330d_Mein Luxus-Rakete

[rodga]

True story man

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[sash]

eish, sorry martin. :thumbdo::thumbdo:

 

[Spannie]

Okay update time - I now need a new battery it seems. Drove the car the past two days with zero issues, cold start is much better and the smoke is also gone. The stability management dies briefly while driving and there are ABS, stability control and brake control errors along with the battery error. I took the car to my local Midas yesterday and they checked the battery - it drops into the 10's when placed under load so I think one of the cells is on its way out.

I'm busy looking for a decent replacement battery at a reasonable price.

 

[Nikhil]

Okay update time - I now need a new battery it seems. Drove the car the past two days with zero issues, cold start is much better and the smoke is also gone. The stability management dies briefly while driving and there are ABS, stability control and brake control errors along with the battery error. I took the car to my local Midas yesterday and they checked the battery - it drops into the 10's when placed under load so I think one of the cells is on its way out.

I'm busy looking for a decent replacement battery at a reasonable price.

Supaquick Kyalami, Speak to Nolen or Andrew and tell him you were referred by Nikhil with the E46 :coolShake:

 

[Spannie]

Supaquick Kyalami, Speak to Nolen or Andrew and tell him you were referred by Nikhil with the E46 :coolShake:

I'll phone them just now bud thanks!

 

[Arbee]

Heres some prices that the owner of my ex-330d received. He went with the OEM battery from Lyndhurst.

I have only just gotten a chance to get pricing for the battery issue I am having.
VARTA-H3 Silver 100Ah = R2440,85 | no stock available 3-4 days lead time.

Lyndhurst Auto | R2026.68

Battery Centre Randburg | R2275 for Raylite battery

Looks like OEM is the way I am going to go.


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[Spannie]

Heres some prices that the owner of my ex-330d received. He went with the OEM battery from Lyndhurst.

I have only just gotten a chance to get pricing for the battery issue I am having.
VARTA-H3 Silver 100Ah = R2440,85 | no stock available 3-4 days lead time.

Lyndhurst Auto | R2026.68

Battery Centre Randburg | R2275 for Raylite battery

Looks like OEM is the way I am going to go.


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Thanks once again bud :ty:

 

[rodga]

I would also go with a varta. Had one in my 6 that was drained about a year ago. One of those booster packs to charge it up again and it's still working fine today.

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[Spannie]

Update. I got a replacement Willard battery for a really good price, so I fitted it and I've registered the new battery.

I've been having this irritating intermittent issue where my cluster needles drop down (like it resets). I've cleaned all the wheel speed sensors and connectors and I've checked all the electrical connectors as well.

I checked the voltage on the on board computer and noticed that the car would freak out every time just as it experiences a voltage spike upwards of 16volts. Normally the voltage in the system is a steady 13.7 -14v, but it seems as though the alternator has an intermittent fault where it allows a voltage spike.

Any ideas?

---

Anyone know if the regulator on my car is removable or integral?

 

[KarshS]

Did you tighten the battery terminal?

My 130 did this but used to also switch traction and abs off at times. one of the terminals was loose.

 

[Spannie]

Nah I checked and re-checked everything, only thing left to check is the earth connections on the body. Terminals are nice and tight.

Forgot to mention that my DTC, ABS etc lights also come on when this happens.

 

[CraigsBMW]

Nah I checked and re-checked everything, only thing left to check is the earth connections on the body. Terminals are nice and tight.

Forgot to mention that my DTC, ABS etc lights also come on when this happens.

Hey Spannie.. Sorry to hear about all the issues dude!

I had the exact same issue on my E46 (DTC, ABS, dials, etc switch off for a second) after I removed the battery to clean the boot, but it was because I had not tightened the terminals tight enough... After I made sure they where super tight, issue went away.

 

[Ratslaaf]

Yeah, check all high current connections are securely tightened.

Next thing is the alternator. You can't get the regulator separate, unless you know of an auto electrician that can overhaul the alternator/regulator for you. But this is a last resort. If the error started after the battery was replaced, I'm pretty sure it's a connection issue.

 

[Spannie]

Okay I checked the earths in the engine bay, removed the alternator and checked the regulator brushes. They're still making good contact with the slip ring and have about 4mm life left.

I logged the voltage and it varies by up to 1volt, but mostly fluctuates by about 0.3v. The idle also changes in relation to the voltage fluctuations...

I have no idea what could be causing this. Maybe the junction box?

 

[Ratslaaf]

Those spikes are very short and random. You not likely to catch it with your meter. The last issue I had like this turned out to be the regulator hey.

But to confirm, did this start right after the battery change?

 

[Spannie]

This was with a refresh rate of 50ms, you can see the voltage drops and peaks and the engine tone/idle speed matches this graph exactly.
The problem occured a few times before the battery change (I got CC-ID 403 code on the OBC - check battery condition) and thus bought a new battery. But the problem seems to be getting worse.
It may be unrelated, but it tends to do this more when I have the car loaded in the rear/boot. I checked the wheel speed sensor cables and they're free. No pulling or pinching of any wires.

 

[Ratslaaf]

The spikes that I'm referring to are in the 15-18V range. The spikes are too fast to be seen with your data logger, the only way I could figure it out was by looking at the system voltage at the time of logged errors from the DSC.

The voltage sitting at the OBDPort isn't a very reliable supply as the whole internal dashboard supply runs with it as well.

Go to your error history (if you haven't cleared it) and check what the logged voltage is at the time of the errors. If it's over 15V, and you've confirmed all your connectors are good, then it's your regulator stuffing around.

 

[Spannie]

I checked the voltage on the OBC and every time it cuts the cluster and the needles drop ans the ABS/DTC/tyre monitoring errors pop up the last voltage I could see is usually 16v or 16.5v... So there is a definite spike.

Correct me if I'm wrong but the only way a voltage spike will occur is if the regulator is allowing the voltage to exceed the max? This would then confirm that it is the regulator. I knkw it is a high voltage spike that's happening, so if the only thing that can cause the spike is the regulator, then I owe you a bottle of alcohol.

 

[Ratslaaf]

Yeah, I agree with your logic :rollsmile:

 

[Spannie]

Okay the car is getting worse and the voltage is running higher and higher the longer I drive the car - it is now getting deep into the 16's and 17's in terms of the voltage :thumbdo:

I can get the regulator through an auto-elec for half the price BMW wants so I'll source one today.