Tuning F30 320i

[HIRRS-ZN]

Does anyone have experience with Race chip?

https://racechip.co.za/shop/bmw-1/3-series-f30-31-34-from-2011/320i-184-hp-135-kw-1997-ccm.html

It's less expensive than the JB4, also seems to show a healthy power increase and can be removed if I need to service my car or sell it as stock.

It’s a stage 1 chip. Similar to dte chip tuning. I had the dte and got beat by a lot of cars on a roll.

When I switched to Jb4 those same cars couldn’t keep up with me on a roll.

Line races are different. But if u a racer. You would know the vw’s only like roll well except for the 4 wheel drive like the 7r. But even the 7r on a roll I should finish them




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Samo135]

Hi buddy what year F30 320i is yours? The 2012 to early 2013 has a weaker crankshaft design and cam chain guides. If yours is an early model, ensure you do the u float test with bmw and make sure they have upgraded your cam chain guides and tensioners. They caught it too late on my 2012 328. I had like 2 weeks left on my plan. Bmw had to replace the motor. My car was on 96000kms
They also caught it too late on my brothers 320i. His car also a 2012 but with 50k on the clock.
Me personally. I wouldn't mod these cars. I sold mine after the engine swap.

Ps the new range of race chips are good. Perfect for stage 1 power if you really want too.
Good luck with your decision.
I decided to get a F56 jcw.. Makes the right exhaust notes from factory. You are not going to get that N20 to sound nice... Unless you replace the whole exhaust system.

 

[Sherwin@xcede]

Does anyone have experience with Race chip?

https://racechip.co.za/shop/bmw-1/3-series-f30-31-34-from-2011/320i-184-hp-135-kw-1997-ccm.html

It's less expensive than the JB4, also seems to show a healthy power increase and can be removed if I need to service my car or sell it as stock.

Yes RaceChip is the right solution.

 

[Olorin]

Hi buddy what year F30 320i is yours? The 2012 to early 2013 has a weaker crankshaft design and cam chain guides. If yours is an early model, ensure you do the u float test with bmw and make sure they have upgraded your cam chain guides and tensioners. They caught it too late on my 2012 328. I had like 2 weeks left on my plan. Bmw had to replace the motor. My car was on 96000kms
They also caught it too late on my brothers 320i. His car also a 2012 but with 50k on the clock.
Me personally. I wouldn't mod these cars. I sold mine after the engine swap.

Ps the new range of race chips are good. Perfect for stage 1 power if you really want too.
Good luck with your decision.
I decided to get a F56 jcw.. Makes the right exhaust notes from factory. You are not going to get that N20 to sound nice... Unless you replace the whole exhaust system.

It's a 2013 registration, but manufactured in 2012. My service lights tell me I need to service in 18000 km. Cam chain guides and tensioners? Are they expensive to replace? What is a float test?

 

[FerdiBotha]

It's a 2013 registration, but manufactured in 2012. My service lights tell me I need to service in 18000 km. Cam chain guides and tensioners? Are they expensive to replace?

The fact that you “need to service” in 18 000km is very alarming. Not only because you plan on modding, but also because your car has an N20 motor in.

Your service intervals really shouldn’t exceed 10 000km, regardless of what the OBC tells you.

Some reading - http://www.tunetech.co.za/n20-engine-problems-right-motorplan/

 

[KPM3_30]

It's a 2013 registration, but manufactured in 2012. My service lights tell me I need to service in 18000 km. Cam chain guides and tensioners? Are they expensive to replace?

The fact that you “need to service” in 18 000km is very alarming. Not only because you plan on modding, but also because your car has an N20 motor in.

Your service intervals really shouldn’t exceed 10 000km, regardless of what the OBC tells you.

Some reading - http://www.tunetech.co.za/n20-engine-problems-right-motorplan/

Agreed.. Especially after what I've seen first-hand, with sludge build-up on the N20's, I would definitely service every 10k if I owned it under plan. If I had run standard intervals, the first few changes would be after 5k.. I had attached the same article to a previous post, along with another from the forum. Hopefully the OP took notice of that.

