michael.joseph
Active member
Come on now.... we gona need a few sound clips with that new exhaust tone:smilebounce:
-
Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
The General's E92 335i
- Thread starter General.Massacre
- Start date
General.Massacre
///Member
hi guys,
New update.
Shane (Physpher) offered me a WMI kit (or parts thereof), for a price i could not ignore.
So, i decided to take it, and collected the following:
Shane showed me the JB4 FSB was pretty cut up, no connectors on the wires etc, which was ok, as i decided take it on anyway.
I called up Afzil, and explained the situation, and we decided to rewire the FSB completely, new connectors (JB4 OEM), new plugs, new wiring.
IN the meantime, i contacted Brendan at Cool Boost (great guy, and very knowledgeable.)
and ordered the items which i needed that were not part of Shanes sale:
1 x Solenoid
1 x Nozzle (CB10)
Piping
I dropped off the car at master Afzil, and let him work his magic.
I arrived later the afternoon and assisted where i can with the rest.
we realised the AEM pump was leaking out of the Outlet pipe fixture )Push connectors), so after doing the FSB installation, and the piping and Nozzle, we left it there for the day, and i headed home.
When i got home, i called Brendan, and ordered a replacement Pump Head, as well as new fittings (screw in type as opposed to the Push connectors)
I collected, and bought a 10lt Methanol, as well as some extra Piping, and a Tank Bracket.
http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/uploads/user/38670/20190119_160040_6425315658.jpg[/img
[img]http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/uploads/user/38670/20190119_160007_5267417188.jpg
i got everything in, set up a nice neat stealthy tank setup for the piping, and went to prime the system. and after 3 10sec primes, i got full flow and pressure. very happy
I did some tests, and first test gave me a Misfire Cyl4 error, which i cleared. adn then did a few more, and got the same error.
So i left everything as it was, as i also had a leaking tank, so fixed that, and left it for a week to Cure and dry properly.
I called up Nick (Osiris), and went to his place to finalise a few things, and to load the Updated BMS BEF revisions that were released 120318.
Found that the nozzle was not threaded all the way down, so managed to nip it down further, and then loaded the Race BEF map again (after 2 failed attempts, which made me think i turned my car to a giant paper weight :skit: )
the car is absolutely smooth now, pulls off clean and smooth, no bog, and the shifts are clean also.
Meth flow is constant, and the car pulls very smooth.
the IAT do not go down, as my Meth Bung is situated just above the TMAP sensor by the Throttle Body, so its not atomising, but im getting full benefit of the Octane factor, and im loving it.
I have ordered an AMS style Intercooler as well as a Charge Pipe with a better situated Meth Bung closer to the front of the car which will allow the Meth to mix better with the air and cool it all down before reaching the TMAP and being inhaled into the Throttle Body.
Still needs a bit of cleaning up, but il handle that at a later date. for now its operational. and im happy.
thanks for reading guys.
New update.
Shane (Physpher) offered me a WMI kit (or parts thereof), for a price i could not ignore.
So, i decided to take it, and collected the following:
Shane showed me the JB4 FSB was pretty cut up, no connectors on the wires etc, which was ok, as i decided take it on anyway.
I called up Afzil, and explained the situation, and we decided to rewire the FSB completely, new connectors (JB4 OEM), new plugs, new wiring.
IN the meantime, i contacted Brendan at Cool Boost (great guy, and very knowledgeable.)
and ordered the items which i needed that were not part of Shanes sale:
1 x Solenoid
1 x Nozzle (CB10)
Piping
I dropped off the car at master Afzil, and let him work his magic.
I arrived later the afternoon and assisted where i can with the rest.
we realised the AEM pump was leaking out of the Outlet pipe fixture )Push connectors), so after doing the FSB installation, and the piping and Nozzle, we left it there for the day, and i headed home.
When i got home, i called Brendan, and ordered a replacement Pump Head, as well as new fittings (screw in type as opposed to the Push connectors)
I collected, and bought a 10lt Methanol, as well as some extra Piping, and a Tank Bracket.
http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/uploads/user/38670/20190119_160040_6425315658.jpg[/img
[img]http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/uploads/user/38670/20190119_160007_5267417188.jpg
i got everything in, set up a nice neat stealthy tank setup for the piping, and went to prime the system. and after 3 10sec primes, i got full flow and pressure. very happy
I did some tests, and first test gave me a Misfire Cyl4 error, which i cleared. adn then did a few more, and got the same error.
