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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
Hi I'm Rommies: Car Updates!!!
- Thread starter Rommies
- Start date
Rommies
Active member
So this is my latest dyno graph on pump fuel:
Yesterday at the VW Kyalami Track Day I could really push my car through her limits. I haven't had so much fun in a long time. My tank was just below half...after the first 15min session...I needed to fill up.
The on board fuel consumption display showed 22.1l/100km. So the nearest fuel station was Engen. So I filled up with primax 95. (Normally I fill up with BP) But none the less...my car performed great.
Oil temperatures was staying constant at 128-130 degrees celsius. On the cool down lap it will drop to about 110 degrees Celsius.
Damn track days are really fun!!
Yesterday at the VW Kyalami Track Day I could really push my car through her limits. I haven't had so much fun in a long time. My tank was just below half...after the first 15min session...I needed to fill up.
The on board fuel consumption display showed 22.1l/100km. So the nearest fuel station was Engen. So I filled up with primax 95. (Normally I fill up with BP) But none the less...my car performed great.
Oil temperatures was staying constant at 128-130 degrees celsius. On the cool down lap it will drop to about 110 degrees Celsius.
Damn track days are really fun!!
Crash_Nemesis
///Member
:bravo: Awesome NEWS!!!
Rommies
Active member
After much consideration...I finally purchased the Powerbrake upgrade kit. After all the power performance upgrades...I think it is quite important to start looking into better braking options. Rather safe than sorry.
Powerbrake seemed like a valid brake upgrade option as their pricing is affordable. Their products has also proven to be trustworthy over the years.
As I received the goods from Dawn wing Couriers
Everything neatly packed inside
Front braided brake lines.
High performance brake fluid. It has a high boiling point.
Endless PB05 competition brake pads.
In terms of the squeal - that would be the Endless ME20 pads. ME20 is often used on hard core track cars, that are still driven on the road since they work from cold and are not abrasive. The down side is squeal at light pedal pressured.
The Endless PB05 is dead quiet on street, but can handle light track use with ease. It has slightly less heat range and friction than the ME20 compound though.
Last but not least - Powerbrake GT Series front brake upgrade kit (street/track) - GT1023122PB05
I can't wait to fit these. :joy::joy::joy:
This is the important notice that I received from Powerbrake:
"IMPORTANT - In the kit box, you will find the disc fitment and bed-in instructions. Please follow these to the letter. Correct fitment and bed-in can affect brake performance and product life by up to 20%. Please pay particular attention to the correct cleaning of the hubs before fitting the new discs. Failure to do this can lead to disc damage and brake judder!"
When you remove your old discs, your hubs will look something like this:
Please use a brass brush in a drill to clean the hubs. Before fitting the new discs, the hubs must be thoroughly cleaned and look like this:
I would highly recommend doing business with Leon at Powerbrake. Their service is great & effective. After EFT payment they did an overnight courier shipment. It was dispatched 16:30PM yesterday afternoon...This morning at 08:05AM I received my goods.
Powerbrake seemed like a valid brake upgrade option as their pricing is affordable. Their products has also proven to be trustworthy over the years.
As I received the goods from Dawn wing Couriers
Everything neatly packed inside
Front braided brake lines.
High performance brake fluid. It has a high boiling point.
Endless PB05 competition brake pads.
In terms of the squeal - that would be the Endless ME20 pads. ME20 is often used on hard core track cars, that are still driven on the road since they work from cold and are not abrasive. The down side is squeal at light pedal pressured.
The Endless PB05 is dead quiet on street, but can handle light track use with ease. It has slightly less heat range and friction than the ME20 compound though.
Last but not least - Powerbrake GT Series front brake upgrade kit (street/track) - GT1023122PB05
I can't wait to fit these. :joy::joy::joy:
This is the important notice that I received from Powerbrake:
"IMPORTANT - In the kit box, you will find the disc fitment and bed-in instructions. Please follow these to the letter. Correct fitment and bed-in can affect brake performance and product life by up to 20%. Please pay particular attention to the correct cleaning of the hubs before fitting the new discs. Failure to do this can lead to disc damage and brake judder!"
