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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
My BMW E46 330i - The stuff of dreams
- Thread starter Zound
- Start date
OppositeLockMT
Active member
I've personally always thought the M3 bumper looks a bit awkward on a sedan, but that's just me.
I prefer the look of MTechII with a lip.
When done properly it does look good though!
Looks like it's the same car, just realised :crazylaugh:
I prefer the look of MTechII with a lip.
When done properly it does look good though!
Looks like it's the same car, just realised :crazylaugh:
OppositeLockMT
Active member
^That looks great.
You would also have to think about colour coding the rest of your trim if you fitted an M3 bumper as it doesn't have any black trim.
You would also have to think about colour coding the rest of your trim if you fitted an M3 bumper as it doesn't have any black trim.
Captain_Stealth
Well-known member
OppositeLockMT said:
I jizzed
OppositeLockMT
Active member
Or fronts all around.
Just be sure that colour coding is the route you want to take before you make the decision, I imagine it would make the MTech 1 look a bit more "rounded", this effect is less pronounced with the MTech 2 given the slightly more aggressive overhangs.
Just be sure that colour coding is the route you want to take before you make the decision, I imagine it would make the MTech 1 look a bit more "rounded", this effect is less pronounced with the MTech 2 given the slightly more aggressive overhangs.
Zound
///Member
Update:
So my car has been losing brake/clutch fluid at about 250ml a month, which is unreasonably high, so this past week I decided I'd get to the crux of the matter. Started by inspecting clutch master, then removing all wheels and inspecting brake calipers and their lines. Nothing there so jacked up the car and went to investigate the last piece of the puzzle, the clutch slave cylinder.
So sure as can be, the leak is coming from the clutch bell housing and as expected the clutch slave cylinder piston seal is on its way out. I tried hunting around everywhere for a seal kit for this clutch slave and only CentPart centurion could help me. The first set they gave me seemed like it was for the original clutch slave cylinder since the seal was slightly smaller and thinner(My car had an aftermarket Febi Clutch Slave). Gave it a go after honing out the cylinder too but to no avail, the new seal kit failed almost instantly. Went back to CentPart and they tried to order me a seal kit specific to my clutch slave but once again, the new seal kit was slightly smaller and just wasn't up to the job. FYI the kits include the piston seal and the dust seal for the shaft for R60.
So decided to bite the bullet and just buy a new one.
Here's the prices I was quoted from various outlets as of 24/07/2015
Leo Haese Centurion - OEM BMW(R1150)
Goldwagen - Febi (R895)
Bemows - Unknown brand (R525)
Centoria Brake and Clutch - LPR (R550)
Imcomex - Don't Stock
Midas - Don't Stock
Due to logistics, price and a bit of research I decided to go with the LPR from Centoria Brake and Clutch. Installed it yesterday and bled the system in under 25 minutes and now the old girl is happy again. Was interesting to see just how much nasty gunk was in the old clutch/brake fluid so was very happy to be replacing that.
So my car has been losing brake/clutch fluid at about 250ml a month, which is unreasonably high, so this past week I decided I'd get to the crux of the matter. Started by inspecting clutch master, then removing all wheels and inspecting brake calipers and their lines. Nothing there so jacked up the car and went to investigate the last piece of the puzzle, the clutch slave cylinder.
So sure as can be, the leak is coming from the clutch bell housing and as expected the clutch slave cylinder piston seal is on its way out. I tried hunting around everywhere for a seal kit for this clutch slave and only CentPart centurion could help me. The first set they gave me seemed like it was for the original clutch slave cylinder since the seal was slightly smaller and thinner(My car had an aftermarket Febi Clutch Slave). Gave it a go after honing out the cylinder too but to no avail, the new seal kit failed almost instantly. Went back to CentPart and they tried to order me a seal kit specific to my clutch slave but once again, the new seal kit was slightly smaller and just wasn't up to the job. FYI the kits include the piston seal and the dust seal for the shaft for R60.
So decided to bite the bullet and just buy a new one.
Here's the prices I was quoted from various outlets as of 24/07/2015
Leo Haese Centurion - OEM BMW(R1150)
Goldwagen - Febi (R895)
Bemows - Unknown brand (R525)
Centoria Brake and Clutch - LPR (R550)
Imcomex - Don't Stock
Midas - Don't Stock
Due to logistics, price and a bit of research I decided to go with the LPR from Centoria Brake and Clutch. Installed it yesterday and bled the system in under 25 minutes and now the old girl is happy again. Was interesting to see just how much nasty gunk was in the old clutch/brake fluid so was very happy to be replacing that.
