Vaughan said:
try see if you can spot all the plastic trim pieces that have fallen off
its the only real fun to be had in one...
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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
Car crash
- Thread starter Olorin
- Start date
try see if you can spot all the plastic trim pieces that have fallen off
its the only real fun to be had in one...
Yeah man, I'm missing it already. 2 weeks in a Yaris sedan will make me love my car so much more. Soooo much more. It's funny how you take things for granted some times, like for me, I was used to my car, used to drive, the feeling, everything. But after 2 weeks it's going to be like a completely new experience again. Its weird, but it's exciting.
Well the accident will be on record as in it will be on the history. I suppose there was no getting around that.
The guy told me that it wouldn't bring the value down since it was not a serious accident and no major work needed to be done. I mean, if a windscreen shatters and/or a front bumper is replaced with OEM parts, would that bring the value down ? It's all being repaired by a BMW approved dealership so it will be basically new parts.
Perhaps I'm being paranoid. I don't really expect to sell the car (simply not in the pipeline) so it's a moot point really but I thought I would let you guys know.
The guy told me that it wouldn't bring the value down since it was not a serious accident and no major work needed to be done. I mean, if a windscreen shatters and/or a front bumper is replaced with OEM parts, would that bring the value down ? It's all being repaired by a BMW approved dealership so it will be basically new parts.
Perhaps I'm being paranoid. I don't really expect to sell the car (simply not in the pipeline) so it's a moot point really but I thought I would let you guys know.
Just an update. Car is being sent to Forsdicks. The assessor told me that my tires (left rear had 2cm...and the right and 1 cm...) which is strange because when I bought the car last year (7-8 months ago) I was told they put on new rear tires.
So can I just have the fronts moved to the rear and vice-versa ? To prolong the life of the tires ? I assumed tires lasted 15-20k. I don't even drive that much. So I'm a little surprised.
So can I just have the fronts moved to the rear and vice-versa ? To prolong the life of the tires ? I assumed tires lasted 15-20k. I don't even drive that much. So I'm a little surprised.
Vaughan said:
The dealers told me that the tyres on my e90 should not be rotated. Because the little uneven wear affects handelling when you rotate. And it has to be said that the front and rear should wear at almost the same rate. I think it should only be on the powerful e90's that the rear should wear out faster. My tyres are 20,000km old, and about half way to being finished...
As far as I know, they should last well past 40,000km mark.
Sabretooth tiger
///Member
I was told RFT tires are good for 20 000km. We 3 friends all own E90's. Mine and my buddy's 323's got 18 000km. The 320d got 22 000km. mostly open road driving.
I was just thinking, if you rotate every 10-15000 km, then they should last a LONG time. I was thinking of rotating them for my next service which is due in the next 6000 km's but now I'm told I have just 1-2mm of tread left. That's nonsense. I'm going to phone SMG tomorrow morning to find out why there is such little tread. I took possession of the car with 78000 km's and the rep told me that new tires were put on. So now I'm on around 88k. I don't race the car either. So something is up here.
M
Mike1
Guest
All dealers are required to tell the customer to rotate tyres on all cars every 7500km.
Its a requirement of the salesman and as a customer when you sign the delivery note it is actually in bold just above where you sign.
Mike
Its a requirement of the salesman and as a customer when you sign the delivery note it is actually in bold just above where you sign.
Mike
Sabretooth tiger
///Member
+1, imagine rotating if you do have it. Will look purse funny having 225 at the rear and 255 in front.:spit:Sankekur said:
Sabretooth tiger said:
Strange, I have 20,000km on my RFT's and they still have lots of thread left. And I drive like a lunatic, and have done many insane launches....
A decent set of tyres (michelin for open road or Yokahama for short distance) should last more than 40,000-60,000 km.
It has to also be said that if you travel around in joburg on the highway, the tyres will wear out a little quicker because of the roadworks.
@vaughan: I also smell something fishy. 10,000km on a "new" set of tyres is just wrong.
Didn't get a chance to phone SMG, will have to do that on Monday. But one thing I'm definitely going to do is have my door handles color coded. An alpine white BMW with black handles is a big NO. My car is already at Forsdicks so they might as well just finish it properly. It will only cost R950 and the car will look MUCH better. Apparently their warranty on the paintwork is 6 years.
Got an update, car will be ready on Tuesday next week. The Yaris is not so bad. Been driving it the last few days. Something I found odd is that driving in high gears doesn't present a major strain on the engine at low speeds. Don't get me wrong, the car is extremely pup and has very little torque, but for some reason if I'm driving at a very low speed, third gear on the Yaris doesn't make the engine stress out as if it's about to stall. It's weird. On my BMW, with AC off, if I'm driving to work in the mornings, I find that 2nd gear is okay, but sometimes I find the engine still sounds a little stressed at very low speeds. Third gear is manageable at 20-30 km but it's really starting to huff and puff. The Yaris doesn't seem as stressed yet it only has 60 kw's.