When you remove your old discs, your hubs will look something like this:
Please use a brass brush in a drill to clean the hubs. Before fitting the new discs, the hubs must be thoroughly cleaned and look like this:
I would highly recommend doing business with Leon at Powerbrake. Their service is great & effective. After EFT payment they did an overnight courier shipment. It was dispatched 16:30PM yesterday afternoon...This morning at 08:05AM I received my goods.
Rommies
Active member
Just a short DIY on the Powerbrake upgrade kit for 2012 Golf 6 GTi DSG (Right Hand Drive). This pictures/explanation below was for the driver side.
Sorry if I couldn't take pictures of everything and explain everything in detail but time was running out at 22:00 and I was really tired haha
Ok first of all take out your plastic caps with the "hooking tool" that VW provided. Should be in your boot at your spare wheel.
Loosen your wheel nuts. Remember...one of your wheel nuts is a lock nut...you can find the adapter in your boot at the spare wheel as well.
Jack up your car - I used the OEM jack provided. As it is easy to lift up the wheel.
This is how it looks like when your wheel is off - I also used another hydraulic jack. Rather safe than sorry.
I then went forth taking out the plastic caps on the Brake Caliper. One is top...the other one is bottom.
Then I proceeded to take of the steel spring - be careful not to damage your caliper when prying with the flat screw driver.
You will need a size 7 allen key/hex key to take out the allen/hex bolt to loosen the caliper.
After loosening the hex bolts....I used the flat screw driver to push/pry out the hex bolts, as it was a bit of a tight fit. (torqued at 22ft/lb)
Also remember to loosen your brake/ABS sensor. it sits on the left side behind your dust shield.
After a bit of wiggling...your brake caliper should come off. Be careful that your brake pads don't fall out and break. In my case the back side pad came out with the Caliper.
Then I realised it actually clips into the brake cylinder.
This was just for safety as I didn't want my caliper to hang or stretch/damage my brake lines.
You need 21mm socket to loosen the 2 bolts on the caliper-carrier. They are torqued at 147ft/lb. I didn't succeed with the normal ratchet...I then went forth and grabbed the power bar. It worked much easier.
This is how it looked after the caliper/caliper carrier were removed
Then you need a T30 to loosen the little bolt to get your disc off
After I removed the disc I tried cleaning everything with a mild-strong degreaser and a paint brush. I don't have a brass brush in a drill like Powerbrake recommends. But my hubs were pretty clean. So I not stressing too much about it.
I then disconnected the brake line on the caliper. Make sure you have something to catch the brake fluid. You don't want to get it on your car paint or on any other parts.
I then used the pliers to pull out the top clip of the brake line.
You can loosen now the brake line (once again..be careful not to mess on anything)
That is how the OEM brake line looks
Powerbrake braided duraline brake line
I used the pliers again to push in the braided brake line in the bracket. you need to push it in from an angle.
This is the new copper washers (gasket) and new steel clip...The braided brake line design is different to the OEM.
I then test fitted the caliper to make sure the new upgraded brake line isn't pulling to hard or touching anywhere it shouldn't.
After a bit more cleaning I proceeded to put everything back together.
You will also need to a partner to help you bleed the brakes. I did it the old fashioned way.
This is the end result
It takes about 500km for the bed-in process....you can speed up the bed-in process by doing medium braking from 100km/h to 0km/h....then the bed-in process can take about 50-80km.
Sorry if I missed some instruction. This is just a quick DIY Guide.
You can also follow this guy on youtube:
- Episode 48: 2011 VW GTI: Fixing a brake squeal
Front brake pads change
Back brake pads change
Cherz!
Sorry if I couldn't take pictures of everything and explain everything in detail but time was running out at 22:00 and I was really tired haha
Ok first of all take out your plastic caps with the "hooking tool" that VW provided. Should be in your boot at your spare wheel.
Loosen your wheel nuts. Remember...one of your wheel nuts is a lock nut...you can find the adapter in your boot at the spare wheel as well.
Jack up your car - I used the OEM jack provided. As it is easy to lift up the wheel.
This is how it looks like when your wheel is off - I also used another hydraulic jack. Rather safe than sorry.
I then went forth taking out the plastic caps on the Brake Caliper. One is top...the other one is bottom.
