BuildaBeemer: Building a BMW E46 Track Car

[Zound]

The video footage is what you're looking for!

We'll post that soon enough.

Craig did a super job in qualifying, putting down a 1:17 flat at Zwartkops.

That may not sound impressive, but this is coming from 1:21 lap times last year during free practice!

The open diff and long gearing is an absolute horror at the final corner leading onto the pit straight - we're forced to choose between a very high rpm in 2nd gear or keep it in 3rd gear and be out of the decent part of the power band. Both options still loose out even further when the open diff spins the inside wheel while the outside wheel waits to "slingshot" into motion.

So - really excited to see the improvements when we receive the custom built diff. We'll talk about this (Probably a video too) in more detail once received.

With regards to the power - Unichip is getting removed and we'll see what Excede can do for us. Need to establish first whether they are confident to undertake the detailed tuning requirements for these specific modifications.

Here are a few photos from the race weekend:

 

[individj]

i await your info about the tuning saga

 

[Carbonic135]

And Race 2, with Nick...

[video=youtube]

 

[Carbonic135]

OK chaps, got off my bum and got some videos trimmed & tweaked, uploaded to YouTube, and re-deciphered the code on how to embed them here.

So, at the risk of video overload, here's some stuff thats been lurking in the wings for some time now:

First up: Races 1 and 2 at the Passion for Speed, with me and Nick in the respective hot seats...

Race 1: Craig (apologies for the blur in the top rh corner - I had to tape up the lap timer & did a botch job)
[video=youtube]

Race 2: Nick
[video=youtube]

 

[PaKiMoNSTeR]

My 2c on spending money on power mods. Take your time in getting the chassis and braking setup right before chasing power. Once that is done, spend more money on seat time. Power should be the last thing to add to the shopping list.

The engine in my race car is an off the shelf import M52 with M50 intake and M3 branches. It makes 179kw and a little over 300nm and along with the 3.64 ls diff its more than enough. Around our track it's probably the only stock motor BMW and its probably the slowest in a straight line but around the twisty sections it more than makes up for it. The joy of having to really drive it to get past is way better than just overtaking down the straight.

The 2nd point is reliability. I've been running this setup for more than 2 years with no issues. I won the championship last year not because I'm the fastest guy there but because the car finishes races and that's the point. Don't go too far down the rabbit hole as it sucks you in very quickly. Trust me I speak form experience.

 

[Salt]

Please can you do a split screen with a rear view camera...my nerves are finished watching and not knowing how far the others are behind you hahahaha. Well done - you guys look like pros!

 

[Johannkoegelenberg]

Exciting thread and very very jealous. Well done guys.

 

[Zound]

Alright, update time!

We've got a splitter!

Check it out:

Step 1: Maizey I-Bond (Thanks for the suggestion Ian)

Step 2: Get the jigsaw out

Step 3:

Step 4:

Step 5:

Step 6:

Step 7:

Step 8:

 

[Nürburgring'R_ZA]

Great progress guys. It's like you read my mind with today's post. I was wondering about the aerodynamics side of things. I see you're addressing it. What else will you be adding after the splitter? Also (out of interest), do you think launch might be beneficial, or is it better-suited for the drag strip?

 

[Crash_Nemesis]

Very cool

 

[Salt]

I have to ask what the purpose of that splitter install is please - and this is coming from pure ignorance

 

[Carbonic135]

Mainly to look cool?.
But seriously, the splitter is essentially an aerodynamic aid - it “splits” the air
hitting the front of the car cleanly, separating the air which needs to flow underneath the car, from that which flows over the car, and in this case, through the front of the car for radiator, brake cooling, etc. In our case the latter is the more pressing issue - we need to ensure that we have good airflow channeled through the radiator, as we were getting cooling issues at the last race.

 

[Salt]

OK makes sense...thanks for the explanation. Keen to hear how effective it is!

 

[Zound]

i await your info about the tuning saga

At the moment, we're looking at tuning the car ourselves.

I know, this sounds very foolish, but I simply don't believe that any of the aftermarket piggyback chips can extract/optimise the car based on the current hardware modifications. My concern lies specifically with the ability to adjust the VANOS, which none of the aftermarket tuners, via their chosen piggyback, have expressed any degree of confidence in their capability of tuning this aspect.

This would be a completely different discussion if we had decided to invest in a replacement standalone ECU and decided to rebuild the harness for that. There are many competent tuners around for the likes of Powermods, Spitronics, Megasquirt, Motec etc but not, in my opinion, for re-flashing/tuning the factory BMW (Siemens) MS43 DME.

This has only become an option for us because of the extensive development done by the MS43 development crew, who have essentially unlocked the MS43 DME and made it completely possible for amateurs, like ourselves, to adjust almost everything that goes on in the MS43 DME.

Take a look here for some background to the MS43 developments:
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1082287
https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title=Siemens_MS43

So far, we've flashed the core development file to the car (Version 56, EWS Delete and Checksum correction disabled).

We're ordering a wideband oxygen sensor (Innovate LC2 with Bosch LSU 4.9) and controller so that we can log Lambda/AFR's through the RomRaider logging software suite.

Once we've got to grips with the software and done enough road tuning, we'll need to find a Dyno where we can rent some time and get the tuning dialed in accurately.