So i left everything as it was, as i also had a leaking tank, so fixed that, and left it for a week to Cure and dry properly.
I called up Nick (Osiris), and went to his place to finalise a few things, and to load the Updated BMS BEF revisions that were released 120318.
Found that the nozzle was not threaded all the way down, so managed to nip it down further, and then loaded the Race BEF map again (after 2 failed attempts, which made me think i turned my car to a giant paper weight :skit: )
the car is absolutely smooth now, pulls off clean and smooth, no bog, and the shifts are clean also.
Meth flow is constant, and the car pulls very smooth.
the IAT do not go down, as my Meth Bung is situated just above the TMAP sensor by the Throttle Body, so its not atomising, but im getting full benefit of the Octane factor, and im loving it.
I have ordered an AMS style Intercooler as well as a Charge Pipe with a better situated Meth Bung closer to the front of the car which will allow the Meth to mix better with the air and cool it all down before reaching the TMAP and being inhaled into the Throttle Body.
Still needs a bit of cleaning up, but il handle that at a later date. for now its operational. and im happy.
thanks for reading guys.
General.Massacre
///Member
Danny@DSCmotorsport said:
agreed, i am considering the CM7 nozzle, but i think the current setup is doing well.
I am not on WOT all the time, and i did a good number of pulls when testing, and if not for the long priming i did and used half the tank of meth stupidly, i would still be good, i used a 1/4 tank on about 8pulls. 3rd gear to mid 5th.
still gauging the usage, but im pretty impressed.
you have any recommendations Danny?
On my car I used 2 x CM5 cause I think it’s atomization is better than a single cm10.
But I don’t know if that correct or not maybe someone else can chime in.
I used a 50/50 mix and my timing pull would come down to 0 degrees.
As for tank, I was a savage and installed a 10L in the boot.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
But I don’t know if that correct or not maybe someone else can chime in.
I used a 50/50 mix and my timing pull would come down to 0 degrees.
As for tank, I was a savage and installed a 10L in the boot.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
General.Massacre
///Member
Danny@DSCmotorsport said:
Were you running JB4? or Custom Flash only
General.Massacre
///Member
Danny@DSCmotorsport said:
OK cool.
i am using the JB4 and Race Back End Flash. great and smooth.
General.Massacre
///Member
Hey guys, another Update:
I finally got around to ordering my AMS type FMIC, and a new Charge Pipe with Tial BOV. (the reason for the new Charge Pipe is for the Meth bung being closer to the front of the pipe and not on top of the TMAP Sensor like my current one.
Some pics of the Intercooler:
Here is a pic of the BOV that i took apart to check all is ok
So on Tuesday evening Afzil offered to assist with my Install of the Intercooler.
We got the stock one stripped out, and were impressed with the size difference
When mocking up the new Cooler, the cradle needed some trimming, then it slid in fine, lining up the FMIC inlet was a bit of a mission, as the pipe is angled, so we had to judge by eye. but ill be replacing it with a Straight silicone pipe in the very near future (reason is i have a slight boost leak, and all my research points to the Pipe, as plenty other users have had the issue due to the pipe being a bit too short, even though it fits, confusing but true LOL).
here is a nice frontal of the Cooler fitted:
The car ran cooler immediately with regards to IAT, on the drive home from Afzil, the cars IAT remained at around 23, and then just before i got home i did 3 back to back pulls, with the IAT maxing out at 55deg, whereas before, i twas maxing at about 85deg or 90deg. to say im impressed is an understatement.
Going home the next day, i noted my Water Temp sitting higher than normal, so when i go home, the little pipe above the Radiator Fan burst:
I immediately started contacting some people, and Afzil once again came through with the Assistance of his mate, and i went at 9PM to fetch the new pipe from Afzil, a nice metal replacement of the plastic rubbish OEM part (that admittedly is 10years old :hammerhead: ), also bought 2 litres of Coolant concentrate, which i mixed with the 2 litres of Distilled water i had at home.
