigger discs):
And now.... the science, lol.
In keeping with my previous posts, I was keen to see the various differences which came as part of this upgrade.
Caliper carriers:
Previous setup (silver carriers for 280mm discs) - 1.4kg each
New setup (blue carriers for 308mm discs) - 1.7kg each
So I have a 300g (21%) weight penalty at each corner just for the caliper carriers.
Discs:
Previous setup (280mm discs) - 5.5kg each
New setup (308mm discs) - 7.9kg each
So I have a 2.4kg (44%) weight penalty at each corner just for the discs. That is a fairly hefty increase.
BUT - through lots of measuring and calculations, on the 308mm discs, the actual disc surface area where the pad comes into contact is 11% more than on the 280mm discs. This, coupled with the slotting, heat treatment, and overall greater surface area means the disc should run cooler - which should allow for better and more consistent stopping power.
Delving deeper into the science and engineering aspects, because the weight of the disc is pushed further out, it will require more torque to turn, so yes, my Ute is now slower haha.
Anyway, enough about the numbers, let me show you the final product.
Here's the driver's side fitted:
And lastly, some pics of the completed product behind the rims:
As part of the bedding-in process, it's advisable to drive respectably for the first few hundred kms. I did a couple of trips to work and back just before we closed for the festive season, and since then I haven't done much driving. So now that I'm back at work the kms should rack up again fairly quickly.
Initial impressions are good though. I haven't experienced any squealing, and the bite does seem good from cold. Also no real noise to speak of (from the slotting). I've only done mild to moderate braking, and it definitely makes your brain and stomach feel all weird as the G-forces begin to load up.
That's it for now, I will post updates in due course as I try to leave 11's on the road - only going from 100-0 and not 0-100 haha!
gavsadler
///Member
March-2015 update:
So having been working in Botswana the past 5 weeks means I have had little time to do anything at home, never mind anything car related.
What has been a bit of a niggle for the past few months is a leaking water bottle. I initially thought it was the cap (which is only a few months old), but I then discovered that there is a crack around the neck of the bottle. I had a go at trying to fix this with some epoxy, but that didn't hold for too long. A couple of weeks back it started hissing again.
Here is a pic, showing my epoxy fix, and you can see the hairline crack through the epoxy:
Ended up buying a new OEM water bottle at GM as I was there and it was almost the same price as Goldwagen. Here is a pic of old vs. new:
And here's a pic of the new bottle fitted, ready to rock n roll:
Then moving on to another job that is well overdue, was replacement of my coil pack plug. It had begun to corrode and disintegrate a while back, but managed to sort it out with some quick fixes (which ended up being a much more effective fix than I anticipated). Now and then the terminals would not make decent contact with the pins - resulting a bit of a lumpy idle and only 3 cylinders in operation for a couple of seconds.
This proved to be a frustrating job, first I ran out of solder, then after organizing some, when I tried again my soldering iron packed up. Eventually after getting some new garage equipment, I got the job done.
This is my old plug, seen better days:
This is the new plug, courtesy of my mate in the UK. You'll also notice it has the rubber seal around the pins which my original plug never had:
So after some crafty soldering and heat shrink it looked like so:
Then tied up everything nicely again:
I also asked my mate to send over a couple of other items, one of which was this:
And fitted it to finish off the engine bay nicely:
That is all for now, I've got a few other things lined up for the next few months, let's see if time and work commitments allow for it to get done.
Thanks for reading...
So having been working in Botswana the past 5 weeks means I have had little time to do anything at home, never mind anything car related.
What has been a bit of a niggle for the past few months is a leaking water bottle. I initially thought it was the cap (which is only a few months old), but I then discovered that there is a crack around the neck of the bottle. I had a go at trying to fix this with some epoxy, but that didn't hold for too long. A couple of weeks back it started hissing again.
Here is a pic, showing my epoxy fix, and you can see the hairline crack through the epoxy:
Ended up buying a new OEM water bottle at GM as I was there and it was almost the same price as Goldwagen. Here is a pic of old vs. new:
And here's a pic of the new bottle fitted, ready to rock n roll:
Then moving on to another job that is well overdue, was replacement of my coil pack plug. It had begun to corrode and disintegrate a while back, but managed to sort it out with some quick fixes (which ended up being a much more effective fix than I anticipated). Now and then the terminals would not make decent contact with the pins - resulting a bit of a lumpy idle and only 3 cylinders in operation for a couple of seconds.
This proved to be a frustrating job, first I ran out of solder, then after organizing some, when I tried again my soldering iron packed up. Eventually after getting some new garage equipment, I got the job done.
This is my old plug, seen better days:
This is the new plug, courtesy of my mate in the UK. You'll also notice it has the rubber seal around the pins which my original plug never had:
So after some crafty soldering and heat shrink it looked like so:
Then tied up everything nicely again:
I also asked my mate to send over a couple of other items, one of which was this:
And fitted it to finish off the engine bay nicely:
That is all for now, I've got a few other things lined up for the next few months, let's see if time and work commitments allow for it to get done.
Thanks for reading...
gavsadler
///Member
Time for an April holidays update.
