Weird Problem - E46 BMW 318i N42

[Wolverine]

Cool Trigger.

My advice is to never use any pirate components on your car.

Also, if youre not picking up an error code, then chances are that there isnt anything wrong with the Valvetronic system.

R250 / hour is actually cheap, and hes offering you a R150 discount. nice.

This sort of problem is not the easiest, and in my case the Valvetronic system was indicating a fault code.

i know the guys is my contact. but if youre not happy with his diagnosis, i say get a second, or even third opinion and quote. if they all say the same thing, then get it changed as a precautionary measure. that way even if its not that, you prevent a future failure of the breather (which is a problem which does occur from time to time on BMW's).

Hop this helped.

---

Hi Guy's

I have a 318i facelift with the following symptoms:

1.) Rough idle on start up
2.) Engine noise on start up
3.) Overfueling smell from engine
4.) Loss of power periodicaly between 700rpm - 2000 rpm

The weird part is that I can start the car and drive the entire day but if I switch it off and try to start it lets say 15 minutes later, it doesn't start but if I unplug the air mass meter sensor or let the engine cool for about 30 minutes, the car starts!

Ran a dignostics test and picked up the fault of 'valvetronic actuator' however no EML light is on an when ran diagnostics for the second time, the fault code didnt even pick up!

It seems as though when the valvetroic motor heats up the car doesnt start but when cools down, then it starts.

Also, think by unplugging the air mass meter, the engine goes into limp mode and starts??

Any ideas guys? Im totally out if ideas now

---

Dude! It sounds like we are in the same boat hey!
I'm sitting with the same symptoms, just a bit more aggrevated. But also seems to be way worse when warmed up or when its hot outside.
See here: http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=26713

Check your vvt motor as mentioned by ZL on the first page of this thread. I checked mine and it seems to have blown. Gonna get it replaced soon. I really hope thats gonna be the end of my troubles.

Leonard might be able to shed some more light on this though.:thumbs:

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Thanks bud,

Nobody can pin point the exact cause. Tried a rather silly thing yesterday but it worked. Took the car for a drive, got back home and switched it off. Tried starting it again and it didn't so removed the tappit cover housing and placed a cloth with some ice wrapped in it on the vvt motor for about 5 minutes.

To my surprise the car started on the first go when I tried after it cooled:idea:

Strangely, this motor seems to be heat dependent? Not sure if you guys agree with this?

 

[Syl]

Cool Trigger.

My advice is to never use any pirate components on your car.

Also, if youre not picking up an error code, then chances are that there isnt anything wrong with the Valvetronic system.

R250 / hour is actually cheap, and hes offering you a R150 discount. nice.

This sort of problem is not the easiest, and in my case the Valvetronic system was indicating a fault code.

i know the guys is my contact. but if youre not happy with his diagnosis, i say get a second, or even third opinion and quote. if they all say the same thing, then get it changed as a precautionary measure. that way even if its not that, you prevent a future failure of the breather (which is a problem which does occur from time to time on BMW's).

Hop this helped.

---

Hi Guy's

I have a 318i facelift with the following symptoms:

1.) Rough idle on start up
2.) Engine noise on start up
3.) Overfueling smell from engine
4.) Loss of power periodicaly between 700rpm - 2000 rpm

The weird part is that I can start the car and drive the entire day but if I switch it off and try to start it lets say 15 minutes later, it doesn't start but if I unplug the air mass meter sensor or let the engine cool for about 30 minutes, the car starts!

Ran a dignostics test and picked up the fault of 'valvetronic actuator' however no EML light is on an when ran diagnostics for the second time, the fault code didnt even pick up!

It seems as though when the valvetroic motor heats up the car doesnt start but when cools down, then it starts.

Also, think by unplugging the air mass meter, the engine goes into limp mode and starts??

Any ideas guys? Im totally out if ideas now

---

Dude! It sounds like we are in the same boat hey!
I'm sitting with the same symptoms, just a bit more aggrevated. But also seems to be way worse when warmed up or when its hot outside.
See here: http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=26713

Check your vvt motor as mentioned by ZL on the first page of this thread. I checked mine and it seems to have blown. Gonna get it replaced soon. I really hope thats gonna be the end of my troubles.

Leonard might be able to shed some more light on this though.:thumbs:

---

---

Thanks bud,

Nobody can pin point the exact cause. Tried a rather silly thing yesterday but it worked. Took the car for a drive, got back home and switched it off. Tried starting it again and it didn't so removed the tappit cover housing and placed a cloth with some ice wrapped in it on the vvt motor for about 5 minutes.

