M135i PWG tuned by SR Speedworx

Jive_E46

Active member
yush1 said:
Unfortunately the only way you get traction at tarlton is with slicks and track bite. With normal tyres it feels like the road is wet.:dunnoanymore:
This is true, been trying to look for someone who can supply trackbite or maybe even a home recipe. It has to be said that there is no prep that is done to the track on Fridays and the left lane had an oil spill

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Jive_E46

Active member
Latest Update!! :)
Mileage: 115 000KM

So I needed to turn my attention to my ZF8HP45 gearbox this time around. Sent it in to ZF Edenvale and they replaced transmission oil and performed re-adaptations to the multiple clutch packs. ZF recommended a transmission check every 40 000KM for tuned cars

The V1 JB4 board(2016) seems to have malfunctioned and was subsequently replaced under warranty with help from BMS America. The bluetooth app would throw out some No Description codes. The V2 board for the F-Series cars have also been released.
Among the other codes that I received were:
MAP sensor short to ground
MAP sensor short circuit
Rail pressure sensor short to ground

All sorted now and All done through SR Speedworx.
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Chrism135i

Member
hi i see you have replaced your entire valvetronic 3 system (servo motor, eccentric shaft and oil spray nozzle) mine seems to be on the way out as well. what issues were you experiencing before you had to change it.

and if you don't mind me asking how much did is cost to replace?(PM me if you can):ty::ty::ty:
 

Jive_E46

Active member
Ravs_35 said:
Sup.
Good power, When are we doing some runs? :fencelook:
If you see me around just ask ;) more than happy to have a go.

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Chrism135i said:
hi i see you have replaced your entire valvetronic 3 system (servo motor, eccentric shaft and oil spray nozzle) mine seems to be on the way out as well. what issues were you experiencing before you had to change it.

and if you don't mind me asking how much did is cost to replace?(PM me if you can):ty::ty::ty:
Hi I'll PM you the prices, but basically my servo motor had failed and there was physical evidence of materials failure on the eccentric camshaft and wearing on the lobes. The oil nozzle had also failed and was replaced, all BMW OEM parts. The servo motor also powers the VANOS system coincidently. If you drive for long periods of time without the Valvetronic the absence forces the throttle open at 100% even with out actual physical accelerator depression. This can obviously be dangerous. In terms of driving in the early stages it's impossible to notice.

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M135i f20 pwg

New member
Nice build. I also have the same car but are having issues with fuelling and cannot seem to get the boost above 19psi without the car sputtering. mods are intake, dp, stepped cooler,stage 1 turbo upgrade and recently added a walbro 450 lpfp. what boost are you running? and is that power on the wheels? what gear was the car dyno'd?
 

Jive_E46

Active member
M135i f20 pwg said:
Nice build. I also have the same car but are having issues with fuelling and cannot seem to get the boost above 19psi without the car sputtering. mods are intake, dp, stepped cooler,stage 1 turbo upgrade and recently added a walbro 450 lpfp. what boost are you running? and is that power on the wheels? what gear was the car dyno'd?
What's up friend ! I run it at about 22PSI with stock fuelling+WMI . Only advice I have for you is to run JB4 ISO and a MHD BEF because the ECU is going to struggle with the extra air mass from the Hybrid Turbo. That sputtering is possibly misfiring. Pics with power are further up the feed.

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M135i f20 pwg said:
Nice build. I also have the same car but are having issues with fuelling and cannot seem to get the boost above 19psi without the car sputtering. mods are intake, dp, stepped cooler,stage 1 turbo upgrade and recently added a walbro 450 lpfp. what boost are you running? and is that power on the wheels? what gear was the car dyno'd?
The dyno settings for my car had and always will be:
DSC OFF
GEAR 5
Handbrake down lol
Remove bedplates
Dial in and dala :D

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Niwou

New member
Very happy with SR Speedworx!!!
They do most of the work on our 135i and they easily managed to fix things other so called experts could not sort after eye watering bills
 

