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Dippies
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Welcome to the Forum :thumbs:
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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
Hi I'm Rommies: Car Updates!!!
- Thread starter Rommies
- Start date
Andy1GP
///Member
Hierso
http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=37659
This should be more economical than your Hilux :fencelook:
http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=37659
This should be more economical than your Hilux :fencelook:
Rommies
Active member
Just a repost from the Supra forums: (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?682508-Alternator-brackets-broken.)
Just to keep you guys updated with my "Corolla!"
Ok...so I have been struggeling for the past 2 months. Came with some ideas but when actually literally looking at the car...things didn't look promising. So I went and bought a 4.5 mm stainless steel plate (400mm x 400mm) ~ to cut out the bracket offcourse.
Drilled two 6mm holes through the cast iron block (bracket on engine block) it was very hard to get a drill in there. I eventually took the bumper off and took out the radiator. The other problem we faced was that the drill's chuck was in the way when trying to drill a pilot hole.
So thats why the hole to the right was slightly drilled at a angle.
The problem I'm facing now is that the left bolt is sticking out too much, it is going to be in the way of the alternator bracket. So I'm thinking of drilling a bigger hole...so that I can get a "tapering" effect. I will also need to put in a nut spacer where the alternator is going to bolt on. (between the stainless bracket and engine block bracket) Then I'll drill a 8mm hole in to stainless steel bracket. I can not drill a hole to far away from the original hole of the engine bracket, otherwise the drive belt is not going to fit....
This is just a test run to see if this is going to work.
I'll keep you guys updated.
Ps: I'm open for better/improved ideas.
This is sort of how the bracket looks at the moment:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The alternator mounts on the waterpump and then on the engine block.
I managed to put on my new waterpump. Without removing the crank pulley. (because we couldn't get the crank's pulley nut off) I then also changed my timing belt at the same time. My bracket worked out perfectly. Everything is back on except my Radiator and front bumper. I'll have her fully up and running by the end of this week.
(Just waiting to get my bumper back. Someone borrowed it for copying/molding)
I'll post up some more detailed pics later on.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So she is up and running again. Drive belt is running 100%
This is just a picture to show that the drive belt is in line and not running skew or anything.
And this is a picture from underneath to show how I bolted the bracket onto the broken engine bracket.
Summary:
The correct way to fix this whole thing entirely would be a new engine. But unfortunately due to the hard economical times here is RSA, I cannot afford a new engine just for a broken bracket.
So I replaced the waterpump instead. (about R2000 incl VAT) and made my own bracket. (stainless steel 4.5mm thick, R450) Drilled two holes into the broken engine bracket and bolted the "newly designed SS bracket" onto it with 6mm bolts.
Drilled a 10mm hole in to SS bracket for the alternator bolt and used a locktite nut.
All in all the biggest job was modifying the timing cover, to take it off without removing the crank pulley etc. and putting in a new waterpump. (Also stripping front like radiator, bumper, boost pipes etc.)
My plan worked out a lot cheaper and running 100%
I'm happy and another Supra on the roads!
<(^^,)>
Just to keep you guys updated with my "Corolla!"
Ok...so I have been struggeling for the past 2 months. Came with some ideas but when actually literally looking at the car...things didn't look promising. So I went and bought a 4.5 mm stainless steel plate (400mm x 400mm) ~ to cut out the bracket offcourse.
Drilled two 6mm holes through the cast iron block (bracket on engine block) it was very hard to get a drill in there. I eventually took the bumper off and took out the radiator. The other problem we faced was that the drill's chuck was in the way when trying to drill a pilot hole.
So thats why the hole to the right was slightly drilled at a angle.
The problem I'm facing now is that the left bolt is sticking out too much, it is going to be in the way of the alternator bracket. So I'm thinking of drilling a bigger hole...so that I can get a "tapering" effect. I will also need to put in a nut spacer where the alternator is going to bolt on. (between the stainless bracket and engine block bracket) Then I'll drill a 8mm hole in to stainless steel bracket. I can not drill a hole to far away from the original hole of the engine bracket, otherwise the drive belt is not going to fit....
This is just a test run to see if this is going to work.
I'll keep you guys updated.