To my surprise the car started on the first go when I tried after it cooled:idea:

Strangely, this motor seems to be heat dependent? Not sure if you guys agree with this?

---

---

I might try that tonight, just for interest sake.

What I'm thinking is that since the motor burnt out, the insides expand as it warms up, seizing it up. But then as it cools off again, the insides shrink and allows it to turn again.
Thats my theory anyway...

 

[Wolverine]

Try testing the motor by putting direct power to it...if the motor spins, you know it's working...if it doesnt, then you can be sure it's stuck.
It should work on the same principle as any other motor if im correct.

Bought a new valvetronic motor from SMG Durban today, R2648 after asking for 20 % discount (normal price R3300)

Going to have it fitted and programmed tomorrow.

 

[tai88]

Hey guys,.. Just thought I'd get in on this too.. If we can have a resolution to this that would be fantastic. I have similar issues, not as bad as described above, but I'm heading there.

Word of advice if you want to replace the CCV yourself, make sure you have the whole day and lots of beers!

 

[Wolverine]

Hi Tai,

I'm having my valvetronic motor replaced tomorrow. Will keep you guys updated.

What symtom's is your car displaying Tai? If not that serious it may just be a vacuum leak of air mass meter? Do you know how to test or these bro?

These N42 engines can be like women at times...can make you cry! except they can't talk!:blab:

 

[tai88]

Hi Tai,

I'm having my valvetronic motor replaced tomorrow. Will keep you guys updated.

What symtom's is your car displaying Tai? If not that serious it may just be a vacuum leak of air mass meter? Do you know how to test or these bro?

These N42 engines can be like women at times...can make you cry! except they can't talk!:blab:

HAHA... well I have had a few occasions where my car bogs down and coughs when pulling away. And once again, NO CODES WHATSOEVER. It also makes a vibrating noise when climbing those first rpms, after 2500 its smooth.
Then a bit of rough idle here and there(which I am guessing could be the recall bremi ignition coils lossing spark) and intermittent white-ish blue-ish smoke plumes from the exhaust. Oh and a permanent petrol smell :yuck:

I'd love to hear good news from you because my N42 has 260000 on the clock and is starting to ask me for some love.

---

Oh the balloon over the dipstick tube should suck in a bit to show your vacuum is good, mine checked out good here. also a plastic bag over the oil filler cap should suck in, have'nt tried this one yet.

Air flow meter, if faulty you unplug and idle should stabilise. Tried this a while back and no difference for me.

 

[Syl]

Try testing the motor by putting direct power to it...if the motor spins, you know it's working...if it doesnt, then you can be sure it's stuck.
It should work on the same principle as any other motor if im correct.

Bought a new valvetronic motor from SMG Durban today, R2648 after asking for 20 % discount (normal price R3300)

Going to have it fitted and programmed tomorrow.

I got a quote from the bmw dealer today at R3150.
And am waiting for a price from another guy.

How did you get 20% off??

Keep us up to date man! Seriously hope it solves the problem hey!!

 

[Wolverine]

Try testing the motor by putting direct power to it...if the motor spins, you know it's working...if it doesnt, then you can be sure it's stuck.
It should work on the same principle as any other motor if im correct.

Bought a new valvetronic motor from SMG Durban today, R2648 after asking for 20 % discount (normal price R3300)

Going to have it fitted and programmed tomorrow.

I got a quote from the bmw dealer today at R3150.
And am waiting for a price from another guy.

How did you get 20% off??

Keep us up to date man! Seriously hope it solves the problem hey!!

---

You have to ask for the 20% discount or they'll never give it to you. If you in Durban, take a trip to SMG Durban and ask for Neeren in the parts dept.

Tell hime you want the part and to also load the discount or you.

Whatever you do, don't even think of chucking a second hand valvetronic in there..you'll never start the car.

My car is going in at 8am tomorrow. Will keep you guys posted.

---

Hi Tai,

I'm having my valvetronic motor replaced tomorrow. Will keep you guys updated.

What symtom's is your car displaying Tai? If not that serious it may just be a vacuum leak of air mass meter? Do you know how to test or these bro?

These N42 engines can be like women at times...can make you cry! except they can't talk!:blab:

HAHA... well I have had a few occasions where my car bogs down and coughs when pulling away. And once again, NO CODES WHATSOEVER. It also makes a vibrating noise when climbing those first rpms, after 2500 its smooth.
Then a bit of rough idle here and there(which I am guessing could be the recall bremi ignition coils lossing spark) and intermittent white-ish blue-ish smoke plumes from the exhaust. Oh and a permanent petrol smell :yuck:

I'd love to hear good news from you because my N42 has 260000 on the clock and is starting to ask me for some love.

