E30 318i Cabrolet Project

[antonvh]

Got my hands on a 318i 1992 E30 Cab. Needs a bit of work and I am hoping you BMW specialist will be able to assist.

Here is my to do list:

Horible vibration @ 100km/h, almost feels as if car vibrates sideways (if that makes any sense) but there is no vibration on steering.

Speedo, oil pressure and temp gauge dont work.

Then I need parts:
- Boot Badge
- Driver side visor
- Panel behind driver seat
- Gear lever knob

Where is the best place to source E30 spares.

 

[zaleonardz]

First issue is simple, that is control arm bushes, fix that and she will handle nicely.

Bemows is a good option, followed by your local scrap yard.

 

[Nic_s]

Another Cape Town man... welcome :thumbsup:

Have the control arm bushings checked out like zaleonardz said. If that's fine make sure all the wheels are balanced and that none of the rims have any bends in them. If that fails, have the propshaft checked out at a propshaft center.

As for parts, you can try looking up Shamiel, NMU, or maybe Bruce's BMW (Don't have details here right now).

Let us know how it goes :thumbsup:

 

[Hellas]

Welcome Anton!
Good call would be the scrapyards and secondhand shops. You pick up E30 parts easily these days. :thumbsup:

 

[Spy007]

:ttiuwp:

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Me want to CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC

 

[antonvh]

Thanks for all the feedback....sent the car in to have the suspension checked out. Luckily my Bro-in-law is a suspension and steering specialist (let me know if any of you are looing for someone) and hope to have the verdict this week.

I am still trying to find a complete dash (my one is cracked in its glory) if anyone knows of one going.

PS. how do I insert a picture!:dunno:

 

[Nic_s]

Thanks for all the feedback....sent the car in to have the suspension checked out. Luckily my Bro-in-law is a suspension and steering specialist (let me know if any of you are looing for someone) and hope to have the verdict this week.

I am still trying to find a complete dash (my one is cracked in its glory) if anyone knows of one going.

PS. how do I insert a picture!:dunno:

To see how to post picks, go here: http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=63


As for a good dash... well... they are VERY difficult to find and even if you did find a good dash you would have to pay big bucks to get it. A second hand dash with no cracks can go for anything from about R10k upwards.

Your best option would be to go for an aftermarket dash, although it seems they are pretty hard to come by as well as everyone wants one. They are about R2000 new.

You other option is to have a fiber glass replica made or to just have your dash recovered. I know some cover them with leather.


I have some bad cracks in my dash. I've patched them up and you can read what I did here: http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=708&highlight=Dash+Repair

You'll see I also made a post in that topic about using suede which I think looks kinda nice and if I had the time and money, I might try it.

Good luck :thumbsup:

 

[antonvh]

Thanks for the info, yes it seems I will attempt the silicone thing, unless I am able to source the aftermarket dash (didn't know they are available).

I will send some pics as soon as I figure out how to

 

[junaid]

i might be able to get you a complete cluster:thumb:
what are your plans for the car?

 

[Leon]

Hi Antonvh
Go and check out http://www.e30clubsa.co.za/
There are quite a few E30 specialist on there that will be happy to help
Post some pics

 

[antonvh]

So I went to fetch the car to day (Had the brakes done and suspension checked) and on the way home....huge missfire. I checked the plugs and found #3 plug completely carboned up. I removed the exhaust manifold and to my disapointment...#3 port black thick oil residue and carbon...now what.

I am guesing busted ring.....also heard that valve guide could cause oil to leak into exhaust manifold..... and here I thought the dash was my biggest problem.......

Anyone want to buy a softop 318 ..... what is this engine rebuild going to cost me???? I only drove the darb thing for 3 days.

Any suggestions on reasonable priced but excelent BMW engine rebuilders in town?

 

[Nic_s]

I had my 318i for little over a year with no issues and then suddenly it all went wrong and is still going wrong... So I know how that feels. My car blew top gasket. I had the head redone, but not the whole motor as I couldn't afford it. I wish I did have the whole motor done as it's now been a little over a year since the head was done and it's making bad noises again. So have the whole motor done if you can and have it done with someone who knows what they are doing. I'd say Zeemax in Paarden Island will most likely be your best bet.

Good luck :thumbsup:

 

[antonvh]

taking it for compression test tomorrow to determine he it is a head engine job. Dont have the bucks for both. Just seems like over capitalising to spend 20k on the car.

Ps. I found some great stuff to fix dashboard cracks. Its a pratley product and works heat he you have the patience. I will take some pics to show the progress.

 

[antonvh]

so I will hopefully get the baby back this weekend. Colapsed oil ring on #3. New pistons, rings, bearings, camshaft, lifters, rockers...R12k later...hopefully she will purr like a kitten.

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cant find spares for the car. No one has boot badge, gear knob, hinge covers for front seats, back board for passenger seat or driver side sun visor for me...help.

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cant find spares for the car. No one has boot badge, gear knob, hinge covers for front seats, back board for passenger seat or driver side sun visor for me...help.

 

[Nic_s]

Keep an eye on Gumtree. There are often people stripping E30's. Your other option to go to your local scrapyard and if they don't have what you need, ask them where other scrapyards are that might.

 

[antonvh]

Well got her back. Engineers had issues with the oil supply to the cam shaft (ran a brand new cam). Eventually they found the problem....some bright spark enlarged the holes in the oil feeder rail that feeds the oil to the cam causing a reduction in oil pressure.

The motor is now running sweet (sort off) with complete bottom and top overhaul and only cost 12K.

Now I am trying to sortout some of the other issues. My next chalenge the darn temp gauge. The gauge does not move out of the blue section. When I earth the temp wire the gauge goes to hot which usually means sensor, I changed the sensor and it did not help. If I measure the resistance then the temp wire to the gauge drops from 5K to 300 ohm when hot, there is good contact on the earth stud and positive on the gauge (when I earth the wire the gauge goes up). what is the problem. Could it be voltage supply i.e. the voltage to the gauge is incorrect? Can someone tell me what voltage is supplied to the + and wether the earth is 0v chassis earth?

I now had to buy an aftermarket gauge (haven't fitted it yet) but would prefer to get the darn thing to work.

Oh, there is another possibility, I see the cluster was changed at some time (car has incorrect milage), what if the new cluster is from an older model where the probes were mounted on the thermo housing and is not compatible with the M40 where sensor is on the cylinder head? Are the sensor values different between the two models.

That's a mouth full but some expertise will be appreciated.

 

[Nic_s]

Unfortunately I can't really help you with all the voltages and so on. But I had the same thing with my car and in the end it turns out that it was my thermostat that was stuck on fully open. Meaning the engine ran way to cold. After having it replaced the needle now goes to about 1/4 of the gauge (First small white stripe), but is actually suppose to be right in the middle (90c if I remember correctly). It doesn't sound like you have the same problem, but it could be worth a look?

 

[antonvh]

good call, my thermostat was taken out....but if your gauge was on 1/4 them I cant help but still think that there is another problem. I stuck a generic digital gauge on (dont know how accurate it is) and this shows max temp in traffic as 70 so I would imagine that the OE gauge should go up to something.

 

[Nic_s]

good call, my thermostat was taken out....but if your gauge was on 1/4 them I cant help but still think that there is another problem. I stuck a generic digital gauge on (dont know how accurate it is) and this shows max temp in traffic as 70 so I would imagine that the OE gauge should go up to something.

I figured as I do have a new thermostat that it must be the sensor or the gauge that's not what it should be. But I'm not bothered as the thermostat works independently from the heat sensor. So it should be keeping the engine on the right temp even if the sensor doesn't work right.

But I'm just lazy... should actually take a look. :hammerhead:

 

[antonvh]

frustration here is that I cant find details anywhere on the sender and gauge specs.

Is there a difference between ohm vs temp readings for different sender in models i.e could the cluster be incompatible?

My gauge lies on 1/4 @ 50 ohm, 1/2 @ 25 ohm and hot @ 0 ohm if I test with a potentio meter (variable resistor - old volume knob).

The oe sensor measures > 2k ohm when cold and 300 ohm @ 90 degrees which should be about 3/4 on the gauge but is below the first line.

I need to either find a sensor with a 0 to +/- 100 ohm or a gauge that operates on +/- 200 ohm to 3k ohm

if anyone knows a bmw expert that has access to the sensor and gauge spesifications please let me know