Over heating

[JayDrft]

Bruce,

Sounds lik ea gremlin...My advice - find all your earth cable, ensure they are clean and are not corroded, and while you at it - make sure they are tight.

Check once again if oil is mixing with water in the engine or radiator.

I hate to say it, but it may be a crack in the head....a quick way to check, diconnect the coil wire - remove one plug at a time, and see what comes out the head when cranked. You may find fuel, if you have a spark issue, or you may find water - if you have a cracked head.

Have you done a compression test - compression testers are available at midas for about R200 max, and that will indicate if you have a pressure loss somewhere....that will indicate if you need to pull the head, or chase fuel or spark issues. The reason I mentioned a cracked head, if water leaks from your head, into the combustion chamber, the water will slowly but sure keep killing the ignition that happens on the plugs...It is essential to do a comp. test, and try avoid starting the motor until you are sure that you not getting water in the cylinder, as this will cause a lot of ball ache if you are not sure whats happening in there.

Another silly but rational question - does the car have fuel in it...? Past experience says, always, and I mean Always make sure that you have fuel in the tank....Ask Bugger - he can concur...I am sure. :roflol:

 

[Thunder]

Bruce,

Sounds lik ea gremlin...My advice - find all your earth cable, ensure they are clean and are not corroded, and while you at it - make sure they are tight.

Check once again if oil is mixing with water in the engine or radiator.

I hate to say it, but it may be a crack in the head....a quick way to check, diconnect the coil wire - remove one plug at a time, and see what comes out the head when cranked. You may find fuel, if you have a spark issue, or you may find water - if you have a cracked head.

Have you done a compression test - compression testers are available at midas for about R200 max, and that will indicate if you have a pressure loss somewhere....that will indicate if you need to pull the head, or chase fuel or spark issues. The reason I mentioned a cracked head, if water leaks from your head, into the combustion chamber, the water will slowly but sure keep killing the ignition that happens on the plugs...It is essential to do a comp. test, and try avoid starting the motor until you are sure that you not getting water in the cylinder, as this will cause a lot of ball ache if you are not sure whats happening in there.

Another silly but rational question - does the car have fuel in it...? Past experience says, always, and I mean Always make sure that you have fuel in the tank....Ask Bugger - he can concur...I am sure. :roflol:

I triple checked the oil and water to make sure it isn`t mixing.

As for the crack I don`t suspect that much as water level is staying constant and the spark plugs looks okay, the compression loss is suspected as it doesn`t look like the oil is going anywhere except staying in the sump, I checked the oil pump and all seems fine and working like it should, last time the car started it started and idled 100% with no problems, (if the water went into combustion wouldn`t it cause it to sputter or miss while idling?)

And yes I know the no fuel thing, bike dropped me a lot ha ha.

Only able to start stripping and testing on Saturday so hopefully I can find the problem fast or the problem is just something small.

 

[Lizzard]

Your boot has carpet in it, you need to pull the top a little inward and then remove the carpet a bit. It will give you space and you will be able to inspect the cable.

What I did was remove the cover of the battery to expose it, then I stuck my hand where your shock mounting is and started pulling inward, the carpet gave little way but it was enough to move it at the bottom. This exposed the positive cable and I noticed the wire issue I had, it was around the bend, if you could draw a line from one rear shock to the other straight then it would be on that line just under the carpet, trust me the carpet does move.

You can also try and find someone with diagnostics hardware and see what error the car gives you as it will give an error when there is compression loss.

 

[Pho3niX90]

Regarding the car just dieing. Have you actually tested the alternator to see if it's charging correctly? When the car is started it should charge the battery from the get go so i would rule that out for now until you test the alternator, the alternator should charge the car and carry the current.. The e46 had this exact issue. Everything would be fine driving and then bang. Everything dead.

 

[Thunder]

Okay so this was one hell of a long repair, and still no real solution at hand.

Just a small catchup.
Did the rinse as suggested and car started but died twice, also could get nothing more than 20-40 km/h out of the engine.

So we decided to replace all compresion rings.

