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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
Witch getting stripped and fixed
- Thread starter Thunder
- Start date
Solo Man
Well-known member
Hi Thunder, all i can say is that i also had the head off on a friend's 316i after it had overheated a few times and eventually found that the head had cracked in two places. Phoning around i got prices for a secondhand head of R3000 and R5500 for recon head. Decided against it and had the existing head welded and reconned with new valves, guides, seals, skim, pressure tested, etc. Worked out to R4700. That included the decoke set. In the end the cost was just about R8k which includes two trips to Cape Town, anit freeze, oil and filter, thermostat, new radiator, and some other odds and ends, etc. The water pump was replaced recently and i have also recently replaced the plastic elbow at the back of the head as well as the plastic water pipe below the inlet manifold. Was considering replacing the rings but the car drove very nicely with no smoking at all just before i opened it up. I am now sorry that i did not go for a complete 318iS motor as i see they are advertised for about R7k - R8k. Am just not sure if it will be compatable with 316i wiring /gearbox/propshaft/exhaust, but am sure some one on the forum will be able to assist with that info. At this moment the car is going nicely and trust that it will continue doing so for another 200k km's at least! As mentioned before, if you do keep the 316i motor, REPLACE the plastic pipes as mentioned at the back of the head as well as under the inlet manifold with BMW parts and do it now before fitting the head. Also, check to see if the opening where the bend fits at the back of the head is not corroded as i had problems getting it to seal after i had fitted the head. Actually very easy motor to work on!
Thunder,
Best bet is to pull the motor, will make your life a lot easier - I have an engine lift...PM me, when you could manage to do it, If you got all the necessary tools to pull it out, i can pop past one night and we can pull it out for you...Do you have an engine stand? Best to invest in one if you can - can source it from Adendorf tools, for 400-500 or so, check out www.tooltime.co.za for pricing of the tools at Adendorf.
I hope it helps.
Thunder,
Best bet is to pull the motor, will make your life a lot easier - I have an engine lift...PM me, when you could manage to do it, If you got all the necessary tools to pull it out, i can pop past one night and we can pull it out for you...Do you have an engine stand? Best to invest in one if you can - can source it from Adendorf tools, for 400-500 or so, check out www.tooltime.co.za for pricing of the tools at Adendorf.
I hope it helps.
Best bet is to pull the motor, will make your life a lot easier - I have an engine lift...PM me, when you could manage to do it, If you got all the necessary tools to pull it out, i can pop past one night and we can pull it out for you...Do you have an engine stand? Best to invest in one if you can - can source it from Adendorf tools, for 400-500 or so, check out www.tooltime.co.za for pricing of the tools at Adendorf.
I hope it helps.
Thunder,
Best bet is to pull the motor, will make your life a lot easier - I have an engine lift...PM me, when you could manage to do it, If you got all the necessary tools to pull it out, i can pop past one night and we can pull it out for you...Do you have an engine stand? Best to invest in one if you can - can source it from Adendorf tools, for 400-500 or so, check out www.tooltime.co.za for pricing of the tools at Adendorf.
I hope it helps.
Thunder
///Member
JayDrft said:
Thanx. Would appreciate the help
I'll have to read the hayens manual to make sure I have all the necessary tools.
What do you guys think of this stand?
Will it work?
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Where would I be able to get the pipe that runs from the powersteering reservoir to the pump? Mine has perished just under the reservoir.
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That Engine stand will hold 2 of your motors on it....it can work.
To pull the motor out, all you would need are the sockets needed to loosen the box off the engine. The nuts on mountings...and thats generally about it - I am sure you have the rights sockets to remove those funny looking bolts, a general tool set with the usual sizes, and a socket set. Confirm what you got and I will bring through what I think you would need to pull that motor. It shouldnt take longer than an hour...you have stripped off quite a bit already, so even less than an hour.
Like I said, PM me and we can arrange something. Before you know it, you will have your motor out...Will give you a chance to check everything, clean and paint what needs to be.
To pull the motor out, all you would need are the sockets needed to loosen the box off the engine. The nuts on mountings...and thats generally about it - I am sure you have the rights sockets to remove those funny looking bolts, a general tool set with the usual sizes, and a socket set. Confirm what you got and I will bring through what I think you would need to pull that motor. It shouldnt take longer than an hour...you have stripped off quite a bit already, so even less than an hour.
Like I said, PM me and we can arrange something. Before you know it, you will have your motor out...Will give you a chance to check everything, clean and paint what needs to be.