M135i f20 pwg

New member
Jive_m135i said:
M135i f20 pwg said:
Nice build. I also have the same car but are having issues with fuelling and cannot seem to get the boost above 19psi without the car sputtering. mods are intake, dp, stepped cooler,stage 1 turbo upgrade and recently added a walbro 450 lpfp. what boost are you running? and is that power on the wheels? what gear was the car dyno'd?
What's up friend ! I run it at about 22PSI with stock fuelling+WMI . Only advice I have for you is to run JB4 ISO and a MHD BEF because the ECU is going to struggle with the extra air mass from the Hybrid Turbo. That sputtering is possibly misfiring. Pics with power are further up the feed.

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M135i f20 pwg said:
Nice build. I also have the same car but are having issues with fuelling and cannot seem to get the boost above 19psi without the car sputtering. mods are intake, dp, stepped cooler,stage 1 turbo upgrade and recently added a walbro 450 lpfp. what boost are you running? and is that power on the wheels? what gear was the car dyno'd?
The dyno settings for my car had and always will be:
DSC OFF
GEAR 5
Handbrake down lol
Remove bedplates
Dial in and dala :D

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My car is fully flashed (no jb4) by a local tuner so you would recommend wmi in order to achieve around 22psi?
Interesting power for 22psi because I made 301kw 598nm with 17-18psi in 5th gear. When I up the target psi the fuel pressure dropped dramatically. FYI when it sputtering there is no fault codes at all. I'm just wondering how you managed to get 22psi without no fuelling upgrades because I am struggling. Any advice?
 

Jive_E46

Active member
M135i f20 pwg said:
Nice build. I also have the same car but are having issues with fuelling and cannot seem to get the boost above 19psi without the car sputtering. mods are intake, dp, stepped cooler,stage 1 turbo upgrade and recently added a walbro 450 lpfp. what boost are you running? and is that power on the wheels? what gear was the car dyno'd?
Just remembered! You need a N20 TMAP sensor for hybrid turbos, BMW sell an OEM one

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M135i f20 pwg said:
Jive_m135i said:
M135i f20 pwg said:
Nice build. I also have the same car but are having issues with fuelling and cannot seem to get the boost above 19psi without the car sputtering. mods are intake, dp, stepped cooler,stage 1 turbo upgrade and recently added a walbro 450 lpfp. what boost are you running? and is that power on the wheels? what gear was the car dyno'd?
What's up friend ! I run it at about 22PSI with stock fuelling+WMI . Only advice I have for you is to run JB4 ISO and a MHD BEF because the ECU is going to struggle with the extra air mass from the Hybrid Turbo. That sputtering is possibly misfiring. Pics with power are further up the feed.

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M135i f20 pwg said:
Nice build. I also have the same car but are having issues with fuelling and cannot seem to get the boost above 19psi without the car sputtering. mods are intake, dp, stepped cooler,stage 1 turbo upgrade and recently added a walbro 450 lpfp. what boost are you running? and is that power on the wheels? what gear was the car dyno'd?
The dyno settings for my car had and always will be:
DSC OFF
GEAR 5
Handbrake down lol
Remove bedplates
Dial in and dala :D

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk



My car is fully flashed (no jb4) by a local tuner so you would recommend wmi in order to achieve around 22psi?
Interesting power for 22psi because I made 301kw 598nm with 17-18psi in 5th gear. When I up the target psi the fuel pressure dropped dramatically. FYI when it sputtering there is no fault codes at all. I'm just wondering how you managed to get 22psi without no fuelling upgrades because I am struggling. Any advice?

Map 6 with high octane fuel. Custom tuned.

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Jive_E46

Active member
120 000KM service time

What's up guys , recently hit 120 000KM on my 2013 M135i PWG. Did a thorough maintenance and check on the car and heres what Stan and Rodz found at SR Speedworx:

1. The rear pads were changed to EBC yellow stuff, effectively running yellow stuff all round. Sensors replaced.

2. Oil Filter housing gasket tore and was subsequently replaced along with oil filter.

3. Scheduled oil service, 15 000km using Shell Fully Synthetic

4. Valvetronic system had to go through a relearn after being disabled by the ECU. Now running Code free

5. Coolant level was checked.

6. "Boost pressure lower than expected" code still being thrown during long drives. Turning it off and on solves the issue.