Ps: I'm open for better/improved ideas.
This is sort of how the bracket looks at the moment:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
She was in a hectic crash a few years ago.Tayousei;8963938 said:
The alternator mounts on the waterpump and then on the engine block.
I managed to put on my new waterpump. Without removing the crank pulley. (because we couldn't get the crank's pulley nut off) I then also changed my timing belt at the same time. My bracket worked out perfectly. Everything is back on except my Radiator and front bumper. I'll have her fully up and running by the end of this week.
(Just waiting to get my bumper back. Someone borrowed it for copying/molding)
I'll post up some more detailed pics later on.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So she is up and running again. Drive belt is running 100%
This is just a picture to show that the drive belt is in line and not running skew or anything.
And this is a picture from underneath to show how I bolted the bracket onto the broken engine bracket.
Summary:
The correct way to fix this whole thing entirely would be a new engine. But unfortunately due to the hard economical times here is RSA, I cannot afford a new engine just for a broken bracket.
So I replaced the waterpump instead. (about R2000 incl VAT) and made my own bracket. (stainless steel 4.5mm thick, R450) Drilled two holes into the broken engine bracket and bolted the "newly designed SS bracket" onto it with 6mm bolts.
Drilled a 10mm hole in to SS bracket for the alternator bolt and used a locktite nut.
All in all the biggest job was modifying the timing cover, to take it off without removing the crank pulley etc. and putting in a new waterpump. (Also stripping front like radiator, bumper, boost pipes etc.)
My plan worked out a lot cheaper and running 100%
I'm happy and another Supra on the roads!
<(^^,)>
S
SP33DYV
Guest
'n Boer maak 'n plan.:thumbs:
S
SP33DYV
Guest
Andy1GP said:
I believe quite a bit as well.:fencelook:
S
SP33DYV
Guest
Rommies said:
:whip:
Rommies
Active member
So this morning I went to test fit my new wheels.
It fits perfect at the back with a 265/35 tyre.
It only sticks out little bit in front. We quickly test fitted it with a 225/40 tyre though.
It really doesn't look that bad...I decided to purchase the set (without tyres) I can always sell it again.
Here is a picture, what do you guys think?
And there is enough space to drop the car lower....but unfortunately I don't want to visit the body shop every week because of the crap condition of our roads. Always bloody potholes/bumps or uneven road surfaces (dipping) so I guess I'll keep her a bit higher.
It fits perfect at the back with a 265/35 tyre.
It only sticks out little bit in front. We quickly test fitted it with a 225/40 tyre though.
It really doesn't look that bad...I decided to purchase the set (without tyres) I can always sell it again.
Here is a picture, what do you guys think?
And there is enough space to drop the car lower....but unfortunately I don't want to visit the body shop every week because of the crap condition of our roads. Always bloody potholes/bumps or uneven road surfaces (dipping) so I guess I'll keep her a bit higher.
Rommies
Active member
Thanks guys.
I just need tyres now. :rollsmile:
I guess Toyos best bang for buck?
I really don't need the best tyres.
Any cheapies will do. As I drive the car once a week.
Thanks man! The project D1R only comes in 3 colours: (according to lenso SA)
Matt Black with Red lip
White with red lip
And Hyper Silver
The matt black and white ones I can find at different places like big boss auto etc. Apparently there is no hyper silver ones in SA? I waited about 3-4 months on a E.T.A on these Lenso's. So I guess this is the first set in SA?
I wish they had something like gun metal or something.
So I figured the hyper silver will look best... maybe later stage i could do refurbish the wheels to something like this:
I just need tyres now. :rollsmile:
I guess Toyos best bang for buck?
I really don't need the best tyres.
Any cheapies will do. As I drive the car once a week.
herr bmw said:
Thanks man! The project D1R only comes in 3 colours: (according to lenso SA)
Matt Black with Red lip
White with red lip
And Hyper Silver
The matt black and white ones I can find at different places like big boss auto etc. Apparently there is no hyper silver ones in SA? I waited about 3-4 months on a E.T.A on these Lenso's. So I guess this is the first set in SA?
I wish they had something like gun metal or something.
So I figured the hyper silver will look best... maybe later stage i could do refurbish the wheels to something like this:
