General.Massacre
///Member
No worries, yea lets grab a beer and catch up, make up a time this weekend, maybe saturday evening, just reach out to me, i have class on saturday, so open in the late afternoon
-
Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
The General's F13 M6 Coupe
- Thread starter General.Massacre
- Start date
Meep
Active member
check the comfort access modules in the handles for the battery drain issue, i've read that they can cause problems as they age
General.Massacre
///Member
Howsit, already done that, showed it a few posts back, not the cause of the drain.
Meep
Active member
ah didn't see that post, if your car is equipped with soft close it could also be the issue, a family friends x5m had issues with battery drain and his issue was the left rear soft close module/motor
General.Massacre
///Member
Gather round kids, gather round, it's story time...
Lol.
So small update.
The M6's auxiliary coolant pump for the turbos packed up on Saturday while on way to a friend's braai, I was pushing the car and doing some hooning down Witkoppen then saw the Drivetrain error, checked codes and saw it was "Turbo Coolant Pump: Blocked". Now I know it's been making a noise for a while, and I have been meaning to get it replaced. And well, now I had to get it done.
The pump ONLY runs when the car is very very hot, but 90% of the time, the pump is only run when the car is switched off. So I knew driving home from the braai was fine. But as soon as I got her home. The car was parked
I called Peter at JSN and ordered a New pump, 3lt of coolant and a new complete Coolant Return line, as the old one was Gippo'd by the previous shop when doing the engine rebuild it seems, and was leaking ever so slightly, but I decided a complete new pipe with fitting would be the best bet.
I did also order the Coolant Feed line. But that's on back order. So I canceled it. Mine is fine, but I thought why not replace it while I'm there, but seeing as it's not gonna be fitted, no need to keep it on order.
This all got delivered this morning, I did ask for new heat blankets, but Peter forgot and beedless to say they weren't in my delivery. But that's not a train smash I can order them later. I managed to remove the current ones carefully, so I'll just reuse them.
So got to work on the car this afternoon after work.
Old pump out, I had to remove the one time use clamp on the pump side, as I was reusing this line which is the feed line. It's easier to do the job when removing the left charge coolers coolant line on the underside
New pump in, connected and plumbed
Old Return line removed, the offending connector, it doesn't look like the same connector I'm replacing it with, so not sure if it was from another car or from another location, but this one has a bleed screw on the bottom, strange as it's in a location that impossible to access when everything is together, the new line however is a new revised part, and the connector has no bleed screw.
Anyways, out it came, and the new line was installed
Clipped on perfectly and crisp.
I didn't have photo of everything connected as my phone died.
But got everything connected, filled in the coolant/distilled water 50/50 mix in both the Ecu/Charge Cooler tank, and the Engine/Turbo Coolant tank.
I then ran the bleed procedure for the Auxiliary Turbo Coolant Pump, and it was whirring away like a little champ.
Important to know that the S63 has a mechanical main water pump. So the bleed procedure only bleeds the ECU/Charge cooler system. The main coolant system actually needs to be vacuum filled. But that's not any tools I have access to. So filled up the Engine coolant tank very full, which I think was too full, as I was expecting it to go down a fair bit when I ran the motor to operating temp. Needless to say. It didn't. So I had to try remove some coolant as it was getting hotter. Eventually I just put the cap on, and the car ran to operating temp perfect. I was expecting to see a Low Coolant message, but none came up, I believe this is coz I didn't drain the entire system. Only what came out by the water pump Return line.
Anyways, I inspected everywhere for leaks, from the tip 4 hoses, to the connector I replaced, and there was nothing.
So I shut her down, the pump came on as expected and ran for exactly 3min as the manual says it should. Checked for leaks again, and all was dry.
Tomorrow morning I will check the coolant level again. And also put on the heat blankets for the 4 hoses. And everything should be done.
On a bad note, I did notice my Turbo side coolant lines are not all straight, on investigation, they all seem bent in some form or another, here is an example. Note the kink in the line.
Because of this. Not all the lines are perfect straight, there no leaks, bit I can see it's not perfect. I note that the coolant feed and return lines on the turbos are very accessible so I may look at replacing all 4 in the future.
But for now the car is back up and running, and took me all of 2hours to do the job, including faffing about.
Thanks for reading.
Lol.
So small update.
