Gordvisr
Well-known member
Rather S63 if you prefer V8I'm going to be sworn at here but maybe a Lexus V8 with a turbo might be good option.
#kthxbye
😬
-
Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
I blew up my N52 Engine - any ideas how?
- Thread starter r0gue_shin0bi
- Start date
Kyle
///Member
So the E90 comes from a period in time where BMW focused on fleet sales. In order to make the cars more economical to run abroad the service intervals were insanely long so most of the 'common' failure points are due to excessively long oil change intervals. I have owned around 6 E90s (I think) and every one of them needed around 3 oil changes before the state of the oil was acceptable. This may have not been your fault at all but just due to previous owners following the service intervals according to the dash.
KarshS
///Member
What everyone is saying is possible but probably could be many factors. Only way is to strip the engine and see whats damaged and try to pin point.
This car was already using excessive oil when it was running from what you posted. Was probably a tell tail sign that something wasnt lekker.
These oil level sensors give in and give false readings. Replacing the oil frequently is a must. Possible that you filled too much oil or had too little.
For me, if im having to fill oil every week yet alone monthly, its a problem. My e36 325i motor probably only takes 1 lt of oil between services when i was using it daily.
Again all speculation. Keep us updated once stripped and what was found.
This car was already using excessive oil when it was running from what you posted. Was probably a tell tail sign that something wasnt lekker.
These oil level sensors give in and give false readings. Replacing the oil frequently is a must. Possible that you filled too much oil or had too little.
For me, if im having to fill oil every week yet alone monthly, its a problem. My e36 325i motor probably only takes 1 lt of oil between services when i was using it daily.
Again all speculation. Keep us updated once stripped and what was found.
r0gue_shin0bi
Member
Should be, just been quite busy (trying to make the money for this repair 😉) so haven't had a chance to pass by and take photos yet 😅 should be able to tomorrow and will post the pictures when I get back
r0gue_shin0bi
Member
Honestly, the original plan was to give the reliable and safe N52 125i to the wife and get myself an N55 DCT 135i coupe but at this point I'm considering doing that MCSL build with the S65 engine and manual I've been seeing floating around online 😂
r0gue_shin0bi
Member
Shiiiiiiit if I had the money and the time, I would straight put a S85 V10 from the E60 M5 this thing 😉
r0gue_shin0bi
Member
The hope/possibility that it wasn't me does make my heart feel a little better to be entirely honest 😅
r0gue_shin0bi
Member
100% will do!
r0gue_shin0bi
Member
No Updates yet guys - Mechanic hasn't stripped the engine yet, apparently I'm like 3rd in line to have the engine stripped out 😂
Interestingly enough, the engine on the lift currently is an V10 S85 from an E60 M5 - so I joked with the mechanic to put me in touch with the guy to buy and swap it in
The owner was actually there and just laughed and said "You don't want to grow into an old man hey?" 💀
But will update the thread with pictures and info as soon as Mechanic lets me know engine has been stripped and assessed
edit: Spelling errors
Interestingly enough, the engine on the lift currently is an V10 S85 from an E60 M5 - so I joked with the mechanic to put me in touch with the guy to buy and swap it in
The owner was actually there and just laughed and said "You don't want to grow into an old man hey?" 💀
But will update the thread with pictures and info as soon as Mechanic lets me know engine has been stripped and assessed
edit: Spelling errors
Nastaliq
Well-known member
Couple things to consider:
1. No engine is bulletproof, some designs are more problematic than others, but ALL engines can and WILL fail eventually, but this is directly correlated to:
a) Not adhering to BMW maintenance schedule - BMW moving the maintenance schedule to CBS does mean that they seek the cheaper route out, performing change of lubricants and fluids less frequently to save money.
b) Preventive maintenance - many things require changing out/repairing/ servicing well before you think they require replacement. This means even though a ZF transmission as an example is top notch, changing the transmission fluid and drain nut from time to time isnt a bad thing, yes it costs money, but can save thousands down the line.
c) Assuming the previous owner looked after the car - this is a big FAIL. everyone driving a BMW doesnt necessarily care if the engine lasts 200000kms+ kilometers. They just care that BMW will maintain it to 100000km and then will fearfully sell it.
Sounds like you made milkshake. This is likely due to a failed head gasket (common) or a crack in the engine block (less common but does happen) or head which then allows coolant to leak into the oil system.
You likely had a gasket leak for some time which would have shown up on the heat gauge (hard to detect if youre always gunning it) and assuming the increased heat is due to heavy flooring of the throttle.