Thunder
///Member
JayDrft said:
Thanx.
Will go have a look at the stand sometime this week and will strip some more of so to make the whole removal a bit easier, lije the radiator, bumper, grills, cradle and so on.
Will pm you as soon as I got the stand and have parts off and our of the way.
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Thunder
///Member
So dis some more work quick before I get some sleep for nightshift.
Bumper, radiator, grill trim, and barrs that holds bumper removed and aircon gas has been let out, will remove the cradle and aircon radiator next so the motor can come out straight forward.
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Bumper, radiator, grill trim, and barrs that holds bumper removed and aircon gas has been let out, will remove the cradle and aircon radiator next so the motor can come out straight forward.
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andrewbuch
///Member
Seeing as you got it all stripped anyway, I think you should throw a turbo at it
Thunder
///Member
So want to do some more stripping. Just have a few questions.
Nr 1. How do I remove the upper part of the craddle? (Did remove the bolts in the fender line and the bolts holding the bumper mounts)
Nr 2. What is the procedure on removing the powersteering reservoir and pump?
Nr 3. Is there a specific way of removing the aircon pump?
And nr 4. What else would I have to remove to make the removal of the motor abd gearbox easier?
Sent from my GT-I9300
Nr 1. How do I remove the upper part of the craddle? (Did remove the bolts in the fender line and the bolts holding the bumper mounts)
Nr 2. What is the procedure on removing the powersteering reservoir and pump?
Nr 3. Is there a specific way of removing the aircon pump?
And nr 4. What else would I have to remove to make the removal of the motor abd gearbox easier?
Sent from my GT-I9300
Ralf*
///Member
Thunder said:
I don't know what your valve's look like, the last time I removed/replaced valves was a 1972 Mercedes 230/6, and what was needed was a valve spring depressing tool, for which we used a drill press, suitable sized socket and long nose pliers to remove the "cotter's".
If it is the same, then you are welcome to bring it to the shop, we have a drill press, as well as a dedicated hydraulic compression tool (we use for suspension bushes etc)
Crash_Nemesis
///Member
Whatever you do Thunder, do not try compress the springs by hand or use some kind of homemade tool to compress the spring, you WILL break the cotters.
Sarel at 8 Valve performance did this with my M3 head and broke four Single Groove cotters. They were high performance cotters from Vac Motorsports and he still broke them doing this. You need an hydrolic tool or air compressor that can push the spring down gently, allowing you to take the cotters and retainer off, and then slipping the Valve out.
Hope this helps.
Sarel at 8 Valve performance did this with my M3 head and broke four Single Groove cotters. They were high performance cotters from Vac Motorsports and he still broke them doing this. You need an hydrolic tool or air compressor that can push the spring down gently, allowing you to take the cotters and retainer off, and then slipping the Valve out.
Hope this helps.
Ralf*
///Member
Thunder said:
thats why you need some form of control, to gradually and evenly compress the springs until the cotters are exposed and can be gingerly removed.
A hydraulic press or a drill press where you can evenly apply "controlled" pressure on the valve springs is what you need
Crash_Nemesis
///Member
Remove the cams, Slide the Rockers to the side, and you can use a compressed air tool or some kind of hydrolic system than can force the valve springs down, but controlled and gently.
OR --- do what I did, and take the head, with the cams out, to JCB engine rebuilders. After Sarel from 8 Valve fucked my cotters up doing his stupid little install job, I took the head to JCB, and they quickly removed the cotters, valve springs, retainers and valves for me. CHEAP CHEAP.
I was there for 20 minutes if I recall.
Tel. 011 452 2113
Their address is 7 Imvubu Rd, Sebenza, Edenvale.
Seriously cheap. No jokes. Just explain you want to remove the valves. They're pretty cool guys. You're in and out, not booking anything in.
I didn't even call, I just arrived with my S54 head, said take the valves out, and walla, done.
OR --- do what I did, and take the head, with the cams out, to JCB engine rebuilders. After Sarel from 8 Valve fucked my cotters up doing his stupid little install job, I took the head to JCB, and they quickly removed the cotters, valve springs, retainers and valves for me. CHEAP CHEAP.
I was there for 20 minutes if I recall.
Tel. 011 452 2113
Their address is 7 Imvubu Rd, Sebenza, Edenvale.
Seriously cheap. No jokes. Just explain you want to remove the valves. They're pretty cool guys. You're in and out, not booking anything in.
I didn't even call, I just arrived with my S54 head, said take the valves out, and walla, done.