---

Oh the balloon over the dipstick tube should suck in a bit to show your vacuum is good, mine checked out good here. also a plastic bag over the oil filler cap should suck in, have'nt tried this one yet.

Air flow meter, if faulty you unplug and idle should stabilise. Tried this a while back and no difference for me.

---

---

Beleive that the valvetronic does display some of those symptoms, ie: dead spots on take off between 700 - 2000 rpm. Try parking on a decline and reversing, you may get no power at all!

Ignition coils can cause rough idle but will also cause the car to miss...have them tested.

- Remove the tappit cover and start the car..then as the car is idleing pull out each coil plug from the supressor. The idle should get very rough...if this happens then your coil if fine.

- If you remove the plug and it has no effect on the idle, then the plug is shot. (Bremi is a good after market part, made in Germany i believe)

The smoke from your exhaust system could be condensation thats burning out..does water also spray out from your exhaust pipe? Take the car for a drive but using low gears, this generally burns out the vapour in the exhaust system.

You may not want to hear this but if the smoke has a ting of blu in it, it's most probably taking oil..any oil loss noticed?

The rich petrol smell is also a characteristic of the valvtronic motor. Remember these engines dont have idle control valves on them..the valvetronic does that job. Like in my case, if you take a plug out, you may find it wet with petrol...reason is that the fuel is going into the chamber but no air to burn it (air+fuel=combustion)

If the airflow meter is faulty and you unplug, it wont have any effect on the idle...but if its fine and you unplug then idle will jump all over.

Hope this info helps guys, im not a mac but this is what I have learnt about these engines.

 

[tai88]

Try testing the motor by putting direct power to it...if the motor spins, you know it's working...if it doesnt, then you can be sure it's stuck.
It should work on the same principle as any other motor if im correct.

Bought a new valvetronic motor from SMG Durban today, R2648 after asking for 20 % discount (normal price R3300)

Going to have it fitted and programmed tomorrow.

I got a quote from the bmw dealer today at R3150.
And am waiting for a price from another guy.

How did you get 20% off??

Keep us up to date man! Seriously hope it solves the problem hey!!

---

You have to ask for the 20% discount or they'll never give it to you. If you in Durban, take a trip to SMG Durban and ask for Neeren in the parts dept.

Tell hime you want the part and to also load the discount or you.

Whatever you do, don't even think of chucking a second hand valvetronic in there..you'll never start the car.

My car is going in at 8am tomorrow. Will keep you guys posted.

---

Hi Tai,

I'm having my valvetronic motor replaced tomorrow. Will keep you guys updated.

What symtom's is your car displaying Tai? If not that serious it may just be a vacuum leak of air mass meter? Do you know how to test or these bro?

These N42 engines can be like women at times...can make you cry! except they can't talk!:blab:

HAHA... well I have had a few occasions where my car bogs down and coughs when pulling away. And once again, NO CODES WHATSOEVER. It also makes a vibrating noise when climbing those first rpms, after 2500 its smooth.
Then a bit of rough idle here and there(which I am guessing could be the recall bremi ignition coils lossing spark) and intermittent white-ish blue-ish smoke plumes from the exhaust. Oh and a permanent petrol smell :yuck:

I'd love to hear good news from you because my N42 has 260000 on the clock and is starting to ask me for some love.

---

Oh the balloon over the dipstick tube should suck in a bit to show your vacuum is good, mine checked out good here. also a plastic bag over the oil filler cap should suck in, have'nt tried this one yet.

Air flow meter, if faulty you unplug and idle should stabilise. Tried this a while back and no difference for me.

---

---

- If you remove the plug and it has no effect on the idle, then the plug is shot. (Bremi is a good after market part, made in Germany i believe)

The smoke from your exhaust system could be condensation thats burning out..does water also spray out from your exhaust pipe? Take the car for a drive but using low gears, this generally burns out the vapour in the exhaust system.

You may not want to hear this but if the smoke has a ting of blu in it, it's most probably taking oil..any oil loss noticed?

The rich petrol smell is also a characteristic of the valvtronic motor. Remember these engines dont have idle control valves on them..the valvetronic does that job. Like in my case, if you take a plug out, you may find it wet with petrol...reason is that the fuel is going into the chamber but no air to burn it (air+fuel=combustion)

Hope this info helps guys, im not a mac but this is what I have learnt about these engines.

---

---

---

---

I doubt the smoke is vapour because I drive this car on the highways daily, anywhere from 30-200 km per day.

