Radiator go boom! Advice on consequences...

528iE39

New member
Greetings all, this is my first post here - I have enjoyed reading the forum posts so far. I hope somebody can help to shed some light on my E39 woes. I have had a '99 528i for the past 2 years. I love the car dearly, but have had annoying cooling system issues ever since I got it (I know this is to be expected, but read on). I got the car with 148k km's on the clock, and have taken it up to about 175k in the time I have owned it.

To cut a long story short(er), I've had "Check coolant alarms" for most of the time I've had the car. It went back to the dealership under warranty first time around, and apparently the radiator for the internal heating system was replaced. Later, the radiator cap + thermostat were replaced (follow-up on a previous, similar repair for the last owner). Problem returned later and I raised it with my indie when it went in for a service - problem temporarilly solved again. Next service, same thing (started getting alarms after a long, brisk ride in the countryside on a very hot day).

The actual temperature on the car has generally been stable (spiked once prior to second fix at dealer), until recently, when it would start heading towards the red at traffic lights etc. Temp would go down quickly once on the move again.

This weekend, had to run some errands and hit some slow traffic - temp started going to the red (3/4 to just on red). Hit the side roads to get moving and temp went down again. Drove slowly to find a particular location, temp when to red and got "Check coolant temperature" or similar alarm. Stopped for a while and then moved on, hoping to keep moving until I could find a safer spot to stop for some time.

Within about 2 minutes, I hit some slow traffic in a location where I couldn't pull over. Temp went right into the red and got the "Check coolant temp" alarm again. After about 45 seconds I could pull over into a parking lot - whilst driving to an open bay the worst happened - there was a muffled pop and steam came billowing up from under the bonnet.

Drove about 5m after the "poof" and stopped immediately. Investigation showed coolant pissing everywhere + red fluid which looked like ATF. Also signs of ATF having leaked from the power steering reservoir and surrounds, but also dripping from the right front of the car. Got towed to the indie and was able to start the car + quickly drive it into the workshop fine. I expect to have to replace the entire cooling system - will probably request this even if the current system can be repaired.

My concern is around the cylinder head / block. I don't know too much mechanically, but I do know that an overheat can be very bad news for an E39. Based on my description above, is it possible that the damage could be much worse than the radiator? Indie mentioned R4,000 to R5,000 if the head needs to be done. I still owe R30k on this car and would like to keep it running, but don't want to waste my money... I also can't afford for this to drag on too long, as I only have one car and am having to drive a rental for the next couple of days. Advice?
 
J

Jandre

Guest
Do the cooling system first, and then take it from there. I had similar overheating issue on my e36.

I had to do the head and ended up doing the whole motor, but then again, my car was using oil prior to the overheat.

You might just be able to get a way with a cooling system change, maybe a head job.
 

StK

New member
Sounds like you need the waterpump checked...mine had plastic impellars which dissintergrated causing similar problems to what you're having...then replace the rad cap and do a bleed.Hopefully will cure your problem :thumbsup:
 

rick540

///Member
Because you were driving slowly and the temp just only got into the red, you will probably be lucky and will have no damage. (It's blasting down the highway and not noticing or ignoring the overheat that kills engines)

Three things to check

1) The viscous fan coupling is probably not working

2) The water pump like has been mentioned

3) The electric fan (Even if the viscous fan is faulty, this backup should kick in before the red zone)
 

528iE39

New member
Thanks to all for the quick advice - starting to feel a bit less stressed about the whole event. Will ask indie to check water pump, viscous fan coupling, rad cap and electric fan. Some online research shows that a block test will reveal engine issues. Is this a standard procedure and how trustworthy is it?
 

clutchplate

///Member
is it auto or manual ? if you saw coolant AND red fluid make sure your water to gearbox fluid cooler didn't blow up ... its underneath the alternator and powersteering pump...

eish.. hope it comes right bro.. let us know
 

Clownshoe

Active member
I had exactly the same thing happen on my E36.

Firstly the explosion in a result not a cause. As mentioned the cause could be a) viscous coupling b)auxillary fan c) impellar d) clogged radiator . My money is on auxillary fan (thermostat or fan itself). So after all if fixed you could still have an overheating issue.

Result exploding that? If the radiator went, expect a new/ reconditioned radiator. Or whatever went. Whare was the fluid pissing out?