The M6's auxiliary coolant pump for the turbos packed up on Saturday while on way to a friend's braai, I was pushing the car and doing some hooning down Witkoppen then saw the Drivetrain error, checked codes and saw it was "Turbo Coolant Pump: Blocked". Now I know it's been making a noise for a while, and I have been meaning to get it replaced. And well, now I had to get it done.
The pump ONLY runs when the car is very very hot, but 90% of the time, the pump is only run when the car is switched off. So I knew driving home from the braai was fine. But as soon as I got her home. The car was parked
I called Peter at JSN and ordered a New pump, 3lt of coolant and a new complete Coolant Return line, as the old one was Gippo'd by the previous shop when doing the engine rebuild it seems, and was leaking ever so slightly, but I decided a complete new pipe with fitting would be the best bet.
I did also order the Coolant Feed line. But that's on back order. So I canceled it. Mine is fine, but I thought why not replace it while I'm there, but seeing as it's not gonna be fitted, no need to keep it on order.
This all got delivered this morning, I did ask for new heat blankets, but Peter forgot and beedless to say they weren't in my delivery. But that's not a train smash I can order them later. I managed to remove the current ones carefully, so I'll just reuse them.
So got to work on the car this afternoon after work.
Old pump out, I had to remove the one time use clamp on the pump side, as I was reusing this line which is the feed line. It's easier to do the job when removing the left charge coolers coolant line on the underside
New pump in, connected and plumbed
Old Return line removed, the offending connector, it doesn't look like the same connector I'm replacing it with, so not sure if it was from another car or from another location, but this one has a bleed screw on the bottom, strange as it's in a location that impossible to access when everything is together, the new line however is a new revised part, and the connector has no bleed screw.
Anyways, out it came, and the new line was installed
Clipped on perfectly and crisp.
I didn't have photo of everything connected as my phone died.
But got everything connected, filled in the coolant/distilled water 50/50 mix in both the Ecu/Charge Cooler tank, and the Engine/Turbo Coolant tank.
I then ran the bleed procedure for the Auxiliary Turbo Coolant Pump, and it was whirring away like a little champ.
Important to know that the S63 has a mechanical main water pump. So the bleed procedure only bleeds the ECU/Charge cooler system. The main coolant system actually needs to be vacuum filled. But that's not any tools I have access to. So filled up the Engine coolant tank very full, which I think was too full, as I was expecting it to go down a fair bit when I ran the motor to operating temp. Needless to say. It didn't. So I had to try remove some coolant as it was getting hotter. Eventually I just put the cap on, and the car ran to operating temp perfect. I was expecting to see a Low Coolant message, but none came up, I believe this is coz I didn't drain the entire system. Only what came out by the water pump Return line.
Anyways, I inspected everywhere for leaks, from the tip 4 hoses, to the connector I replaced, and there was nothing.
So I shut her down, the pump came on as expected and ran for exactly 3min as the manual says it should. Checked for leaks again, and all was dry.
Tomorrow morning I will check the coolant level again. And also put on the heat blankets for the 4 hoses. And everything should be done.
On a bad note, I did notice my Turbo side coolant lines are not all straight, on investigation, they all seem bent in some form or another, here is an example. Note the kink in the line.
Because of this. Not all the lines are perfect straight, there no leaks, bit I can see it's not perfect. I note that the coolant feed and return lines on the turbos are very accessible so I may look at replacing all 4 in the future.
But for now the car is back up and running, and took me all of 2hours to do the job, including faffing about.
Thanks for reading.
Bugger
///Member
Great work here JD.
Post could've been:
"Coolant pump blocked so this had to be replaced. Took 2hrs. Here's some pics.."
Kidding man. Great write up. Remember doing this on my M5 and that tight space at the front was a PITA to work in. This is also a very good preventative maintenance job to do as those pumps do seem to be prone to failure.
Stop hooning down Witkoppen. You giving us other BMW drivers a bad name 😬🤣
Post could've been:
"Coolant pump blocked so this had to be replaced. Took 2hrs. Here's some pics.."
Kidding man. Great write up. Remember doing this on my M5 and that tight space at the front was a PITA to work in. This is also a very good preventative maintenance job to do as those pumps do seem to be prone to failure.