Trying to remove the old pipe was a mission, kept breaking, but i came right, and fitted the new part,
Finished up the radiator repair at 11pm, had the Coolant topped up which used all 4lt i had. plus a little extra.
Ran the coolant bleed procedure, which ran the Water Pump for 12minutes to circulate the coolant, and everything was good, drove the car to work the next morning :cartel:
i noticed though that just before arriving at work, which is around 7km from home, there was steam coming from the front.
i parked and investigated everywhere, and apart from the steam and the smell of coolant, i couldnt find a leak.
got home later in the day, and searched again, and nothing,
So i thought of a theory to that issue, when my pipe burst the previous night, the coolant literally went EVERYWHERE, windscreen, bonnet, engine, radiator, hoses etc,
so i know that coolant went over the radiator, and im guessing that he coolant that got caught in the radiator Fins on the core, and surrounding areas, would heat up and cause the steam, as i havent had steam since, and there is no coolant smell either.
I will get the radiator pressure tested and more than likely replace, if its the requirement.
but this is where i currently stand.
I need to sort the Silicone pipe out and cure the boost leak, as my JB4 logs show distinct WasteGate Duty Cycle increase, as well as the my FF values increasing (for those that understand the JB4 logging)
My IAT are now great, timing is fine, but could be better, but i believe the Boost leak may contribute to this.
would like to close off the post by saying a phenomenal thank you to Afzil for all the help with my car, never turns me away, and always gives advice, as well as listens to my thoughts and explanations before he gives his.
thanks for reading guys :ty:
I finally got around to ordering my AMS type FMIC, and a new Charge Pipe with Tial BOV. (the reason for the new Charge Pipe is for the Meth bung being closer to the front of the pipe and not on top of the TMAP Sensor like my current one.
Some pics of the Intercooler:
Here is a pic of the BOV that i took apart to check all is ok
So on Tuesday evening Afzil offered to assist with my Install of the Intercooler.
We got the stock one stripped out, and were impressed with the size difference
When mocking up the new Cooler, the cradle needed some trimming, then it slid in fine, lining up the FMIC inlet was a bit of a mission, as the pipe is angled, so we had to judge by eye. but ill be replacing it with a Straight silicone pipe in the very near future (reason is i have a slight boost leak, and all my research points to the Pipe, as plenty other users have had the issue due to the pipe being a bit too short, even though it fits, confusing but true LOL).
here is a nice frontal of the Cooler fitted:
The car ran cooler immediately with regards to IAT, on the drive home from Afzil, the cars IAT remained at around 23, and then just before i got home i did 3 back to back pulls, with the IAT maxing out at 55deg, whereas before, i twas maxing at about 85deg or 90deg. to say im impressed is an understatement.
Going home the next day, i noted my Water Temp sitting higher than normal, so when i go home, the little pipe above the Radiator Fan burst:
I immediately started contacting some people, and Afzil once again came through with the Assistance of his mate, and i went at 9PM to fetch the new pipe from Afzil, a nice metal replacement of the plastic rubbish OEM part (that admittedly is 10years old :hammerhead: ), also bought 2 litres of Coolant concentrate, which i mixed with the 2 litres of Distilled water i had at home.
Trying to remove the old pipe was a mission, kept breaking, but i came right, and fitted the new part,
Finished up the radiator repair at 11pm, had the Coolant topped up which used all 4lt i had. plus a little extra.
Ran the coolant bleed procedure, which ran the Water Pump for 12minutes to circulate the coolant, and everything was good, drove the car to work the next morning :cartel:
i noticed though that just before arriving at work, which is around 7km from home, there was steam coming from the front.
i parked and investigated everywhere, and apart from the steam and the smell of coolant, i couldnt find a leak.
got home later in the day, and searched again, and nothing,
So i thought of a theory to that issue, when my pipe burst the previous night, the coolant literally went EVERYWHERE, windscreen, bonnet, engine, radiator, hoses etc,
so i know that coolant went over the radiator, and im guessing that he coolant that got caught in the radiator Fins on the core, and surrounding areas, would heat up and cause the steam, as i havent had steam since, and there is no coolant smell either.
I will get the radiator pressure tested and more than likely replace, if its the requirement.
but this is where i currently stand.