Oil and coolant shouldnt mix in your engine, not only does it make the oil very thin, but the lubrication of the oil is basically zero and then the car doesnt have coolant to keep it within operating temp.
If enough coolant got into the block when standing, starting it will mean you caused the engine to compress a fluid that it isnt designed to compress. This results in a shooting rod that results in a dead engine. Also the reason why it likely isnt cranking.
The damage and whether it can be rebuilt is likely down to how long you have had oil and coolant mixing and what damage it has done. Over a lengthy period of time, the heat can cause warping and then you can forget it.
Just buy a new engine and drop in.
The moral of the story is DO NOT stick to BMWs intervals for maintenance. They mean nothing. Theyre telling clinets on turbo petrol engines that they only need oil changes every 20 000kms.
LAUGH OUT LOUD. CRY. CRY Some more. Take a Home to Loan to pay for repairs.
1. No engine is bulletproof, some designs are more problematic than others, but ALL engines can and WILL fail eventually, but this is directly correlated to:
a) Not adhering to BMW maintenance schedule - BMW moving the maintenance schedule to CBS does mean that they seek the cheaper route out, performing change of lubricants and fluids less frequently to save money.
b) Preventive maintenance - many things require changing out/repairing/ servicing well before you think they require replacement. This means even though a ZF transmission as an example is top notch, changing the transmission fluid and drain nut from time to time isnt a bad thing, yes it costs money, but can save thousands down the line.
c) Assuming the previous owner looked after the car - this is a big FAIL. everyone driving a BMW doesnt necessarily care if the engine lasts 200000kms+ kilometers. They just care that BMW will maintain it to 100000km and then will fearfully sell it.
Sounds like you made milkshake. This is likely due to a failed head gasket (common) or a crack in the engine block (less common but does happen) or head which then allows coolant to leak into the oil system.
You likely had a gasket leak for some time which would have shown up on the heat gauge (hard to detect if youre always gunning it) and assuming the increased heat is due to heavy flooring of the throttle.
Oil and coolant shouldnt mix in your engine, not only does it make the oil very thin, but the lubrication of the oil is basically zero and then the car doesnt have coolant to keep it within operating temp.
If enough coolant got into the block when standing, starting it will mean you caused the engine to compress a fluid that it isnt designed to compress. This results in a shooting rod that results in a dead engine. Also the reason why it likely isnt cranking.
The damage and whether it can be rebuilt is likely down to how long you have had oil and coolant mixing and what damage it has done. Over a lengthy period of time, the heat can cause warping and then you can forget it.
Just buy a new engine and drop in.
The moral of the story is DO NOT stick to BMWs intervals for maintenance. They mean nothing. Theyre telling clinets on turbo petrol engines that they only need oil changes every 20 000kms.
LAUGH OUT LOUD. CRY. CRY Some more. Take a Home to Loan to pay for repairs.
golfer23
Active member
Hi
I check my oil and coolant levels electronically roughly once a week, physically once a month or so (and by physically, I mean open the cap and take a look with a torch because BMW doesn't believe in a dip stick😅) - I usually fill petrol, check tire pressure, and electronically check oil and coolant every Sunday because I like to start the week with a full tank and fresh car
In terms of oil, I usually use the Shell HX8 5W40, however, due to them being out of stock, probably 3 weeks ago, I topped up 2 x Pints of the Motul 5W30 which may be one of the reasons? But yes, I have been burning through the oil, I usually fill 1-2 Pints every 6 weeks to 2 months or so depending on need (honestly, spirited driving is mostly dependent on my paycheque and the petrol price that month)
In terms of coolant I use the BMW Blue (Coolant/Antifreeze) - I did have a slight coolant leak for around 2 weeks +- 3 months ago, but I got that sorted in December before I took a drive up to Sun City along with sorting out my oil sump which I think was loose and leaking tiny amounts of oil due to a pot hole (I think the car had to be parked for minimum 6 hours prior to seeing any oil puddles and even then, they were quite small (+- 10-12cm in diameter))
Previous owner may have used water/relatively heavily watered down coolant though as I recall doing a coolant flush when I first got the car - I have diluted the coolant once or twice with water which shouldn't have exceeded a 3:7 water : coolant ratio, if you think that might have been a cause?