Over the past few weeks, I've been doing various bits of logging on the Ute, to monitor my boost and injector duty cycle. Using highly advanced techniques of video capture using an iPhone, first stop was to see what my boost gauge is reading.
So after a couple of pulls, in different gears, my boost gauge says it's boosting around 0.65bar, settling down to 0.6bar. It never went over 0.7bar.
I then hooked up my laptop to the Spitronics to see what values the ECU was registering. Performing the same types of tests, this also showed readings anywhere between 0.50-0.55bar.
Note that these tests were done on different days, so it is possible that atmospheric conditions and different temperatures could have an impact on the readings. Also, the last time it was tuned, it was mapped to 0.7bar.
Anyway, having performed lots of logging, I was ready to proceed with the next step in my build. Since the last tune, the Ute has run faultlessly, on more-or-less stock boost settings. Power figures are relatively limited due to 1) insisting on reliability as a daily driver, 2) heat, 3) fuel limitations and some other factors. In order to extract more out the motor (whilst still keeping things reliable), I would need to do something about addressing these factors.
So, after 18months of umm-ing and ahh-ing, I began the search and managed to pick-up one of these goodies:
GFB G-Force II Electronic Boost Controller:
Reasons I went for this particular electronic boost controller:
> Well-priced,
> 6 Boost presets, and an additional scramble boost setting,
> External input which can be configured to activate the scramble boost setting (e.g. limp mode)
> 3-port solenoid, which controls boost more effectively than older solenoid types
> Small and compact
> Easy to use
This sat on the shelf for a few weeks, until I had some time to get it fitted. First up I ran the wiring harness for the solenoid through the firewall (in close proximity to my other wiring from previous mods). Then I decided to mount the solenoid under the slam tray, more or less just above the turbo. This keeps the solenoid mostly away from extreme heat, as well as in an area that is well ventilated and has good airflow. I had to make up a little bracket used to secure the solenoid to the slam tray.
Here is a picture of the solenoid attached to the bracket. The ports you see are for the boost source from the turbo, as well as the line going from the boost controller to the wastegate actuator:
Here is a pic of the 3rd port - this is where boost will be bled off, thus "fooling" the actuator to think that the target boost pressure has not been met yet (gate pressure set to around 0.7bar), and in-so-doing keeps the wastegate closed = more boost:
At the same time, I removed the OEM solenoid off the VXR turbo. The stock solenoid vents back into the turbo inlet. Currently the new one just vents under the bonnet, at some stage I will get a fitting I need so that the new solenoid can also vent back into the turbo inlet.
Here's 2 pics of the solenoid mounted:
Then, moving to the inside, part of my intentions were to still keep the driveability of the Ute. As mentioned, the wastegate actuator's manual gated pressure is set to 0.7bar or thereabouts. One of the nice things about these solenoids, is that if they have no power, they default to open, and as such, the manual gated pressure will take effect. So I fitted a couple of arm switches to my centre console, one is for the electronic boost controller, the other is for something else still to come
I think they look pretty good where they sit, and actually almost look OEM, so I'm happy with the way they turned out.
The controller I will mount in my sandwich holder, at the moment I have just secured it there temporarily, once I get time I will make a proper flushed mounting plate and secure it properly. It will then also be more recessed and less O-vi-aaaaas.
I'll post some vids in the next post.
Following on from the previous posts, here are some vids of the boost controller in action.
When powering up the controller:
Power-up G-Force II
3rd gear pull, from around 2000rpm to 6000rpm. You will note it shows the peak boost attained for 3 seconds after the pull and returning to vacuum. In this case, peak boost attained on this pull was 0.79bar. (just after 6:30am, still nice and cold and on the highway, so there was good air flow to keep things cool):
3rd Gear Pull
Another nifty feature of this controller is you can set the maximum boost pressure threshold. If this limit is reached, the controller flashes a few times, and shows the boost threshold. At the same time, the solenoid will open up, reverting to the gated boost pressure of the actuator. For this example, I set it to 0.59bar:
Overboost protection
I haven't had time to fiddle with any of the other features yet, but will get round to that in the coming weeks, as time avails itself.
That's all for now....
Over the past few weeks, I've been doing various bits of logging on the Ute, to monitor my boost and injector duty cycle. Using highly advanced techniques of video capture using an iPhone, first stop was to see what my boost gauge is reading.
So after a couple of pulls, in different gears, my boost gauge says it's boosting around 0.65bar, settling down to 0.6bar. It never went over 0.7bar.
I then hooked up my laptop to the Spitronics to see what values the ECU was registering. Performing the same types of tests, this also showed readings anywhere between 0.50-0.55bar.
Note that these tests were done on different days, so it is possible that atmospheric conditions and different temperatures could have an impact on the readings. Also, the last time it was tuned, it was mapped to 0.7bar.
Anyway, having performed lots of logging, I was ready to proceed with the next step in my build. Since the last tune, the Ute has run faultlessly, on more-or-less stock boost settings. Power figures are relatively limited due to 1) insisting on reliability as a daily driver, 2) heat, 3) fuel limitations and some other factors. In order to extract more out the motor (whilst still keeping things reliable), I would need to do something about addressing these factors.
