E90 325i Turbo

[kilotango]

come on hommies... the OP clearly has a plan set out, thats he's keen to do.

i think he understands the consequences or issues that people have raised.

let him get on with it? i would love to see the end results.. whether good or bad.. on this forum.

these build/modding threads are always awesome and educational regardless.

 

[SMRTARSX1]

come on hommies... the OP clearly has a plan set out, thats he's keen to do.

i think he understands the consequences or issues that people have raised.

let him get on with it? i would love to see the end results.. whether good or bad.. on this forum.

these build/modding threads are always awesome and educational regardless.

I might be speaking only for myself here, but as a car enthusiast I get no pleasure in watching folk ruin good cars. But, it is his car and his money.

 

[Dr Evil]

I'd really love to see your project succeed but if i may make a suggestion, if you are intent on boosting your car buy a second hand N52 325i motor and do it to that one, this way if things do not pan out as planned you can put the original motor back while still maintaining your resale value somewhat.


Sent from my iPhone+ using my finger

 

[zakes27]

might want to change the cam bearing ledge as well, the 06 model has a weak cam bearing ledge, later models has a teflon cam bearing ledge. heard of cams snapping because of the weak cam bearing ledge.

 

[AdiS]

I suppose it comes down to your aims. If you're hoping to get something driveable in short term for low cost. Then you're wasting your time, as indicated. this will cost a LOT more than you expect (like not just double, we're talking 3-4-5 times as much).

If your aim is to not care about dosh and just learn how to do insane stuff on cars, then yeah, go ahead.

But at the end of the day your 325iTurbo will still get shredded by a stock 335, and absolutely melted by a 335 with even the lightest of mods.

And you'd likely have spent similar money (if not a substantial amount more).

This.

If you accept the fact that it is objectively true that a 335i is the cheaper, easier, safer, more reliable way towards better performance, then people will stop giving you a hard time.

If you're just out to do something different, regardless of the implications, then cool - all the best!

 

[Zach]

Have you given the drivetrain and brakes any thought? They will also need upgrading to cope with the extra power. You see it's not as simple as slapping a turbo on and calling it a day, it doesn't work that way. The 335i isnt just a bigger engine than your 325i, everything around it is uprated to cope with the extra power and torque the n54/55 make.

---

Good idea dr evil, blow up a junkyard 325i engine instead of your original.

 

[KingKalie]

:thumbs:

 

[DieselFan]

come on hommies... the OP clearly has a plan set out, thats he's keen to do.

i think he understands the consequences or issues that people have raised.

let him get on with it? i would love to see the end results.. whether good or bad.. on this forum.

these build/modding threads are always awesome and educational regardless.

I don't think he understands at all. It's not a feesible idea. Like has been said it will kill the resale of the car. And make it unreliable and butcher most of the car to "make it work"

One wouldn't attempt this if they thought it was a kak idea that it is.

Never mind a stock 335i eating this turbo 325i a 330d with basic mods will give this thing a hiding if it doesn't explode on the run. Sell the 325i and buy something you can afford that's faster. Buy a 330d or a 335i. Make decent reliable power.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[Preshen14]

Give this man a bells

 

[kilotango]

come on hommies... the OP clearly has a plan set out, thats he's keen to do.

i think he understands the consequences or issues that people have raised.

let him get on with it? i would love to see the end results.. whether good or bad.. on this forum.

these build/modding threads are always awesome and educational regardless.

I don't think he understands at all. It's not a feesible idea. Like has been said it will kill the resale of the car. And make it unreliable and butcher most of the car to "make it work"

One wouldn't attempt this if they thought it was a kak idea that it is.

Never mind a stock 335i eating this turbo 325i a 330d with basic mods will give this thing a hiding if it doesn't explode on the run. Sell the 325i and buy something you can afford that's faster. Buy a 330d or a 335i. Make decent reliable power.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

agreed, it doesnt make sense...as a purist, or pragmatic owner... but what if this was just for fun, with all risks being accepted?

the overseas guys seem to be having fun with similar projects on the N52 :smilebounce::

[video=youtube]

 

[r-hart]

Hi OP

I for one would like to wish you all the best with your project. I know there are alot of negatives for this build, and mostly are true. But i hope for your build, it works out in your favour.

I'm sure 335's, and 330ds will be faster even after you at your max power on this build, but lots of people don't realise that's not always the point of builds like these.

Having done builds/mechanical work on your own car or even going through the hardships during the build, gives you a different feeling when you done and the car is running. Leave alone the knowledge you will gain from breaking parts to researching how things work in specific areas of a car.