I need to sort the Silicone pipe out and cure the boost leak, as my JB4 logs show distinct WasteGate Duty Cycle increase, as well as the my FF values increasing (for those that understand the JB4 logging)
My IAT are now great, timing is fine, but could be better, but i believe the Boost leak may contribute to this.
would like to close off the post by saying a phenomenal thank you to Afzil for all the help with my car, never turns me away, and always gives advice, as well as listens to my thoughts and explanations before he gives his.
thanks for reading guys :ty:
General.Massacre
///Member
Hi guys, quick update on my 335i.
I managed to finally, after nearly 2 years of searching and researching, fix the Launch Control.
i taught myself how to flash my DCT gearbox, and low and behold, better gearshifts, and a working LC, the initial DCT software must of been one of the first that wasnt activated with the LC parameter. but thats now fixed, and out of the way.
Also, ive taught myself how to use Tuner Pro, and have adjusted the Throttle Corrections table, as well as the DCT parameters for Tq Reduction by Ign.
Car feels great since loading up the new file.
i am however having another issue that i have posted on this forum about the "Throttle Closure" issue i am having.
Ill be teaching myself alot more in the coming weeks/months to be more proficient.
@Kish2604Kish2604 said:
I managed to finally, after nearly 2 years of searching and researching, fix the Launch Control.
i taught myself how to flash my DCT gearbox, and low and behold, better gearshifts, and a working LC, the initial DCT software must of been one of the first that wasnt activated with the LC parameter. but thats now fixed, and out of the way.
Also, ive taught myself how to use Tuner Pro, and have adjusted the Throttle Corrections table, as well as the DCT parameters for Tq Reduction by Ign.
Car feels great since loading up the new file.
i am however having another issue that i have posted on this forum about the "Throttle Closure" issue i am having.
Ill be teaching myself alot more in the coming weeks/months to be more proficient.
General.Massacre
///Member
Holy Crap, after seeing @osiris updating his thread, i realized mine has fallen down the ways side.
After returning the car back to relatively stock after the smoking issue on my FBO setup with JB4, i removed the TD04-16T Wuhan Whistlers, and that cured the smoking issue, so needless to say the internals quality and clearances were the downfall.
So i went back to Stock Turbos, they were fitted, but i cheaped out and used a 2nd hand set with "Apparantly" new cores, but i opted ot to worry about doing new Wastegate flaps, which would come back to bite me in the a$$, right now my engine bay sounds like it has a congregation of homeless people rattling their change tins with the hopes of getting rich...
Anyway, fast forward, and i have done the following:
with Danny (DSC motorsports), i went and installed
New Front Control arms Upper and lower
New Engine Mounts
Complete new Suspension (Bilstein)
New Front brakes (Discs and Pads)
Converted to 1M Software (this feels amazing on the 335i, throttle response in Sport mode is miles better.)
Completed Full Exhaust setup with Sanjeev at Powerflow Randburg (still not 100% happy and will get corrections)
I have sourced a set of 2nd hand turbos, and have bought myself a Mamba 14T hybrid kit (exactly what we put in @osiris car), these have already been sent to Gaby @Fastec for engineering, and they are sitting my Garage waiting for installation, which will be done this time by myself and @osiris (No more short cuts on my car, doing it the correct way)
Danny sourced me a set of 2" Silicone Inlets that ill collect tomorrow.
Current shopping list stands at:
New 14T Turbos ready to be installed
New OEM Turbo Oil Feed and Return lines
New OEM manifold Bolts and Studs
New OEM Orings/Gaskets
New Billet Mickey Mouse water adapter
New Silicone Inlets
New PR Inlet Adaptors for 2"Inlets
I cannot load photos to this thread, but i can on other threads any mods able to assist?
After returning the car back to relatively stock after the smoking issue on my FBO setup with JB4, i removed the TD04-16T Wuhan Whistlers, and that cured the smoking issue, so needless to say the internals quality and clearances were the downfall.
So i went back to Stock Turbos, they were fitted, but i cheaped out and used a 2nd hand set with "Apparantly" new cores, but i opted ot to worry about doing new Wastegate flaps, which would come back to bite me in the a$$, right now my engine bay sounds like it has a congregation of homeless people rattling their change tins with the hopes of getting rich...
