General.Massacre
///Member
Dax this looks amazing, great going so far and yu have a great project on your hands, this car is going to be unstoppable.
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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
BMW 135i 60 ROLL Build (THE MONSTER)
- Thread starter Dax
- Start date
Dax
Active member
Haha, that is from the previous build, its all run in and ready to rock
///M Individual
Well-known member
Wow really coming along nicely! Well done Dax!
osiris
///Member
Just found this thread now!, DAYAM, what a journey! Kudos to you for the perseverance after the cracked cylinders!
This is the most insane N54 build I have ever seen! Goals one day! Looking forward to the fitted motor outcome! I am sure you are excited beyond belief for that first start.
This is the most insane N54 build I have ever seen! Goals one day! Looking forward to the fitted motor outcome! I am sure you are excited beyond belief for that first start.
Dax
Active member
Quick update:
Motor in and looking good.
First start was great, Followed break in instructions of the CSS Team and all is set.
Should start to tune this week, busy figuring out PI + WMI + Flex Fuel tune.
Car is pulling too much vacuum and I have some ideas to get it right
still going to do some work around intakes and filters and then catch cans
I got my dials fitted (Will upgrade to AEM on day)
Motor in and looking good.
First start was great, Followed break in instructions of the CSS Team and all is set.
Should start to tune this week, busy figuring out PI + WMI + Flex Fuel tune.
Car is pulling too much vacuum and I have some ideas to get it right
still going to do some work around intakes and filters and then catch cans
I got my dials fitted (Will upgrade to AEM on day)
Looking brilliant
Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk
Dax
Active member
Some very bad news,
Motor did not last, we did not get to even tune, Cylinder 6 big end seized and all big ends show signs of damage, All other surfaces Mains & Cams are perfect.
I was driving and opened her up to over take +- 10 cars on a open road and when changing from 5th to 6th motor cut out, I luckily did not let the clutch out and just pulled over.
So as you all know the block was imported from the USA, crank was a brand new from BMW all bearings and seals, bolts were OEM from BMW.
Con Rods and oil pump were used from build one (Both were brand new and had done couple of thousand kilometers at the most)
From all the feedback and info received from local and international engine builders, Rod manufacturer, bolt manufacturer the consensus is this is an installation error.
The stretch, torque & angel settings used on rod bolts were for 7/16 x 1.6000" bolt, the rods have 3/8 x 1.6000" the builder insists the bolts were 7/16 because he had to use a 11mm socket (7/16 = 11.13mm) the problem is it is not the head size it is the thickness and length.
The torque is slightly more on the 7/16 and the min stretch of the 7/16 is the max of the 3/8
I consulted various specialist in the field of the rods, Bolts and bearings and they all gave similar feedback.
The company that I got the block from said the clearance claimed (0.05mm) by the builder is not possible on a brand new crank and oem bearings without honing rods or removing material off the crank. (This was not done)
I found plastic gauge on the mains (Not cleaned off) and that is also a no no on a build like this.
Guys I am gutted, this is a 60k F-up I have been advised to not use the crank if I want to achieve the power I am chasing, I have also been told to replace all rod bolts and check measure rods and replace if out of round (Number 6 must be replaced without question)
So in short only big ends are damaged, so it cannot be oil pump other wise the mains/ and cam Shrafts would show damage.
Incorrect stretch/torques settings used
No metal in filter, only in oil in sump
Oil used Motul 5W 40 V300
when we did the start up procedure we cranked the car without coils & Injectors connected until we had oil pressure on an external oil pressure gauge, after about 2 min of running the yellow oil level light came on, we switched of and put in another 1l when we drained we had 6.5l, car did not have oil cooler connected because we did not want break in oil in the cooler.
Builder is claiming this was the cause of the problem, he did not say anything at the time only once engine broke
we did two break in oil changes (specified by CSS for run in procedure, only a few pieces of dirt in.
some pics:
Number 6 Big end (Builder tried to remove with screw driver)
Main between and 6:
Rod Cap number 6:
Big ends 1 to 5
torque used:
comment on bolt size to me from builder
I am busy pricing parts I just don't know what to do once I have all parts🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Thanks
Motor did not last, we did not get to even tune, Cylinder 6 big end seized and all big ends show signs of damage, All other surfaces Mains & Cams are perfect.
I was driving and opened her up to over take +- 10 cars on a open road and when changing from 5th to 6th motor cut out, I luckily did not let the clutch out and just pulled over.
So as you all know the block was imported from the USA, crank was a brand new from BMW all bearings and seals, bolts were OEM from BMW.
Con Rods and oil pump were used from build one (Both were brand new and had done couple of thousand kilometers at the most)
From all the feedback and info received from local and international engine builders, Rod manufacturer, bolt manufacturer the consensus is this is an installation error.
The stretch, torque & angel settings used on rod bolts were for 7/16 x 1.6000" bolt, the rods have 3/8 x 1.6000" the builder insists the bolts were 7/16 because he had to use a 11mm socket (7/16 = 11.13mm) the problem is it is not the head size it is the thickness and length.
The torque is slightly more on the 7/16 and the min stretch of the 7/16 is the max of the 3/8
I consulted various specialist in the field of the rods, Bolts and bearings and they all gave similar feedback.
The company that I got the block from said the clearance claimed (0.05mm) by the builder is not possible on a brand new crank and oem bearings without honing rods or removing material off the crank. (This was not done)
I found plastic gauge on the mains (Not cleaned off) and that is also a no no on a build like this.
Guys I am gutted, this is a 60k F-up I have been advised to not use the crank if I want to achieve the power I am chasing, I have also been told to replace all rod bolts and check measure rods and replace if out of round (Number 6 must be replaced without question)
So in short only big ends are damaged, so it cannot be oil pump other wise the mains/ and cam Shrafts would show damage.
Incorrect stretch/torques settings used
No metal in filter, only in oil in sump
Oil used Motul 5W 40 V300
when we did the start up procedure we cranked the car without coils & Injectors connected until we had oil pressure on an external oil pressure gauge, after about 2 min of running the yellow oil level light came on, we switched of and put in another 1l when we drained we had 6.5l, car did not have oil cooler connected because we did not want break in oil in the cooler.
Builder is claiming this was the cause of the problem, he did not say anything at the time only once engine broke
we did two break in oil changes (specified by CSS for run in procedure, only a few pieces of dirt in.
some pics:
Number 6 Big end (Builder tried to remove with screw driver)
Main between and 6:
Rod Cap number 6:
Big ends 1 to 5
torque used:
comment on bolt size to me from builder
I am busy pricing parts I just don't know what to do once I have all parts🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Thanks
Last edited:
jayaynikkal
Member
Yoh! This is heart-breaking
///M Individual
Well-known member
I am so sorry to read this Dax.
It is especially disheartening when you make sure you buy only the best quality parts and this happens.
It is especially disheartening when you make sure you buy only the best quality parts and this happens.