Secondary damage to the head. Pressure can blow gaskets, heat can can crack /warp head. Once thatever exploded is fixed they will have to do a pressure test on the cooling system. This will show up cracked head and or gasket. This will tell you the differnce between a quick fix and OMG!!

Hope you come right!! I take it your in the US?
 

528iE39

New member
More sound advice - thanks again. Have asked mech to check water pump/impellors, viscous coupling, radiator cap, electric/aux fan, gearbox coolant connection and thermostat. Clutchplate - mine is an auto (have also asked mech to assess trans fluid whilst it's in). Clownshoe - I'm in Cape Town. Will post an update once I have some news, one way or the other...
 

Clownshoe

Active member
528iE39 said:
More sound advice - thanks again. Have asked mech to check water pump/impellors, viscous coupling, radiator cap, electric/aux fan, gearbox coolant connection and thermostat. Clutchplate - mine is an auto (have also asked mech to assess trans fluid whilst it's in). Clownshoe - I'm in Cape Town. Will post an update once I have some news, one way or the other...

Duh!! Sorry only heard the word Indie used on US forums:)
 

528iE39

New member
Update! After a couple of days of nail biting and not much word from the mechanic, received news today - car is ready for collection... Unfortunately, all is not roses in the land of E39 - they did a block test yesterday which indicated cylinder head troubles. I don't have the entire story yet, but apparently something has been done so that the car be driven for now, until they can get some goodies together to attend to the cylinder head. For now, I put out some feelers for a refurb or new cylinder head. Guess I will just have to take out my frustrations on my R300 per-day rental Polo :banghead: . Not entirely sure what to make of all of this, will post more once I have the details.
 

zaleonardz

Well-known member
Beat that Polo out of principle....

Good Luck man, been following this thread, but it sounds as if you have recieved awesome advice.

WOuld be cool to know if they actually opened the motor, which I doubt judging from your explanation, but perhaps its just head gasket, which is painful, but not as painful as a new head.

If the head is blown, go get one from a yard that looks in good condition, and send that off to engineering, dont bother with trying to repair/skim/refit your old head, its pointless.

I wish you again good luck, and keep us updated :)
 

528iE39

New member
Update 2 - fetched The Beast yesterday, R2000-ish to get her back on the road so. Radiator reservoir bottle replaced and minor service performed. Mechanic's conclusion is that the cylinder head is almost certainly cracked - for now, some manner of temporary repair solution has been applied (engine weld?) and radiator flushed. Apparently, the water pump and remaining cooling components are fine. Is it possible that the head was cracked all along, which led to my woes? There was always air getting in the cooling system, not sure if this means anything. Also, no matter how carefully I try to drive, my fuel consumption is always pegged at about 14.2l/100km, which seems high, although the bulk of my driving is urban.

I have been able to track down a refurbished cylinder head for R5000 - apparently skimmed with new guides and seals, but not valves. I need to do some research to figure out if this is worth pursuing, or if it will be more economical to try and salvage my car's head. Thoughts?

Friday at last and mobile again, so it's not all bad news!
 

P1000

///Member
Not sure if those heads can be skimmed at all. I know it is not advised for the M57 diesel engines (Source: TIS)
 

528iE39

New member
Update 3 - didn't get to drive my 528i yesterday, since wifey brought her home whilst I took the rental back to work - I was worried about sitting in traffic after the previous drama... I did, however, have the pleasure of doing my daily commute in E39 comfort again today. It did take a few minutes before I stopped trying to find a non-existent clutch pedal. I'm pleased to report that there were no issues at all, temp gauge now takes longer to get to 12 o'clock and, once there, remains quite firmly pegged. The engine is as silky smooth as ever, if not more so, and I did take the liberty of gently booting it once or twice. I'm still not sure if I should snag the refurbed head and get it fitted - this seems to be an exercise which ends with varying degrees of success. Hoping to speak to spanner man next week for a recommendation and will keep you lot posted.
 

Clownshoe

Active member
Find out exactly what they did with the head.

sounds like it always had a gasket problem if its cooling fine now... air in the system is almost def a head or gasket problem. If they changed the gasket and its fine now then your cooling issues are solved.:thumb:

I had a head stitch on the 318is and its still 100% 100000km on.
 