Anyway, fast forward, and i have done the following:
with Danny (DSC motorsports), i went and installed
New Front Control arms Upper and lower
New Engine Mounts
Complete new Suspension (Bilstein)
New Front brakes (Discs and Pads)
Converted to 1M Software (this feels amazing on the 335i, throttle response in Sport mode is miles better.)
Completed Full Exhaust setup with Sanjeev at Powerflow Randburg (still not 100% happy and will get corrections)
I have sourced a set of 2nd hand turbos, and have bought myself a Mamba 14T hybrid kit (exactly what we put in @osiris car), these have already been sent to Gaby @Fastec for engineering, and they are sitting my Garage waiting for installation, which will be done this time by myself and @osiris (No more short cuts on my car, doing it the correct way)
Danny sourced me a set of 2" Silicone Inlets that ill collect tomorrow.
Current shopping list stands at:
New 14T Turbos ready to be installed
New OEM Turbo Oil Feed and Return lines
New OEM manifold Bolts and Studs
New OEM Orings/Gaskets
New Billet Mickey Mouse water adapter
New Silicone Inlets
New PR Inlet Adaptors for 2"Inlets
I cannot load photos to this thread, but i can on other threads any mods able to assist?
osiris
///Member
Can one of the mods please sort this man out so he can post pics. The "Attach files" button isn't visible for him and when I tried logging into his account on my own pc I had the same issue yet on my own account name I am able to attach pics on his thread so obviously some sort of restriction has been bestowed upon him for some obscure reason.
Mods please fix.
Thanks
Mods please fix.
Thanks
General.Massacre
///Member
Thanks to the mod that assisted in my thread being fixed.
I have received my Turbos from Fastec:
Also, a while back, i met my brother and a friend for some food in alberton, and took the opportunity to play photographer with my Phone (Samsung S21 Ultra)
These are the results:
Owners:
My brother has the Twin Turbo 350z (Has too many mods to even consider mentioning - Currently doing 390wkw on 10psi)
My friend owns the 8v2 RS3
Will keep the Updates on the parts going as soon as we begin the Turbo work and everything else.
I have received my Turbos from Fastec:
Also, a while back, i met my brother and a friend for some food in alberton, and took the opportunity to play photographer with my Phone (Samsung S21 Ultra)
These are the results:
Owners:
My brother has the Twin Turbo 350z (Has too many mods to even consider mentioning - Currently doing 390wkw on 10psi)
My friend owns the 8v2 RS3
Will keep the Updates on the parts going as soon as we begin the Turbo work and everything else.
General.Massacre
///Member
Sup guys
So this weekend I assisted @Oswithbsome work on his car for Methanol preparation. But won't get into that detail here as he will be posting it all up on his thread.
After we finished up on his car, I decided to do something I've been wanting to try for a while.
As some know I've converted my ECU to run 1M IKM0S Hardware detail rather than the OEM 335i IJE0S Hardware detail.
Those that are in the know, will understand what this means.
Those that don't, a quick very brief overview.
We all know that the cars use different software. But there is more involved info here and each specific version of N54 uses different Hardware Names to differentiate updates.
Most 135/335i from '06 - late '08 use I8A0S
'09 - '10 use IJE0S
Z4 35i/s uses INA0S
135is/335is in USA uses INA0S_IS
1M uses IKM0S
Each of these have slight advantages over each predecessor to give an edge over the last one in terms of updates, features etc.
So I did all the research and reading I could, and decided to make the move to go to IKM0S (1M) for the simple reason of its the Highest output N54, with the Z4 35i/is close behind it.
After checking all the tables I could and checking what was different, I pulled the trigger and went ahead.
This included adjustments to PowerClass variables in the tables to allow it to work on a "lesser" N54 ECU. (This subject can get very technical and very complicated so will not be delving into it).
I've been running the Car on IKM0S for the last year or so, and the car has been absolutely amazing, apart from a constant Error in MHD/Protool for M Drive SZL (all 1M came with MDM mode (MDrive Dynamic Mode) and needs additional coding to work with the tune, but I've not done this as it doesn't effect the drive. And there is no benefit to doing it, as the MDrive is still under research and does not seem to be going anywhere.
However. The BIGGEST difference apart from the power increase when moving over to IKM0S was the Sport button. When pressing it sensitized the throttle so much and was a dream to drive.
Some advantages of IKM0S:
Timing increase by about 4 - 5deg over stock 335i
Boost increase from 8psi to 11psi with a Overboost feature peaking at 14psi down low.
Now even though I've loved this map, I've always been jealous of @osiris car with the way it drives, the smoothness of the throttle and drive is insane.
I asked him if I could grab his standard map, and went through it with a fine tooth comb comparing IJE0S/INA0S/IKM0S maps to see what made the Z4 so vastly superior.
And Yes, I believe without a doubt, the Z4 is FAR superior to even the 1M. It really is the absolute Holy Grail of N54 cars. It's the perfect build.
I found loads of advantages from Factory in the INA0S Z4 map (only for the Z4) that no other maps had. This included but was not limited to:
Fuel Scaling
Boost functions
Torque requests
MAP Scaling
Etc
Etc
So I had a thought. Why not write my own base file and combine all the Best features from the Z4, the 1M and the stock file (of which let me be honest there weren't any on the stock file hahaha)
So I started the process of porting, back porting and adjusting tables to allow different tables and bits to be compatible into one single hybrid File.
And, after flashing the file to prepare and sync my VIN to it, started the car up. And besides the MDrive error, the car started perfectly. Idled perfectly.
I called @osiris and we went for a drive.
The difference I felt was immediate. The throttle response and smoothness from standstill for daily driving was crisp, the DCT known delay was gone.
I retained the Sport button response increase from the 1M, but ported the Z4s clean and perfect fuel Scaling from idle to facilitate the idle and low rpm throttle.
Once warmed up, I opened up and the car pulls very hard. (It's a stock power file so around the 250kw crank power mark)
Nick can attest to the absolute drivability, and the power considering it's essentially stock, or rather a mix and match of multiple stock files.
There is Timing corrections, but nothing more than 3deg of correction, and if anyone knows, Timing corrections on a standard car file are the norm, and is expected.
Also, the 1M is built and tuned from Factoey for 98octane, so I've retained this.
The reason: when i fit meth again later this year, the octane from the meth will clean it up and give a bit more power across the range.
So the plan is, to offer up my new hybrid base file for the day when I eventually go for a custom tune from my tuner.
Thanks to @osiris for the use of his place and his patience while I sat making adjustments haha.
It's been a steep learning curve, and still more to learn, but it's one of the best "mods" I've done to my car for a very long time.
I am VERY happy with how the car is running.
@osiris Even gave me a quick basic Engine bay clean in the process, sadly no pics, but we will be doing a bit of an Engine bay detail soon to get it all clean.
Thanks for reading guys.
So this weekend I assisted @Oswithbsome work on his car for Methanol preparation. But won't get into that detail here as he will be posting it all up on his thread.
After we finished up on his car, I decided to do something I've been wanting to try for a while.
As some know I've converted my ECU to run 1M IKM0S Hardware detail rather than the OEM 335i IJE0S Hardware detail.
Those that are in the know, will understand what this means.
Those that don't, a quick very brief overview.
We all know that the cars use different software. But there is more involved info here and each specific version of N54 uses different Hardware Names to differentiate updates.
Most 135/335i from '06 - late '08 use I8A0S
'09 - '10 use IJE0S
Z4 35i/s uses INA0S
135is/335is in USA uses INA0S_IS
1M uses IKM0S
Each of these have slight advantages over each predecessor to give an edge over the last one in terms of updates, features etc.
So I did all the research and reading I could, and decided to make the move to go to IKM0S (1M) for the simple reason of its the Highest output N54, with the Z4 35i/is close behind it.
After checking all the tables I could and checking what was different, I pulled the trigger and went ahead.
This included adjustments to PowerClass variables in the tables to allow it to work on a "lesser" N54 ECU. (This subject can get very technical and very complicated so will not be delving into it).
I've been running the Car on IKM0S for the last year or so, and the car has been absolutely amazing, apart from a constant Error in MHD/Protool for M Drive SZL (all 1M came with MDM mode (MDrive Dynamic Mode) and needs additional coding to work with the tune, but I've not done this as it doesn't effect the drive. And there is no benefit to doing it, as the MDrive is still under research and does not seem to be going anywhere.
However. The BIGGEST difference apart from the power increase when moving over to IKM0S was the Sport button. When pressing it sensitized the throttle so much and was a dream to drive.
