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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
Witch getting stripped and fixed
- Thread starter Thunder
- Start date
Sabretooth tiger
///Member
while you rebuilding, how about some low compression pistons? :idea:
Gizmo
Banned
This should be done in no time, the M40 and M43 are some of the easiest BMW motors to work on. No vanos or VVTI bullshit to worry about.
I personally would dump the M43 and fit the 16valve M42 in its place, your M43 wiring harness and ECU will run a M42 motor. These M42's can be had for R5k-R6k and you have lots of headroom for future modifications like what I did to my one, 2044cc stroker motor!
I personally would dump the M43 and fit the 16valve M42 in its place, your M43 wiring harness and ECU will run a M42 motor. These M42's can be had for R5k-R6k and you have lots of headroom for future modifications like what I did to my one, 2044cc stroker motor!
zaleonardz
Well-known member
Bruce,
If you need a hand, just shout.
Big ups for taking this one on.
Its not a very complicated motor at all, but some minor ramblings from my side, on a few items, stuff I wish I knew on my first couple of jobs like this.
Cams and heads can warp/break if you remove them incorrectly.
Always go from the outter edges inwards, criss cross on those two items.
Else if you release the tension on the right hand side completely, and not the left, you will warp/bend head and cam.
Are you going to pull the motor to do the sump/cleaning properly.
It is a flippen biatch to get to the sump/other stuff while its still in the car.
If you are going to pull the motor, may I suggest that you just disconnect water pipes, remove the exhaust, remove the gearbox, and leave the motor intact.
Your lifting points for the motor are actually on the head, so if you remove the head, its just so much more difficualt to remove the engine.
Why don't you run your plan past us, as to what exactly you want to do, so that we can give you some more guidance..
Oh and you don't need really fancy tools to pull the motor,
Adendorff does an engine stand for under R500, and its an investment.
You also do not need an engine crane to pull it out.
If you have roof trusses in your garage, you can just buy a block and tackle from adendorff as well.
I picked up a 2 ton one on the bargain stand at addendorff which was scratched for like R200.
Also another industry secret, most of these engine parts can be bought from Alert Engine spares, they are a major importer of engine parts such as gasket sets, valves, bearings ect, most aftermarket spares shops will buy from Alert, put a markup on it, and call it a day.
We are all here to help, give a shout.
Oh, and budget for a water pump and a thermostat while your in there...
If you need a hand, just shout.
Big ups for taking this one on.
Its not a very complicated motor at all, but some minor ramblings from my side, on a few items, stuff I wish I knew on my first couple of jobs like this.
Cams and heads can warp/break if you remove them incorrectly.
Always go from the outter edges inwards, criss cross on those two items.
Else if you release the tension on the right hand side completely, and not the left, you will warp/bend head and cam.
Are you going to pull the motor to do the sump/cleaning properly.
It is a flippen biatch to get to the sump/other stuff while its still in the car.
If you are going to pull the motor, may I suggest that you just disconnect water pipes, remove the exhaust, remove the gearbox, and leave the motor intact.
Your lifting points for the motor are actually on the head, so if you remove the head, its just so much more difficualt to remove the engine.
Why don't you run your plan past us, as to what exactly you want to do, so that we can give you some more guidance..
Oh and you don't need really fancy tools to pull the motor,
Adendorff does an engine stand for under R500, and its an investment.
You also do not need an engine crane to pull it out.
If you have roof trusses in your garage, you can just buy a block and tackle from adendorff as well.
I picked up a 2 ton one on the bargain stand at addendorff which was scratched for like R200.
Also another industry secret, most of these engine parts can be bought from Alert Engine spares, they are a major importer of engine parts such as gasket sets, valves, bearings ect, most aftermarket spares shops will buy from Alert, put a markup on it, and call it a day.
We are all here to help, give a shout.
Oh, and budget for a water pump and a thermostat while your in there...
Thunder
///Member
zaleonardz@DentDocVPS said:
Thanx for the advice LZ.
Will give shouts if I really get stuck. Not in any hurry as I have some wheels to work and back.
As for my plan is
A: get the head of to see the damage on the piston and cylinder due to the part that fell in.
B: Do a propper clean of all parts as this is the first time this motor has been opened up in 300k kilos.
I honestly dont really want to pull the whole motor but will see when I get the cylinders and pistons open as I got a lot of oil on nr 3 and 4 spark plugs and would also maybe have to get the whole head preasure tested to find the water leak.
Where I might need some advice is to get the aircon clutch pulley working again and a place to get the powersteering hose remade.
And as far as stripping goes I'm taking it very slow. Making sure of everything before I take something off.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Gizmo said:
I can see 2 wires on the starter but havent looked behind thw alternator yet. Will have a loom. Thanx.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
:rollsmile: easy with fanatics around...
Thunder
///Member
Morning guys, so no extra work as been don yet.
Just a question for LZ, if I decide to pull the motor I would like to bring the car around to you for some repairs, found a bit of rust on the one strut in the engine bay, front bumper chipped, side skirt colour coding, and some dents and marks on the car. Might also remove all the wrapp and get the paint underneath fixed up. Maybe you can come around and give me an estimate so I can know how much to get together for this.
