Witch getting stripped and fixed

Thunder

///Member
so a quick update, havent really gotten to strip it further yet but do want to get the head cleaned before I get the valves and so removed.

What would be best to clean it up, seeing as I just moved it the other day for the pictures of the valves and there was still oil and water in it.
 

Crash_Nemesis

///Member
I would ask Lysis or A1exander what they use. I've seen them clean engines before and man, they come out spotless... Probably some petrol.
 

JayDrft

Member
Hey Thunder,

My Father uses a combination of Prepsol and paraffin....works like a charm....

1 part paraffin to 2 parts prepsol....
 

Thunder

///Member
So worked on her a little yesterday. Got most disconnected to get motor able to be removed. Took the alternator off and removed the last piping to the aircon pump.

Stripped the head as well all that is still left is the valves which I'll maybe get some help with from Ralph or get removed once the gear gets skimmed.

I do have one question though. What is the point of the gasket on the inside of the head cover?
Here's a photo to show what I'm talking about.

4u3u4ase.jpg


Did clean her up a bit. Not sparkling yet as all I used was a multi purpose kitchen cleaner and a kitchen scrub sponge.

Wil update again once motor is removed.

Sent from my GT-I9300
 

Thunder

///Member
So just a small update.

Busy cleaning the engine bit by bit but it is really packed on and not as easy to clean with just normal engine cleaner and hard brushes.Might be trying some warm water and degreaser so as to try and get it a bit more loose.:rollsmile:

Plans are to get the motor out tonight with the help of a fellow fanatic.
Then its striping cleaning and checking all the pistons and rings and bearings as well as check all seals on the gearbox.

Will update again soon. :thumbs:
 

Thunder

///Member
I must say cleaning the head and head cover is a real bitch.

Tried with a normal kitchen scrub sponge and multi purpose cleaner and made a very small difference.
Yesterday I used engine cleaner and a steel brush toothbrush thing and then rinsed it off with clean water got a bit more off but not everything.
Then just went at it again sprayed the engine cleaner on left it for 5 to 10 minutes and then poured some kettle boiled water on, gave it another scrub with the brush thingy and it is getting there. Not really all that clean yet but getting there.

Will post some pics later tonight of the cleaning and the motor removal.

Sent from my GT-I9300
 

323i e46

///Member
getting there...
I've seen guys using prepsol and paraffin to clean their engines, I guess its more physical 90% than tactical/chemical 10% .
 
D

Dippies

Guest
Keep going bruce. In the end all will be worth it and you will know that engine inside out.

Told you some elbow grease will do the trick just not stated how much elbow you need to put into it.

You doing a good job.
 

Thunder

///Member
So a quick update.

Thanx to the help of JayDrift the motor is out. We took the whole motor, gearbox and propshaft out.

Will start stripping that next week. Will post up some pics tomorrow morning.

Thanx for the help Jason. Hope your drifter gets done soon.

Sent from my GT-I9300
 

RAArmstrong

///Member
:bravo: Glad you got it out, now you can finally get to see the extent of the damage and get the Witch back on the road :joy:
 

Thunder

///Member
herr bmw said:
glad to hear bruce,once again sorry i couldnt make it tonight,finally got home just before 9

No stress Colin. I understand.


As for damage I expect it to be minimal as the sleeves on the pistons are still clean and smooth, like Jason said it is possible lê that the part of the debris went in from the I take and out the exhaust manifold thats why we couldn't find it. As for the compression drop on cylinder 3 we suspect the head gasket blew, but no explanation on the damage on the head and 0iston nr 2 and 3.

Sent from my GT-I9300
 

Thunder

///Member
Here are the photos as promised.

Firstly the head cover and head after some cleaning, not perfect yet but getting there.












Before the motor was out I took some close ups on the found rust, looks like it has spread forward as well.






And finally the whole motor is out excluding the powersteering pump, the complete exhaust is loose and down, we removed the gearbox and propshaft as well. I will be getting the propshaft of the gearbox and put it back in place so it can just be bolted back once the gearbox and motor goes back in.









On just a quick analysis I think the damage might be minimal except for the rust found, (And if the motor never broke down I would probably not have noticed it till it was to late.)

So far most damage is probably the
  1. Pistons that I would like to replace(even though I`ve been told multiple times that I can probably still use them)
  2. Need to get the head skimmed, valves I would like to get checked while they are out.
  3. I need to get a new secondary throttle valve for the intake.
  4. Get the power steering pipes from the reservoir to the pump replaced.
  5. Get the aircon clutch checked out and replaced
  6. check all the seals on the gearbox
  7. Then while I`m working I want to do the viscus fan delete,(even though I haven`t had any problems with it.)
  8. And then of course all the gaskets(Except for the one between the intake and the head thank you Francoisj on the forum)
  9. And then prob some small stuff like flanges and connectors and so.

Thanx for reading, and for all the inputs from everyone.
 

Thunder

///Member
So its been a while from the last update.