The bremi ignition coils have been recalled in some countries, so I'm going to wrap them in 3m rubber tape to see if it makes a difference before I go out and buy bosch coils.

It doesn't seem to be burning oil, maybe it is but only small amounts? because my oil level hasn't dropped yet.. well atleast not from what I can see..

Do you think that maybe since I replaced the CCV 500km ago there is some gunk that needs to be cleared through?

Thank you so much you are a very informed individual!

 

[Yuvan]

Hope it gets sorted brother!!!

 

[tai88]

HAHA I just realised I'm kindof thread jacking.. I'll stop

My bad :sorry:

 

[Wolverine]

Try testing the motor by putting direct power to it...if the motor spins, you know it's working...if it doesnt, then you can be sure it's stuck.
It should work on the same principle as any other motor if im correct.

Bought a new valvetronic motor from SMG Durban today, R2648 after asking for 20 % discount (normal price R3300)

Going to have it fitted and programmed tomorrow.

I got a quote from the bmw dealer today at R3150.
And am waiting for a price from another guy.

How did you get 20% off??

Keep us up to date man! Seriously hope it solves the problem hey!!

---

You have to ask for the 20% discount or they'll never give it to you. If you in Durban, take a trip to SMG Durban and ask for Neeren in the parts dept.

Tell hime you want the part and to also load the discount or you.

Whatever you do, don't even think of chucking a second hand valvetronic in there..you'll never start the car.

My car is going in at 8am tomorrow. Will keep you guys posted.

---

Hi Tai,

I'm having my valvetronic motor replaced tomorrow. Will keep you guys updated.

What symtom's is your car displaying Tai? If not that serious it may just be a vacuum leak of air mass meter? Do you know how to test or these bro?

These N42 engines can be like women at times...can make you cry! except they can't talk!:blab:

HAHA... well I have had a few occasions where my car bogs down and coughs when pulling away. And once again, NO CODES WHATSOEVER. It also makes a vibrating noise when climbing those first rpms, after 2500 its smooth.
Then a bit of rough idle here and there(which I am guessing could be the recall bremi ignition coils lossing spark) and intermittent white-ish blue-ish smoke plumes from the exhaust. Oh and a permanent petrol smell :yuck:

I'd love to hear good news from you because my N42 has 260000 on the clock and is starting to ask me for some love.

---

Oh the balloon over the dipstick tube should suck in a bit to show your vacuum is good, mine checked out good here. also a plastic bag over the oil filler cap should suck in, have'nt tried this one yet.

Air flow meter, if faulty you unplug and idle should stabilise. Tried this a while back and no difference for me.

---

---

- If you remove the plug and it has no effect on the idle, then the plug is shot. (Bremi is a good after market part, made in Germany i believe)

The smoke from your exhaust system could be condensation thats burning out..does water also spray out from your exhaust pipe? Take the car for a drive but using low gears, this generally burns out the vapour in the exhaust system.

You may not want to hear this but if the smoke has a ting of blu in it, it's most probably taking oil..any oil loss noticed?

The rich petrol smell is also a characteristic of the valvtronic motor. Remember these engines dont have idle control valves on them..the valvetronic does that job. Like in my case, if you take a plug out, you may find it wet with petrol...reason is that the fuel is going into the chamber but no air to burn it (air+fuel=combustion)

Hope this info helps guys, im not a mac but this is what I have learnt about these engines.

---

---

---

---

I doubt the smoke is vapour because I drive this car on the highways daily, anywhere from 30-200 km per day.

The bremi ignition coils have been recalled in some countries, so I'm going to wrap them in 3m rubber tape to see if it makes a difference before I go out and buy bosch coils.

It doesn't seem to be burning oil, maybe it is but only small amounts? because my oil level hasn't dropped yet.. well atleast not from what I can see..

Do you think that maybe since I replaced the CCV 500km ago there is some gunk that needs to be cleared through?

Thank you so much you are a very informed individual!

---

---

---

---

---

Check the breather pipe from the CCV to the intake manifold. This is found under the plasic cover on the right hand top of the engine.

This breather pipe becomes moist with oil and vapours over time and basically breaks apart. If the car is idleing and you pull the pipe out (the end leading into the intake - you'll see grey'ish' black smoke puffing out - is this similar to what you see coming out of your exhaust? (The car will switch off as soon as you pull this breather piper out)

If you going for Bosch coils, which are the best, try Goldwagon, they now stock a wide range of BMW parts and rather reasonable on prices.

