Touran 2.0tdi DSG

sash

///Member
Since i have a thread over on VWClub, figured i might as well put it on here as well....

As some may know I needed a bigger daily/family car. I dont like lugging lots of things in the 5er, packing and unpacking, difficult to overload the 5er but i thinks it almost like sacrilege to do it...:rollsmile:

After lots of research and driving quite a few of these vehicles i found the following:

About a month ago i purchased a 2007 2.0 TDi Touran DSG. After lots of research and quite a few test drives as well as assistance from Morne i completed the transaction. Turbo has been replaced under recall and has no major issues since then. One of reasons i took this vehicle is the fact that it is a highline with leather, dual climate control, even has the dimming rear view mirror, heated side mirrors, front heated seats, 5 seater with spare wheel :wink:

Will upload some pics as soon as i finish the clean up process as this car needed some TLC in that department.

It also needs some TLC in terms of servicing as i will be doing shorter services and want to change the following for piece of mind( over time). Please let me know if i should consider other items as well.
-Oil (LM toptec 4100)
-Oil filter (Meyle or OEM)
-Fuel Filter (Meyle or OEM)
-Crankcase breather ( i think its called that)
-Gearbox flush
-Coolant Flush
-Thermostat check/replace
-Temperature sensor check
-Clean EGR
-Clean IFM
-Clean Intercooler and boost pipes

Known Issues :
-IFM is throwing an error code but apparently it is working and closing when shutting off motor
-Suspect boost leak due to oil residue on pipes
-There seems to be a minor oil leak at the rear of the engine which needs to be looked at.


sash said:
Finally got around to cleaning the van to where i am happy with it but was running out of light to get decent pictures.
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As part of my cleanup i went through my process of detailing which included
Pre soak with Valet Pro Snow foam
Two bucket wash using Chemical Guys Wash
Clayed using Shield Fine Clay bar and QD
Scholl Concepts S3 with LCC Orange pad on Shield DA
Menzerna FF4000 with LCC Green pad
Soft99 Fusso Coat Dark
DNA Luxury Wax

On the interior it was more time consuming but ended up
Removing all loose panels including the rear seats, proper vacuum through out
Washed all loose carpets
Cleaned and dried all visible stains
Cleaned door pads, dash and consoles
Cleaned door jambs and rubbers
Removed boot floor and spare and cleaned entire rear floor area
Cleaned Seats using AF Leather Cleaner
Treated all leather with AF Hide Conditioner
Treated all dash and plastics with either AF Dressle or interior detailer
Cleaned and treated all door rubbers with Smart Wax exterior dressing

Wheels were cleaned using Valet Pro Dragons Breath and various brushes but will be removed from the vehicle and cleaned properly ....soon
Arches were cleaned with Kleen Green and various brushes but will be done again when wheels are off

I wanted to take more pictures but with 2 kids i was pressed for time. will take more soon
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sash said:
Small update, but it felt like it was a massive task for myself....
First service, decided to do oil, oil filter, fuel filter, sump nut then found the boost leak so changed the seals
onto the pics

THe old oil filter, was a GUD filter , made in feb last year so not that old
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COmpared to New OEM Filter, notice the piece that is not on the GUD filter, i had to double check that i hadnt infact left it in the block...
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The fuel filter looks quite dirty, couldnt make out age, but replaced with OEM filter that i couldnt take a pic of cos my battery died
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THe fuel that came out of the filter housing..., i removed all the fuel in there as well as wiped the inside of the housing clean. Was surprised at the amount of dirty sitting in there, wasnt extremely dirty but shows how much of dirt actually is in our fuels or just collects over time.
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The air filter was also a GUD but i replaced with OEM
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Not too bad, but needed to be changed i think.
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Boost leak, (i know the pic is upside down) was curious as to why the pipe was not sitting all the way in.
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Hmm..., Make Sense....., silicon :mad:
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Took 6 days for VW to get the seal i required as the old one was covered in silicon but fitment was easy after a bit of cleaning.
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Since the bumper was off decided to do some cleaning up. The FOgs were looking tired so decided to tint them. Not a perfect job but it will do
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Then cleaned the plastics with brushes and treated with the appropriate treatment. 50/50 shot
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Decided to clean the front while the bumper was off
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Still waiting for some screws, also was left with the car in limp mode which i now figured out is because the other end of the boost pipe is not sitting lekker. Will be sorting that out as well cleaning the EGR and IFM soon.
 