@Olorin, as I mentioned earlier in this thread, make sure your car is 100% mechanically sound before you try to squeeze out more power, as these engines are known to have issues, on stock power.. All well and good to ask for advice, but don't use bits and pieces of the advice selectively, to make such a big decision.. Read and research more widely before you decide.

 

[Carbon]

How about 230kw?

http://www.xcedeperformance.co.za/2014/11/taking-the-f30-320i-to-230kw/

Sent from my SM-J600F using Tapatalk

 

[HIRRS-ZN]

Maybe you guys had bad experiences with the N20.

But my 2015 F30 320i EWG I had from 1900kms till 96000km and serviced only at the normal intervals. BMW won’t service the car early under the plan. You will have to pay separately for that.

I ran the car hard well over 200wkw with no issues at all.

N20 motor is strong if taken care and tuned within its means.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[yush1]

Maybe you guys had bad experiences with the N20.

But my 2015 F30 320i EWG I had from 1900kms till 96000km and serviced only at the normal intervals. BMW won’t service the car early under the plan. You will have to pay separately for that.

I ran the car hard well over 200wkw with no issues at all.

N20 motor is strong if taken care and tuned within its means.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Remember, the guys are not saying they all break down. They are looking at the general reliability based on the number of problems people have. Even the best engines suffer failures.

 

[HIRRS-ZN]

Maybe you guys had bad experiences with the N20.

But my 2015 F30 320i EWG I had from 1900kms till 96000km and serviced only at the normal intervals. BMW won’t service the car early under the plan. You will have to pay separately for that.

I ran the car hard well over 200wkw with no issues at all.

N20 motor is strong if taken care and tuned within its means.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Remember, the guys are not saying they all break down. They are looking at the general reliability based on the number of problems people have. Even the best engines suffer failures.

For sure. Mechanical failures happen. But if U have MP. Then you safe


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Olorin]

It's a 2013 registration, but manufactured in 2012. My service lights tell me I need to service in 18000 km. Cam chain guides and tensioners? Are they expensive to replace?

The fact that you “need to service” in 18 000km is very alarming. Not only because you plan on modding, but also because your car has an N20 motor in.

Your service intervals really shouldn’t exceed 10 000km, regardless of what the OBC tells you.

Some reading - http://www.tunetech.co.za/n20-engine-problems-right-motorplan/

Thanks for this. My last service was in August 2017, and I don't drive a lot.

I'm going to make an appointment to have the car serviced in November. I would have driven about 11000 km. I want to make sure this car is taken care of.

My last service was under plan - motorplan expired after that so I took an extended "motor plan" from SMG, although it isn't a motor plan per se, a third party one that covers me for all mechanical related issues until September 2019.

So you don't recommend I tune the car at all, or only if I service every 10000km, or should I just remove all thoughts of tuning?

 

[FerdiBotha]

Thanks for this. My last service was in August 2017, and I don't drive a lot.


So you don't recommend I tune the car at all, or only if I service every 10000km, or should I just remove all thoughts of tuning?

You should service in 1 year/10 000km (whichever comes first) intervals.

It’s impossible to say whether you car will be safe to mod or not.

A mech will have to check it out to give you peace of mind before modding or you could always mod and hope nothing goes wrong.

Personally I would get a mech to give the car a proper once over simply because it is a motor that could potentially be problematic. If the mech says all is good, then there is no reason not to mod.

 

[Olorin]

Thanks for this. My last service was in August 2017, and I don't drive a lot.


So you don't recommend I tune the car at all, or only if I service every 10000km, or should I just remove all thoughts of tuning?

You should service in 1 year/10 000km (whichever comes first) intervals.

It’s impossible to say whether you car will be safe to mod or not.

A mech will have to check it out to give you peace of mind before modding or you could always mod and hope nothing goes wrong.

Personally I would get a mech to give the car a proper once over simply because it is a motor that could potentially be problematic. If the mech says all is good, then there is no reason not to mod.