One more thing, if your car has accessive oil in it...then it will smoke a bit till it burns off...how long have you been having this smoking problem for?:=):

 

[Wolverine]

Guy's...great news!! Had my valvetronic motor changed this morning and the car is 100%

Starts on the turn and idle smoothened out :joy:

Thanks for all the all the help and info that you have posted on this forum:ty:

 

[tai88]

---

Check the breather pipe from the CCV to the intake manifold. This is found under the plasic cover on the right hand top of the engine.

This breather pipe becomes moist with oil and vapours over time and basically breaks apart. If the car is idleing and you pull the pipe out (the end leading into the intake - you'll see grey'ish' black smoke puffing out - is this similar to what you see coming out of your exhaust? (The car will switch off as soon as you pull this breather piper out)

If you going for Bosch coils, which are the best, try Goldwagon, they now stock a wide range of BMW parts and rather reasonable on prices.

One more thing, if your car has accessive oil in it...then it will smoke a bit till it burns off...how long have you been having this smoking problem for?:=):
[/quote]

you mean the pipe that is wrapped in a soft plastic cover.. leading in to the top of the CCV.. I replaced it too, it had colapsed :O

it's a whitish blue smoke, hasn't been smoking for long or maybe it has but I've have'nt seen it for long, because it's intermittent.

My Oil is still on full, after about 500 to 1000 km... I have no idea what it's burning :flyfun: But I wont rule out oil yet, I think maybe you are right and maybe I did over fill it.

Glad to hear you car is sorted!!!!

What does the valvetronic motor look like, and you test it with mains?

 

[Wolverine]

---

Check the breather pipe from the CCV to the intake manifold. This is found under the plasic cover on the right hand top of the engine.

This breather pipe becomes moist with oil and vapours over time and basically breaks apart. If the car is idleing and you pull the pipe out (the end leading into the intake - you'll see grey'ish' black smoke puffing out - is this similar to what you see coming out of your exhaust? (The car will switch off as soon as you pull this breather piper out)

If you going for Bosch coils, which are the best, try Goldwagon, they now stock a wide range of BMW parts and rather reasonable on prices.

One more thing, if your car has accessive oil in it...then it will smoke a bit till it burns off...how long have you been having this smoking problem for?:=):

---

you mean the pipe that is wrapped in a soft plastic cover.. leading in to the top of the CCV.. I replaced it too, it had colapsed :O

it's a whitish blue smoke, hasn't been smoking for long or maybe it has but I've have'nt seen it for long, because it's intermittent.

My Oil is still on full, after about 500 to 1000 km... I have no idea what it's burning :flyfun: But I wont rule out oil yet, I think maybe you are right and maybe I did over fill it.

Glad to hear you car is sorted!!!!

What does the valvetronic motor look like, and you test it with mains?
[/quote]

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The valvetronic is a cylinder shaped thingy, silver in colour that is found near you coils.

You can tes this just like any other motor.
Pull the plug out from the valvtronic.
Get 2 pieces of cord.
Connect one to the positive terminal of the motor.
Connect the other to the negavitive.
Attach the negative to any silver bolt on you engine.
Touch the positive to your battery terminal in the engine bay.

Your valvetronic motor should spin, you will be able to hear it.
If it doesn't then chances are it's cooked (stuck closed causing your valves not to open)

Also swop the terminals around when testing.

Hope that helps.

 

[tai88]

Thanks

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AZ72&mospid=47632&btnr=11_3296&hg=11&fg=15

Is it the "actuator" on the link?

 

[Wolverine]

It's the actuator. It's rather simple to replace but needs it's limits to be set which can only be done if you have the software for it and the GT1 dianostic tool.

 

[tai88]

Ok I see.... So It won't damaged it if I test right.. I think mine is starting to seize, there is a noise coming from around the area it is located.

$253
R3000

 

[Wolverine]

The part is R2468 from BMW SMG Durban but you must ask for the 20% discount or they'll sell the part to you for R3300.

Do you hear a 'grrrrrrrrr' noise when you start up your car?

Give me a list of symptoms that your car is giving...lets see what we can come up with

 

[tai88]

The part is R2468 from BMW SMG Durban but you must ask for the 20% discount or they'll sell the part to you for R3300.

Do you hear a 'grrrrrrrrr' noise when you start up your car?

Give me a list of symptoms that your car is giving...lets see what we can come up with

YES! GRRRRRRRR :bangdesk: that's exactly the noise... when I rev hard it goes away then when the rpms start to drop from the rev it comes back. it also slugs a bit when moving from a standstill.

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Also I suppose BMW is the only place you can trust to set the limits correct right?