R56 Turbo failure?

[petermoffat]

My '08 Cooper S did its turbo last week..

I drive enthusiastically, but I don't feel like I ever abuse it, and (as a diesel TD owner as well) I let the turbo cool down religiously before switching off.

Has anyone had this happen? I've never heard of them going before? Also, why would torque steer be virtually zero with the new one?

Fortunately the car was still under motorplan (had it extended by a year when I bought it), so I got a free turbo, but I don't want to spend R20k on a turbo every 68 000kms if I can help it!

Any opinions?

 

[moranor@axis]

start planning for the big turbo upgrade :rollsmile:

 

[petermoffat]

Does that mean this happens regularly?

What's the big turbo upgrade?

 

[Dmonic1]

My cuz has the Peugeot 207Gti... same motor as Mini cooper, that car blew its turbo a few times and now its at PSA sue to burnt Rings.... seems to be quite a weak motor... :yuck:

 

[moranor@axis]

i dont know minis well... but there must be aftermarket alternatives with a bigger turbo :rollsmile: if you plan now you will be able to upgrade later if the turbo goes later not just put the same crap back....

 

[Mike1]

Hi there

It all depends on your car, its history and what recalls have been done on it.

Generally speaking the 2008 model is very reliable and the turbo's on these cars not only work hard but are very strong.

There was a Heatshield recall done on 2007 and early 2008 Cooper S motors, this I know cured the early turbo problems from when the R56 was launched - The same revision was never pulled through on the Peugeot Motors AFAIK.

Under Motorplan it should actually list it as done on your car, if not then there is your answer. :thumbs:

If it has had the campaign (BMW's name for a recall without causing attention) then it may just be a bad turbo.

With regards to the steering and lack of torque steer in the latest models, this is true. Mid 2011 MINI revised the range upping the power on the motors and updating the interiors, sound systems and DSC systems as well as adding Vanos to the Motor.

Included in this revision was a software update to the steering system on the car, being electronic it is easily changeable and the new software is designed to reduce torque steer and it does it exceptionally well. It also included updates to the steering weight, making the wheels easier to turn when parking but tighter at high speed.

These cars, mostly from 2008 to 2009 are very good and besides small issues they are perfect.

Did you get the dealer to check the Chain Tensioner at the same time? This is also a common problem and can lead to engine damage and entire engine replacement.

Keep it MINI!

Mike

 

[Mike1]

i dont know minis well... but there must be aftermarket alternatives with a bigger turbo :rollsmile: if you plan now you will be able to upgrade later if the turbo goes later not just put the same crap back....

The standard turbo is, if I remember correctly a normal Twin Scroll Garrett Turbo. :thumbs:

So upgrades shouldnt be a problem.

 

[Quartermile300]

Blown Turbos like its my job,,,Part of the game hahaha :thumbs:

 

[BlueBeastie]

One shouldn't have to idle the car either. From my understanding the car has a turbo cooling system that kicks in when the car is switched off.

 

[Mike1]

One shouldn't have to idle the car either. From my understanding the car has a turbo cooling system that kicks in when the car is switched off.

:yuck:

You are correct, yes there is a auxilary oil pump which does feed cool oil to the turbo, the issue is that there is no pressure, so it pumps cool oil in and then it sits.

The next time you go for a spirited run at night, like I used to over Contermanskloof here in Cape Town. You drive that hard and you pull over and open the bonnet. The entire turbo housing, sometimes even the heatshield goes blood red and glows through the bonnet scoop.

I usually to do a 4km cool down, get home and then idle the car outside for around 20 minutes before that turbo cooled down to the point where the metal was back to normal.

No auxiliary pump can cool a turbo down when it is that hot.

Switching off a turbo car when driven hard, or not giving a cool down period causes major damage due to Heatsoak. With no moving oil through the turbo the temperatures can reach up to and over 400 degree's Celsius inside the turbo. No oil, particularly not the standard Hydro-Cracked oil the dealer uses can withstand those temps so the oil inside the turbo breaks down and solidifies damaging the turbo on startup the next day.

This is my biggest concern about the new turbo motors BMW is selling, people do not know how to drive these cars or how to make sure these turbo's stay healthy.

Mike

 

[petermoffat]

One shouldn't have to idle the car either. From my understanding the car has a turbo cooling system that kicks in when the car is switched off.

:yuck:

You are correct, yes there is a auxilary oil pump which does feed cool oil to the turbo, the issue is that there is no pressure, so it pumps cool oil in and then it sits.

The next time you go for a spirited run at night, like I used to over Contermanskloof here in Cape Town. You drive that hard and you pull over and open the bonnet. The entire turbo housing, sometimes even the heatshield goes blood red and glows through the bonnet scoop.

I usually to do a 4km cool down, get home and then idle the car outside for around 20 minutes before that turbo cooled down to the point where the metal was back to normal.

No auxiliary pump can cool a turbo down when it is that hot.

Switching off a turbo car when driven hard, or not giving a cool down period causes major damage due to Heatsoak. With no moving oil through the turbo the temperatures can reach up to and over 400 degree's Celsius inside the turbo. No oil, particularly not the standard Hydro-Cracked oil the dealer uses can withstand those temps so the oil inside the turbo breaks down and solidifies damaging the turbo on startup the next day.

