General.Massacre
///Member
osiris said:
No i dont, Marchand and his team took some pics im sure. but when i collected the car, it was already outside waiting for me.
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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
The General's E92 335i
- Thread starter General.Massacre
- Start date
No i dont, Marchand and his team took some pics im sure. but when i collected the car, it was already outside waiting for me.
General.Massacre
///Member
General.Massacre said:Hi guys, so another update, did the Carbon Clean woith Marchand, and enjoyed speaking to him, and gaining some insight on things i didnt know about and that i am still learning.
Discovered my Charge pipe was not tightened down at the intercooler end, which gave me an EML light friday night, so that was tightened.
here is the pics as already shown
still enjoying the car as is, and will do additional modifications comes the new year.
Im still getting a blowing noise of air, and believe a boost leak is still around, so need to find it, else it is that my turbos are in bad shape.
i will found out in due time.
Here are some after pics of the clean that Marchand sent me this afternoon.
the difference is astounding to say the least, thank you Marchand.
General.Massacre
///Member
bobbychoo said:
Yes i can feel a difference. ive noticed the car feel smoother, i had a slight rough idle, only slight, but i could feel it.
that is all gone, the car does feel a bit stronger, but i am putting that down to the big boost leak from the charge pipe.
really is worth it, even as preventative maintenance. some say they feel the difference, some dont, but if its never been done on the car, i advise it. will allow it to breath alot better.
Try take advantage of the special if you can, ends at the end of October.
General.Massacre
///Member
Hi guys,
So slight update. (Sorry no pictures)
I pulled the trigger a few weeks back and bought the JB4 + DCI combo from Albert, as well as a Charge Pipe with Forge DV system.
Spent the time yesterday and did the fitment.
The Charge Pipe was the first to go on, spent some time getting to know how to strip the Cowl off the rear of the motor, and got everything well stripped in about 15min.
Got the OEM Airbox out.
I removed the OEM Charge Pipe, and found there to be no cracks of any kind, but i did note some oil in the pipe where the throttle body connection is, removed the OEM DV, and the extra piece of equipment that goes to nowhere. no idea what it was, lol, but its all out.
Inspected everrything and no issues.
Setup the Charge Pipe with the O-Ring and the C CLip on the new CP, and got it in place, connected it to the InterCooler pipe, and then began getting the Forge DV connected,
Initially had the Return line back to the Intake system like stock, fitted the BMS DCI filters. and put everything back together, and went for a drive.
Now right from the get go, i felt throttle response had increased, and the extra noise from the DCI filters was not overly loud, but sounded good.
I drove to Builders to buy a set of Rubber stoppers to plug the return lines to have the BOV type mod to dump the DVs to Atmospheric. i was not too happy with that aspect, didnt feel as responsive as the intial setup, so i reconnected it back to be a return line.
On getting home, i let the car cool down, disconnected battery, and started stripping the cowl again, to fit the JB4.
a bit of stressing, but eventually got all the wires connected correctly 1st time. my only issue was struggling with the BMA Data Cable USB connector to drop it down the back of the ECU box, to try get it into the Cabin, well that was a major Fail, tried everything, and just couldnt get it routed down there. so, i ended up leaving it, and will try another time, or get myself a Bluetooth unit for the communication.
After i got everything connected, i triplechecked EVERY connector just in case haha. then Managed to start the Car first time, lol. i was kakking myself.
the car was left on Map 5 as i read it was the AutoTuning map. and decided to hit a test drive. the car felt REALLY good, strong.
I immediately noticed that the car pulls hard, one time i saw the Hazards Flash, and the Fuel gauge dropped to 0, then came back uo to the correct mark after about 10seconds.
i saw that the map automatically went to MAP 4, so i put it back to Map 5, and continued driving.
has not since happened again. stays on Map 5. however sometimes on a hard drive the Hazards Flash again, and the Fuel Gauge goes to zero again, then corrects itself after 10seconds.
Anyone know what this means?
All in all, the car drives really well. i gather i cant do any troubleshooting till i have a cable or bluetooth device to be able to read them i guess.
But for now. its feeling good.
I was told that i should use Map 1 or 2, and not Map 5, as our fuel grade is different.
is this true?
So slight update. (Sorry no pictures)
I pulled the trigger a few weeks back and bought the JB4 + DCI combo from Albert, as well as a Charge Pipe with Forge DV system.
Spent the time yesterday and did the fitment.
The Charge Pipe was the first to go on, spent some time getting to know how to strip the Cowl off the rear of the motor, and got everything well stripped in about 15min.