So, after 18months of umm-ing and ahh-ing, I began the search and managed to pick-up one of these goodies:
GFB G-Force II Electronic Boost Controller:
Reasons I went for this particular electronic boost controller:
> Well-priced,
> 6 Boost presets, and an additional scramble boost setting,
> External input which can be configured to activate the scramble boost setting (e.g. limp mode)
> 3-port solenoid, which controls boost more effectively than older solenoid types
> Small and compact
> Easy to use
This sat on the shelf for a few weeks, until I had some time to get it fitted. First up I ran the wiring harness for the solenoid through the firewall (in close proximity to my other wiring from previous mods). Then I decided to mount the solenoid under the slam tray, more or less just above the turbo. This keeps the solenoid mostly away from extreme heat, as well as in an area that is well ventilated and has good airflow. I had to make up a little bracket used to secure the solenoid to the slam tray.
Here is a picture of the solenoid attached to the bracket. The ports you see are for the boost source from the turbo, as well as the line going from the boost controller to the wastegate actuator:
Here is a pic of the 3rd port - this is where boost will be bled off, thus "fooling" the actuator to think that the target boost pressure has not been met yet (gate pressure set to around 0.7bar), and in-so-doing keeps the wastegate closed = more boost:
At the same time, I removed the OEM solenoid off the VXR turbo. The stock solenoid vents back into the turbo inlet. Currently the new one just vents under the bonnet, at some stage I will get a fitting I need so that the new solenoid can also vent back into the turbo inlet.
Here's 2 pics of the solenoid mounted:
Then, moving to the inside, part of my intentions were to still keep the driveability of the Ute. As mentioned, the wastegate actuator's manual gated pressure is set to 0.7bar or thereabouts. One of the nice things about these solenoids, is that if they have no power, they default to open, and as such, the manual gated pressure will take effect. So I fitted a couple of arm switches to my centre console, one is for the electronic boost controller, the other is for something else still to come
I think they look pretty good where they sit, and actually almost look OEM, so I'm happy with the way they turned out.
The controller I will mount in my sandwich holder, at the moment I have just secured it there temporarily, once I get time I will make a proper flushed mounting plate and secure it properly. It will then also be more recessed and less O-vi-aaaaas.
I'll post some vids in the next post.
Following on from the previous posts, here are some vids of the boost controller in action.
When powering up the controller:
Power-up G-Force II
3rd gear pull, from around 2000rpm to 6000rpm. You will note it shows the peak boost attained for 3 seconds after the pull and returning to vacuum. In this case, peak boost attained on this pull was 0.79bar. (just after 6:30am, still nice and cold and on the highway, so there was good air flow to keep things cool):
3rd Gear Pull
Another nifty feature of this controller is you can set the maximum boost pressure threshold. If this limit is reached, the controller flashes a few times, and shows the boost threshold. At the same time, the solenoid will open up, reverting to the gated boost pressure of the actuator. For this example, I set it to 0.59bar:
Overboost protection
I haven't had time to fiddle with any of the other features yet, but will get round to that in the coming weeks, as time avails itself.
That's all for now....
gavsadler
///Member
May-15 update:
So along with the boost controller install, the next piece of the puzzle had to be slotted into place. Been shopping / procrastinating on this for a long time now. The topic of much research and debate: Water/Meth injection.
Having done a lot of research, and having an idea of what I wanted to do, I eventually settled on the AEM V2 kit. This is a fully progressive kit, and came with a bottle, controller, piping and wiring. I also purchased the inline meth filter as well, as well as a pump cover. The reasons I decided on this kit:
> plumbing already done on the bottle for the feed, as well as the level sensor,
> conductive fluid level sensor: apparently better than the traditional float-type level sensor,
> progressive controller: with functionality to test the system, as well as showing error codes (using LED flashes),
> external LED which can be mounted in driver's field of vision,
> boost safe output: can be used if fluid is low, or there is a fault detected. (I wanted to wire this up to the boost controller - to essentially activate limp mode / low boost).
> decently priced,
> strong reputation especially in the states, but a few local cars also using these kits.
On to the install. Referring to my earlier posts, the 2nd switch in front of the gear lever would be used to arm the meth kit. I decided to mount the tank and pump on the side of the load bin, out of harms way, and where it is currently mounted, it is fairly protected from water thanks to the Armadillo.
Here's a pic of the install:
Subsequent to this, I installed the pump cover, which is essentially a silicone sleeve / sock which fits over the pump. For the meth line, I ran this under the Ute, and then up into the engine bay. I also didn't want the meth line to be too exposed to the elements and possible damage, so after some scratching at my parents house, I found a roll of braided fuel hose which my dad had from years ago. Luckily the meth line was able to fit through this nice and snug, with some mild persuasion. So very happy about this - just another layer of protection.
Here's a pic of the aforementioned fuel hose. I decided to paint the braiding black - just for that extra bit of stealth install:
Next up was to sort out the plumbing for the nozzle. My stainless boost pipes meant that it would possibly be problematic to braze a bung onto the boost pipe, so I tapped a hole for the nozzle to fit in, and it seals with a dowty washer (great little thing this). Here is a pic of the nozzle installed into the fitting which houses the integrated check valve, and the dowty washer:
My plumbing efforts - going well:
I installed the nozzle at the back of the boost pipe, so you don't really notice it unless you look for it:
View inside of how the nozzle sits:
Next up was to finish up all the wiring and get testing with the system. This took quite a bit of time to get done. I also wired in a 5-pin relay - for the boost safe output and to send a ground signal to the boost controller.