This is my biggest concern about the new turbo motors BMW is selling, people do not know how to drive these cars or how to make sure these turbo's stay healthy.

Mike

Like I said, I don't drive the car that hard for extended periods (I certainly can't imagine I ever got the turbo glowing!), and I let it cool off for a minute or two after I've given it a little bit, as well as taking it easy the last few km's before I reach my destination.

My biggest concern is the 30 000km service intervals. What is that oil like after 25000km? Surely it can't be good-as-new? I'm 4000km from my next service, and will change oil every 15k once plan is done.

How do I know which campaigns have been done? They did the latest one now, and the cam belt was around the middle of last year after the car started that death rattle and idling erratically. Was assured no further damage was done..:flyfun:

 

[Mike1]

One shouldn't have to idle the car either. From my understanding the car has a turbo cooling system that kicks in when the car is switched off.

:yuck:

You are correct, yes there is a auxilary oil pump which does feed cool oil to the turbo, the issue is that there is no pressure, so it pumps cool oil in and then it sits.

The next time you go for a spirited run at night, like I used to over Contermanskloof here in Cape Town. You drive that hard and you pull over and open the bonnet. The entire turbo housing, sometimes even the heatshield goes blood red and glows through the bonnet scoop.

I usually to do a 4km cool down, get home and then idle the car outside for around 20 minutes before that turbo cooled down to the point where the metal was back to normal.

No auxiliary pump can cool a turbo down when it is that hot.

Switching off a turbo car when driven hard, or not giving a cool down period causes major damage due to Heatsoak. With no moving oil through the turbo the temperatures can reach up to and over 400 degree's Celsius inside the turbo. No oil, particularly not the standard Hydro-Cracked oil the dealer uses can withstand those temps so the oil inside the turbo breaks down and solidifies damaging the turbo on startup the next day.

This is my biggest concern about the new turbo motors BMW is selling, people do not know how to drive these cars or how to make sure these turbo's stay healthy.

Mike

Like I said, I don't drive the car that hard for extended periods (I certainly can't imagine I ever got the turbo glowing!), and I let it cool off for a minute or two after I've given it a little bit, as well as taking it easy the last few km's before I reach my destination.

My biggest concern is the 30 000km service intervals. What is that oil like after 25000km? Surely it can't be good-as-new? I'm 4000km from my next service, and will change oil every 15k once plan is done.

How do I know which campaigns have been done? They did the latest one now, and the cam belt was around the middle of last year after the car started that death rattle and idling erratically. Was assured no further damage was done..:flyfun:

You will actually find that turbo's do not mind being driven hard.

A spirited run will get the turbo glowing quick quick, but I am not accusing you of damaging the turbo etc. You certainly do the correct procedure ie cool down and idle. Even my Smart with its puny snail gets this treatment.

To check the campaigns go to your service department, or call them and give them the key to scan or the last 8 digits of your VIN (0TT34027 for example) and they will then load that into Motorplan CIA, the service software BMW uses.

Your full details etc should all come up, the cars full service and comment history will come up and then under campaigns it should say turbo heatshield.

Here is a screen shot of what the system looks like:

If it has not been done already, insist they do it. If it has then probably just a bad turbo.

With regards to service intervals, the 30 000km interval requires and oil with a LL04 specification.

These are hydro-cracked oils designed specifically for these motors and for high mileage. Some even have approvals for up to 40 000km. There is no harm in changing the oil at 15 000km but just keep in mind that the oil is nowhere near its deathbed at that point and you will be changing good oil.

The knowledge in the oil industry trebles yearly, what we know about lubricants in 1999 compared to what we know now are two very different things.

These oils are mineral bases with specific synthetic additives added, their role is to last 30 000km and they do.

Mike

 

[BlueBeastie]

I must say its very disconcerting not know exactly when to take the car in for a service. In the past its always been a year or xxx amount of km's. Sunday I will have my car for a year with 14000km and the OBC says i still have another 14000km to go.

Not used to this...

 

[Mike1]

Your salesperson should have explained the servicing to you at delivery.

Generally all MINI/BMW products need to be serviced at a maximum of 30 000km or Two years. Whichever comes first.

The reason for this is because your car works on a system which monitors your driving style. At startup you get a display of km/time till the next service.

Go rag the hell out of your car, switch it off and switch it on again and you will see you have lost around 3000km till the next service. :rollsmile:

The car is also capable of detecting when fluids need changing, so if your car is 10 000km due for a service and the car detects you have buggered the brake fluid it will bring up an inspection warning.

If you drive the car like a maniac your services will be closer together, if you drive like a normal person then 30 000km/Two years max.

We had a car on our floor, a Clubman S which had been standing for a year as nobody wanted it. I sold the car, jumped it and as I pulled away it insisted on a FULL INSPECTION. :rollsmile:

Its the first time our service department had done a service on a car with 12km on the clock. Thats plugs, filters, oil the works. The car had been standing for so long. :biglol:

Mike

 

[petermoffat]

Mike, I do understand how the condition based servicing works, this is not my first BMW

 

[Mike1]

Mike, I do understand how the condition based servicing works, this is not my first BMW

I was referring to BlueBeastie. :rollsmile:

 

[BlueBeastie]

Great so I drive normally then *sigh* I'm boring lol

Thanks for the explanation.