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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
Maintenance for Jeff's M5
- Thread starter jeff_denning
- Start date
oil filter seems to be the only thing worth getting from them...
jeff_denning
Active member
:yuck:
@kabal: So the oil you posted, I can only exclusively get from BMW? I bought a litre yesterday, so I'll double check the label on there. Thanks for the feedback guys, you probably saved me the M5 motor!
@kabal: So the oil you posted, I can only exclusively get from BMW? I bought a litre yesterday, so I'll double check the label on there. Thanks for the feedback guys, you probably saved me the M5 motor!
johnsone
New member
jeff said:
hey jeff the parts and oils for these cars is realy expensive but hey we have to do them .... i buy most of my parts from bmw uk and they send them to me for half or less than wot we pay in SA and then the wait 2 weeks but it works for me they ship up to 30kg for me at R350 from the uk
jeff said:
jeff wot oil are u running now in the car i had a very expensive lesson i change my oil got the OEM oil from bmw for the M model cars some castrol 10w 60 and after a week i had problems i have a german mechanic who worked in the factory at bmw germany he told me with the km on the car i should have never change the diet of the car thats y i ran into problems my fix cost me R40 k on my E39 M 5
Sith said:
long time no see hey i went to the car wash near the ETV studios and the guys there told me about how gr8 your car looks and u wash your car there by them ...do u know wot oil to get for the gearbox wanne change it did the diff oil after i had a noise on it and that saved me a diff
veridico said:
i could mybe get u all the oils from bmw for R2000 i know some people
Sith
New member
Yes guys, you must use TWS engine oil. However, I have heard Liqui Molly is even better, and it is a German product. I am using that in my gearbox and diff, and no problems. @Jeff and johnsone, try Rolf at the old Bruce's in Kenilworth for oils and servicing. Tell Rolf you are friends with that anal Sith guy with the M5.
blackM5beast
New member
Don't forget to check the drive shaft coupling/Guibo...Its a consumable.
jeff_denning
Active member
Oil & filter changed.
A HUGE thanks to Mike - he dropped off 10 litres of Mobil1 which he kept for me for ages, awesome dude - really, really appreciate it.
Righto's, so after getting messy and changing out the oil I could finally drive the car properly. Here's what I've noticed though.... I can't seem to figure out what's wrong.
CPS, Vanos, Vanos Seals, DSC, Diff, Plugs. I'm a little lost.
Once the car is warmed up and at running temp, whenever I accelerate hard under 4000rpm the car bogs down. The rev's go up but the car doesn't go anywhere. Anything above 4000rpm things are fine and she's pulling like a demon.
I've done a fair amount of reading up and symptoms for the Vanos Seals almost fit this perfectly - except for difficult pull off's in 1st gear. So with that said, I'm leaning towards replacing the Vanos Seals. BUT - intermittently, the car will jerk in 2nd gear. Hard or soft accelerations, 2nd gear seems to make the car jump until I either change gears or put the clutch in - CPS maybe?
Suggestions are appreciated guys! Would like to do as much with DIY. Probably just a good idea to change the plugs anyway.
A HUGE thanks to Mike - he dropped off 10 litres of Mobil1 which he kept for me for ages, awesome dude - really, really appreciate it.
Righto's, so after getting messy and changing out the oil I could finally drive the car properly. Here's what I've noticed though.... I can't seem to figure out what's wrong.
CPS, Vanos, Vanos Seals, DSC, Diff, Plugs. I'm a little lost.
Once the car is warmed up and at running temp, whenever I accelerate hard under 4000rpm the car bogs down. The rev's go up but the car doesn't go anywhere. Anything above 4000rpm things are fine and she's pulling like a demon.
I've done a fair amount of reading up and symptoms for the Vanos Seals almost fit this perfectly - except for difficult pull off's in 1st gear. So with that said, I'm leaning towards replacing the Vanos Seals. BUT - intermittently, the car will jerk in 2nd gear. Hard or soft accelerations, 2nd gear seems to make the car jump until I either change gears or put the clutch in - CPS maybe?
Suggestions are appreciated guys! Would like to do as much with DIY. Probably just a good idea to change the plugs anyway.
do you have a dyno graph? could be the way it was tuned if you have a graph you could use it to compare your shape against what a stock curve should look like...
jeff_denning
Active member
Sankekur said:
Also thought that at first, checked them 2 weeks ago - still clean.
moranor@axis said:
Unfortunately not dude.
The engine electronics, ignition and fuel has been remapped, Burgy reckons that's where the problem is coming in. Took the M5 for a drive yesterday again, when I turn DSC off - the problem goes away.
jeff_denning
Active member
Sankekur said:
Not yet, dunno why I didn't think of that... will give it a bash tonight and see. If the car is fine after that, where from there? Replace MAF's?
Sankekur
///Member
jeff said:
When you unplug and the car no longer feels like it bogs and it runs smoother, then chances are good its the mafs.
Reason I mention this is that I have heard and read that e39's tend to go through mafs pretty quickly.
Yeah if they are gone then you need to replace, you might try cleaning, but there are mixed opinions about the effectiveness of this.
M318is - zn
New member
Check out this site, some useful DIY's
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/index.htm
We also had some weird symtoms with our M5 and it turned out to be that the ecu fan wasnt working properly and causing the ecu to overheat occasionally.
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/index.htm
We also had some weird symtoms with our M5 and it turned out to be that the ecu fan wasnt working properly and causing the ecu to overheat occasionally.
M
Mike1
Guest
P.S it wasnt Mobil 1 but rather the Race Spec Liqui Moly Fully Synthetic 10W60. :thumbs:
jeff_denning
Active member
Sankekur said:
Awesome, thanks a lot! Fingers crossed it's the MAF's and nothing more hectic.
Just wanna confirm, I just need to unplug the MAF's or do I actually need to physically take them out?
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