Had a few hassles with breaking socket ratchets and extensions.

Bought a new power bar only to get home and find out it is to small for the sockets. :fencelook:, bought a new one and after coming home from my few days away last night I started working again and today a little bit.

Firstly a few pictures of the paint damage I found around on the body that I would like to get repaired when the engine bay rust is getting sorted.

1. Bonet needs a respray after wrap is removed.
2. Boot lid I need to get the wrap of, it needs to be resprayed and holes of previous spoiler filled up correctly, and spoiler needs to be put back.
3. Front bumper and the lip where the kidneys are in needs to be resprayed.
4. Either get the stock sideskirts resprayed to match properly or get some M3 ones and sprayed to match.
5. Mark on the front door that was there when I bought the car.

6. A bad mark and touch up on left rear fender at the bumper done by one of the previous owners.

7. Mark with some rust on left of rear window pillar.

8. Mark on front passenger door

9. Dent on left rear fender infront of rear wheel.


And some chips and scratches over the body(some was there when I bought the car and some got put there by jealous and spiteful people)


Here are some pictures of the motor.

1. Got the gearbox of the block itself.


2. Close up on piston nr 1


3. Close up on piston nr 2


4. Close up on piston nr 3


5. Close up on piston nr 4


6. All four pistons from top of piston


7. All four pistons from and angle


8. Block with pistons removed


9. And finally I was astonished to see this in a motor that has 300k kilos on the clock.



And just a recap of what I found must be done to get motor running again.
1. Pistons that I would like to replace(even though I`ve been told multiple times that I can probably still use them)
2. Need to get the head skimmed, valves I would like to get checked while they are out.
3. Have to get the blocks inner piping for oil and coolant cleaned out.
4. I need to get a new secondary throttle valve for the intake.
5. Get the power steering pipes from the reservoir to the pump replaced.
6. Get the aircon clutch checked out and replaced
check all the seals on the gearbox
7. Then while I`m working I want to do the viscus fan delete,(even though I haven`t had any problems with it.)
8. And then of course all the gaskets(Except for the one between the intake and the head thank you Francoisj on the forum)
9. And then prob some small stuff like flanges, pipes and connectors etc.
10. Passenger window to get moving fully up and down(not bit by bit)


The order I need to go as to get thecar running again.
1. Get it to a panel beater to get all paint and rust fixed.
2. Get the motor fixed part by part.
3. Put the motor back together and make sure everything is in place like it should be.
4. Get the gearbox seals and everything replaced and attach it back onto the motor.
5. And finally get the motor back in the car and get it started. :rollsmile:


Thank you all for reading once again.

I know this is a very slow build but I am doing it all myself and as I get time and funds.

Will update again once some new work has been done.
 

Peter@AEW

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
To overhaul that motor with engineering and your labour will be more money than a motor from Japan auto.

I invite you to consider it carefully.

Pistons look like they have blow by and 3 is very wet on the crown.

A re sleeve and standard rings will be in the order of R3000
Gasket set roughly R2000

The propshaft will need to be re balanced unless you marked it before splitting it.

If you are bent on getting the components clean use ZEB OVEN CLEANER and a toothbrush.

Using general purpose kitchen cleaners is a futile exercise.

Buy yourself some PREPSOL as well it is roughly R134 per 5 liters.
Use it in a large container and recycle it untill it has lost all its cleaning properties.

Most times the correct tool does the work cost effectively even though it may first appear to be expensive.

Good luck.
 

Thunder

///Member
a1exander said:
To overhaul that motor with engineering and your labour will be more money than a motor from Japan auto.

I invite you to consider it carefully.

Pistons look like they have blow by and 3 is very wet on the crown.

A re sleeve and standard rings will be in the order of R3000
Gasket set roughly R2000

The propshaft will need to be re balanced unless you marked it before splitting it.

If you are bent on getting the components clean use ZEB OVEN CLEANER and a toothbrush.

Using general purpose kitchen cleaners is a futile exercise.

Buy yourself some PREPSOL as well it is roughly R134 per 5 liters.
Use it in a large container and recycle it untill it has lost all its cleaning properties.

Most times the correct tool does the work cost effectively even though it may first appear to be expensive.

Good luck.

What exactly do you mean by balancing the propshaft? Doesnt it just slide back into place?

I am considering all options and taking it one step at a time.
 

Andy1GP

///Member
Bruce what Peter is saying is that removing things carefully is more important than installing things carefully. If you marked the exact locations of where the propshaft came off then it should be ok to reinstall. There are tolerances on locating the bolts and centre bearing etc.

Also considering what has been said with respect to the blowby, it will be more cost efficient to buy another motor and go from there. That way you will have lots of spares on top of saving initial capital outlay (fixing)

Hats off for tackling this out of your own, this is no easy task and you will learn love and enjoy your car so much more for it. Just hang in there. You will see light at the end of the tunnel! :thumbs: Respect for getting this far.
 
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