M135i PWG tuned by SR Speedworx

[Jive_E46]

Drivetrain Woes
Had to get the center case housing replaced as it was completely busted. I have the impression that the issue actually started at the back, the differential mount bushing. That bushing was also busted which is what caused the propshaft to become unbalanced.
The symptoms were pretty hard to pick up during normal driving but under heavier loads there was a distinct vibration, around 40 KM/H and then it goes away at higher speeds.
From an early assessment it looks like the entire subframe will need to be pulled out. Anyone else experienced this?
Help me pls...

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I had a look under my car as well and found that the bushing in my car is also cracked. I checked the center bearing. In my case I was chasing a vibration starting at 110km. Turns out it's my wheels. So, No issue but took it to a mech and they said that bushing should not be an issue. It's only ever an issue if the crack goes right though but u cannot really see it from that angle. I think he was running away from doing the job.

Anyways, after some research, you can get away with replacing the bushing with some smart moves. The proper way is to remove the diff, disconnect the propshaft and drive shafts and lower the subframe as per the procedure here.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...guide/33-17-rear-axle-differential-mountings/

But this is just my own opinion... If you lower the diff with the propshaft turned so that the u joint bends correctly facing down at the centre bearing, you can replace the bushing without disconnecting prop or drive shafts. (the u joint is meant for exactly that) Just lower it enough to get the bushing press into the subframe, above the diff.



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Yeah sounds about right. Dynamic Drivetrain didnt have knowledge about the functionality of that U Joint so they proceeded to disconnect everything and pull the subframe off the car, labour was 22 hours....

I must say that the car is alot tighter, the worn in bushing and bearings that were replaced allowed for alot more play in the car.


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[Jive_E46]

1 June 2019 update:
I decided to swap out the Burger Motorsports intake in favor of the stock intake system with a Tweek/Karp performance panel filter.
While swapping out the intake the coolant pipe leading from the coolant reservoir to the radiator broke and sent coolant flying all over the engine bay, with the intake off it reached the depths of my fan belt which left me with jitters. On further evaluation we noticed that the coolant pipe was completely brittle and was bound to break at some point, luckily not while I was on the move.
The BMW dealership I bought the part from absolutely washed my wallet as usual with 2 bottles of coolant and a new coolant pipe setting me back close to R1.5k if not more.

Replacing the coolant pipe was ridiculously easy and draining of remaining coolant was not necessary, we filled a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant and primed the system. Heres the steps out of interest:
1. Place Heater at 28 degrees and at full heat with ignition on only.
2. Hold accelerator at kick down for 15 sec.
3. Water pump and coolant system begin to prime for about 12 minutes.

After the 2 day stint of immobility the N55 has been back on the road since.

Abit sickened by the quality and price tag of the piping but nonetheless my journey with a F20 BMW out of motorplan continues.

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[Holiman]

I have had the same happen... How's the flat panel intake?

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[Chrism135i]

same thing happened to me hahah i think the pipe alone is 900 bucks. check your PCV crank vent hose that's another part that goes brittle had to replace mine recently as well another 700 bucks.

 

[Jive_E46]

I have had the same happen... How's the flat panel intake?

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Theres a lot less intake noise now but the car pulls more consistently, the watermethanol effect is a lot bigger and intake temps stay waaay down(average 17 degrees) instead of sucking in hot air from the engine bay. I use WMI everyday which meant I needed to sort out the cooling once and for all.
The panel itself comes with a cleaning solvent and a foam that needs to be applied everytime the panel is cleaned.

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---

same thing happened to me hahah i think the pipe alone is 900 bucks. check your PCV crank vent hose that's another part that goes brittle had to replace mine recently as well another 700 bucks.

I think it's a well known fact that BMW dealerships set their prices to whatever they feel like(I've seen oil range from R90 to R140), I went to Goldwagen but they didnt stock the part, will try out German Age next.
Thanks for the heads up man! Definitely getting that changed ASAP.

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[Twinz]

Good progress:thumbs:

 

[Kyloo]

car is coming along nicely bru and maintained very well

 

[Jive_E46]

Good progress:thumbs:

Thanks guys!
Mileage: 126 800KM
Heres some recent pics of her:

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[Jive_E46]

Still running
Major service done.
135 000 KM strong

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[Jive_E46]

Howzit gents, my bonnet clip in the right hand side(closest to the bonnet lever) seized up and the cable came straight off the latch.
I've had to pull off the right front tyre and wheel arch to try and get as close as possible to the clips but getting them open is a nightmare, I dont think it's possible to pull the front bumper off without having the bonnet open. I've found myself sticking my hand into the abyss and yanking whatever I can to get it open but the cable stillisnt catching to the lever. I'm sure the cable just came off the lever mechanism but getting it back in there is impossible, anyone else seen this issue on a F20/F30 ?

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[Jive_E46]

Managed to get the bonnet open through the wheel arch and found the round the plastic end of the "Bowden" cable was broken so it dropped out of position. Replaced the unit from BMW and noticed it came with some design updates. Around R310 for the Bowden cable. About a 30 minute job to fit the new cable and weeks to get the bonnet open through the wheel arch lol.

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[Jive_E46]

My baby is sold...
De-modified the car but left the full exhaust system in. Still got some mods up for sale, DM me for prices-- all at a bargain:
1. JB4 with G6 board and PWG harness, running ISO firmware.
2. BMS JB4 meth controller
3. VRSF coated charge pipe
4. H&R 30mm drop springs
5. M4 style kidney grilles (Pre-LCI)

The reason it's gone is simply because one drove it into the ground, by the end of 2019 the car felt so unsure of itself, as if one could no longer rely on the chassis to put down the 700NM torque that I knew it could handle all those years. It felt like dicing it was properly hurting Nikki so guy had no choice but to sell. If chassis reinforcements were actually feasible then keeping the car could have been an option. Either way it's not a real M and I was being abit optimistic in thinking I could run that car forever. ' wouldn't have wanted to put that shit on another forum member or fellow fanatic that's why it sold out of those circles.
From kicking ass at 15th in Midrand to running 63s on the highways I've learnt so much about cars and the motor industry from those 5 years of ownership.

We'll never forget the legend that was Nikki the N55 PWG M135i

On to the next project, catch my new blog on the 3er forum.

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[Holiman]

I looked up to this car partly because I am also driving mine high mileage but sad to see it go. I'll pm you for the springs and jb4.

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[Jive_E46]

I looked up to this car partly because I am also driving mine high mileage but sad to see it go. I'll pm you for the springs and jb4.

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Appreciate the kind words, thank you

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[AshG108]

Sad to see this one go bud, but thanks for the inspiration...with reading up this thread gave me the balls to buy myself a PWG M135i as well and loving it!!

No regrets at all!