discussion Petrol Quality for Performance cars - South Africa

Spanky

Well-known member
What does a 20L can of each (24/7RF & BP) cost? Reseller prices available on the web seem steep AF @ R65/litre.
 

TurboLlew

Honorary ///Member
What does a 20L can of each (24/7RF & BP) cost? Reseller prices available on the web seem steep AF @ R65/litre.

Last I had checked it was R35 for 98 and R38 for 102 when buying 20L at a time

they have multi-buy deals as well - you need to check in with them. Been a while since I bought.
 

TurboLlew

Honorary ///Member
What does a 20L can of each (24/7RF & BP) cost? Reseller prices available on the web seem steep AF @ R65/litre.

Also on this - quick check (same exercise I did a while ago)

A jug of OB1 is 270 depending on where you buy it... you mix that with 25L petrol (going by their website)... to give you between 98 & 100 (very scientific... but anyway)

At the current petrol price this works out to R33 per litre... sooooo do you go through the mission of mixing and calculating and all of that stuff or just deal with 98 or 102 octane from a tin that you know is gonna be a consistent 98 or 102?

That said, still some justification to do your mixing and guesswork with some hopes and prayers.... if you had to do the same calc with NF Ultra it actually makes ZERO sense.

I've asked for pricing so will see if the above estimates are still in range. Again: Disclaimer it has been quite some time before I did this last
 

jayaynikkal

Member
Breaking it down: Add 5 litres of ethanol (E95 or E96) to an empty-ish tank before filling up. Depending on tank size and level that should give you between 10% and 12% mix. I use about 5litres on every tank and top ip with between 42 and 45 litres of 95. JB4 Map 1 with no knock retard / issues.

Buying the metal containers is a PITA. You need a syphon to use those without messing. I usually just transfer the ethanol from the can to a 25 litre plastic container as those are easier to decant into a measuring bucket, from there to a 10litre fuel container, into the boot, off to the pump.


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Is there a particular reason for throwing in the ethanol first?

I'm interested in running E10 in my car but would it not be easier to fill up at the petrol station then top up with ethanol at home?
 

TurboLlew

Honorary ///Member
Is there a particular reason for throwing in the ethanol first?

I'm interested in running E10 in my car but would it not be easier to fill up at the petrol station then top up with ethanol at home?

Pouring 5L/10L in at the petrol station is not really a big deal. You're going to be driving to your house from the petrol station with different fuel to what you drove in with.
 

TurboLlew

Honorary ///Member
The other option here is of course water injection and Meth... These have anti-detonation characteristics and even just spraying water will cool your charged air. Ran both of these in the past and would not hesitate to do it on the F90 when plan ends. Never got around to it on the F10. BMW themselves had a system (that I hoped would become an M Performance part) on the M4 DTM or Champ edition

The downside is you must be VERY comfortable using meth, familiar with it's properties, buy as good of a system as you can afford in terms of safeties and good integration... and of course trust the installer. I guess this goes for any mods but with meth, because it burns with an invisible flame, you really need your wits about you. Most guys I knew running it back when I did, ran it for safety but you can tune for extra power. This may no longer apply as systems have become smarter and can integrate better with the ECU (and drop you to a safe map or safe zones in your map). This wasn't a thing 10 years ago on rubbish subaru ECUs.

The BIG positive for direct injection motors is that it is 'effectively' port injection and thus carbon build up is not a thing.
 

Spanky

Well-known member
I think OB is still the way to go.
I've used LiquiMoly Octane Plus a few times, each time switching MHD from 95RON Stage 2 to 98RON Stage 2+, without any timing pull.

At the current price of R184/150ml, which lifts 50l of fuel by up to 4RON, it only adds R3.68/litre. Much cheaper than going for the 98RON premix, even if you put in TWO cans OB for peace of mind.
 

TurboLlew

Honorary ///Member
I think OB is still the way to go.
I've used LiquiMoly Octane Plus a few times, each time switching MHD from 95RON Stage 2 to 98RON Stage 2+, without any timing pull.

At the current price of R184/150ml, which lifts 50l of fuel by up to 4RON, it only adds R3.68/litre. Much cheaper than going for the 98RON premix, even if you put in TWO cans OB for peace of mind.

Does it not come at the expense of extra wear on plugs and deposits in your exhaust etc like NF does? That does seem like good value
 

Spanky

Well-known member
Does it not come at the expense of extra wear on plugs and deposits in your exhaust etc like NF does? That does seem like good value

Possible I'm sure, but I have no quantifiable data on that.

For my personal use, I think its effect on plugs etc is negligible because I will run the car on a 95RON fuel & map for the most part. Only using OB when I go do a pass run or something of the sort. I've done maybe 15ish tanks with OB in.
 

jayaynikkal

Member
I think OB is still the way to go.
I've used LiquiMoly Octane Plus a few times, each time switching MHD from 95RON Stage 2 to 98RON Stage 2+, without any timing pull.

At the current price of R184/150ml, which lifts 50l of fuel by up to 4RON, it only adds R3.68/litre. Much cheaper than going for the 98RON premix, even if you put in TWO cans OB for peace of mind.
Damn, I didn't know about LiquiMoly Octane Plus - that is insane value for money!
 
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