I phoned SMG and spoke to one of the service guys. He said to me that they can't check engine sludge ... without having to strip, and if there is sludge then it's already too late. He said it's impossible to clean - by that stage, I would need a new engine.

However he said that if the car was his, he would also service every 10000 km.

I have an auto..... now I'm not a mechanic, so I don't know what I should ask them to check or inspect while the car is taken in for a service so when you say a proper once over, I think I might have to be specific with SMG otherwise I think they won't do anything.

 

[Samo135]

The float test, bmw checks the degree of movement on your crankshaft. If there's too much movement, then there is an issue. Your chain guides should have been retrofitted to the revised ones found on the later models. If you open your oil cap and shine a light down there, you will see the cam chain. Look for scorching or abrasions. Mine had it, along with a high pitched whining noise which I reported to bmw on several occasions.

If you had a 2014 model plus. You would have more peace of mind. But I wouldn't mod the earlier models.

 

[Olorin]

The float test, bmw checks the degree of movement on your crankshaft. If there's too much movement, then there is an issue. Your chain guides should have been retrofitted to the revised ones found on the later models. If you open your oil cap and shine a light down there, you will see the cam chain. Look for scorching or abrasions. Mine had it, along with a high pitched whining noise which I reported to bmw on several occasions.

If you had a 2014 model plus. You would have more peace of mind. But I wouldn't mod the earlier models.

Thanks Samo. I've noticed my car has a very high pitched whining noise that is very intermittent. It comes and goes.

It might not be the issue you bring up, but thought I might mention it. Taking the car into SMG tomorrow.

Then the service will be done in November. All I know is that I can't stand the power delivery of this car anymore hence the need to do a software (stage 1) for now, with a downpipe later for stage 2.

Software will only cost me around R5500, but based on my research can bring the power to about 160wkw or thereabouts for stage 1. Car is about 125wkw right now.

 

[LukeHawk]

The float test, bmw checks the degree of movement on your crankshaft. If there's too much movement, then there is an issue. Your chain guides should have been retrofitted to the revised ones found on the later models. If you open your oil cap and shine a light down there, you will see the cam chain. Look for scorching or abrasions. Mine had it, along with a high pitched whining noise which I reported to bmw on several occasions.

If you had a 2014 model plus. You would have more peace of mind. But I wouldn't mod the earlier models.

Thanks Samo. I've noticed my car has a very high pitched whining noise that is very intermittent. It comes and goes.

It might not be the issue you bring up, but thought I might mention it. Taking the car into SMG tomorrow.

Then the service will be done in November. All I know is that I can't stand the power delivery of this car anymore hence the need to do a software (stage 1) for now, with a downpipe later for stage 2.

Software will only cost me around R5500, but based on my research can bring the power to about 160wkw or thereabouts for stage 1. Car is about 125wkw right now.

I had a similar thing. When auto stop/start was engaged, and I got to a robot, just before the auto stop kicked in, my car would whistle. Suspected timing chain and guides, got it checked out.. they found nothing wrong though.. quoted me to replace them down the line, if I want to.
Anyway, been months since then, and the problem never came back. Granted, I dont use auto stop/start any more.

 

[Samo135]

Driving my brothers 320i to my 328i. I found you had to work the 320i alot harder and I also missed the extra torque. My consumption was actually lower than his.. Probably because of the better torque curve..

 

[Olorin]

The float test, bmw checks the degree of movement on your crankshaft. If there's too much movement, then there is an issue. Your chain guides should have been retrofitted to the revised ones found on the later models. If you open your oil cap and shine a light down there, you will see the cam chain. Look for scorching or abrasions. Mine had it, along with a high pitched whining noise which I reported to bmw on several occasions.

If you had a 2014 model plus. You would have more peace of mind. But I wouldn't mod the earlier models.

Thanks Samo. I've noticed my car has a very high pitched whining noise that is very intermittent. It comes and goes.

It might not be the issue you bring up, but thought I might mention it. Taking the car into SMG tomorrow.

Then the service will be done in November. All I know is that I can't stand the power delivery of this car anymore hence the need to do a software (stage 1) for now, with a downpipe later for stage 2.