Got the OEM Airbox out.
I removed the OEM Charge Pipe, and found there to be no cracks of any kind, but i did note some oil in the pipe where the throttle body connection is, removed the OEM DV, and the extra piece of equipment that goes to nowhere. no idea what it was, lol, but its all out.
Inspected everrything and no issues.
Setup the Charge Pipe with the O-Ring and the C CLip on the new CP, and got it in place, connected it to the InterCooler pipe, and then began getting the Forge DV connected,
Initially had the Return line back to the Intake system like stock, fitted the BMS DCI filters. and put everything back together, and went for a drive.
Now right from the get go, i felt throttle response had increased, and the extra noise from the DCI filters was not overly loud, but sounded good.
I drove to Builders to buy a set of Rubber stoppers to plug the return lines to have the BOV type mod to dump the DVs to Atmospheric. i was not too happy with that aspect, didnt feel as responsive as the intial setup, so i reconnected it back to be a return line.
On getting home, i let the car cool down, disconnected battery, and started stripping the cowl again, to fit the JB4.
a bit of stressing, but eventually got all the wires connected correctly 1st time. my only issue was struggling with the BMA Data Cable USB connector to drop it down the back of the ECU box, to try get it into the Cabin, well that was a major Fail, tried everything, and just couldnt get it routed down there. so, i ended up leaving it, and will try another time, or get myself a Bluetooth unit for the communication.
After i got everything connected, i triplechecked EVERY connector just in case haha. then Managed to start the Car first time, lol. i was kakking myself.
the car was left on Map 5 as i read it was the AutoTuning map. and decided to hit a test drive. the car felt REALLY good, strong.
I immediately noticed that the car pulls hard, one time i saw the Hazards Flash, and the Fuel gauge dropped to 0, then came back uo to the correct mark after about 10seconds.
i saw that the map automatically went to MAP 4, so i put it back to Map 5, and continued driving.
has not since happened again. stays on Map 5. however sometimes on a hard drive the Hazards Flash again, and the Fuel Gauge goes to zero again, then corrects itself after 10seconds.
Anyone know what this means?
All in all, the car drives really well. i gather i cant do any troubleshooting till i have a cable or bluetooth device to be able to read them i guess.
But for now. its feeling good.
I was told that i should use Map 1 or 2, and not Map 5, as our fuel grade is different.
is this true?
Nothing wrong with map 5...its the auto tuning map and calculates everything. Perfect for daily driver.General.Massacre said:
The harzards is the shift indicator which a jb4 feature. They will come on when its time to change gear. You can change it to whatever rev you want. I would change it to 5800 or 6000rpm as after that the turbos are out their efficiency range.
The fuel gauge going to zero and moving around is another jb4 feature, depending on what the previous owner had it set at, it could be showing you your boost or your afrs. Its activates when your throttle is beyond 50%.
Get your firmware updated and check all user adjustments on the jb4 unit as you dont what the previous owner had it set at.
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
General.Massacre
///Member
FiRi@Rennzport said:
Ah sweet thanks Firi, i was reading something about the SES light flashing, or hazards flashing meaning JB4 showing an error. so was stressing that maybe im getting a fault.
I still need to go through the Menu, i did notice now however going through the menus, that the Mapping option was set to 4/2, meaning that i am supposed to have a BEF with it, so i set it to 4/3 like the online settings show.
my car is alot quieter with the wastegate position setting
, sounds nice, But will get used to the menu more, and make finer adjustments as time goes on.
still learning.
rsgordini
Active member
Map 4 is a safety map..
So if its going from map 1 or map 5 to map 4 (i think it flashes 4 times) then this is a safety feature...
Something not ok.. boost too low or too high according to target boost..
More learned people will tell you.. I'm no expert..
The indicators go on once you hit around 5000rpm or so depending where set. Shift change indicator..
So if its going from map 1 or map 5 to map 4 (i think it flashes 4 times) then this is a safety feature...
Something not ok.. boost too low or too high according to target boost..
More learned people will tell you.. I'm no expert..
The indicators go on once you hit around 5000rpm or so depending where set. Shift change indicator..
If you are going to map 4, you need to connect that usb cable and start logging. Else you just shooting the dark.
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
General.Massacre
///Member
Hi guys, thanks for the input.
The car is not going to Map 4 anymore. stays on Map5.
This morning when i started the car, and drove to the Gym, i just left the complex, and my hazards flashed twice. now i know there is a Oil temp warning to tell you when i reaches optimal Running Temp, but there is no way it had reached that, as i had just started driving, and i was not near any shifting position, so wasnt a shift light.
