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Replacing my 320d Turbo (Garret GT1749V)
- Thread starter Hellas
- Start date
Hellas
///Member
Update: Did a cleaning and a half today. Rinsed the intake manifold with petrol and washed with Kleen Green afterwards. If you have half a Saturday to kill, here's a messy one for you... :banghead: Also rinsed the intercooler radiator and EGR with some petrol.
I have not deleted the EGR as yet as I am still looking for an appropriate kit, but alternatively Bossman did a EGR castration and I'm onto the details of something similar. This entails keeping the EGR body, but stripping out the insides.
I removed the blades from the swirl flaps and popped the spindles back in and assembled the entire intake manifold, vacuum hoses and electrics. Also replaced crank breather valve with a new unit. Service procedures indicate that this unit needs to be replaced at every 3rd oil service. I cannot recall this ever being done by BMW, so further investigation might lead me into another battle with BMW re the link between the breather valve and turbo failure...
All that is left now is the pop the turbo back in and it's plumbing through the intercooler up to the EGR.
Then for an oil service. Got a new air, fuel and oil filter and picked up oil from Midas as per BMW's recommendation. Castrol Edge 5W40 (pls don't flame...). The list price was R380 for 5 liters, but the tag showed R200, so they had to give it to me for R200 and I took 3 x 5 liters
Lastly I took the cat that I decatted earlier to Speedy to ask them to weld the two seams back together and they wanted R228 for one cat's work. Took in home, fine tuned my welder and did a weld that will make even Bosal jealous. Saving money by DIY is definitely the name of the game!
I'll be away for two weeks, so the soonest I can get to the service would be first weekend in Sept. Will post updates then. :thumbsup:
I have not deleted the EGR as yet as I am still looking for an appropriate kit, but alternatively Bossman did a EGR castration and I'm onto the details of something similar. This entails keeping the EGR body, but stripping out the insides.
I removed the blades from the swirl flaps and popped the spindles back in and assembled the entire intake manifold, vacuum hoses and electrics. Also replaced crank breather valve with a new unit. Service procedures indicate that this unit needs to be replaced at every 3rd oil service. I cannot recall this ever being done by BMW, so further investigation might lead me into another battle with BMW re the link between the breather valve and turbo failure...
All that is left now is the pop the turbo back in and it's plumbing through the intercooler up to the EGR.
Then for an oil service. Got a new air, fuel and oil filter and picked up oil from Midas as per BMW's recommendation. Castrol Edge 5W40 (pls don't flame...). The list price was R380 for 5 liters, but the tag showed R200, so they had to give it to me for R200 and I took 3 x 5 liters
Lastly I took the cat that I decatted earlier to Speedy to ask them to weld the two seams back together and they wanted R228 for one cat's work. Took in home, fine tuned my welder and did a weld that will make even Bosal jealous. Saving money by DIY is definitely the name of the game!
I'll be away for two weeks, so the soonest I can get to the service would be first weekend in Sept. Will post updates then. :thumbsup:
shadow worrior
///Member
and all this time you thought that your turbo sounded funny when infact it WAS a BIRD :lmoa: :rofl:
Hellas
///Member
SHE STARTED!!! Talk about emotional moments. This was a big one since this was the furthest that I have ever taken any car apart and put it back together. Outstanding is only the belly plates and front bumper with it's tupperware.
On the downside, my battery is finished. I had to take the SUV's battery to start her, but all hope is not abandoned. The indicator dot on the battery is black, which means a good charge should do the trick. (A green dot indicates OK while a yellow dot means the battery is finish and klaar)
On the downside, my battery is finished. I had to take the SUV's battery to start her, but all hope is not abandoned. The indicator dot on the battery is black, which means a good charge should do the trick. (A green dot indicates OK while a yellow dot means the battery is finish and klaar)
Hellas
///Member
Went for a test drive and all seem ok, except I think there might be a boost lag. I can reach top speed, but boosting should be 1700 to 2000RPM. I've got somewhere between 2500-3000RPM. Not sure. Maybe it's been to long since I had a go in a decent car...
Don't want more troubles like MicB: http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=9620
Don't want more troubles like MicB: http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=9620
Hellas
///Member
Everything is up and running, the battery had a good charge and all is good...except I'm not too sure about the boosting of the turbo.
I thought that the turbo only boosted too late (3000rpm instead of the 1800-2200rpm range), but I couldn't say for sure.
