VANOS woes

[pi328]

Been having some idling issues the past few weeks, where my car would just cut out at times, or idle very low, nearly dying, when having to stop e.g. at traffic lights. I could also feel that something is not quite right, as if the car was hesitating or losing power for a few milliseconds at a time. Got it back today after a major service and was told that it's the VANOS that's busted and that this part is only available at BMW shops for "only" R10573, plus 7h of labor to install it all. Any other options, or second opinions? Thanks.

1996 E36 328i 290000km, Cape Town.

 

[rick540]

If you are good with DIY, remove the thing, clean and change all the seals it's just a hydraulic device that leaks or get's dirty/blocked.....or is it like physically broken busted?

 

[pi328]

What I know about cars is dangerous, so I'm looking for someone or some company that can take a closer look. Not entirely sure what's wrong with it. They had the car on the dyno and the computer indicated that the problem is with the VANOS. So I have no idea what part of it is busted/not working right. Will phone the service company (Steve's Auto Clinic) tomorrow and attempt to get more details.

 

[whattingh]

read biton this:
http://www.beisansystems.com/

and maybe speak too freerider. Know he sell refurbished double vanos not sure if he deals with single vanos too.

 

[rick540]

I see you are in CT, phone a guy called Frank at Helder autotech here in Somerset West, (021) 852-5286 ask him what a VANOS seal rebuild will cost. I think this would be your cheapest option and he knows his stuff.

 

[zaleonardz]

Well, your first issue there is the Steve's auto clinic park....


Where are you based, maybe we can recommend somebody better. But Rick is perfectly correct, its usually just seals that need to be done,

Kits are easy to get as well.

 

[pi328]

@whattingh: yes, that description sounds like what I'm experiencing, but I guess they're a bit too far away to be able to help me.

@rick540: thanks for the pointer, will phone in the morning.

@zaleonardz: Cape Town based as per first post, or northern suburbs to be more specific. But have Garmin, will travel, as long as it's in the general Cape Town/WC area.

 

[moranor@axis]

freerider is in CPT if im not mistaken

 

[gconry18]

Freerider is in tableview. @pi328, when you get prices for a seal rebuild please let me know. I'm thinking it would be some good preventative maintenance.

 

[Tigger]

gconry18 i'm in, so keep me up to date.

thx

 

[pi328]

Have sent Freerider a PM. Will post my findings on this thread, once I have some...

 

[freerider]

Hey there,

Sorry I'm only replying now, been so busy at the office and with studies on the go again...

I dont feel that I have the expertise to work on the single vanos units, as the timing has to be locked etc which I definitely do not want to mess up. :mmm:

For the single vanos unit, your best bet is probably drvanos.com

 

[pi328]

Update: VANOS has been cleaned, but problem persists, and it's a lot worse during cold starts, when it refuses to idle properly and cuts out a lot for the first half minute or so. I've been told the lack of idling is due to the breather sucking air from outside, instead of only allowing air to leave? Once the engine is warm, the idling problem isn't quite as bad, but still enough to annoy me.

First half minute time-frame could also point fingers to the wrong oil? I've been using Castrol high mileage 20W50, but I've been advised to rather go for 5W30, eg. Shell Helix or Mobil?

I've also noticed yesterday per chance that the butterfly valve flap in the dual exhaust is not closed during idling. Surely this should only open at higher revs? Any relationship to idling, or entirely unrelated?

 

[gizmowp]

are you sure its the vanos?

could be coil issues and / or faulty idling switch?

but if you losing power then it most probably is your vanos>?

any diagnostic error codes?

 

[moranor@axis]

this could be plenty of things... do you have a list of codes?

 

[pi328]

When I reported the idling issue originally, the BMW diagnostics wossname said it's due to a VANOS fault. BMW dealer confirmed the VANOS fault and quoted me on a new one. I declined their offer (VANOS unit alone is R8400+) and had the VANOS cleaned. It felt better on day 1 when the car was warm, started hakking again on day 2 and the cold start issue started a day or so after that. The hakking is the best way I can describe it: when travelling at low revs (doing 60km/h in 4th or 5th), I can feel the car doing mini lurches. When doing 60km/h in 3rd, I can't feel it, nor at higher revs, nor on the open road. Cutting out: when coming to a stop at a traffic light and engaging the clutch before stopping, the revs drops to very close to 0 and then hunts around between that and 1000rpm, ie. not idling at a constant rate. Aircon is switched off, so it's not that causing it. Also, during cold start, the revs would sometimes jump to 2000rpm without me touching the pedal and then slowly drop down to normal, which seems to be about 600-650rpm at present, which apparently is a bit too low. It's running perfectly at higher revs or on the open road; it's just the low revs and idling that drives me to tears.

 

[moranor@axis]

i would have the codes read again and see what comes up...

 

[rhett325]

Well I had similar problems with my auto 328i also 1996. Wouldnt idle, hunting etc etc.
After extensive trouble shooting found a small vacuum pipe busted, the end fix cost only R150!! Trouble shooting cost well over R2k!

Get someone to take the inake manifold off and check each and every vacuum hose.

DO the brakes feel stiff at low speed? Hard pedal feel?

 

[Sankekur]

Vacuum leak? Cam position sensor?

 

[Beast_Power]

I agree, if you are getting Vanos errors, could be a faulty CPS !