Bossman

Member
528iE39 said:
Greetings all, this is my first post here - I have enjoyed reading the forum posts so far. I hope somebody can help to shed some light on my E39 woes. I have had a '99 528i for the past 2 years. I love the car dearly, but have had annoying cooling system issues ever since I got it (I know this is to be expected, but read on). I got the car with 148k km's on the clock, and have taken it up to about 175k in the time I have owned it.

To cut a long story short(er), I've had "Check coolant alarms" for most of the time I've had the car. It went back to the dealership under warranty first time around, and apparently the radiator for the internal heating system was replaced. Later, the radiator cap + thermostat were replaced (follow-up on a previous, similar repair for the last owner). Problem returned later and I raised it with my indie when it went in for a service - problem temporarilly solved again. Next service, same thing (started getting alarms after a long, brisk ride in the countryside on a very hot day).

The actual temperature on the car has generally been stable (spiked once prior to second fix at dealer), until recently, when it would start heading towards the red at traffic lights etc. Temp would go down quickly once on the move again.

This weekend, had to run some errands and hit some slow traffic - temp started going to the red (3/4 to just on red). Hit the side roads to get moving and temp went down again. Drove slowly to find a particular location, temp when to red and got "Check coolant temperature" or similar alarm. Stopped for a while and then moved on, hoping to keep moving until I could find a safer spot to stop for some time.

Within about 2 minutes, I hit some slow traffic in a location where I couldn't pull over. Temp went right into the red and got the "Check coolant temp" alarm again. After about 45 seconds I could pull over into a parking lot - whilst driving to an open bay the worst happened - there was a muffled pop and steam came billowing up from under the bonnet.

Drove about 5m after the "poof" and stopped immediately. Investigation showed coolant pissing everywhere + red fluid which looked like ATF. Also signs of ATF having leaked from the power steering reservoir and surrounds, but also dripping from the right front of the car. Got towed to the indie and was able to start the car + quickly drive it into the workshop fine. I expect to have to replace the entire cooling system - will probably request this even if the current system can be repaired.

My concern is around the cylinder head / block. I don't know too much mechanically, but I do know that an overheat can be very bad news for an E39. Based on my description above, is it possible that the damage could be much worse than the radiator? Indie mentioned R4,000 to R5,000 if the head needs to be done. I still owe R30k on this car and would like to keep it running, but don't want to waste my money... I also can't afford for this to drag on too long, as I only have one car and am having to drive a rental for the next couple of days. Advice?

As allready mentioned, make sure the water pump is actually pumping, on that model year your pump impellers could still be plastic, also with the other checks take the radiator for a pressure and leak test and a good flush.
hope it helps, I am driving BMW number 7 with E39 number 3 , 530d now, so I now most of their little niggles.
 

528iE39

New member
Update 4 - sat in fairly heavy traffic on the way home today, temp needle didn't go beyond halfway. Fuel consumption has also improved; dropped from a steady +14L/100km previously to something between 12 and 13 now. This might be on account of the fact that I am driving a little more carefully, until my confidence in the car is restored...

Clownshoe - it seems some sort of temporary fix was applied; I gather that this is some kind of substance which was put into the engine which plugs the leaks for now. Magic weld or something along those lines; I'll ask the mechanic as soon as I've had a chance to chat with him some more. It sounds suspect, but he assures me he has a couple of other Bimmers in service with this same fix applied. I get the impression that what was done to my car something along the lines of what is described here: http://www.ehow.com/how_2002031_use-block-sealer.html
Work commitments have unfortunately prevented me from getting more details, but I do want to speak to him about whether it is worth snagging the replacement head whilst it is still available.

Bossman - thanks for your input, that's an impressive string of BMW ownership! I've been keeping my eyes open for another E39 for some time - I spotted a beaut of a 530D which I was on the brink of grabbing, but somebody beat me to it (2003 530D sport, <100k km's for R125k) - good ones are becoming increasingly hard to find. Spanner man did apparently check the water pump and it was fine. I think that once I've had the final work done on the head, whatever that turns out to be, I will ask for the water pump to be replaced anyway, since it seems to be such a common source of problems.

Thanks again all for your input - I'm a total noob when it comes to things mechanical. I did note in the past that, when squeezing the big pipes around the radiator, there did appear to be a lot of air in the system (squishy bubbling noises). I also tried to do the recommended bleeding procedure once, and it literally never got a point where only liquid came out of the system. Once my ride has cooled down a a little, I will repeat the pipe squeezing exercise and see if I note any difference.
 
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