Here's a short video of the controller powering up. Strong green LED, and then a steady faded green which means all is operating as it should (If there are faults, it will be a red flash in various sequences). You'll also note the Test button, this can be used to prime the system before use. It varies the voltage to the pump to full power over 3 seconds, then holds it at full power for a further 3 seconds.
AEM controller power-up
And here's a video of the nozzle in action (using the test button):
Meth nozzle testing
In part 2: testing and tuning......
Reserved, battery going to die (thanks load shedding....)
Part 2 (Water/Meth injection install) – testing and tuning.
So having completed all the installation, time to test. I set the controller to come on around 9psi, and the max around 12psi (remember only boosting 0.7bar now). I had a couple of glitches, where once the meth kit started injecting, after about 3 seconds, it would cut out. This in turn triggered boost safe which sent signal to the boost controller as expected. I’m not sure why the controller was cutting out, as it only happened a couple of times – not consistently. I’ll need to try to some more investigation and research into this in time…..
Next up, tuning time with Ross @ RBTS Racing. Went through early on a Monday morning, and after setting the Ute up on the dyno, he proceeded to work his magic. After a while he popped out the dyno room and told me the meth controller is cutting out (as it did with me during testing). He thinks it’s something to do with the boost safe output, so we disconnected that, and then he had no problems after that.
30mins later he was finished and ready to go for a test drive. When he got back, Bern asked for comments to put on the job card. His response: “It now brakes traction in 2nd gear, otherwise great to drive”.
So we all had a good laugh about that. He is happy with the outcome, there are no worrying noises of detonation etc, and it’s very driveable. He’s set it to around 1bar boost (give or take a few decimals depending on atmospheric conditions).
These are the results:
Leaving RBTS, I gave it a few squirts down Pomona and on the highway – much much stronger. You’ll see from the graphs that the powerband is the same, just bigger curves. It feels great on the road, smooth with no funky peaks and troughs. The mid-range is awesome! Just what I wanted for a daily driver.
I’ve really been enjoying the Ute the past 2 weeks since the tune. I haven’t used the new found power each day, but when I have, it’s been all smiles.
A quick video of a 2nd gear pull:
2nd gear pull
And here’s a video of 60-120km/h in 3rd.
60-120 (3rd)
You’ll also notice the LED I mounted in my cluster, so everything still looks (relatively) OEM inside the Ute. I used a blank with the following icon:
According to the owner’s manual, this is for “Corsa Traction Control Warning Light”. In my case, if I see this light, it means a lack of traction is about to ensue, hahaha.
Until next time.....
So along with the boost controller install, the next piece of the puzzle had to be slotted into place. Been shopping / procrastinating on this for a long time now. The topic of much research and debate: Water/Meth injection.
Having done a lot of research, and having an idea of what I wanted to do, I eventually settled on the AEM V2 kit. This is a fully progressive kit, and came with a bottle, controller, piping and wiring. I also purchased the inline meth filter as well, as well as a pump cover. The reasons I decided on this kit:
> plumbing already done on the bottle for the feed, as well as the level sensor,
> conductive fluid level sensor: apparently better than the traditional float-type level sensor,
> progressive controller: with functionality to test the system, as well as showing error codes (using LED flashes),
> external LED which can be mounted in driver's field of vision,
> boost safe output: can be used if fluid is low, or there is a fault detected. (I wanted to wire this up to the boost controller - to essentially activate limp mode / low boost).
> decently priced,
> strong reputation especially in the states, but a few local cars also using these kits.
On to the install. Referring to my earlier posts, the 2nd switch in front of the gear lever would be used to arm the meth kit. I decided to mount the tank and pump on the side of the load bin, out of harms way, and where it is currently mounted, it is fairly protected from water thanks to the Armadillo.
Here's a pic of the install:
Subsequent to this, I installed the pump cover, which is essentially a silicone sleeve / sock which fits over the pump. For the meth line, I ran this under the Ute, and then up into the engine bay. I also didn't want the meth line to be too exposed to the elements and possible damage, so after some scratching at my parents house, I found a roll of braided fuel hose which my dad had from years ago. Luckily the meth line was able to fit through this nice and snug, with some mild persuasion. So very happy about this - just another layer of protection.
Here's a pic of the aforementioned fuel hose. I decided to paint the braiding black - just for that extra bit of stealth install:
Next up was to sort out the plumbing for the nozzle. My stainless boost pipes meant that it would possibly be problematic to braze a bung onto the boost pipe, so I tapped a hole for the nozzle to fit in, and it seals with a dowty washer (great little thing this). Here is a pic of the nozzle installed into the fitting which houses the integrated check valve, and the dowty washer:
My plumbing efforts - going well:
I installed the nozzle at the back of the boost pipe, so you don't really notice it unless you look for it:
View inside of how the nozzle sits:
Next up was to finish up all the wiring and get testing with the system. This took quite a bit of time to get done. I also wired in a 5-pin relay - for the boost safe output and to send a ground signal to the boost controller.