Then I proceeded to take of the steel spring - be careful not to damage your caliper when prying with the flat screw driver.
You will need a size 7 allen key/hex key to take out the allen/hex bolt to loosen the caliper.
After loosening the hex bolts....I used the flat screw driver to push/pry out the hex bolts, as it was a bit of a tight fit. (torqued at 22ft/lb)
Also remember to loosen your brake/ABS sensor. it sits on the left side behind your dust shield.
After a bit of wiggling...your brake caliper should come off. Be careful that your brake pads don't fall out and break. In my case the back side pad came out with the Caliper.
Then I realised it actually clips into the brake cylinder.
This was just for safety as I didn't want my caliper to hang or stretch/damage my brake lines.
You need 21mm socket to loosen the 2 bolts on the caliper-carrier. They are torqued at 147ft/lb. I didn't succeed with the normal ratchet...I then went forth and grabbed the power bar. It worked much easier.
This is how it looked after the caliper/caliper carrier were removed
Then you need a T30 to loosen the little bolt to get your disc off
After I removed the disc I tried cleaning everything with a mild-strong degreaser and a paint brush. I don't have a brass brush in a drill like Powerbrake recommends. But my hubs were pretty clean. So I not stressing too much about it.
I then disconnected the brake line on the caliper. Make sure you have something to catch the brake fluid. You don't want to get it on your car paint or on any other parts.
I then used the pliers to pull out the top clip of the brake line.
You can loosen now the brake line (once again..be careful not to mess on anything)
That is how the OEM brake line looks
Powerbrake braided duraline brake line
I used the pliers again to push in the braided brake line in the bracket. you need to push it in from an angle.
This is the new copper washers (gasket) and new steel clip...The braided brake line design is different to the OEM.
I then test fitted the caliper to make sure the new upgraded brake line isn't pulling to hard or touching anywhere it shouldn't.
After a bit more cleaning I proceeded to put everything back together.
You will also need to a partner to help you bleed the brakes. I did it the old fashioned way.
This is the end result
It takes about 500km for the bed-in process....you can speed up the bed-in process by doing medium braking from 100km/h to 0km/h....then the bed-in process can take about 50-80km.
Sorry if I missed some instruction. This is just a quick DIY Guide.
You can also follow this guy on youtube:
Front brake pads change
Back brake pads change
Cherz!
Rommies
Active member
Hey guys.
My new Endless Powerbrake PB05 Competition brake pads does not come with a brake wear sensor like the OEM Brake Pads. So obviously if you do not plug in the brake wear sensor you will have an error come up on your dash, that keeps telling you to check your brakes. Very annoying. So thanks to Leon from Powerbrake...he gave me this quick tip.
"To sort out the 'brake wear error' light on the dash, do the following:
•Cut the sensor plug from the pad leaving approximately 40mm of both wires behind the plug.
•Strip approximately 10mm of insulation from each wire and twist the ends together. Twist both wire together as well.
•Use a high quality electric tape to seal the open wires.
•Re-install the plug into it’s mating connector.
Your dash warning light will remain off, but it does mean you have to visually monitor pad wear in future."
I believe the pictures are self explanatory:
My new Endless Powerbrake PB05 Competition brake pads does not come with a brake wear sensor like the OEM Brake Pads. So obviously if you do not plug in the brake wear sensor you will have an error come up on your dash, that keeps telling you to check your brakes. Very annoying. So thanks to Leon from Powerbrake...he gave me this quick tip.
"To sort out the 'brake wear error' light on the dash, do the following:
•Cut the sensor plug from the pad leaving approximately 40mm of both wires behind the plug.
•Strip approximately 10mm of insulation from each wire and twist the ends together. Twist both wire together as well.
•Use a high quality electric tape to seal the open wires.
•Re-install the plug into it’s mating connector.
Your dash warning light will remain off, but it does mean you have to visually monitor pad wear in future."
I believe the pictures are self explanatory:
S
SP33DYV
Guest
:thumbsup:
But I still prefer my brakes on the e46 325i :fencelook:
Sent on the run from my iPhone using Tapatalk
But I still prefer my brakes on the e46 325i :fencelook:
Sent on the run from my iPhone using Tapatalk