Goodluck! I hope you win with it. And im sure a lot of people will be great-full for the knowledge shared, especially if your build is successful.

PS, Boost in very slow increments. And don't chase power too much!

 

[Nikhil]

any work started with this yet

 

[Miley]

Update to all:

Build moving along, learning curve with this build so need to kinda make up things as we go along.

Things done:

Water Lines and bottle moved to passenger side
Oil feed tapped into oil switch
Oil return added to sump (Getting sump off not the easiest)
Busy fabricating Moc manifolds & downpipe

Manifold taking the most amount of time, didnt want to take the head off and dnt have a spare so having to to this piece by pice

received all parts needed - Total spent this far - 9K

Here pics of the progress

:fencelook:

 

[922-ZN]

Hot side of the turbo going to be mounted directly on top of the head like that???

Wow, RIP to those wires and coils:fencelook:

 

[husaindindar]

A few weeks back I was at SavSpeed. He had a full turbo kit collecting dust for a N52. There was also a manifold. Maybe go and have a look at the design or buy it off him?
I agree about the turbo. Turbine side too close to everything fragile.

---

BTW,
I'm no pro at this but, can a N54 manifold be used with the twin turbo's?
Might be an easier option?

 

[Miley]

was a concern, everything will be wrapped and heat shielded, but still moc unit so will change slightly when completed.

here a link with some top mount installations:


Issue is cost, and would still have to cut them to make them fit vs DIY seems way more cost effective and results pretty much the same

 

[Nikhil]

So at the risk of sounding like everyone else this is why your current approach is not going to work

-injectors are way too small
-Stock MAF is going to shit itself when boost kicks in
-no compression drop
-stock gasket
-stock head bolts

Now the reason for these engines not being a good choice for boost is because the ally block is extremely soft and with the increased heat and high boost you will either crack the cylinder walls or the head will separate from the block with the stock head studs (this will make for an interesting video so please keep a camera handy) . Now if you don’t want your engine to explode the proper way to do this for low boost is as follows.

- ARP head bolts
- Cutring or MLS gasket to drop compression
- Larger injectors
- An ECU option or tuning option that deletes the MAF

Also drilling the sump and welding it while attached to the engine isn’t the greatest of ideas as you now have metal filings contaminating the oil and engine and no matter how many flushes you do they will probably still be there and at some point will clog the oil pump and boom or block the vanos solenoids or get into the turbo oil feed and boom.

If you want to boost the engine great. Just do it properly or with the basics mentioned above.

 

[sash]

Also drilling the sump and welding it while attached to the engine isn’t the greatest of ideas as you now have metal filings contaminating the oil and engine and no matter how many flushes you do they will probably still be there and at some point will clog the oil pump and boom or block the vanos solenoids or get into the turbo oil feed and boom.

Pic 3 and 4 shows the sump off the motor there.

 

[Nikhil]

Also drilling the sump and welding it while attached to the engine isn’t the greatest of ideas as you now have metal filings contaminating the oil and engine and no matter how many flushes you do they will probably still be there and at some point will clog the oil pump and boom or block the vanos solenoids or get into the turbo oil feed and boom.

Pic 3 and 4 shows the sump off the motor there.

i just see "Image can not be displayed" for the first 4 :hammerhead:

 

[Miley]

So at the risk of sounding like everyone else this is why your current approach is not going to work

-injectors are way too small
-Stock MAF is going to shit itself when boost kicks in
-no compression drop
-stock gasket
-stock head bolts

Now the reason for these engines not being a good choice for boost is because the ally block is extremely soft and with the increased heat and high boost you will either crack the cylinder walls or the head will separate from the block with the stock head studs (this will make for an interesting video so please keep a camera handy) . Now if you don’t want your engine to explode the proper way to do this for low boost is as follows.

- ARP head bolts
- Cutring or MLS gasket to drop compression
- Larger injectors
- An ECU option or tuning option that deletes the MAF

Also drilling the sump and welding it while attached to the engine isn’t the greatest of ideas as you now have metal filings contaminating the oil and engine and no matter how many flushes you do they will probably still be there and at some point will clog the oil pump and boom or block the vanos solenoids or get into the turbo oil feed and boom.

If you want to boost the engine great. Just do it properly or with the basics mentioned above.

Sump plug added off the car, for the intent we will be running low boost and testing as we go along.

Compression research “machined piston tops seems to be better route to take” researching into this luckily a good friend of mine has all the machinery required to have this done so if needed will be considered.

MAF will be looking at using an aftermarket one based on how stock one performs

Head bolds, once again should be fine under low boost application, milling machine will do the work if it becomes an issue,,, bolts on 335 much larger so it is being considered as an option