Here's a short video of the controller powering up. Strong green LED, and then a steady faded green which means all is operating as it should (If there are faults, it will be a red flash in various sequences). You'll also note the Test button, this can be used to prime the system before use. It varies the voltage to the pump to full power over 3 seconds, then holds it at full power for a further 3 seconds.
AEM controller power-up
And here's a video of the nozzle in action (using the test button):
Meth nozzle testing
In part 2: testing and tuning......
Reserved, battery going to die (thanks load shedding....)
Part 2 (Water/Meth injection install) – testing and tuning.
So having completed all the installation, time to test. I set the controller to come on around 9psi, and the max around 12psi (remember only boosting 0.7bar now). I had a couple of glitches, where once the meth kit started injecting, after about 3 seconds, it would cut out. This in turn triggered boost safe which sent signal to the boost controller as expected. I’m not sure why the controller was cutting out, as it only happened a couple of times – not consistently. I’ll need to try to some more investigation and research into this in time…..
Next up, tuning time with Ross @ RBTS Racing. Went through early on a Monday morning, and after setting the Ute up on the dyno, he proceeded to work his magic. After a while he popped out the dyno room and told me the meth controller is cutting out (as it did with me during testing). He thinks it’s something to do with the boost safe output, so we disconnected that, and then he had no problems after that.
30mins later he was finished and ready to go for a test drive. When he got back, Bern asked for comments to put on the job card. His response: “It now brakes traction in 2nd gear, otherwise great to drive”.
So we all had a good laugh about that. He is happy with the outcome, there are no worrying noises of detonation etc, and it’s very driveable. He’s set it to around 1bar boost (give or take a few decimals depending on atmospheric conditions).
These are the results:
Leaving RBTS, I gave it a few squirts down Pomona and on the highway – much much stronger. You’ll see from the graphs that the powerband is the same, just bigger curves. It feels great on the road, smooth with no funky peaks and troughs. The mid-range is awesome! Just what I wanted for a daily driver.
I’ve really been enjoying the Ute the past 2 weeks since the tune. I haven’t used the new found power each day, but when I have, it’s been all smiles.
A quick video of a 2nd gear pull:
2nd gear pull
And here’s a video of 60-120km/h in 3rd.
60-120 (3rd)
You’ll also notice the LED I mounted in my cluster, so everything still looks (relatively) OEM inside the Ute. I used a blank with the following icon:
According to the owner’s manual, this is for “Corsa Traction Control Warning Light”. In my case, if I see this light, it means a lack of traction is about to ensue, hahaha.
Until next time.....
gavsadler
///Member
Aug-2015 update:
So a few weeks ago, I headed off to ODI with a couple of mates and family, to challenge the 1km and 400m sprints. We decided to go on a non-club specific day (between the ST Owners day and the Fanatics day). Leading up to the day, I went through some usual checks, and a few other "checks".
Took an easy drive all the way there, and after setting up camp for the day, it was time to tackle the 1km. First run was absolutely horrible, the Ute wouldn't rev past 4500rpm, and was sounding terrible. I thought it may be injecting too much meth, which was strange as it hadn't ever complained this badly previously. Anyway, some fiddling and with each subsequent run, things got better, but something still wasn't right. My best time was 187km/h (previously I managed a 201km/h a couple of years ago). Very odd considering that I am now running more boost and subsequently more power than back then.
The 400m drags were also along similar lines. The Ute was not performing as it should. Nevertheless I soldiered on, taking a few wins on the day, along with a few losses. The best time I managed was 15.6 (again disappointing as previously I did a 15.2).
The next few days I decided to do some troubleshooting. One of the "checks" which I did before race day was to see if the cam gears are tight (as I have a noise up in the head somewhere). When I was checking to see that they are tight, the gears in the ratchet slipped. I thought that's all that happened, but all the while in my head I was wondering if the cam gears had slipped on the belt. Not a fun thought, and I really didn't suspect anything because at low speeds the Ute felt perfectly normal.
So off with the cam belt covers, alternator belt and crank pulley. I also pulled the plugs to make it easier to turn the motor by hand. After aligning the bottom pulley, this is what presented itself up top:
Exhaust cam out by 2 teeth:
Very annoying and concerning! I am thankful that no major damage was done. Lesson learned: don't fiddle where it is not necessary to fiddle! Anyway, moving along.
For those who are interested, here are some pointers on how to set the cam timing on the Z20LET/H motors (disclaimer, these are merely steps from my experience, I take no responsibility if something goes wrong, please consult experts if required). P.S: don't mind the dirty motor - I have some leaks which need attending to.
1) Align the bottom pulley on the marks as shown in the picture below. Note that it's a good idea to rotate the motor 2 turns by hand (also to ensure that the top marks are more or less where they should be.
Bottom pulley:
2) Then rotate the crank 180deg (mark pointing at 12 o'clock). This is to ensure that the pistons are not at TDC (so that you don't bend valves when setting the cams).
Rotated 180deg:
3) Next is to set the cams at the top. Ideally you need a cam locking tool, or you loosen the tensioner pulley for the cam belt. You then align the pulleys as follows:
Inlet cam:
Exhaust cam:
4) Don't forget to tension the belt again and lock the tensioner pulley.