Software will only cost me around R5500, but based on my research can bring the power to about 160wkw or thereabouts for stage 1. Car is about 125wkw right now.

I had a similar thing. When auto stop/start was engaged, and I got to a robot, just before the auto stop kicked in, my car would whistle. Suspected timing chain and guides, got it checked out.. they found nothing wrong though.. quoted me to replace them down the line, if I want to.
Anyway, been months since then, and the problem never came back. Granted, I dont use auto stop/start any more.

To be clear, the high pitched sound does not happen when the car comes to a halt. It happens while driving - when it happens it might last for 3-4 seconds then it goes away ...

---

Driving my brothers 320i to my 328i. I found you had to work the 320i alot harder and I also missed the extra torque. My consumption was actually lower than his.. Probably because of the better torque curve..

My brain is being pulled in so many directions at the moment. Part of me wants to go the JB4 route, just because it can be taken out.

If I do software and downpipe later, I can't just reinstall the software later without paying another R5500K, so the JB4 has maybe more value than just doing a software - not because of all the other functions, but because I can use it on my next car, whatever it might be.

The whole software/downpipe might bring about more gain, but it costs more if I decide to sell and buy a newer car later, so there are compromises there.

I think, depending on the general car health I can make a more informed decision. I know my turbos (and associated mechanical bits and bobs) were replaced under motor plan, so I have brand new turbos and connecting mechanical bits that should last me a long time.

I'll just have to ask the BMW technician to check the other bits in the car to see if everything is in good working order.

 

[HIRRS-ZN]

The float test, bmw checks the degree of movement on your crankshaft. If there's too much movement, then there is an issue. Your chain guides should have been retrofitted to the revised ones found on the later models. If you open your oil cap and shine a light down there, you will see the cam chain. Look for scorching or abrasions. Mine had it, along with a high pitched whining noise which I reported to bmw on several occasions.

If you had a 2014 model plus. You would have more peace of mind. But I wouldn't mod the earlier models.

Thanks Samo. I've noticed my car has a very high pitched whining noise that is very intermittent. It comes and goes.

It might not be the issue you bring up, but thought I might mention it. Taking the car into SMG tomorrow.

Then the service will be done in November. All I know is that I can't stand the power delivery of this car anymore hence the need to do a software (stage 1) for now, with a downpipe later for stage 2.

Software will only cost me around R5500, but based on my research can bring the power to about 160wkw or thereabouts for stage 1. Car is about 125wkw right now.

I had a similar thing. When auto stop/start was engaged, and I got to a robot, just before the auto stop kicked in, my car would whistle. Suspected timing chain and guides, got it checked out.. they found nothing wrong though.. quoted me to replace them down the line, if I want to.
Anyway, been months since then, and the problem never came back. Granted, I dont use auto stop/start any more.

To be clear, the high pitched sound does not happen when the car comes to a halt. It happens while driving - when it happens it might last for 3-4 seconds then it goes away ...

---

Driving my brothers 320i to my 328i. I found you had to work the 320i alot harder and I also missed the extra torque. My consumption was actually lower than his.. Probably because of the better torque curve..

My brain is being pulled in so many directions at the moment. Part of me wants to go the JB4 route, just because it can be taken out.

If I do software and downpipe later, I can't just reinstall the software later without paying another R5500K, so the JB4 has maybe more value than just doing a software - not because of all the other functions, but because I can use it on my next car, whatever it might be.

The whole software/downpipe might bring about more gain, but it costs more if I decide to sell and buy a newer car later, so there are compromises there.

I think, depending on the general car health I can make a more informed decision. I know my turbos (and associated mechanical bits and bobs) were replaced under motor plan, so I have brand new turbos and connecting mechanical bits that should last me a long time.

I'll just have to ask the BMW technician to check the other bits in the car to see if everything is in good working order.

---

The JB4 is waiting for you bro


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Samo135]

Or get a 2014 328i and Jb4 that.. Then you have stock 335i power on a lighter car.. 328i has the right compression for more boost. Stronger internals, better cooling. And you starting out with 180kw and 350nm already...