Crash's Jezebel in for a Rebuild-Rebuilding an e46 S54 UPDATE on page 26

Nikhil

Honorary ///Member
BillyBob said:
Gizmo said:
I've never stripped a thread with mine, +-6years of use. Besides, its kinda difficult to strip a thread when you use it mainly for removing bolts...


For tightening, you use your hand or hand tools to start threading the bolt to make sure you don't cross thread it, then change over to air wrench to get the bolt in quickly to the point it stops, then back to hand tools or torque wrench to tighten.



I know... I'm just winding you up with a bit of a play on words...

Don't strip your moer. ;)



Nothing strips threads better than a Dutch oke with a spanner:flyfun:
 

Crash_Nemesis

///Member
Gtech believed heavily upon the dutchman tight method.


gavsadler said:
Compliments to all who played a role in this build. Job well done it seems. (Not that you had any other option, with the amount of people watching this thread, it's important not to make your name toffee :rollsmile:)

And the pics and vids made it that much more pleasurable to read. Also learnt quite a bit here.

And congrats to Crash for finally getting your car back. Time to enjoy it again, and reap the rewards of all the madness.

Perhaps a suggestion (and apologies if I've missed it), but perhaps a summary of what all has been done to Jezebel overall? As well as what is new to this particular build which will differentiate it from other Ms?

Keep up the good work!

I only saw this message now. Apologies Gav.

Ok, what has been done to Jezebel overall.

She was leaking oil badly from the Sump gasket and had a horrible vibration when driving her. Obviously once pulling the engine we discovered the source of the massive vibrations. The gearbox was only held onto the engine by two bolts. The rest had either fallen out (because they were the wrong spec bolt) or where never installed. Most likely the former.

Upon opening the sump, we discovered the source of the massive leak. There simply was no metal sump gasket. Only silicon sealant which does not seal correctly.

That being said, the following was done to this engine.

BLOCK
1. The block was previously bored out to 87.5mm. Stock bore is 87mm. This makes the car roughly a 3.3litre engine as opposed to 3.2l. More low down torque.

2. The block was re-sleeved and honed using a specified pattern by CP pistons for good oil spread and less friction on the pistons during operation. This gives a more responsive engine. You can see the cross hatched lines in the cylinder walls in the photos and videos.

3. The engine currently runs CP forged pistons with stock 11:5.1 compression. The pistons weigh twice as light as OEM stock pistons. CP is a company owned by Carillo. They create Pistons for Nascar racing.

4. The engine currently runs Horsepower Freaks Crower Rods with Crower bolts. Just to give you an idea who crower are, they make rods for top fuel dragsters and they created the rods for the HPF turbo charged M3's which run well over 1400hp.

5. The engine was blueprinted and crank balanced. The engineers that Peter uses measured each piston size and bored each cylinder according to their respective piston to create the tightest seal possible for best compression. If cylinder 2 piston was 87.51mm, the bore was 87.51mm, if cylinder 3 piston was 87.48mm, the cylinder was 87.48mm.

6. New CP piston rings were brought in and correctly gaped to create the tightest oil seal so very little blow by occurs.

7. ARP L19 bolts used througout the build. Can hold over 1200hp.

8. The car has Vac Motorsports uprated oil pump gears to help move oil quicker through the engine and eliminate the chance of the oil pump gear breaking via a factory defect that occurs in some e46 M3s.

CYLINDER HEAD

1. The old stock Valves were removed and replaced with Vac motorsports High Performance race valves. These use single Large groove cotters as opposed to three small grooves. Better grip on the valve. The valves also weigh considerably less than stock, eliminating valve float on higher rpm. These race valves are also made of inconel. A very heat resistant metal that can take massive abuse on long endurance races.

2. The cylinder head was given a 3 valve cut job, thus creating a better acceleration of the air going into the engine. More air means more power.

3. Vanos seals and anti rattle kit installed.

The rest of the engine was returned to OEM standard. This was done by replacing any missing bolts or toyota bolts that where used on the engine by the previous idiots who worked on the car.


In the end, whether any of these engine upgrades truly give the car more power are to be seen. I know for a fact that the car does have more torque than stock, but HP should remain the same. The difference is, this engine revs up so fast, so smoothly, that it acquires said HP must faster and smoother, thus allowing the car to get on the power earlier.

She was built to withstand the high stresses of boost.
 

gavsadler

///Member
Thanks for the feedback Chris.

As a side note, years ago I rebuilt my 1600 opel motor, and had the entire rotating assembly balanced. I actually lost 2kw, but gained about 10% in torque. Fuel economy also improved about 5 %

So im interested to see how it all turns out, to compare apples with apples so to speak
 

Crash_Nemesis

///Member
Ha ha...

She's just done over 700km thus far... running nicely. Sounding loud and mean.

Peter phones me every second day to check on the car, and to make sure I remember that we are pretty much running human urine in the engine as oil at the moment and that I cannot go over 4000rpm until we change to proper fully synthetic 10w-60 oil. Ha ha.

Thank you Peter. Without your constant checkups and sage advice, I'd have forgotten I was meant to run the car in and have been tracking her already.

:fencelook:

Seriously though, can't wait to drive her properly. This running in phase really is a ballache.

Almost there...
 

Andy1GP

///Member
Chris if you're struggling to keep the revs down think of it this way. The urine is also lubricating the cams, valves, vanos and everything else in the oil system. So it will get chowd if you run it hard. Just let those rings bed in, get lekker lube and then you can play catch up on the fun part :)
 

andrewbuch

///Member
herr bmw said:
well i think a road trip to durban and back , accelerating and slowing down constantly to keep the engine moving through the rev range, and not just cruising, should sort this out:rollsmile:

Fixed


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