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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
My M POWER
- Thread starter bilal04
- Start date
andrewbuch
///Member
:drool::drool::drool::drool::drool::drool::drool::drool::drool:
DonovanPorter
///Member
very nice :drool: , seems that dealer sells very well hey only 2 cars on the floor
George Smooth
///Member
Wow. Awesome looking ride. That dealer needs to get some stock?
MPOWER_SHIV
New member
now all u need is a spanking chiplogic or dastek ecu chip n shes good to go. better still excede should put a nice package together for u. visit the Harman kardon website n theyl give u a list of the S.A importers....enjoy:clap:
Matt Q
///Member
Welcome to the club - that is a super sweet ride you got yourself there 
Ok, with Bilal's permission, I am dropping his PM to me into this thread to answer some modding questions :
Alriiiight
Let me start by saying that if you are new to an M3 then my advice will always be the same - this cars already goes faster than you can probably drive safely. Don't worry about increasing power, rather work on power delivery and handling to get the most out of your ride, so ...
1. That's fine.. there is no need to go big budget till your m-plan is done anyway
2. NA - better if you want to keep the costs down. You need to look at removing weight and rotating masses from the drivertrain to free up power and increase revability. More air in and out will also allow you to tune a beefier map and will free up some extra power.
Staying on induction and engine, in order of preference I would reccomend:
a) Power pulleys - horsepower for free and the dealer wont notice (Turner or Rogue or AA)
b) CF Induction kit - go Gruppe M or turner.. there are others but these are the best 2
c) Delete cats
d) Lightweight flywheel and clutch kit - the best for NA is still the UUC Motorwerkes combo which uses the E39 M5 pressure plate with a custom billet alluminium flywheel - very affordable and an awesome piece of kit
e) Software upgrade - but not till you've done a-d or you won't be getting the full benefit.
With the above you will pretty much max out on NA before doing anything as costly as cams.. you can also delete the crank fan and go electric to free up another 10hp or so..
3.If you are going to be doing 1/4miles you will need to get away from the stock M3 clutch and get something which can be re-faced fairly easily as the stock dual mass will die fairly quickly.
a) Delete CDV (search for this on the forums) for quick changes on the strip
b) Shortshift kit - get the UUC with DSSR - best in the bizness by far
c) Look into changing the dif ratio on the car - you will sacrifice top end but will be quicker off the line
d) Brakes - you will need a BBK or at the very least uprated pads, brake fluid and lines... check Stoptech, AP Racing and Rotora
e) Suspension - As you don't seem to be a twisty driver, you shouldn't need more than a set of lowering springs.. look at HK's. To combat the body twist in the cabrio, look into some front AND REAR strutbraces and get some uprated anti-sway bars to help tune out the body roll. Trany mounts would also help
f) DO YOUR UPGRADE TO THE REAR SUSPENSION MOUNTS IMMEDIATELY!!!!!!!! Cannot stress enough how important this is if you drive hard
4. Covered in the above - get an app for your iphone to measure your pulls and practise loads
5. Pretty much covered in above then.. I would look at uprated lights and LED's wherever possible to reduce parasitic draw on alternator
6. Ditch the Harmon Kardon as it's already incomplete and is NOT bang for buck... go with any of the big aftermarket brands here but watch out for throwing your rear/front weight balance with amps and subs.. the best sound you'll ever hear comes from under your bonnet
Ok, with Bilal's permission, I am dropping his PM to me into this thread to answer some modding questions :
bilal04 said:
Alriiiight
Let me start by saying that if you are new to an M3 then my advice will always be the same - this cars already goes faster than you can probably drive safely. Don't worry about increasing power, rather work on power delivery and handling to get the most out of your ride, so ...
1. That's fine.. there is no need to go big budget till your m-plan is done anyway
2. NA - better if you want to keep the costs down. You need to look at removing weight and rotating masses from the drivertrain to free up power and increase revability. More air in and out will also allow you to tune a beefier map and will free up some extra power.
Staying on induction and engine, in order of preference I would reccomend:
a) Power pulleys - horsepower for free and the dealer wont notice (Turner or Rogue or AA)
b) CF Induction kit - go Gruppe M or turner.. there are others but these are the best 2
c) Delete cats
d) Lightweight flywheel and clutch kit - the best for NA is still the UUC Motorwerkes combo which uses the E39 M5 pressure plate with a custom billet alluminium flywheel - very affordable and an awesome piece of kit
e) Software upgrade - but not till you've done a-d or you won't be getting the full benefit.
With the above you will pretty much max out on NA before doing anything as costly as cams.. you can also delete the crank fan and go electric to free up another 10hp or so..
3.If you are going to be doing 1/4miles you will need to get away from the stock M3 clutch and get something which can be re-faced fairly easily as the stock dual mass will die fairly quickly.
a) Delete CDV (search for this on the forums) for quick changes on the strip
b) Shortshift kit - get the UUC with DSSR - best in the bizness by far
c) Look into changing the dif ratio on the car - you will sacrifice top end but will be quicker off the line
d) Brakes - you will need a BBK or at the very least uprated pads, brake fluid and lines... check Stoptech, AP Racing and Rotora
e) Suspension - As you don't seem to be a twisty driver, you shouldn't need more than a set of lowering springs.. look at HK's. To combat the body twist in the cabrio, look into some front AND REAR strutbraces and get some uprated anti-sway bars to help tune out the body roll. Trany mounts would also help
f) DO YOUR UPGRADE TO THE REAR SUSPENSION MOUNTS IMMEDIATELY!!!!!!!! Cannot stress enough how important this is if you drive hard
4. Covered in the above - get an app for your iphone to measure your pulls and practise loads
5. Pretty much covered in above then.. I would look at uprated lights and LED's wherever possible to reduce parasitic draw on alternator
6. Ditch the Harmon Kardon as it's already incomplete and is NOT bang for buck... go with any of the big aftermarket brands here but watch out for throwing your rear/front weight balance with amps and subs.. the best sound you'll ever hear comes from under your bonnet