The only warning lights I had on my dash were for Wiper Fluid - I've been struggling to get a hold of the Liqui Moly Lemon Scented Wiper Fluid Concentrate (If Anyone has a plug, hit me up 😂😂) - I'll have to double check my system today when I pass by, but I think it was still a good couple of 1000kms away from any of my services as well (general due in June as well)
Edited for clarity - on coolant
I did an oil service on my car in Jan, 188kkm, now i service it every year. but over a 10kkm period i might need to put in 1L of oil. also do some spirited driving but 1-2 pints every six weeks just shouts alarm bells to me. last year we did do a double oil change. we ran engine flush with the old oil. ran the engine for 10mins, drained oil and then topped up with 6L of new oil, ran for 10mins again, drained, new oil filter and then put in 6.5L with ceratec. before that, it was closer to the 15kkm/2year mark. so the resulting oil from the double oil change was astonishing. 12L of black oil. dirty!
r0gue_shin0bi
Member
Hello All!
Sorry for the delay! Been crazy at work so haven't had a chance to pass until today as I'm off for the week!
Quick Update - Pics to follow after
But I finally swung by and checked out my engine, and in essence it is completely done for T_T so I will be looking at an import engine
In essence - one of my pistons "melted" and essentially shot through the cylinder - my mechanic suspects it was a leaking fuel injector in the cylinder, but we're still not 100% sure exactly what happened here
Says I should have noticed a bit of an increase in consumption for the past few weeks at least - I did, but I was doing quite spirited driving generally so I guess I passed it off as just being being a little heavy footed
But from what was left of my engine, the cylinder is completely done for, piston? Or what's left of it is basically scrap metal oil pump had a section blown off, shiny porridge in my block and filter top of the cylinder also took a bit of a smack by the looks of it
Sorry for the delay! Been crazy at work so haven't had a chance to pass until today as I'm off for the week!
Quick Update - Pics to follow after
But I finally swung by and checked out my engine, and in essence it is completely done for T_T so I will be looking at an import engine
In essence - one of my pistons "melted" and essentially shot through the cylinder - my mechanic suspects it was a leaking fuel injector in the cylinder, but we're still not 100% sure exactly what happened here
Says I should have noticed a bit of an increase in consumption for the past few weeks at least - I did, but I was doing quite spirited driving generally so I guess I passed it off as just being being a little heavy footed
But from what was left of my engine, the cylinder is completely done for, piston? Or what's left of it is basically scrap metal oil pump had a section blown off, shiny porridge in my block and filter top of the cylinder also took a bit of a smack by the looks of it
r0gue_shin0bi
Member
r0gue_shin0bi
Member
This turned out to quite accurate, there was an increase in fuel consumption and temp but I do send it quite a bit so I did actually end up attributing to heavy foot
Luckily I had saved up a bit of cash as I was looking to get a e82 N55 135i so basically all that will go to my engine now 🥲
Not much to do except laugh like a crazy person, cry in the dark when I'm alone and drop an import engine in I guess
Usually any little difference I would have at least gotten checked out but I guess I let a little more slide than I should have in the maybe 2 months or so prior to this - I guess I had a few false alarms which lulled me into a false sense if security so I ignored some of the little things
While the school of life does take very heavy tuition, at least I got some on hand experience stripping my engine and a very well learned lesson to not slack off and ignore the little things
edit: Spelling
Nastaliq
Well-known member
Still, its a sorry sight to see. If you see how these engines are manufactured, you will notice that internal engine components could possibly be manufactured to a a higher standard of quality. Small imperfections in casting of the parts normally dont fail QC, but can create micro-cracks over time and since each engine is tested on a bench with fuel pipes for compression and friction as well as db rating, these are almost impossible to pick up when leaving the factory and so here we are years later.
Something Ive also learned recently is that many owners and even BMW master technicians believe the oil used in BMW engines today is too thin and doesnt lubricate well enough. BMWs argument for this is that the thinner oil is better for preventing sludge and buildup and that thinner oild are better suited for warmer climates, whereas in Russia and up north (canada) different oil is specified.
Who knows, fluid dynamics is a science on its own.
Ultimately, seems like you will be buying a new engine. Make sure everything is tested and 100 percent before you buy the engine and have it shipped here, or if you are buying from a local "engine importer" that there is some warranty/cover for issues, although its easy for them to say improper lubrication/maintenance led to a failure 1 year down the line.
The timing chain on these engines are also quite brittle over time and the chains tend to stretch also. If youre buying another engine, when it arrives, have it disassembled and inspected first. Running doesnt mean "running well".
Its cheaper to have it opened, inspected and anything out of tolerance replaced (guide, cracking piston, chain, chain guide or injectors), and then commissioning the engine, versus trusting its solid, only to have to drop the engine in 3 months.