5) Rotate the motor 2 turns by hand again, to ensure that marks line up correctly. If you feel resistance at any time - STOP! It may be valves touching on the pistons if something wasn't done correctly.
I must say I was pretty nervous about fixing what I buggered up, but proud to report that all is well again, and the Ute is pulling strong again.
I guess now I will have to schedule another trip to ODI to test again
Thanks to Dannyboy, Tripplescar, Joff and Paschal for the tips and advice on troubleshooting and fixing the issue.
That's all for now.
So a few weeks ago, I headed off to ODI with a couple of mates and family, to challenge the 1km and 400m sprints. We decided to go on a non-club specific day (between the ST Owners day and the Fanatics day). Leading up to the day, I went through some usual checks, and a few other "checks".
Took an easy drive all the way there, and after setting up camp for the day, it was time to tackle the 1km. First run was absolutely horrible, the Ute wouldn't rev past 4500rpm, and was sounding terrible. I thought it may be injecting too much meth, which was strange as it hadn't ever complained this badly previously. Anyway, some fiddling and with each subsequent run, things got better, but something still wasn't right. My best time was 187km/h (previously I managed a 201km/h a couple of years ago). Very odd considering that I am now running more boost and subsequently more power than back then.
The 400m drags were also along similar lines. The Ute was not performing as it should. Nevertheless I soldiered on, taking a few wins on the day, along with a few losses. The best time I managed was 15.6 (again disappointing as previously I did a 15.2).
The next few days I decided to do some troubleshooting. One of the "checks" which I did before race day was to see if the cam gears are tight (as I have a noise up in the head somewhere). When I was checking to see that they are tight, the gears in the ratchet slipped. I thought that's all that happened, but all the while in my head I was wondering if the cam gears had slipped on the belt. Not a fun thought, and I really didn't suspect anything because at low speeds the Ute felt perfectly normal.
So off with the cam belt covers, alternator belt and crank pulley. I also pulled the plugs to make it easier to turn the motor by hand. After aligning the bottom pulley, this is what presented itself up top:
Exhaust cam out by 2 teeth:
Very annoying and concerning! I am thankful that no major damage was done. Lesson learned: don't fiddle where it is not necessary to fiddle! Anyway, moving along.
For those who are interested, here are some pointers on how to set the cam timing on the Z20LET/H motors (disclaimer, these are merely steps from my experience, I take no responsibility if something goes wrong, please consult experts if required). P.S: don't mind the dirty motor - I have some leaks which need attending to.
1) Align the bottom pulley on the marks as shown in the picture below. Note that it's a good idea to rotate the motor 2 turns by hand (also to ensure that the top marks are more or less where they should be.
Bottom pulley:
2) Then rotate the crank 180deg (mark pointing at 12 o'clock). This is to ensure that the pistons are not at TDC (so that you don't bend valves when setting the cams).
Rotated 180deg:
3) Next is to set the cams at the top. Ideally you need a cam locking tool, or you loosen the tensioner pulley for the cam belt. You then align the pulleys as follows:
Inlet cam:
Exhaust cam:
4) Don't forget to tension the belt again and lock the tensioner pulley.
5) Rotate the motor 2 turns by hand again, to ensure that marks line up correctly. If you feel resistance at any time - STOP! It may be valves touching on the pistons if something wasn't done correctly.
I must say I was pretty nervous about fixing what I buggered up, but proud to report that all is well again, and the Ute is pulling strong again.
I guess now I will have to schedule another trip to ODI to test again
Thanks to Dannyboy, Tripplescar, Joff and Paschal for the tips and advice on troubleshooting and fixing the issue.
That's all for now.
car_fanatic
Member
Glad all is well again with the Ute :=):
Luis Malhou
///Member
thats gonna be a strong lil ute... undercover sleeper.
well done on all the work.
:clapper::clapper:
well done on all the work.
:clapper::clapper:
gavsadler
///Member
Update Oct-2015:
So it's been a while. I was shipped off up into Africa (Benin) for 4 weeks for work. So that was pretty much my September month. Been back about 2 weeks now, but no sign of work letting up.
That being said, I did get a few things done. My fluid level sensor in my Meth bottle was faulty, so AEM sent a replacement to me free of charge - 4 days from California to JHB - now that is top class service. I collected it after I returned home, and fitted it soon after. So far so good. It hasn't been sending false signals of low fluid (which in turn was sending the boost controller into limp mode). Will test for another week or 2 to confirm that it is behaving as expected.
Then a couple of weekends ago, I managed to find a couple of hours spare, and finally got round to making a mounting bracket for the boost controller (6 months down the line). I am pretty pleased with the way it came out, and thankfully didn't have to many issues in making it.
Here's some pics of the final install in the binnacle:
All that I still want to do is make some sort of tinted shield which I can cover the boost controller with at night, as the display is a bit too bright at night. I have a few ideas, just need to find the time to try it out....
Until next time....
So it's been a while. I was shipped off up into Africa (Benin) for 4 weeks for work. So that was pretty much my September month. Been back about 2 weeks now, but no sign of work letting up.