The acceleration was too uniform throughout the rev range that I once thought the turbo was not boosting at all, but this morning I contemplated that the turbo boosts too soon. Is this at all possible? Cause if you step on it at 100km/h in 4th, there isn't much.
Advice?
I thought that the turbo only boosted too late (3000rpm instead of the 1800-2200rpm range), but I couldn't say for sure.
The acceleration was too uniform throughout the rev range that I once thought the turbo was not boosting at all, but this morning I contemplated that the turbo boosts too soon. Is this at all possible? Cause if you step on it at 100km/h in 4th, there isn't much.
Advice?
netercol
New member
if the vtn vanes are stuck in the closed position boost will start a little sooner than stock and peak very quickly, then the car will go into limp mode as the ecu cant keep boost under the max threshold.
if they are stuck in the open position, or not fully closing boost will start late and peak late.. might be you have a vacuum leak, actuator problem, or if you assembled the turbo yourself, maybe the vanes are stuck?
try the normal diagnostics first, is vacuum getting to the actuator ect, try unhooking the actuator arm and feel if the vane mech. moves freely by hand.
if they are stuck in the open position, or not fully closing boost will start late and peak late.. might be you have a vacuum leak, actuator problem, or if you assembled the turbo yourself, maybe the vanes are stuck?
try the normal diagnostics first, is vacuum getting to the actuator ect, try unhooking the actuator arm and feel if the vane mech. moves freely by hand.
Hellas
///Member
Will check if the actuator moves.
I only installed the turbo. It is the same unit that was in there.
It does not really boost from the word go, but it feels a lot sooner than 2000rpm. Like mentioned, it feels like I'm running out of steam after 3500rpm. Would limp mode throw a light, cause I don't have any of those. Furthermore, I could reach 200.
I only installed the turbo. It is the same unit that was in there.
It does not really boost from the word go, but it feels a lot sooner than 2000rpm. Like mentioned, it feels like I'm running out of steam after 3500rpm. Would limp mode throw a light, cause I don't have any of those. Furthermore, I could reach 200.
Clownshoe
Active member
Lecture mode:nono:
I am willing to bet that turbo failures can be avoided by following some simple steps. (this is with my rather agricultural 2.5Td in the Jeep, but holds for all turbos).
Start motor and wait for oil pressure to come up before pulling away. My jeep has oil pressure guage and it takes about 15 seconds. So start engine, faff about abit, then buckle up and pull away. This ensures that oil is going to the turbo.
Then switching off let the turbo cool off. This is especially important when you have been driving under boost. The turbo runs hot enough to cook oil that is left in the turbo when you stop. This cooked oil can block effective lubrication of the bearings. I cringe when I see turbo diesels pull up at the big national highway onestops. Big SUV pulling a big boat at 140km/h, on the brakes, pulls straightup to the pump and then turns the engine straight off:shocked:
By following these rules your turbo should last as long as the engine.
Oh, and airfilters should be in tip top condition.
I am willing to bet that turbo failures can be avoided by following some simple steps. (this is with my rather agricultural 2.5Td in the Jeep, but holds for all turbos).
Start motor and wait for oil pressure to come up before pulling away. My jeep has oil pressure guage and it takes about 15 seconds. So start engine, faff about abit, then buckle up and pull away. This ensures that oil is going to the turbo.
Then switching off let the turbo cool off. This is especially important when you have been driving under boost. The turbo runs hot enough to cook oil that is left in the turbo when you stop. This cooked oil can block effective lubrication of the bearings. I cringe when I see turbo diesels pull up at the big national highway onestops. Big SUV pulling a big boat at 140km/h, on the brakes, pulls straightup to the pump and then turns the engine straight off:shocked:
By following these rules your turbo should last as long as the engine.
Oh, and airfilters should be in tip top condition.
Hellas
///Member
My turbo failure would be caused by the faulty 'old' type crank breather valve. Had I known that this should be a service item, I could have saved some.
My car was extensively used for long distance trips to CT and time and again did the petrol attendant ask me twice to turn off the vehicle. At one specific station, the attendants got rude cause of my unwillingness to turn off the car.
Looks like they recently got some flack for letting this happen. Wish somebody will tell them that a diesel is not so dangerous to have idling next to a pump...
My car was extensively used for long distance trips to CT and time and again did the petrol attendant ask me twice to turn off the vehicle. At one specific station, the attendants got rude cause of my unwillingness to turn off the car.
Looks like they recently got some flack for letting this happen. Wish somebody will tell them that a diesel is not so dangerous to have idling next to a pump...
Clownshoe
Active member
HELLAS said:
I slow up a km before before I pull in to a petrol station, and as its usually a smoke/ supply stop aswell I go to the parking lot first, then double back to the pumps. But I have a very old design and the newer designs are less suseptable to problems related to cooling the turbo down. I believe the new generation actually have a pre-start sequence that starts when you open the doors that a) primes the diesel pump, b) starts the glow plugs and c) sends oil to the turbo. i am not sure how true it is but that is how modern diesels start up straight away. The Jeep beeps at you with a big flashing red light saying "don't crank" for several seconds and a rather rude tone if you do while the light is on.
My missus has the freelandser with the same engine as you. I love that motor. Very smooth. (definitely when compared to the Jeep that sounds like a valve is bouncing around in each cylinder aswell as the krank case).
Hellas
///Member
I may have been over sensitive to the turbo boosting, but I am confident that the boosting is on the right place now (just under 2200rpm).
Took it to our workshop to feel if the actuator opens correctly, but I cannot reach in there, even with the covers off...and that's where I realized my last option (mistake?): I did not replace the covers as I wanted to see if everything works fine before replacing them.
The front cover acts as an air scoop forcing air into the box. This may well be why I feel that I run out of power on higher speed/rpm's. Will see what happens tonight after I replace the covers.
Re the starting: I wait for all the warning lights (DSC oil etc) to calm down before cranking.
Took it to our workshop to feel if the actuator opens correctly, but I cannot reach in there, even with the covers off...and that's where I realized my last option (mistake?): I did not replace the covers as I wanted to see if everything works fine before replacing them.
The front cover acts as an air scoop forcing air into the box. This may well be why I feel that I run out of power on higher speed/rpm's. Will see what happens tonight after I replace the covers.
Re the starting: I wait for all the warning lights (DSC oil etc) to calm down before cranking.
Solo Man
Well-known member
Very interesting. My 530d is on 193 000km without driver history (previous owner died in air crash) but with full BMW service history. Car runs like a dream, no oil leaks, sweating, nothing. Starts on the button, idles well, pulls well and returns 15km/l on the open road at 120km/h. My concern is the turbo at these kilos?? I do not want to open the turbo if there is nothing wrong (at the moment) but am concerned about preventitive maintenance. What are the signs of a turbo about to fail/disintegrate? What will happen if that should happen. Damage to the engine/pistons/cylinder head/cats? Can one replace the turbo shaft if there is play, or is it the bearings that are knackered? Can they be replaced seperately?
By the way, if you want to have a very interesting read about a guy called Slooby and all his experiences with non-functioning turbo/ suspension repairs/ gearbox issues on a E39 530d, then go to forum.bmw5.co.uk and look for Slooby.
Very, very informative.
Re your car not performing as it should. This guy Slooby i mentioned in my previous post had the problem that the vacuum pipe was blocked at the outlet from the main vacuum line apparently by the vacuum pipe slowly disintegrating on the inside and clogging up the T-piece. He cleaned that out after he had fitted new vacuum pipes and the car was perfect afterwards. By the way, on the 530d you can see the actuator moving when you look from above when your pal starts the car. That was the first thing i did after reading about Slooby's problems. Maybe you have the same problem. See if the actuator is pulling/pushing the vanes of the turbo when you start the car. If not, then that is probably your problem
By the way, if you want to have a very interesting read about a guy called Slooby and all his experiences with non-functioning turbo/ suspension repairs/ gearbox issues on a E39 530d, then go to forum.bmw5.co.uk and look for Slooby.
Very, very informative.
Re your car not performing as it should. This guy Slooby i mentioned in my previous post had the problem that the vacuum pipe was blocked at the outlet from the main vacuum line apparently by the vacuum pipe slowly disintegrating on the inside and clogging up the T-piece. He cleaned that out after he had fitted new vacuum pipes and the car was perfect afterwards. By the way, on the 530d you can see the actuator moving when you look from above when your pal starts the car. That was the first thing i did after reading about Slooby's problems. Maybe you have the same problem. See if the actuator is pulling/pushing the vanes of the turbo when you start the car. If not, then that is probably your problem
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