I learned this with a compressor from Karcher (I know, not the same thing), but same principle applies.
Once new engine is here (consider walnut blasting),oil flush and coolant checks are vital.
All the best and please keep us posted here, how you get on.
Some of the information you discover like changing engine numbers etc can help someone down the road.
Something Ive also learned recently is that many owners and even BMW master technicians believe the oil used in BMW engines today is too thin and doesnt lubricate well enough. BMWs argument for this is that the thinner oil is better for preventing sludge and buildup and that thinner oild are better suited for warmer climates, whereas in Russia and up north (canada) different oil is specified.
Who knows, fluid dynamics is a science on its own.
Ultimately, seems like you will be buying a new engine. Make sure everything is tested and 100 percent before you buy the engine and have it shipped here, or if you are buying from a local "engine importer" that there is some warranty/cover for issues, although its easy for them to say improper lubrication/maintenance led to a failure 1 year down the line.
The timing chain on these engines are also quite brittle over time and the chains tend to stretch also. If youre buying another engine, when it arrives, have it disassembled and inspected first. Running doesnt mean "running well".
Its cheaper to have it opened, inspected and anything out of tolerance replaced (guide, cracking piston, chain, chain guide or injectors), and then commissioning the engine, versus trusting its solid, only to have to drop the engine in 3 months.
I learned this with a compressor from Karcher (I know, not the same thing), but same principle applies.
Once new engine is here (consider walnut blasting),oil flush and coolant checks are vital.
All the best and please keep us posted here, how you get on.
Some of the information you discover like changing engine numbers etc can help someone down the road.
r0gue_shin0bi
Member
This is great info bud, things I haven't quite considered before here - so greatly appreciated
Honestly the initial plan was to do a full revamp of this car once I got the 135i and let the wife have some fun in it, but at this point, universe and life allowing, I may as well just try get some forged internals and slap a turbo on instead and just get her a nice X1 or something (I need something a little bigger for fishing gear anyway
)I think I will be getting an engine from a local importer here - but will definitely have the engine properly disassembled and tested before dropping it in
Will 100% update with the engine number change process and anything else I may come across here as well as any updates from the engine strip etc and install
r0gue_shin0bi
Member
HI All,
TL: DR at the bottom for those lazy to read 😉
Quick weird update on this - basically in summary, we are struggling to find the correct engine
We have tried local and international (online) importers, even called up some of my mechanics contacts and tried to get a new engine (They wanted R230K and didn't have SOH, so pricing was likely to go up with ROE etc.) - but all we can find currently are Pre-LCI options, N52N and B25 options currently - still looking at some other engine swap options but don't really want to deal with the hassles of conversions and finding someone trustworthy to do it etc.
I will not however, be scrapping the 125i so will keep you guys updated on any progress (if there is any) if y'all want
That being said, at this point - I've pretty much told the mechanic to keep looking for an engine and am considering just getting the 135i I wanted anyway and rebuilding the 125i slowly as I need to be mobile and the wear and tear of sharing the Getz as a daily as well as petrol costs have been horrific due to distance - we're about 25kms from home one way and in opposite directions, so around 90-100kms a day on weekdays - I'll probably try decide whether to live out my matching his and hers e82 fantasies or sell after rebuilding (honestly leaning towards fantasies but we'll see what the wife and finances say when that time coes😅)
So currently looking at a 2011 N55 135i Coupe with DCT and Msport, FSH +-118k KMs on the clock (OEM iDrive navigation on this one is a big plus😉 - If for nothing other than Bluetooth that I can use MFS with😂)
Supposedly stock engine with preventative maintenance done (I'll ask for a list of actual work done and invoices and update when I go view and test in a week or two when I get some time)
Other than Water Pump, HPFP, Oil leaks, Solenoids, Charge Pipe? etc - anything else I should be on the lookout for that's prone to failure or cause issues?
Same for the DCT Transmission as I know they're fantastic but can be a bit expensive for repairs?