sash

///Member
Thanks guys,

Peter, actually it is thanks to guys like you, warren and few others that push us to go DIY. Its much more fulfilling.

Plus you showed me how easy it was to do the oil service....
 

sash

///Member
Thanks guys, Ah yes i should Rob

Small update.., I like a little bass in the boot and my wife has gotten so used to having better than stock sound it was evitable, but I am trying to DIY with the help of Spiro...

My post from SnS forum
I have been planning to do an install in my VW Touran since i purchased it.., which is about a month now.., lol

The standard sound is okish, but lacks the lower frequencies and at higher volumes doesnt sound good, the highs are somewhat distorted and bass..,. well there isnt any...

The plan was to just add a sub, but since the reason i bought such a vehicle is for space, it became increasingly difficult to explain to the SO the need for a spacious vehicle and then just take away space with amps and subwoofer boxes.

So the hunt started.... I ended purchasing the following considering i didnt want to blow the budget.
Hertz DSK165 splits
Lanzar slim 10" sub
Reference Audio Cabling Kit
Reference Audio Hi Lo convertor with remote sensing
Legacy Gold 6ch

I also decided that i wanted to do a sealed fiberglass enclosure in the spare wheel( not spare wheel well). According to the sub specs it needs 0.46 cu ft sealed and my calculations come to approx 0.48 cu ft taking into consideration the volume the sub would take.

Bought myself a fibreglass kit from AMT composites and decided to tackle the sub enclosure this weekend.... and failed. I have some pics which i will upload, but its pointless since i failed miserably.

I masked out the wheel completely and then used foil to ensure nothing gets through. I also sprayed a bit of spray and cook to assist with removing the mould later on.

I mixed 250 ml resin and hardener at a ratio of 2% first. this gave me about 20 min to apply. I cut up the fibreglass into triangles or pie shapes so that i could get the shape of a circle and cover the base( which is behind the face of the actual rim).

First problem was that while trying to spread the resin over the fibreglass i found that the brush i was using seemed to pick up the fibreglass every time i tried to push it into the complex shape. I tried to put excess resin onto the foil and then press the fibreglass by hand and finish by spreading more resin on top which seemed to be better but not 100%.

This all seemed time consuming and by the time i had done the base, the resin started to turn into gel..., I tried to get the first piece of resin to stick on the side of the enclosure( outer edge of wheel) and it refused to stick, but that might have been due to the resin starting to gel up. i tried to spread what resin was left onthe fibreglass i had already placed and it started to lift worse than before.

I then mixed another batch, this time tried to put a bit sheet of fibreglass in and mixed 500ml resin with just over 1% hardener. My plan was to get the dry fibreglass into the base and pour the resin in then spread it around so it can take the shape, but again it didnt stick to sides.....

I eventually gave up and threw the whole thing away and removed the masking off the wheel....

I dont think the process is rocket science, but the shape i am trying to achieve might be the cause of my headaches... any information or suggestions in this regard will be greatly appreciated.

If all else fails i can go with option no 2,which is remove the entire boot floor in the touran. Not sure what the designers were going for, but there is compartments on either side of the spare as well as a long one that spans the width of the second row of seats(mine is the 5 seater option).

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By removing the boot floor and building my own floor to the exact height, i have a height of 12cm across the entire floor, except for the spare(which will sit flush) and towards the second row of seats which reduces to about 8cm. I will still have to fibreglass alomst the entire floor but it should be easier than the spare wheel.