I mean, guys, don't get me wrong, the Yaris is super slow, I just thought it was weird with the low speed high gear changes. The car is a 5 speed. Not sure if that has any impact. Also, just a question concerning oil changes. I've had my car for a while without changing oil. If I check the settings it still shows around 3/4 on the meter for oil but it's been%
I mean, guys, don't get me wrong, the Yaris is super slow, I just thought it was weird with the low speed high gear changes. The car is a 5 speed. Not sure if that has any impact. Also, just a question concerning oil changes. I've had my car for a while without changing oil. If I check the settings it still shows around 3/4 on the meter for oil but it's been%
Vaughan said:
Check the rpm out. You will find that the yaris is geared much closer than the beemer. The beemers 2nd gear would be much closer to the yariss 3 gear. That would be my first guesss.
To give an comparison, my cars 4th gear is very near to the 5th gear of my ex.ford fiesta diesel. Our cars are geared for the autobahn and feul consimption methinks.
Philip Foglar
///Member
Also the car is a lot lighter compared to a 3 Series. And you are also accustomed to a turbo charged diesel - not sure about the E90 320d, but I remember one of the minor problems with the E46 320d was that it had very little torque below 1500 - 2000 rpm. So at these very low revs the engine will seem to feel strained. Also most diesels especially when they do in fact have lots of available torque at very low revs easily suffer from torsional vibration and stresses which is very bad for the engine and drivetrain. I refer to this as "domkrag" - engine is cable of operating at these low revs but will cause damage to itself in doing so. This is also why there are dual mass flywheels and a dampened crank wheel on diesels - prevents excessive vibrations from being transmitted to the alternator, aircon compressor and other ancillary devices not to mention the occupants, NVH (noise, vibration and harshness).
Examples from my current and recent cars:
E90 330i - doesn't really like close to idle speed operation in certain instances (I think something to do with the way the valvetronic throttle works), but once on the throttle and slightly above idle pulls like a train!
Isuzu KB300LX (D-Max 3.0 TDI) - pulls really strong and consistently from idle. Literally pull off by just letting the clutch out and then applying throttle once the vehicle has started moving. But, in taller gears the drivetrain quickly tells you when it is not happy - fourth gear below 60km/h it almost sounds like the gearbox is rough! Engine is happiest between 2000 and 3000 rpm (3500 rpm in some cases).
Toyota Corolla 160i '99 model (1.6i) - naturally aspired engine and a light car with reasonably low gearing, would pull cleanly and consistently from tickover and I would also generally pull off by letting the clutch out and then feeding in the throttle.
Isuzu KB280DT (2.8 TD) - I would think similar turbo lag character as the E46 320d, had very little usable torque below 2000 rpm but then the then all of a sudden from 2200 rpm its maximum torque slowly rolled off as the revs climbed. So the engine was only usable between 2000 and 3000 rpm - between idle speed and 2000 rpm it would stutter and protest very easily. Like the 320d the torque curved showed that outside the effective range of the turbo the torque produced was much less than a similar capacity NA diesel.
Examples from my current and recent cars:
E90 330i - doesn't really like close to idle speed operation in certain instances (I think something to do with the way the valvetronic throttle works), but once on the throttle and slightly above idle pulls like a train!
Isuzu KB300LX (D-Max 3.0 TDI) - pulls really strong and consistently from idle. Literally pull off by just letting the clutch out and then applying throttle once the vehicle has started moving. But, in taller gears the drivetrain quickly tells you when it is not happy - fourth gear below 60km/h it almost sounds like the gearbox is rough! Engine is happiest between 2000 and 3000 rpm (3500 rpm in some cases).
Toyota Corolla 160i '99 model (1.6i) - naturally aspired engine and a light car with reasonably low gearing, would pull cleanly and consistently from tickover and I would also generally pull off by letting the clutch out and then feeding in the throttle.
Isuzu KB280DT (2.8 TD) - I would think similar turbo lag character as the E46 320d, had very little usable torque below 2000 rpm but then the then all of a sudden from 2200 rpm its maximum torque slowly rolled off as the revs climbed. So the engine was only usable between 2000 and 3000 rpm - between idle speed and 2000 rpm it would stutter and protest very easily. Like the 320d the torque curved showed that outside the effective range of the turbo the torque produced was much less than a similar capacity NA diesel.
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