On that note - what mods have you guys done for reliability (performance mods will come later once this car stops being the daily or once I have money to risk breaking this one 😉) - if you have any ideas of rough costs etc. that would be greatly appreciated as well or just any advice for me generally with these
Also have any of you done walnut blasting? If so, any info you can share with regards to companies you trust, experiences with them and the effects of it would also be greatly appreciated
To be honest, my assumption is due to the popularity and availability of N55 model BMWs, parts shouldn't be too difficult to get - but if you guys have any experiences with this please also let me know (perhaps compatibility issues with 435i N55 for example)
If you guys are willing to share, what are you guys expecting/paying for comprehensive insurance and who with? (I know pricing will vary dependant on driver profile and a myriad of other factors, but just trying to see if I'm getting screwed on my quote 😉)
TL; DR:
-Can't find N52B30 engine for my 125i
-Want to buy 2011 N55 135i w/ DCT & +- 118k KMs
-Parts/Common Issues on N55 and DCT?
-Walnut Blasting? Trustworthy Companies/Experiences? Worthwhile to do?
-Parts availability/experiences for N55?
-Insurance? Best insurers, Coverage options, Pricing etc.?
Edit - Fixed formatting issues
TL: DR at the bottom for those lazy to read 😉
Quick weird update on this - basically in summary, we are struggling to find the correct engine
We have tried local and international (online) importers, even called up some of my mechanics contacts and tried to get a new engine (They wanted R230K and didn't have SOH, so pricing was likely to go up with ROE etc.) - but all we can find currently are Pre-LCI options, N52N and B25 options currently - still looking at some other engine swap options but don't really want to deal with the hassles of conversions and finding someone trustworthy to do it etc.
I will not however, be scrapping the 125i so will keep you guys updated on any progress (if there is any) if y'all want
That being said, at this point - I've pretty much told the mechanic to keep looking for an engine and am considering just getting the 135i I wanted anyway and rebuilding the 125i slowly as I need to be mobile and the wear and tear of sharing the Getz as a daily as well as petrol costs have been horrific due to distance - we're about 25kms from home one way and in opposite directions, so around 90-100kms a day on weekdays - I'll probably try decide whether to live out my matching his and hers e82 fantasies or sell after rebuilding (honestly leaning towards fantasies but we'll see what the wife and finances say when that time coes😅)
So currently looking at a 2011 N55 135i Coupe with DCT and Msport, FSH +-118k KMs on the clock (OEM iDrive navigation on this one is a big plus😉 - If for nothing other than Bluetooth that I can use MFS with😂)
Supposedly stock engine with preventative maintenance done (I'll ask for a list of actual work done and invoices and update when I go view and test in a week or two when I get some time)
Other than Water Pump, HPFP, Oil leaks, Solenoids, Charge Pipe? etc - anything else I should be on the lookout for that's prone to failure or cause issues?
Same for the DCT Transmission as I know they're fantastic but can be a bit expensive for repairs?
On that note - what mods have you guys done for reliability (performance mods will come later once this car stops being the daily or once I have money to risk breaking this one 😉) - if you have any ideas of rough costs etc. that would be greatly appreciated as well or just any advice for me generally with these
Also have any of you done walnut blasting? If so, any info you can share with regards to companies you trust, experiences with them and the effects of it would also be greatly appreciated
To be honest, my assumption is due to the popularity and availability of N55 model BMWs, parts shouldn't be too difficult to get - but if you guys have any experiences with this please also let me know (perhaps compatibility issues with 435i N55 for example)
If you guys are willing to share, what are you guys expecting/paying for comprehensive insurance and who with? (I know pricing will vary dependant on driver profile and a myriad of other factors, but just trying to see if I'm getting screwed on my quote 😉)
TL; DR:
-Can't find N52B30 engine for my 125i
-Want to buy 2011 N55 135i w/ DCT & +- 118k KMs
-Parts/Common Issues on N55 and DCT?
-Walnut Blasting? Trustworthy Companies/Experiences? Worthwhile to do?
-Parts availability/experiences for N55?
-Insurance? Best insurers, Coverage options, Pricing etc.?
Edit - Fixed formatting issues
Last edited:
Spanky
Well-known member
Have to agree here.
I'd have to go dig through all my invoices (ignorance is bliss and all that) but I've put well over 6 figures into my 135i for general maintenance over my 6 years of ownership. That is just normal maintenance items - nothing massive has broken (knock on wood).
A non-exhaustive list includes things like:
- Shocks (10k)
- Brakes (15k)
- Cooling componentry (Radiator, hoses etc.) (10k)
- Plugs and Coils (5k)
- DCT Oil & Filters (15k)
- Diff Oil (2k)
- Rim Refurb (3k)
- Tyres (16k)
- Belts and Pulleys (5k)
- Suspension bits and bobs (12k)
Also, let's just gloss over the abysmal fuel consumption and mod costs 💀
Got the car at 112k km, sitting at 150k now.
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