Stop hooning down Witkoppen. You giving us other BMW drivers a bad name 😬🤣
General.Massacre
///Member
What can i say, im here for the drama
Yea ive ready they are a failure point, but glad its new and sorted. should be good for a long time to come
General.Massacre
///Member
Hiya guys, so a quick update. Quite a big for me.
The drivers side door soft close was never really working right, would always activate then pull back. Then last week the latching stopped all together, even though I could gear the motor actuating, I thought it had broken completely.
So did my research and came across this thread, same issue as mine.
So investigated, and pulled mine apart.
Found that the plastic fitting that holds the bowden cable to the soft close actuator had broken, which seems to be a common issue, so as per the above guide I went and bought some epoxy, and went to work.
I noticed what seems to happen when the plastic end has broken, as the soft close actuates, it's actually slowly threads itself with the metal section under the plastic sheathing, so I threaded it back till there was tension. (It's not an actual thread, so took some time effort to get it threaded back), then used some QBond poured into the silver cable cover guide between that and the plastic, then mixed up some Epoxy, actually @osiris Helped with that, Then applied it to the plastic area to build it up, not as pretty and clean as the above thread showed, but it's not an actual moving part, so just had to hold it in place which it has done. Got everything put back together, and tested it, with a great result, I'm very happy as this has not been working since I first purchased the car. And has been a bug bear for me the whole time. I thought the car door was damaged or misaligned, or that I'd have to spend the 8K that BMW quoted to supply a new part.
Here is the video of it now working. I was a very happy guy when it closed succ3ssfully. I felt like I had just discovered fire. It was a glorious feeling hahaha.
Will give more updates as I do more. But for now, not much really to do on the car.
The drivers side door soft close was never really working right, would always activate then pull back. Then last week the latching stopped all together, even though I could gear the motor actuating, I thought it had broken completely.
So did my research and came across this thread, same issue as mine.
So investigated, and pulled mine apart.
Found that the plastic fitting that holds the bowden cable to the soft close actuator had broken, which seems to be a common issue, so as per the above guide I went and bought some epoxy, and went to work.
I noticed what seems to happen when the plastic end has broken, as the soft close actuates, it's actually slowly threads itself with the metal section under the plastic sheathing, so I threaded it back till there was tension. (It's not an actual thread, so took some time effort to get it threaded back), then used some QBond poured into the silver cable cover guide between that and the plastic, then mixed up some Epoxy, actually @osiris Helped with that, Then applied it to the plastic area to build it up, not as pretty and clean as the above thread showed, but it's not an actual moving part, so just had to hold it in place which it has done. Got everything put back together, and tested it, with a great result, I'm very happy as this has not been working since I first purchased the car. And has been a bug bear for me the whole time. I thought the car door was damaged or misaligned, or that I'd have to spend the 8K that BMW quoted to supply a new part.
Here is the video of it now working. I was a very happy guy when it closed succ3ssfully. I felt like I had just discovered fire. It was a glorious feeling hahaha.
Will give more updates as I do more. But for now, not much really to do on the car.
General.Massacre
///Member
So another update.
After the weekends activities, my happiness was short lived, on the drive to work this morning, I smelt fuel when coming to a stop, and also when I parked my car at the office. This reminded me of back in March when I had a leaking fuel rail which I had replaced with a good second hand unit. So the first thing I did was smell the passenger side. And sure enough, the smell was strongest there. So immediately contacted Peter at JSN BMW and ordered a New fuel rail, to the song of R5300. With my impending trip to CPT looming just a week away. I wanted to take no chances driving a possible M branded Molotov Cocktail.
I received the part, and arrived home in the afternoon. And immediately opened the bonnet and started stripping. Didn't take many pics. Forgive me.
First was the airbox passenger side
Then the bracket for the ECUs that goes over the turbos.
Then the power steering reservoir was loosened and moved aside.
The ECU was disconnected carefully and placed to the side as the coolant lines were still connected.
Once access was available, I unbolted the Wiring harness and moved that to the front to get clear access to the fuel rail.
With this out the way, I immediately checked for Cyl 7, as that was the offending injector and connection last time. And sure enough, it was the same one.
Ypu can see the residue of fuel. And all down the valve cover it had that unmistakable green Unleaded 95 colour.
The bottom pic shows Cyl 7 as the left side injector.
I didn't take anymore pics after this.
But I before putting things back together, I noted a few things. First thing I noticed was the injectors, ypubwill see they each facing toward the centre of the bracket, this is wrong, they should all be pointing to the right, towards the rear of the engine, as there is a recess in the coil pack tuvlbe for the injector and it's plug to sit. Currently, it's rest directly against the coil pack tube. (Right side injector).
Also, I decided to take down the numbers of each injector to check the coding. More on this later.
Now I started to install the fuel rail. Which went on fine. But one thing I made sure to do was follow the installation "procedure" so to speak, by loosening the injector brackets to allow the injectors some play so I can align and screw on the compression fittings, nip them up, then I tightened down the injector brackets in place. I do note that Cyl.7 injector is not the most perfectly aligned injector to the rail line. Which has me concerned. Did I just waste over 5k on a new Fuel rail for no reason? Could I have just removed the original fuel rail. And fitted it better? Although it's not really a chance I was willing to take and test right now. It is sitting on my mind.
Additionally, with some research, I have read of a few people having my issue with the fuel rails, and the cause was injectors being fitted with no Decoupling ring. Which in turn was putting strain on the fitting causing it to leak. So with that said, once in Cape Town l, the plan is to purchase a full set of new Decoupling Rings, and new injector seals, and have them fitted on every injector, ensuring the injectors are correctly orientated, and correctly coded. So that's 2025's job.
Anyways, the replacement went smoothly, before I started the car, I opened ProTool to check the injectors coding, and sure enough. None of them matched. What I believe happening is that when the motor was rebuilt, they did not take note of which cylinder carried which injector, and just fitted them where they pleased. So I coded Bank2 injectors, will have to do Bank1 another time as I'm sure they wrong too.
After the injectors were coded, I reset the adoptions via Protool, which i would of preferred using ISTA, but I didn't feel like getting my laptop, so just used Protool.
The car started up fine. And letting it warm up while I woke up the neighbour's with my cold start. I checked for leaks and funny smells, and none were present, so off I went on a test drive with @osiris as he had come to visit for emotional support, and went for a good drive, and gave the car a push, and when I got home, popped the bonnet, checked for more leaks and smells, and all seems good.
So will be monitoring the car for the rest of the week carefully. But I believe it should be good, for how long tho, is anyone's guess, if the Decoupling elements are indeed an issue. And Cyl7 does not have one, them I have no doubt that this job will need to be done again in the future. So to carry out the preventative maintenance, it will be the best decision.
But for now, this is a good result. The job took me 4hrs, including 1.5hrs cool down time in between. Not bad.
Anyways, that's all for now. ✌️
After the weekends activities, my happiness was short lived, on the drive to work this morning, I smelt fuel when coming to a stop, and also when I parked my car at the office. This reminded me of back in March when I had a leaking fuel rail which I had replaced with a good second hand unit. So the first thing I did was smell the passenger side. And sure enough, the smell was strongest there. So immediately contacted Peter at JSN BMW and ordered a New fuel rail, to the song of R5300. With my impending trip to CPT looming just a week away. I wanted to take no chances driving a possible M branded Molotov Cocktail.
I received the part, and arrived home in the afternoon. And immediately opened the bonnet and started stripping. Didn't take many pics. Forgive me.
First was the airbox passenger side
Then the bracket for the ECUs that goes over the turbos.
Then the power steering reservoir was loosened and moved aside.
The ECU was disconnected carefully and placed to the side as the coolant lines were still connected.
Once access was available, I unbolted the Wiring harness and moved that to the front to get clear access to the fuel rail.
With this out the way, I immediately checked for Cyl 7, as that was the offending injector and connection last time. And sure enough, it was the same one.
Ypu can see the residue of fuel. And all down the valve cover it had that unmistakable green Unleaded 95 colour.
The bottom pic shows Cyl 7 as the left side injector.
I didn't take anymore pics after this.
But I before putting things back together, I noted a few things. First thing I noticed was the injectors, ypubwill see they each facing toward the centre of the bracket, this is wrong, they should all be pointing to the right, towards the rear of the engine, as there is a recess in the coil pack tuvlbe for the injector and it's plug to sit. Currently, it's rest directly against the coil pack tube. (Right side injector).
Also, I decided to take down the numbers of each injector to check the coding. More on this later.
Now I started to install the fuel rail. Which went on fine. But one thing I made sure to do was follow the installation "procedure" so to speak, by loosening the injector brackets to allow the injectors some play so I can align and screw on the compression fittings, nip them up, then I tightened down the injector brackets in place. I do note that Cyl.7 injector is not the most perfectly aligned injector to the rail line. Which has me concerned. Did I just waste over 5k on a new Fuel rail for no reason? Could I have just removed the original fuel rail. And fitted it better? Although it's not really a chance I was willing to take and test right now. It is sitting on my mind.
Additionally, with some research, I have read of a few people having my issue with the fuel rails, and the cause was injectors being fitted with no Decoupling ring. Which in turn was putting strain on the fitting causing it to leak. So with that said, once in Cape Town l, the plan is to purchase a full set of new Decoupling Rings, and new injector seals, and have them fitted on every injector, ensuring the injectors are correctly orientated, and correctly coded. So that's 2025's job.
Anyways, the replacement went smoothly, before I started the car, I opened ProTool to check the injectors coding, and sure enough. None of them matched. What I believe happening is that when the motor was rebuilt, they did not take note of which cylinder carried which injector, and just fitted them where they pleased. So I coded Bank2 injectors, will have to do Bank1 another time as I'm sure they wrong too.
After the injectors were coded, I reset the adoptions via Protool, which i would of preferred using ISTA, but I didn't feel like getting my laptop, so just used Protool.
The car started up fine. And letting it warm up while I woke up the neighbour's with my cold start. I checked for leaks and funny smells, and none were present, so off I went on a test drive with @osiris as he had come to visit for emotional support, and went for a good drive, and gave the car a push, and when I got home, popped the bonnet, checked for more leaks and smells, and all seems good.
So will be monitoring the car for the rest of the week carefully. But I believe it should be good, for how long tho, is anyone's guess, if the Decoupling elements are indeed an issue. And Cyl7 does not have one, them I have no doubt that this job will need to be done again in the future. So to carry out the preventative maintenance, it will be the best decision.
But for now, this is a good result. The job took me 4hrs, including 1.5hrs cool down time in between. Not bad.
Anyways, that's all for now. ✌️
Attachments
TurboLlew
Honorary ///Member
Awesome writeup - glad it is sorted for now (and your project list is filling up for next year LOL).
Important to note for S63tu owners is that BMW will have carried out injector tests on some cars (eg they did this to me) that involves removing the fuel injectors. It is entirely possible that an inexperienced dealer could also put things back wrong (I was not aware they could be inserted facing the wrong way) or miss out pieces (though in this case it was probably the engine builder). They also definitely require coding/matching based on the measured flow (which is part of that coding process).
Having done more DIY work than most years on Neven's cars this year, and seeing the aftermath of 'dealer' or 'random workshop' fixes (as well as how astoundingly simple it would have been and how little cost it would have added to just do things correctly) we should all be checking/double checking ANY work, especially for non-standard fixes or procedures. I will regale you with tales of finger tight wheel bolts on a 600hp car in another thread
Important to note for S63tu owners is that BMW will have carried out injector tests on some cars (eg they did this to me) that involves removing the fuel injectors. It is entirely possible that an inexperienced dealer could also put things back wrong (I was not aware they could be inserted facing the wrong way) or miss out pieces (though in this case it was probably the engine builder). They also definitely require coding/matching based on the measured flow (which is part of that coding process).
Having done more DIY work than most years on Neven's cars this year, and seeing the aftermath of 'dealer' or 'random workshop' fixes (as well as how astoundingly simple it would have been and how little cost it would have added to just do things correctly) we should all be checking/double checking ANY work, especially for non-standard fixes or procedures. I will regale you with tales of finger tight wheel bolts on a 600hp car in another thread
General.Massacre
///Member
Thanks Llew.Awesome writeup - glad it is sorted for now (and your project list is filling up for next year LOL).
Important to note for S63tu owners is that BMW will have carried out injector tests on some cars (eg they did this to me) that involves removing the fuel injectors. It is entirely possible that an inexperienced dealer could also put things back wrong (I was not aware they could be inserted facing the wrong way) or miss out pieces (though in this case it was probably the engine builder). They also definitely require coding/matching based on the measured flow (which is part of that coding process).
Having done more DIY work than most years on Neven's cars this year, and seeing the aftermath of 'dealer' or 'random workshop' fixes (as well as how astoundingly simple it would have been and how little cost it would have added to just do things correctly) we should all be checking/double checking ANY work, especially for non-standard fixes or procedures. I will regale you with tales of finger tight wheel bolts on a 600hp car in another thread
maybe its something i must discuss with BMW in the new year for an injector test, however, im not getting any fueling issues, or misfires of any kind. so dont want to make kak if there isnt any if you know what i mean.
The seals and Decouplers would be the ideal replacement, just for peace of mind and to keep them refreshed. then i know they at least fine. and i can have the coding sorted correctly at least.
But its is evident that the workshop that rebuilt the motor did the basics when assembling, and nothing more. so will have to attend to it.
General.Massacre
///Member
Well just did some errands today, and then smelled by my passenger side fender and there was a faint smell of fuel still, got home just now, and tried to look at the No.7 injector fitting, and still leaking, so I'm going to order a set of decoupler rings and new injector seals, and do this job properly.
So this literally means that the rails I have replaced are all still good 😒 it's been the injector all this time. Well. That's the consensus it looks like.
So will order from JSN and then take it from there. Has to be done.
So this literally means that the rails I have replaced are all still good 😒 it's been the injector all this time. Well. That's the consensus it looks like.
So will order from JSN and then take it from there. Has to be done.
General.Massacre
///Member
Hi all.
So an update here which is overdue, and complicated.
Since the last post, i decided to investigate the issue more, and remove the injector completely.
And while doing that, i also decided to pull all the injectors, replace the seals and decouplers, and correctly orientate the injectors, and recode them.
First thing, was strip everything and get to the injectors again, removing the rails on both banks, i wont show pics of the process as thats above.
but to pull the injectors, a special tool is needed, can do it without, but id rather not have taken the chance, so i spoke to JSN BMW, and Viz kindly allowed me to borrow the shops tools, which included the Injector puller, as well as the Seal removal tool.
On removing the injector, i found the head to have been bent somehow, and a hairline crack, allowing fuel to leak.
With this, i had to now replace the injector, with mine being EU5 injectors needed, i called JSN, and the price per injector with my discount was R4875, i decided to call Goldwagen, and the same injector by them, was R1750, and as luck would have it, they had only 1 in stock, so i purchased that.
I went about removing all injectors, stripping off the old seals, 3 of the 8 injectors did not even have their Decoupler rings installed (I take this now as shoddy work from RM Autotech who rebuilt the motor, thanks Rapesh... More on this later.)
One of the injectors had a 2nd decoupler ring stuck in the head, which took me about 45min to remove carefully:
Eventually got everything put back together, injectors installed in the correct direction and orientation, decoupler rings and new seals installed. And each injectors numbers taken note of so i can code them in.
So i started with ISTA
Once that was done, the guide i was following showed that the Delete Adaptations was to be run also, so that was my next step.
This was a HUGE mistake, after i ran all the procedures, i started the car up, and immediately got an error and the car ran badly and lumpy, initially i assume its for fuel pressure, so i shut it down, cleared codes without reading them, and started her up again, same thing.
and this was the codes:
Turns out, the delete Adaptations had reset the timing (Dont ask me how), after trying EVERYTHING i could to fix it, i decided to strip the ECU's again and check electrical connections, thinking i may have bent a pin. but all was ok, and i had no broken wires, or bad connections.
So i connected everything again, and started the car.
And... car was perfect, ran fine, no issues, had boost, no errors.
Drove to JSN to drop off the tools, and speak to the Service Tech about the issue i encountered, when i got there, i switched off the car, and decided to start her up again to check, and low and behold, the error had returned, Camshaft Installation Faulty.
The tech said they have had this before after deleting adaptations, and no longer use the function in fear of this, as the only resolution was remove the valve covers, and manually time the car again with the special tool.
I thought this absolutely ludicrous, as how can this be caused electronically, but cannot be repaired electronically. Anyways, i limped home with the car, and she stayed in the garage, and i researched everything i could find on this error, i swapped Vanos units, swapped Camshaft position sensors, all to no avail, the error was always present, and always on the same bank.
More to come... ...
So an update here which is overdue, and complicated.
Since the last post, i decided to investigate the issue more, and remove the injector completely.
And while doing that, i also decided to pull all the injectors, replace the seals and decouplers, and correctly orientate the injectors, and recode them.
First thing, was strip everything and get to the injectors again, removing the rails on both banks, i wont show pics of the process as thats above.
but to pull the injectors, a special tool is needed, can do it without, but id rather not have taken the chance, so i spoke to JSN BMW, and Viz kindly allowed me to borrow the shops tools, which included the Injector puller, as well as the Seal removal tool.
On removing the injector, i found the head to have been bent somehow, and a hairline crack, allowing fuel to leak.
With this, i had to now replace the injector, with mine being EU5 injectors needed, i called JSN, and the price per injector with my discount was R4875, i decided to call Goldwagen, and the same injector by them, was R1750, and as luck would have it, they had only 1 in stock, so i purchased that.
I went about removing all injectors, stripping off the old seals, 3 of the 8 injectors did not even have their Decoupler rings installed (I take this now as shoddy work from RM Autotech who rebuilt the motor, thanks Rapesh... More on this later.)
One of the injectors had a 2nd decoupler ring stuck in the head, which took me about 45min to remove carefully:
Eventually got everything put back together, injectors installed in the correct direction and orientation, decoupler rings and new seals installed. And each injectors numbers taken note of so i can code them in.
So i started with ISTA
Once that was done, the guide i was following showed that the Delete Adaptations was to be run also, so that was my next step.
This was a HUGE mistake, after i ran all the procedures, i started the car up, and immediately got an error and the car ran badly and lumpy, initially i assume its for fuel pressure, so i shut it down, cleared codes without reading them, and started her up again, same thing.
and this was the codes:
Turns out, the delete Adaptations had reset the timing (Dont ask me how), after trying EVERYTHING i could to fix it, i decided to strip the ECU's again and check electrical connections, thinking i may have bent a pin. but all was ok, and i had no broken wires, or bad connections.
So i connected everything again, and started the car.
And... car was perfect, ran fine, no issues, had boost, no errors.
Drove to JSN to drop off the tools, and speak to the Service Tech about the issue i encountered, when i got there, i switched off the car, and decided to start her up again to check, and low and behold, the error had returned, Camshaft Installation Faulty.
The tech said they have had this before after deleting adaptations, and no longer use the function in fear of this, as the only resolution was remove the valve covers, and manually time the car again with the special tool.
I thought this absolutely ludicrous, as how can this be caused electronically, but cannot be repaired electronically. Anyways, i limped home with the car, and she stayed in the garage, and i researched everything i could find on this error, i swapped Vanos units, swapped Camshaft position sensors, all to no avail, the error was always present, and always on the same bank.
More to come... ...
Attachments
General.Massacre
///Member
So with the above in mind, i was supposed to be leaving for my Cape Town relocation journey in a few days, with this happening, i had no choice but to now book a flight instead, And had the car sent to the only shop currently open, Budler Motorsport.
They told me that the error they seeing means the car need to be checked for timing, and they need to open the Valve Covers, and also inspect for broken chain guides, if it was broken guides, that means motor to be pulled, and a bill of around 100k. anyways, i told them to open the top and check the timing, the result, was that the Cam timing was perfect, witht he special timing tool fitting into position perfectly, also, the Timing Chain and Guides were in great condition.
However, they told me that the oil had bearing particulate in it (Members will remember me buying the car with the motor being rebuilt, and the oil having some remnants of glitter in, which i had assumed was from the old rebuild still lurking.) SIGH:
You will see above 2 large chunks of flake, and glitter in the oil.
Budler called me, we discussed that this may need a full rebuild, which i disagreed, and asked them to drop the sump and check the bearings, they said they will have a look in the new year, and get back to me.
Fast forward to this, week, they dropped and checked the bearings, i requested Mains to be looked at also.
Mains
Rods
Crank:
Please keep in mind, this motor is supposed to only have 10 000km on it, the bearings dont show that, and, if you look at the crank journal, note the scoring on the surface.
This looks like the previous engine builder, had used the original crank as is, and slapped on new bearings, and sold the car as is. These bearings have been slowly failing, and no doubt, if the car did not provide the error after the fuel injectors work, and i carried on driving, i estimate no more than 20 000km before total bearing failure.
Ive had my chat with Boetie Budler, and have requested only the bottom end to be rebuilt, i was told due to me going against the recommendation to do a full rebuild and assessment to check the entire motor, they cannot Guarantee the motor, but its a cost i cannot afford at this point, and the issue here seems to be the bottom end only, as there is no smoking, or issues on the turbos etc, so im confident (i hope) that this is bottom end needed only.
Budler has said that if i need a replacement crank, im looking at around 18k for the crank second hand, so with that news, ive given the go-ahead to have the motor removed, crank removed and assessed, and all new bearings replaced for both Rod Bearings and Main bearings.
this is now out of my hands, and with the reputation of Budler, i do believe the car is in the best possible place, other than TuneTec.
Ill do my best to keep this thread updated during the process, but im not expecting to get too many updates as they progress, and im not going to be hounding them for pics just to keep my thread transparent. so ill let you all know as things come up.
its a kick in the gut, no doubt, but may also be a blessing in disguise, time will tell.
Thanks all.
They told me that the error they seeing means the car need to be checked for timing, and they need to open the Valve Covers, and also inspect for broken chain guides, if it was broken guides, that means motor to be pulled, and a bill of around 100k. anyways, i told them to open the top and check the timing, the result, was that the Cam timing was perfect, witht he special timing tool fitting into position perfectly, also, the Timing Chain and Guides were in great condition.
However, they told me that the oil had bearing particulate in it (Members will remember me buying the car with the motor being rebuilt, and the oil having some remnants of glitter in, which i had assumed was from the old rebuild still lurking.) SIGH:
You will see above 2 large chunks of flake, and glitter in the oil.
Budler called me, we discussed that this may need a full rebuild, which i disagreed, and asked them to drop the sump and check the bearings, they said they will have a look in the new year, and get back to me.
Fast forward to this, week, they dropped and checked the bearings, i requested Mains to be looked at also.
Mains
Rods
Crank:
Please keep in mind, this motor is supposed to only have 10 000km on it, the bearings dont show that, and, if you look at the crank journal, note the scoring on the surface.
This looks like the previous engine builder, had used the original crank as is, and slapped on new bearings, and sold the car as is. These bearings have been slowly failing, and no doubt, if the car did not provide the error after the fuel injectors work, and i carried on driving, i estimate no more than 20 000km before total bearing failure.
Ive had my chat with Boetie Budler, and have requested only the bottom end to be rebuilt, i was told due to me going against the recommendation to do a full rebuild and assessment to check the entire motor, they cannot Guarantee the motor, but its a cost i cannot afford at this point, and the issue here seems to be the bottom end only, as there is no smoking, or issues on the turbos etc, so im confident (i hope) that this is bottom end needed only.
Budler has said that if i need a replacement crank, im looking at around 18k for the crank second hand, so with that news, ive given the go-ahead to have the motor removed, crank removed and assessed, and all new bearings replaced for both Rod Bearings and Main bearings.
this is now out of my hands, and with the reputation of Budler, i do believe the car is in the best possible place, other than TuneTec.
Ill do my best to keep this thread updated during the process, but im not expecting to get too many updates as they progress, and im not going to be hounding them for pics just to keep my thread transparent. so ill let you all know as things come up.
its a kick in the gut, no doubt, but may also be a blessing in disguise, time will tell.
Thanks all.
Sabretooth tiger
///Member
This sucks man. Glad the car is in good hands though. Sorry for your misfortune but welcome to Cape Town
TBP88
Well-known member
Such kak timing with a move and all those associated expenses to also get hit with a heavy car bill. But at least you know the vehicle well given the thread above - hope you're right about where the issues are and good luck!
Hope the rental/daily/whatever mode of transport you have here is at least giving you the chance to enjoy the city thusfar!!!
VinceM
Well-known member
Feel your pain bud, with relocation etc, this is probably the last place you want to spend money, especially after being guaranteed the motor was build up properly a few kilometres ago.
Glad the vehicle is in good hands now. All the best, bud. Happy new year too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Glad the vehicle is in good hands now. All the best, bud. Happy new year too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
General.Massacre
///Member
Thanks man, I also hope so, from what I've seen online, that Camshaft Installation Faulty error doesn't bode well, and I haven't seen anyone update a thread with a fix, so still an unknown.
As for Cape Town, I'm using Uber currently which is limiting, I'm only 9km from the office, so it's acceptable for now, and I'm also watching my funds as the move was very expensive with everything involved. So just need to get through January before I can fully explore.
Thanks bro, appreciate it, soon as I'm settled. I'll arrange meet and greets, but just taking it easy for now.
I'm staying in Century City
