Run in period

Quick///M

Well-known member
mkot9 said:
The only problem I have experienced when doing this , is I think my petrol tank is leaking. I'm only getting around 180km on a tank and its a bit expensive! :roflol:

Play it safe the last thing you want is the headache of taking your car to the dealer to sort out any issues that may arise if you did not follow the instructions for the run in period
 

akash

Well-known member
Before the cars leave the factory they are run on the dyno to ensure that the engine is running at peak peformance threw out the rev range.
 

Fordkoppie

///Member
To run it in, use high load and low revs ( < 4000rpm) till 2000km and thereafter you can start hammering it.

If you rev it high when still tight (and it will be) it generates a lot of heat locally on the skirts of the pistons causing it to expand more than it should.

It then scuffs = make contact with the sleeve. If you are really tuned finely into how the car should sound, you will hear that it then has a slight knock when cold.

Now you will not notice this easily and it will not break down quickly, but it will always be a little down on power and it will for argument's sake only last 200k where it could have gone to 300k.

I don't understand the mentality of hammering it immediately. What on earth could be bad about taking it easy the first 2000km?

And as I said - use high load. That means lots of flat out acceleration, but don't rev beyond 4000 rpm.
 

Philip Foglar

///Member
This is why the gentle approach is generally safer - the hard running in process has lots of merit and I know that the bike guys swear by it, but it has to be done correctly! It's not just a case of driving the nuts off the thing - you are likely to just damage the new components. The high loads at low revs as far as I understand is very good to ensure that the rings form a good seal from the start. But high revs on a still new and tight engine is just looking for trouble!!!
 
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