When i left the gym, started it, car was still in Park, and the hazards flashed twice again.
So i have no idea what it was, car is still in Map 5.
I have my oil guage hijacked to Target Boost indication, and when i go WOT, i see its dead centre, so boost is on target, i assum this means no boost leak?
Fuel gauge Hijack shows the needle just after the middle mark at WOT. but i also dont think i was at optimum running temp yet. maybe makes a difference not sure. Need to try get that data cable down the firewall somehow and log.
Any veteran JB4 users know whats going on?
The car is not going to Map 4 anymore. stays on Map5.
This morning when i started the car, and drove to the Gym, i just left the complex, and my hazards flashed twice. now i know there is a Oil temp warning to tell you when i reaches optimal Running Temp, but there is no way it had reached that, as i had just started driving, and i was not near any shifting position, so wasnt a shift light.
When i left the gym, started it, car was still in Park, and the hazards flashed twice again.
So i have no idea what it was, car is still in Map 5.
I have my oil guage hijacked to Target Boost indication, and when i go WOT, i see its dead centre, so boost is on target, i assum this means no boost leak?
Fuel gauge Hijack shows the needle just after the middle mark at WOT. but i also dont think i was at optimum running temp yet. maybe makes a difference not sure. Need to try get that data cable down the firewall somehow and log.
Any veteran JB4 users know whats going on?
Again setting needs to checked. Under FUD settings, previous user could have set the JB4 to become active and indicate whej water temp is right and not oil. That indicator is much quicker and i persoanlly always keep it to flash twicr when oil temps hit 70 degrees instead of water.
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Again setting needs to checked. Under FUD settings, previous user could have set the JB4 to become active and indicate whej water temp is right and not oil. That indicator is much quicker and i persoanlly always keep it to flash twicr when oil temps hit 70 degrees instead of water.
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
General.Massacre
///Member
Alright guys, thanks.
Is it then safe to run as is on my car with Map 5? just regular driving with no WOT?
Till i have the cable run through the car and can setup the laptop and can log?
Is it then safe to run as is on my car with Map 5? just regular driving with no WOT?
Till i have the cable run through the car and can setup the laptop and can log?
General.Massacre
///Member
Thanks man. PM'd you
General.Massacre
///Member
Hi Guys, another update, seeing as i dont post much about my car changes, as there arent many. lol
Ever since buying the Car, the drivers side Air Vent tab was broken, previous owner kept it in the armrest luckily, and the actual tab was luckily still attached to the inner part of the vent, so today my SO and I were at Makro, and i saw an item called 5 Second Fix, uses a special Glue and a UV light to cure the glue, i was looking at buying a new tab from Ebay, but figured id try repair it first.
Here is the Product
Initially in my stupidity, i put the tab together off the Vent, and realised that it has to be wrapped around the vent, so, i stripped the glue, and stripped the entire Vent off the car. was actually a mission, and had to be super careful not to break anything, but got it done, and started the process putting the tab back on the Vents.
Here is the UV Light setting the Glue,
I didnt take a a pic of the Vent placed back in the car, but you all know how that looks, and its operating 100%, the glue is cured, and solid as a rock. so i think im good to go. glad to have the adjuster tab back on there.
thanks in advance.
PS, i have the Wastegate Repair Kit also, that finally arrived in the post, so i will have it Booked in for repair as soon as i can, however, i have a radiator leak, which needs attending to, so that will have to be done first i think, for now i can live with the rattle.
Ever since buying the Car, the drivers side Air Vent tab was broken, previous owner kept it in the armrest luckily, and the actual tab was luckily still attached to the inner part of the vent, so today my SO and I were at Makro, and i saw an item called 5 Second Fix, uses a special Glue and a UV light to cure the glue, i was looking at buying a new tab from Ebay, but figured id try repair it first.
Here is the Product
Initially in my stupidity, i put the tab together off the Vent, and realised that it has to be wrapped around the vent, so, i stripped the glue, and stripped the entire Vent off the car. was actually a mission, and had to be super careful not to break anything, but got it done, and started the process putting the tab back on the Vents.
Here is the UV Light setting the Glue,
I didnt take a a pic of the Vent placed back in the car, but you all know how that looks, and its operating 100%, the glue is cured, and solid as a rock. so i think im good to go. glad to have the adjuster tab back on there.
thanks in advance.
PS, i have the Wastegate Repair Kit also, that finally arrived in the post, so i will have it Booked in for repair as soon as i can, however, i have a radiator leak, which needs attending to, so that will have to be done first i think, for now i can live with the rattle.
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