That being said, I did get a few things done. My fluid level sensor in my Meth bottle was faulty, so AEM sent a replacement to me free of charge - 4 days from California to JHB - now that is top class service. I collected it after I returned home, and fitted it soon after. So far so good. It hasn't been sending false signals of low fluid (which in turn was sending the boost controller into limp mode). Will test for another week or 2 to confirm that it is behaving as expected.
Then a couple of weekends ago, I managed to find a couple of hours spare, and finally got round to making a mounting bracket for the boost controller (6 months down the line). I am pretty pleased with the way it came out, and thankfully didn't have to many issues in making it.
Here's some pics of the final install in the binnacle:
All that I still want to do is make some sort of tinted shield which I can cover the boost controller with at night, as the display is a bit too bright at night. I have a few ideas, just need to find the time to try it out....
Until next time....
michael.joseph
Active member
Damn, that's some serious passion, knowledge and know how. Good work man. And I see u have one of the few remaining 130i's... Was wondering were they all disappeared to...
I love that car
I love that car
install looks very clean
gavsadler
///Member
Dec-2015 update:
Well it was time to do a service on the Ute. Also, I've had a leak from one of the sump gaskets for a long time now, so decided to take on the crappy job of changing sump gaskets at the same time. I managed to source a replacement sump as well from a mate in KZN, so I wanted to change the lower sump (as this had been damaged when I hit a piece of concrete on the highway a while back. Also whilst changing the sump, I wanted to relocate my oil temperature sender from it's current location (fitting just off the oil pump) into the sump itself, to provide a more accurate reading.
First of all I prepped my replacement lower sump, cleaned it up, and gave it a fresh coat of matt black engine enamel:
Then I drilled a nice round hole to locate my oil temperature sender:
Some pics of the sensor installed:
Then the mammoth task of removing the old sumps started. Space is really tight with the big motor and gearbox in the Ute. Also, some of the sump bolts on the cambelt side of the motor sit directly above the sub-frame. So I had to loosen this side engine mount, as well as the front and LHS gearbox mounts to lift the motor enough to get a socket in there. Also had to do other things like drop the exhaust and loosen the oil supply line to the turbo.
Anyway after much struggling and a few swear words the sumps were removed. I proceeded with cleaning up everything and preparing for reinstallation. Also, seeing as I do not use the oil level sender, I opened up the plug and using a soldering iron, I managed to loosen/remove the wires which run to the sender unit. So now I could just reinstall the plug on the top of the upper sump. I used a new silicone o-ring here as well (20mm x 2.5mm if anyone is interested - you can get this from BMG).
Here's a pic of the oil level sensor:
Reinstalled into the sump, also using oil resistant gasket maker as lube/sealant:
Here's the upper sump prepped and ready to be installed (note that it was completely black on the inside, lots of elbow grease and tools such as paintbrushes, an old toothbrush and petrol to clean it up):
The lower sump and gasket ready to be installed:
Having relocated my oil temperature sender, I had to change my adaptor fitting slightly, and also replaced the piece of high pressure hose with another piece. I figured seeing as access is easy and I'm changing hoses for the sake of reliability, I should do this one too. Anyway, that went fairly quickly, no issues.
After doing this, I had to reinstall everything, tighten engine mounts etc. I then continued with other service items such as washing the air filter, new oil filter and oil, new fuel filter and checked the plugs. All was well.
Then whilst tightening the gearbox mount, I noticed that my water pipe from the turbo to the reservoir was looking a bit dodge, so had to wait a couple of days in order to get some correct size high pressure hose. Replaced that and topped up with fluids.
Started up and all was well, I checked for leaks and did not see anything major. On my oil pressure adaptor, I saw the signs of a drip starting, but I just nipped up the hose clamp another half a turn and all was well. I let the Ute idle until hot with the cooling fans coming on, and then left it to stand.
Next morning same story, started up, left to get hot, checked for leaks and nothing apparent. Happy with the progress, I decided to set off for work. Job done....
Continued….
The drive to work was uneventful. Temperatures and oil pressure was looking good, no funny noises, driving as it should. I didn’t push hard or anything, just a relaxing cruise to the office. I also ended up sitting in some hectic traffic, which was a good test to ensure that everything is functioning normally.
Then, as I am around the corner from the booms into the basement, I see my oil pressure light come on. Hmmm – a concern. However my aftermarket gauge was still showing full pressure, so I thought perhaps the hose clamp was still loose and some oil was seeping out. I coasted along the road as I pulled into the basement, I hear this hissing sound coming from down near the wheel. Definitely not normal. As I pulled through the booms, I switched off the motor and coasted to a stop out of the way of the main traffic flow.
I opened the bonnet and this is what greeted me:
Very annoying. Not sure exactly what the problem was – would require investigation once I could get the Ute home again. I arranged with my brother to come and tow me home that evening. In the meantime, I spent a good amount of time mopping up all the oil which I had dumped in the basement parking area at the office – not a fun job at all.
Once we got the car home, jacked it up, and I had a hunch that there was some or other issue with my oil pressure adaptor. I was right:
The hose which I replaced the day before had failed! It had split on the top half of the hose, so essentially my whole motor, firewall, steering rack and whatever else got a healthy spray of 110deg C Shell HX5 at 6Bar pressure.
