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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
Restoration: e34 M5 (metallic dolphin)
- Thread starter Adi
- Start date
Adi
///Member
have thought of replacing, as they are the same as other e34 doors.....only part would bug me is the strip all the window components and transfer, after the door has been colour matched, would need to do the insides as well, otherwise will look horrible if you take panels of and you have 4 different coloured doors on the inside.
Adi
///Member
will advise on doors.....got all the clips from BMW today, dealer had not enough had to [email protected] dealers were cheapest, and they are still lasting better then the pirate ones, just started glueing the brackets onto the door, have 6 to do, 2 at a time with 30 min break for drying in between.
Adi
///Member
ok, back lights out some need replacing, why why why use superglue to put a bulb into place?
checked at scrapyard doors are dime a dozen, and freely available, need to negotiate price.
Bought a set of rear lights in Germany, they are yellow, bought them for the inner lights at just over R100 for the set a bargain......
Will post some pics tonight........have got all door items for teh back doors together.......managed to get the window channels.......
checked at scrapyard doors are dime a dozen, and freely available, need to negotiate price.
Bought a set of rear lights in Germany, they are yellow, bought them for the inner lights at just over R100 for the set a bargain......
Will post some pics tonight........have got all door items for teh back doors together.......managed to get the window channels.......
Adi
///Member
Ok, think on the doors they will need to be replaced........
Now another question, taking the car apart, it is clear it has been resprayed before, and not very good, no care was taken to strip down the car. Overspray on a few parts, and specifically on the clips that for example hold the indicator, they have been sprayed over, that will need to be sanded down.......
Now for the experts, how much nicer is the finish if I strip it down to the metal? And then start again?
Now another question, taking the car apart, it is clear it has been resprayed before, and not very good, no care was taken to strip down the car. Overspray on a few parts, and specifically on the clips that for example hold the indicator, they have been sprayed over, that will need to be sanded down.......
Now for the experts, how much nicer is the finish if I strip it down to the metal? And then start again?
Adi
///Member
The parcel shelf is R1300 so not too bad.....
here is another question, for the clever people, and engineers.
Busy on the rear bumper, there are several spots on the bumper where there are two metal plates touching and held together by bolts.
As can be seen from the rear bumper shock:
Would it make sense to but a gasket like rubber between the shock and bumper mounting, and between the shock and the body?
What is better against rust, metal on metal, or metal, rubber gasket and then metal?
here is another question, for the clever people, and engineers.
Busy on the rear bumper, there are several spots on the bumper where there are two metal plates touching and held together by bolts.
As can be seen from the rear bumper shock:
Would it make sense to but a gasket like rubber between the shock and bumper mounting, and between the shock and the body?
What is better against rust, metal on metal, or metal, rubber gasket and then metal?
Luis Malhou
///Member
Adi.. some good advice don't sand a car down to bare metal unless absolutely necessary. The special undercoats when the car was sprayed at factory are good quality binding well to the metal. A good flat all over and repairs where needed, like rust dings and so forth. Good quality undercoat and base and clear. If done correctly will last lifetime. Sanding down to bare metal only invites problems.
If the car is fully stripped down even better, allows the painter to get into areas that are normally hidden, don't get washed, so the finish will be close to factory. I know you mentioned you didn't want to pull the motor out, a lot of work but it would wise to do it since you going to so much trouble already and I know your German self.. You want perfection!!
The sweat will be worth it..
:idea:I know a good workshop and mechanic that will help... P.C.:joy:
If the car is fully stripped down even better, allows the painter to get into areas that are normally hidden, don't get washed, so the finish will be close to factory. I know you mentioned you didn't want to pull the motor out, a lot of work but it would wise to do it since you going to so much trouble already and I know your German self.. You want perfection!!
The sweat will be worth it..
:idea:I know a good workshop and mechanic that will help... P.C.:joy:
Adi
///Member
ok, two things....:
anybody know how I get the beackseat upper portion out?
And switches and the lights inside....have tried, 5V and 12V lights do not come on, tried 3 switches what are the chances they are all broken?
some more stuff from the stripping:
and rebuilding:
before and after
those lights 5v? 12v?
anybody know how I get the beackseat upper portion out?
And switches and the lights inside....have tried, 5V and 12V lights do not come on, tried 3 switches what are the chances they are all broken?
some more stuff from the stripping:
and rebuilding:
before and after
those lights 5v? 12v?
Your restore and what you are facing is almost identical to what I had to do!
To remove the rear seat back, the E34 is the worst of them all
1) remove headrests
2) The seat part of the headrest bracket is removed by taking a coin, inserting it into the fastner slot and turning each one 90 degrees.
3) By each seat belt catch (bottom is a 10mm plastic nut, as well as two behind the centre armrest. remove these.
4) Remove the C pillar panels (pull inwards)
5) Finally you can lift the rear seat upwards and out, it has three steel hooks at the top
To remove the rear seat back, the E34 is the worst of them all
1) remove headrests
2) The seat part of the headrest bracket is removed by taking a coin, inserting it into the fastner slot and turning each one 90 degrees.
3) By each seat belt catch (bottom is a 10mm plastic nut, as well as two behind the centre armrest. remove these.
4) Remove the C pillar panels (pull inwards)
5) Finally you can lift the rear seat upwards and out, it has three steel hooks at the top