Some advantages of IKM0S:
Timing increase by about 4 - 5deg over stock 335i
Boost increase from 8psi to 11psi with a Overboost feature peaking at 14psi down low.
Now even though I've loved this map, I've always been jealous of @osiris car with the way it drives, the smoothness of the throttle and drive is insane.
I asked him if I could grab his standard map, and went through it with a fine tooth comb comparing IJE0S/INA0S/IKM0S maps to see what made the Z4 so vastly superior.
And Yes, I believe without a doubt, the Z4 is FAR superior to even the 1M. It really is the absolute Holy Grail of N54 cars. It's the perfect build.
I found loads of advantages from Factory in the INA0S Z4 map (only for the Z4) that no other maps had. This included but was not limited to:
Fuel Scaling
Boost functions
Torque requests
MAP Scaling
Etc
Etc
So I had a thought. Why not write my own base file and combine all the Best features from the Z4, the 1M and the stock file (of which let me be honest there weren't any on the stock file hahaha)
So I started the process of porting, back porting and adjusting tables to allow different tables and bits to be compatible into one single hybrid File.
And, after flashing the file to prepare and sync my VIN to it, started the car up. And besides the MDrive error, the car started perfectly. Idled perfectly.
I called @osiris and we went for a drive.
The difference I felt was immediate. The throttle response and smoothness from standstill for daily driving was crisp, the DCT known delay was gone.
I retained the Sport button response increase from the 1M, but ported the Z4s clean and perfect fuel Scaling from idle to facilitate the idle and low rpm throttle.
Once warmed up, I opened up and the car pulls very hard. (It's a stock power file so around the 250kw crank power mark)
Nick can attest to the absolute drivability, and the power considering it's essentially stock, or rather a mix and match of multiple stock files.
There is Timing corrections, but nothing more than 3deg of correction, and if anyone knows, Timing corrections on a standard car file are the norm, and is expected.
Also, the 1M is built and tuned from Factoey for 98octane, so I've retained this.
The reason: when i fit meth again later this year, the octane from the meth will clean it up and give a bit more power across the range.
So the plan is, to offer up my new hybrid base file for the day when I eventually go for a custom tune from my tuner.
Thanks to @osiris for the use of his place and his patience while I sat making adjustments haha.
It's been a steep learning curve, and still more to learn, but it's one of the best "mods" I've done to my car for a very long time.
I am VERY happy with how the car is running.
@osiris Even gave me a quick basic Engine bay clean in the process, sadly no pics, but we will be doing a bit of an Engine bay detail soon to get it all clean.
Thanks for reading guys.
osiris
///Member
Very nice write up man. And Honestly from what the car was when I first went for a drive in it when we met back in 2017 to how it is now is phenomenal. I don't think any stock 335i can even hope to compare to how your car now drives, its a different machine altogether, the logs looked impressive to say the least for a stock file, almost perfectly clean. A normal stock file on n54 usually has tons of timing corrections with the shitty fuel we get in SA but what you have managed to do with this map on your car is incredible. I haven't felt a stock N54 feel this powerful before they usually are quite sluggish if we honest about this.
However the difference in drivability from last night when we went out to go get some food to how it drove today after the map you made is night and day, the biggest difference other than power is how smoothly it drives from pull away in gentle driving conditions in traffic etc. almost feels like a NA car in terms of pure smoothness. Well done dude and keep on learning as this information you are learning is invaluable.
This is so much better than just paying someone to just send you a map stick it on the car and watch the dyno numbers go up! This is reliable smooth performance with a deep understanding of exactly what is going on so well done on that man. And thanks again for all the help with the stuff we did on my car this weekend.
However the difference in drivability from last night when we went out to go get some food to how it drove today after the map you made is night and day, the biggest difference other than power is how smoothly it drives from pull away in gentle driving conditions in traffic etc. almost feels like a NA car in terms of pure smoothness. Well done dude and keep on learning as this information you are learning is invaluable.
This is so much better than just paying someone to just send you a map stick it on the car and watch the dyno numbers go up! This is reliable smooth performance with a deep understanding of exactly what is going on so well done on that man. And thanks again for all the help with the stuff we did on my car this weekend.
Similar threads