I replaced this hose again, this time with a brand new piece (extra from when I replaced my water hose), and put everything back together. Job done… again.
It’s been about 2 weeks since I did this job, and the Ute has been running faultlessly since then. No apparent leaks from this fitting or from the sump gasket anywhere. I do however have a leak on the oil return pipe from the turbo, but a new pipe is on order and I’ll replace that as soon as it arrives.
That’s all for now.
Well it was time to do a service on the Ute. Also, I've had a leak from one of the sump gaskets for a long time now, so decided to take on the crappy job of changing sump gaskets at the same time. I managed to source a replacement sump as well from a mate in KZN, so I wanted to change the lower sump (as this had been damaged when I hit a piece of concrete on the highway a while back. Also whilst changing the sump, I wanted to relocate my oil temperature sender from it's current location (fitting just off the oil pump) into the sump itself, to provide a more accurate reading.
First of all I prepped my replacement lower sump, cleaned it up, and gave it a fresh coat of matt black engine enamel:
Then I drilled a nice round hole to locate my oil temperature sender:
Some pics of the sensor installed:
Then the mammoth task of removing the old sumps started. Space is really tight with the big motor and gearbox in the Ute. Also, some of the sump bolts on the cambelt side of the motor sit directly above the sub-frame. So I had to loosen this side engine mount, as well as the front and LHS gearbox mounts to lift the motor enough to get a socket in there. Also had to do other things like drop the exhaust and loosen the oil supply line to the turbo.
Anyway after much struggling and a few swear words the sumps were removed. I proceeded with cleaning up everything and preparing for reinstallation. Also, seeing as I do not use the oil level sender, I opened up the plug and using a soldering iron, I managed to loosen/remove the wires which run to the sender unit. So now I could just reinstall the plug on the top of the upper sump. I used a new silicone o-ring here as well (20mm x 2.5mm if anyone is interested - you can get this from BMG).
Here's a pic of the oil level sensor:
Reinstalled into the sump, also using oil resistant gasket maker as lube/sealant:
Here's the upper sump prepped and ready to be installed (note that it was completely black on the inside, lots of elbow grease and tools such as paintbrushes, an old toothbrush and petrol to clean it up):
The lower sump and gasket ready to be installed:
Having relocated my oil temperature sender, I had to change my adaptor fitting slightly, and also replaced the piece of high pressure hose with another piece. I figured seeing as access is easy and I'm changing hoses for the sake of reliability, I should do this one too. Anyway, that went fairly quickly, no issues.
After doing this, I had to reinstall everything, tighten engine mounts etc. I then continued with other service items such as washing the air filter, new oil filter and oil, new fuel filter and checked the plugs. All was well.
Then whilst tightening the gearbox mount, I noticed that my water pipe from the turbo to the reservoir was looking a bit dodge, so had to wait a couple of days in order to get some correct size high pressure hose. Replaced that and topped up with fluids.
Started up and all was well, I checked for leaks and did not see anything major. On my oil pressure adaptor, I saw the signs of a drip starting, but I just nipped up the hose clamp another half a turn and all was well. I let the Ute idle until hot with the cooling fans coming on, and then left it to stand.
Next morning same story, started up, left to get hot, checked for leaks and nothing apparent. Happy with the progress, I decided to set off for work. Job done....
Continued….
The drive to work was uneventful. Temperatures and oil pressure was looking good, no funny noises, driving as it should. I didn’t push hard or anything, just a relaxing cruise to the office. I also ended up sitting in some hectic traffic, which was a good test to ensure that everything is functioning normally.
Then, as I am around the corner from the booms into the basement, I see my oil pressure light come on. Hmmm – a concern. However my aftermarket gauge was still showing full pressure, so I thought perhaps the hose clamp was still loose and some oil was seeping out. I coasted along the road as I pulled into the basement, I hear this hissing sound coming from down near the wheel. Definitely not normal. As I pulled through the booms, I switched off the motor and coasted to a stop out of the way of the main traffic flow.
I opened the bonnet and this is what greeted me:
Very annoying. Not sure exactly what the problem was – would require investigation once I could get the Ute home again. I arranged with my brother to come and tow me home that evening. In the meantime, I spent a good amount of time mopping up all the oil which I had dumped in the basement parking area at the office – not a fun job at all.
Once we got the car home, jacked it up, and I had a hunch that there was some or other issue with my oil pressure adaptor. I was right:
The hose which I replaced the day before had failed! It had split on the top half of the hose, so essentially my whole motor, firewall, steering rack and whatever else got a healthy spray of 110deg C Shell HX5 at 6Bar pressure.
I replaced this hose again, this time with a brand new piece (extra from when I replaced my water hose), and put everything back together. Job done… again.
It’s been about 2 weeks since I did this job, and the Ute has been running faultlessly since then. No apparent leaks from this fitting or from the sump gasket anywhere. I do however have a leak on the oil return pipe from the turbo, but a new pipe is on order and I’ll replace that as soon as it arrives.
That’s all for now.
car_fanatic
Member
Great work. :clapper: Glad the oil leak didn't cause any damage.
ballisticz466
///Member
very, very impressive.
:clapper::clapper:raise:raise:raise:
:clapper::clapper:
raise:raise:raise:
