Witch getting stripped and fixed

moranor@axis

///Member
Official Advertiser
a1exander said:
You need tools to strip valves.
Valve spring compressor.

Maybe a R6000 motor will do as suggested by Gizmo as you are likely to spend more than that on parts and engineering.

Head job is roughly R2000
Gaskets R2000
W/Pump R600
T/tat R200
Oil Pump R800
Pistons+ bearings +-R3000

Do not rush it and buy nothing before you know what you are dealing with.

Maybe food for thought?

so even without pistons and bearings its about the same cost as getting another engine... in this case i would go for better engine no question...
 

Thunder

///Member
Thanx for all the advice guys.

Will weight up my options once I see the damage inside the motor. As for the parts im not really bothered as this is not a rush job. Taking my time and making sure everything is done properly.

If needed I can always get the head to someone for cleaning as that is all I want to do.

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Thunder

///Member
Found another snag. :cry:.

How do you get the wire off that goes drom the harness to the gearbox?

Got the alternator and starter wires off with a big struggle.

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Thunder

///Member
A quick question for all you motorheads.

How much work would have to be done to remove the complete motor?
Still struggling on the cable that goes to the gearbox. Will give that a bash today as I need to get in under the car to get the exhaust manifold loose.

Gizmo said:
This should be done in no time, the M40 and M43 are some of the easiest BMW motors to work on. No vanos or VVTI bullshit to worry about.
I personally would dump the M43 and fit the 16valve M42 in its place, your M43 wiring harness and ECU will run a M42 motor. These M42's can be had for R5k-R6k and you have lots of headroom for future modifications like what I did to my one, 2044cc stroker motor!

Where would I be able to get one if I decide to go this route?
And will there be a way to check it thoroughly before fitting?
Will my current gearbox and other parts work? Or rather what parts would have to be changed aswell?
 

Thunder

///Member
So with a lor of hassle I removed the bolts holding the exhaust to the manifold.

Took out the thermostat and removes the timing chain cover.

But now a question. Where can I get a set of hex type socketa to remove the head bolts?

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Solo Man

Well-known member
Hi, i am doing exactly the same as you re removing the head (also 316i M43 motor) as the car was losing water badly and i already had replaced the plastic pipes at the back and under the inlet manifold with new ones. Anyway, went out and bought a set of torx sockets from Autozone for R117 rand and used my normal half inch driver to get the headbolts out. I only removed the alternater wiring and removed the alternator just to make it easier to work on the car. Head is cracked badly but is at a company specializing in welding the head. They apparently heat it up and then weld it. Did the same thing to my old E39 528 which my brother is still driving after four years and 50k km's. Anyway, hope they can fix it as a secondhand head without cam is R3k and then you still have to have it pressure tested and skimmed.Car has done over 400k km's and would initially start with a misfire on one cylinder and then run like a swiss watch and pulled like a train. OK, not exactly but i would often be surprised at the smoothness of the motor. Anyway, am really appreciating all the advice from all you forumites! Thanks!
Just a tip! Replace the small plastic elbow at the back of the head with a new part from BMW as well as the T-piece under the inlet manifold that sits on the block now that the manifold is out of the way. I can guarantee that the o-rings will have disintegrated by this time as that was exactly what was the case on my motor.
 

Solo Man

Well-known member
Thanks Snake, wasn't sure what they are called and do not know the size, but bought the right sockets and headbolts came out nicely. Quality of set sockets not too bad, should be able to torque the headbolts as per instructions.
 

Solo Man

Well-known member
Have a good look at the picture with the heads of the head bolts showing. Gives a good idea of what the sockets insides look like. They also fit nice and tight over the bolt head, for secure loosening and fastening.
 

moranor@axis

///Member
Official Advertiser
looking now at my Torx socket set the Male bits are labeled with T numbers

the sockets are E numbers... from the pics my sockets look like they will fit perfectly over those heads...

im not sure if they are both called Torx or if the E sockets have a different name... mine came as a set together
 

Fraser

///Member
Told you.
This guy round the corner Bruce, is a genius with these cars.

I'm taking the Zed in on Monday for my everlasting gearbox.

Guy wears rubber gloves when he works on your car and wraps the nose of your car in plastic before he starts working on it.
Prices are very very good.

Rubber Gloves did it for me.
He's just done a full service and replaced can belt and tensioners on the Audi, with a full diagnostic test for less than half the price than anywhere else.
Might be worth the while to speak to him.

Will save you a lot of time and money.
 

racing snake

New member
torx bits are like elln keys in that they fit inside the bolt or cap screw.

the 'e' socket is like a normal socket that fits over the bolt.

i think the size you need is either the e12 or e14 bit. midas also sells a nice set that has a large variety of sizes. about R150 iirc.
 
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