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Jive_E46

Active member
120 000KM
XHP Stage 3 for F-Series
What's up guys I recently installed the xHP stage 3 software for the ZF8HP45 gearbox and its feeling pretty good!
Stan did it at SR Speedworx and install time took about 12 minutes.

The flashtool advised that the car be driven moderately for 80km for the gearbox to perform re- adaptation. Heres what I've observed so far:
SHIFT SPEED CONTROLLED BY ECO PRO/SPORT BUTTON
1. Slow shifting mode= Comfort
2. Medium shifting mode= Sport
3. Fastest shifting mode= Sport+ or DSC OFF

Everyday driving is so much smoother! The gearbox seems to be much more intuitive and more flexible to different driving situations.

Knocking the lever into DS(in comfort) brings about a new kind of shifting logic which is actually quite nice for spirited driving although gear changes are understandably abit sluggish.

Sport/ Sport + and DSC OFF combined with knocking the gear into DS brings about very aggressive downshifts with lightning quick upshifts. Sounds fantastic when paired with MHD aggressive burbles.

LAUNCH CONTROL: Still abit perplexing to me, even when I'm unsure if I'm engaging the LC function there is a noticeable difference in pick up, as if it no longer bogs. The gearbox needs to be within certain temperature parameters etc. for the LC to work.

Overall the gearbox seems to be holding up pretty well, taking into account the ZF service that was done at 115 000 KM. There is no aggressive jerking on downshift and upshift and shift speeds are noticeably faster even with the slowest shift speed setting.
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Jive_E46

Active member
Veteran said:
Just curious why bootmod 3 isn’t in your setup?
Waaaaay too pricy and it's only beneficial over MHD simply because the flash counter is removed, which means you can continuously flash your car without BMW knowing. I didnt bother wasting my time with BMW customer service and after warranty service charges, I decided to keep the original JB4 bought in 2015 and run an MHD Backend Flash, essentially running a stack.

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Jive_E46

Active member
Drivetrain Woes
Had to get the center case housing replaced as it was completely busted. I have the impression that the issue actually started at the back, the differential mount bushing. That bushing was also busted which is what caused the propshaft to become unbalanced.
The symptoms were pretty hard to pick up during normal driving but under heavier loads there was a distinct vibration, around 40 KM/H and then it goes away at higher speeds.
From an early assessment it looks like the entire subframe will need to be pulled out. Anyone else experienced this?
Help me pls...
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Holiman

Well-known member
Jive_m135i said:
Drivetrain Woes
Had to get the center case housing replaced as it was completely busted. I have the impression that the issue actually started at the back, the differential mount bushing. That bushing was also busted which is what caused the propshaft to become unbalanced.
The symptoms were pretty hard to pick up during normal driving but under heavier loads there was a distinct vibration, around 40 KM/H and then it goes away at higher speeds.
From an early assessment it looks like the entire subframe will need to be pulled out. Anyone else experienced this?
Help me pls...
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I had a look under my car as well and found that the bushing in my car is also cracked. I checked the center bearing. In my case I was chasing a vibration starting at 110km. Turns out it's my wheels. So, No issue but took it to a mech and they said that bushing should not be an issue. It's only ever an issue if the crack goes right though but u cannot really see it from that angle. I think he was running away from doing the job.

Anyways, after some research, you can get away with replacing the bushing with some smart moves. The proper way is to remove the diff, disconnect the propshaft and drive shafts and lower the subframe as per the procedure here.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...guide/33-17-rear-axle-differential-mountings/

But this is just my own opinion... If you lower the diff with the propshaft turned so that the u joint bends correctly facing down at the centre bearing, you can replace the bushing without disconnecting prop or drive shafts. (the u joint is meant for exactly that) Just lower it enough to get the bushing press into the subframe, above the diff.



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