Here's a couple screenshots from Rom Raiders ECU Editor:

1. Ignition Advance optimal for warm engine

2. Intake and Exhaust VANOS for Full Load condition warm engine

 

[Crash_Nemesis]

@Salt

A front splitter will also help with front grip as it forces the air under the car to move faster, causing a low pressure zone which sucks the car downward. The front tires will have more grip and you can enter corners faster.

Just bare in mind you would need some more rear wing to balance this out, otherwise the rear will lose grip.

 

[Salt]

i await your info about the tuning saga

At the moment, we're looking at tuning the car ourselves.

I know, this sounds very foolish, but I simply don't believe that any of the aftermarket piggyback chips can extract/optimise the car based on the current hardware modifications. My concern lies specifically with the ability to adjust the VANOS, which none of the aftermarket tuners, via their chosen piggyback, have expressed any degree of confidence in their capability of tuning this aspect.

This would be a completely different discussion if we had decided to invest in a replacement standalone ECU and decided to rebuild the harness for that. There are many competent tuners around for the likes of Powermods, Spitronics, Megasquirt, Motec etc but not, in my opinion, for re-flashing/tuning the factory BMW (Siemens) MS43 DME.

This has only become an option for us because of the extensive development done by the MS43 development crew, who have essentially unlocked the MS43 DME and made it completely possible for amateurs, like ourselves, to adjust almost everything that goes on in the MS43 DME.

Take a look here for some background to the MS43 developments:
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1082287
https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title=Siemens_MS43

So far, we've flashed the core development file to the car (Version 56, EWS Delete and Checksum correction disabled).

We're ordering a wideband oxygen sensor (Innovate LC2 with Bosch LSU 4.9) and controller so that we can log Lambda/AFR's through the RomRaider logging software suite.

Once we've got to grips with the software and done enough road tuning, we'll need to find a Dyno where we can rent some time and get the tuning dialed in accurately.

Wow...do you guys have some background or experience in this field or are you guys gonna wing it and use the net for help? From what I've read you guys certainly have experience/knowledge on the mechanical side of the car/engine - so I think if you guys can wrap your heads around the bit that monitors and controls the aforementioned you'll be well on your way...I think its just a process now of linking A to B. And, in your situation you have the time to do it. So once you've mastered this it will pay off in the long run. Who knows...maybe I can bring my ride to you soon for a tune hehehe. Have to ask, you keep mentioning that the piggy back chips won't work, why not then just take the car to a tuner like ATM, Excede or RK to remap the existing onboard chip rather than using a piggy back?

Looking forward to the next video. PS...remember my hint about the orange rear spoiler...

 

[Salt]

@Salt

A front splitter will also help with front grip as it forces the air under the car to move faster, causing a low pressure zone which sucks the car downward. The front tires will have more grip and you can enter corners faster.

Just bare in mind you would need some more rear wing to balance this out, otherwise the rear will lose grip.

You learning something every day...thanks for that info.

 

[individj]

i await your info about the tuning saga

At the moment, we're looking at tuning the car ourselves.

I know, this sounds very foolish, but I simply don't believe that any of the aftermarket piggyback chips can extract/optimise the car based on the current hardware modifications. My concern lies specifically with the ability to adjust the VANOS, which none of the aftermarket tuners, via their chosen piggyback, have expressed any degree of confidence in their capability of tuning this aspect.

This would be a completely different discussion if we had decided to invest in a replacement standalone ECU and decided to rebuild the harness for that. There are many competent tuners around for the likes of Powermods, Spitronics, Megasquirt, Motec etc but not, in my opinion, for re-flashing/tuning the factory BMW (Siemens) MS43 DME.

This has only become an option for us because of the extensive development done by the MS43 development crew, who have essentially unlocked the MS43 DME and made it completely possible for amateurs, like ourselves, to adjust almost everything that goes on in the MS43 DME.

Take a look here for some background to the MS43 developments:
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1082287
https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title=Siemens_MS43

So far, we've flashed the core development file to the car (Version 56, EWS Delete and Checksum correction disabled).

We're ordering a wideband oxygen sensor (Innovate LC2 with Bosch LSU 4.9) and controller so that we can log Lambda/AFR's through the RomRaider logging software suite.

Once we've got to grips with the software and done enough road tuning, we'll need to find a Dyno where we can rent some time and get the tuning dialed in accurately.

Here's a couple screenshots from Rom Raiders ECU Editor:

1. Ignition Advance optimal for warm engine

2. Intake and Exhaust VANOS for Full Load condition warm engine

Thanks for the reply ...doesnt sound foolish at all.

 

[Zound]

So we're long over due for an update and thanks to the COVID-19 lock-down, we've got some time on our hands to do just that.

To start off, here is a better shot of the car with the new splitter. I really think this is going to be a huge aid to our cooling system and to improve front end grip.

 

[Zound]

Next up, our new fuel injectors arrived.

We've gone with Bosch 24lb fuel injectors - 0 280 155 715

These injectors spray vertically out at 180 degrees from the injector, as opposed to the old injectors which had a spray angle to direct the spray onto the back of the intake valves. In the M50 manifold, the injectors have to be rotated by 180 degrees, which means that the old injectors would spray up towards the intake manifold and not onto the back of the intake valves as per design.

Here is a picture of the new injectors installed:

When we started up the car for the first time with the new injectors, the car ran horribly rough and sounded like it was misfiring on at least one of the cylinders.
It turned out that we had a bad fuel injector on cylinder 1. Fortunately the kit that we purchased was a bundle of 8 fuel injectors, so we swapped that injector out and the car proceeded to start and run without any problems.