Sent from my GT-P6200 using Tapatalk 2
Just a question for LZ, if I decide to pull the motor I would like to bring the car around to you for some repairs, found a bit of rust on the one strut in the engine bay, front bumper chipped, side skirt colour coding, and some dents and marks on the car. Might also remove all the wrapp and get the paint underneath fixed up. Maybe you can come around and give me an estimate so I can know how much to get together for this.
Sent from my GT-P6200 using Tapatalk 2
zaleonardz
Well-known member
Remove the wrap, and I will pop out.
Fixing up an engine bay is MUCH easier with motor out, I actually refuse to touch up an engine bay with the motor in, for fear of overspray ect.
\
Fixing up an engine bay is MUCH easier with motor out, I actually refuse to touch up an engine bay with the motor in, for fear of overspray ect.
\
Hey,
Nice job at tackling this project Thunder.
U mentioned that its the first time this motor has been opened in 300k....Dont be suprised to open her up and find factory honing marks in the bores....I found this on my m40 after it had 270k+ on it, sold it at just over 340k.
I would go with what Lz has said, remove the motor completely...that way, you can inspect everything properly, give it all a good clean and inspect again...
I know the guys have given advice, but they havent given you the most important yet...Budget for your oil pump, most important part in your whole build.
Good luck and give us a shout if you need help or tools.
Subscribed!
Nice job at tackling this project Thunder.
U mentioned that its the first time this motor has been opened in 300k....Dont be suprised to open her up and find factory honing marks in the bores....I found this on my m40 after it had 270k+ on it, sold it at just over 340k.
I would go with what Lz has said, remove the motor completely...that way, you can inspect everything properly, give it all a good clean and inspect again...
I know the guys have given advice, but they havent given you the most important yet...Budget for your oil pump, most important part in your whole build.
Good luck and give us a shout if you need help or tools.
Subscribed!
Thunder
///Member
Just a question for you guys.
Would it be easier to remove the head if I remove the whole timing chain?
Reason I ask is the hayens manual describes it that I only need to remove the top part from the crank.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Also I would like to get a list of part and accessories together to make sure I get everything that needs replacing.
1. Oil
2. Oil filter
3. Petrol filter (possibly?)
4. All gaskets (total, and where?)
5. Oil pump
6. Water pump
7. Thermostat?
8. Alternator clutch (where can I get this fixed)
9. Powersteering pipe from reservoir (where can I get it fixed or replaced?)
10. Pistons? (Depending on damage)
11. Valves? (Depending on damage)
12. Piston rings?
Then also what would you guys suggest to use to clean once the everything is out and stripped before I refit.
Also any advice on stripping the head once its out to check all the valves?
Thanx guys.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Would it be easier to remove the head if I remove the whole timing chain?
Reason I ask is the hayens manual describes it that I only need to remove the top part from the crank.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Also I would like to get a list of part and accessories together to make sure I get everything that needs replacing.
1. Oil
2. Oil filter
3. Petrol filter (possibly?)
4. All gaskets (total, and where?)
5. Oil pump
6. Water pump
7. Thermostat?
8. Alternator clutch (where can I get this fixed)
9. Powersteering pipe from reservoir (where can I get it fixed or replaced?)
10. Pistons? (Depending on damage)
11. Valves? (Depending on damage)
12. Piston rings?
Then also what would you guys suggest to use to clean once the everything is out and stripped before I refit.
Also any advice on stripping the head once its out to check all the valves?
Thanx guys.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
You need tools to strip valves.
Valve spring compressor.
Maybe a R6000 motor will do as suggested by Gizmo as you are likely to spend more than that on parts and engineering.
Head job is roughly R2000
Gaskets R2000
W/Pump R600
T/tat R200
Oil Pump R800
Pistons+ bearings +-R3000
Do not rush it and buy nothing before you know what you are dealing with.
Maybe food for thought?
Valve spring compressor.
Maybe a R6000 motor will do as suggested by Gizmo as you are likely to spend more than that on parts and engineering.
Head job is roughly R2000
Gaskets R2000
W/Pump R600
T/tat R200
Oil Pump R800
Pistons+ bearings +-R3000
Do not rush it and buy nothing before you know what you are dealing with.
Maybe food for thought?
As A1ex suggested,
Weigh up your options. If the M42 fits....go for it...specially if your current setup will run it.
Your approach is correct, however - what Alex has suggested is the better option in my opinion.
the only real headach you might have there is registering the motor to chassis, but a piece of cake if you got all the right paperwork.
Weigh up your options. If the M42 fits....go for it...specially if your current setup will run it.
Your approach is correct, however - what Alex has suggested is the better option in my opinion.
the only real headach you might have there is registering the motor to chassis, but a piece of cake if you got all the right paperwork.
racing snake
New member
:thumbs:
good going bro!
glad you decided to keep her after all...
dont be shy if you need advice
good going bro!
glad you decided to keep her after all...
dont be shy if you need advice