Here one can see the height and depth of the rear boot floor
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I posted this about a week back, but noticed it never actually posted.... here a bit of an update.
Here you can see the space in the boot after removing the plastic trim around the spare. For some reason VW decided to use a full size spare but the height difference between the body and the spare wheel height is about 13cm, which is made up by the plastics i mentioned earlier. I contemplated going with a biscuit spare, but since this is meant to be a family car i want the full size spare.


My first attempt at failing with Fibreglass..., my mixture had too much hardener and learning how to use fibreglass on the go didnt work either.... chucked the entire thing out.


The plan for the setup is to have the amp just behind the second of seats and the sub to go into the spare wheel. The spare normally fits face up, but i will have to flip it over and secure to make the install work.


Reason for putting the amp where it is, is due to the storage lid that exists on the OEM boot floor. Currently plan allows the the lid to open and close with some storage on either side of the amp.


With the flap closed the plan is that nothing will be visible. I aim to use the OEM boot floor


Thats all for now. hope to actually start with the install as the planning and amp and sub is taking the longest time.
 

sash

///Member
Haha, thanks Gav

Ya Dewald.., its for those speedbumps..., I am looking into options..., but it has to remain practical....need to control myself as the PCD on this vehicle is the same as audi and golfs. The audis have a higher offset in stock form but the golfs have slightly lower which means it will work nicely for me.

I have one or two mechanical issues i want to sort out for my sanity then i will see where my wallet leads me... lol
 

sash

///Member
Made some progress with the sound install, things are really slow due to work and family commitments....

Tried to do the mould for the spare wheel sub enclosure after failing the first time. Learnt some lessons, did more reading...lets see how this progresses.

Prepped the wheel again with masking tape and a layer of foil, this time tried to overlap as much as possible as i figured thats where i failed previously. The first layer of FG was going on the base, but decided to put a bigger piece and spread the resin quickly as opposed to working with small pieces.
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fast forward about 30 min and i completed the base as well as the sides with two layers. I cut longer strips on the sides so that it doesnt fall off like previously.
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after letting it dry completely i added another layer of FG, in some places 2 more layers and since the excess resin would settle on the base, the base is considerably thicker.
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Let that dry and popped it out of the wheel, it came easily but the foil did get stuck in some areas, but no train smash.
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Then had to start working on the face plate. I started with a basic disc that would fit the mould
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Bevelled the edge to allow it to sit inside the rim and meet the edge of the rim
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Cut out the inner ring which is the same size as the outer edge of the sub as i want the sub recessed.
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The underside
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Then cut out a second ring that is screwed to the plate and eventually the sub will mount to
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Here you can see the top of the plate with the recessed mounting point for the sub
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Test fit
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Everything just placed in the enclosure
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There was quite a bit of excess to trim
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Then spent some time carpeting the amp rack
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I then trimmed the edges of the enclosure
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I then fibreglassed the faceplate to the enclosure by adding a layer of fg from the top of the enclosure as well as from the sides and ensured both layers fused properly. I tried my best to get out air bubbles, due to the fact that the enclosure and the faceplate were not 100% flush and had some gaps, some couldnt be removed.
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Let that dry and then trimmed the edges once more. It dried very solid and in order to trim I had all my weight on it and it is strong.
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Put in some fibre fill as i measured approx 14.5 to 15 litre excluding the speaker and the recommended sealed small enclosure for the sub is 14.5litres
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Soldered and insulated the terminal
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All screwed together
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Amp in its place under the OEM boot floor, but yet to be mounted as i would ensure i have enough space for the wiring first.
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And the sub in the spare wheel m under the OEM floor. I will carpet the box, but needed to check clearance, and as i expected, i need to fabricate a new floor....:thumbdo:
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Think that took me the better part of 3 weekends whenever i could slip away from the family long enough....:roflol:
 

sash

///Member
Thanks guys, my first attempt at an install. Turning out to be more complicated than i thought but learning so much
 
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