Charlie Brown
Member
Bleeding this the "correct" way according to the Haynes manual is a real PIA as you supposed to remove the slave and hold it with the bleed nipple facing upwards. This can lead to the piston flying out, ask me how I know this, when you forget and jump into the car to test the clutch pressure / feel.
I have made a little tool up that bolts to the slave and prevents the piston / push from moving too far.
Given that's it's such a PIA I think that very few people do it, hence the gunk build up.
I have made a little tool up that bolts to the slave and prevents the piston / push from moving too far.
Given that's it's such a PIA I think that very few people do it, hence the gunk build up.
Zound
///Member
Just about service time for my car and am looking for a bit of advice.
My dad got some Castrol Edge 10W-60 on special (Think it was R300 for a 5'er) and I want to know whether this is a suitable oil for my car?
My car:
2001 E46 330i Manual with 265 000 Km's and am maintaining a 10 000Km oil change interval
Last oil change I used Motul 5W-30 (Also got that on special and a couple US forums said that it was pretty decent oil)
Next question: When I redid the Vanos with Beisan seals, I noticed that the drive train and specifically cams had a very dark varnish colour to them. Not sludge but a very dark gold/brown colour.
So I'd like to use an engine flush for the next couple oil changes in the hopes that I can restore the colour and condition to the normal bright gold colour. So should I use the 1 litre of ATF method or should I buy a dedicated engine flush such as the Liquimoly engine flush ?(http://obdworx.co.za/catalog/product/view/id/383/s/engine-flush-300ml/category/15/)
My dad got some Castrol Edge 10W-60 on special (Think it was R300 for a 5'er) and I want to know whether this is a suitable oil for my car?
My car:
2001 E46 330i Manual with 265 000 Km's and am maintaining a 10 000Km oil change interval
Last oil change I used Motul 5W-30 (Also got that on special and a couple US forums said that it was pretty decent oil)
Next question: When I redid the Vanos with Beisan seals, I noticed that the drive train and specifically cams had a very dark varnish colour to them. Not sludge but a very dark gold/brown colour.
So I'd like to use an engine flush for the next couple oil changes in the hopes that I can restore the colour and condition to the normal bright gold colour. So should I use the 1 litre of ATF method or should I buy a dedicated engine flush such as the Liquimoly engine flush ?(http://obdworx.co.za/catalog/product/view/id/383/s/engine-flush-300ml/category/15/)
Legacy
///Member
Zound said:
Please do not put that glue in your car, it is way too thick for the engine.
If I were you I would use Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 (I use this in my M54B25) or one of the LM 5w40 variants.
As to the flush, I would add 1 liter of ATF to the oil and drive conservatively for around 1000km and then do the oil change, I doubt that an engine flush product can clean the engine in such a small amount of time.
Jamaine
///Member
:withStu:Legacy said:
you also might want to try the shell HX7 10w 40 I use this and ever since been noticing a great difference in how much my car takes oil as well as the condition of the inside of the engine really works for me. the Castrol is absolutely crap from my experience in my car.
Philip Foglar
///Member
Which Castrol oil are you referring to, and why was it no good in your car? Been using Castrol Magnatec Professional 5W-30 in the 320i's engine for years now and absolutely no problems. And when I did the Vanos seals at around 182k km the engine was still pretty clean, just had the golden varnish, but other than that, no problems. I do of course swear by the 10k km or at least once a year oil service though.
Jamaine
///Member
Sorry forgot to mention type was magnatec 5w 40 fully synthetic. I used to use about 500ml a week and engine didn't look good when we opened up the top to do tappet gasket. now that I changed to hx7 haven't had to fill oil so often, I would say 500ml after 2000km and engine is starting to look cleaner opened tappet cover just too see cause that varnish was bugging me.Philip Foglar said:
Philip Foglar
///Member
Strange, must have been something specific with that spec of oil???
This is our M54B22 looked like at 182k km when I did the Vanos seals. And I gather it's entire life has been running on Castrol 5W-30 LL01.
This is our M54B22 looked like at 182k km when I did the Vanos seals. And I gather it's entire life has been running on Castrol 5W-30 LL01.
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