When removing the pistons just wiping them clean broke some of the rings which just shows me how done they were, found a lot of oil gunk in the sump as well as some metal shavings.
Cleaned it all out, replaced the rings and put everything back together.

Putting it back together I made the mistake of turning the camshaft as to get the timing chain pulley back on, which in its turn bent the 4 intake valves :CRY:

So pulling the head again and replaced the valves.

All back together but no starting, made 100% sure all was TDC but still just a very slow turning sound.

Found the battery to have a dead cell as it reads 12.77 volts, but no amps at all. New battery in but no luck.

Check the spark, and found 2 of the 4 plug wires are not sparking through.
New plug leads in and ready still just cranking, a lot faster but not yet really starting.

Started once but only for a second or 2 then died.

Then out of the blue, nothing, not even a click when you turn the key.

Pulled the started and found all the brushes word down but also all loose. They just fell out when we opened it up.
Got it repaired and back in last night.

Now it cranks beautifully turns good and fast but still no luck in starting.
After 5 or 6 tries it starts but doesnt idle it just dies again.

Anything I can check or possibly missed?

 

[VeNoM_Ct]

yoh that must be very frustrating :smashScreen:

Only issue I had with my previous cars were starters and the distributor not igniting...

 

[Lizzard]

Okay so this was one hell of a long repair, and still no real solution at hand.

Just a small catchup.
Did the rinse as suggested and car started but died twice, also could get nothing more than 20-40 km/h out of the engine.

So we decided to replace all compresion rings.

When removing the pistons just wiping them clean broke some of the rings which just shows me how done they were, found a lot of oil gunk in the sump as well as some metal shavings.
Cleaned it all out, replaced the rings and put everything back together.

Putting it back together I made the mistake of turning the camshaft as to get the timing chain pulley back on, which in its turn bent the 4 intake valves :CRY:

So pulling the head again and replaced the valves.

All back together but no starting, made 100% sure all was TDC but still just a very slow turning sound.

Found the battery to have a dead cell as it reads 12.77 volts, but no amps at all. New battery in but no luck.

Check the spark, and found 2 of the 4 plug wires are not sparking through.
New plug leads in and ready still just cranking, a lot faster but not yet really starting.

Started once but only for a second or 2 then died.

Then out of the blue, nothing, not even a click when you turn the key.

Pulled the started and found all the brushes word down but also all loose. They just fell out when we opened it up.
Got it repaired and back in last night.

Now it cranks beautifully turns good and fast but still no luck in starting.
After 5 or 6 tries it starts but doesnt idle it just dies again.

Anything I can check or possibly missed?

Check the idler control valve, see if it is clean. If not just wipe it with an earbud and see if the internal section can turn with ease if you push it

 

[Thunder]

Okay so this was one hell of a long repair, and still no real solution at hand.

Just a small catchup.
Did the rinse as suggested and car started but died twice, also could get nothing more than 20-40 km/h out of the engine.

So we decided to replace all compresion rings.

When removing the pistons just wiping them clean broke some of the rings which just shows me how done they were, found a lot of oil gunk in the sump as well as some metal shavings.
Cleaned it all out, replaced the rings and put everything back together.

Putting it back together I made the mistake of turning the camshaft as to get the timing chain pulley back on, which in its turn bent the 4 intake valves :CRY:

So pulling the head again and replaced the valves.

All back together but no starting, made 100% sure all was TDC but still just a very slow turning sound.

Found the battery to have a dead cell as it reads 12.77 volts, but no amps at all. New battery in but no luck.

Check the spark, and found 2 of the 4 plug wires are not sparking through.
New plug leads in and ready still just cranking, a lot faster but not yet really starting.

Started once but only for a second or 2 then died.

Then out of the blue, nothing, not even a click when you turn the key.

Pulled the started and found all the brushes word down but also all loose. They just fell out when we opened it up.
Got it repaired and back in last night.

Now it cranks beautifully turns good and fast but still no luck in starting.
After 5 or 6 tries it starts but doesnt idle it just dies again.

Anything I can check or possibly missed?

Check the idler control valve, see if it is clean. If not just wipe it with an earbud and see if the internal section can turn with ease if you push it

Sorry for the dumb question, but where does it sit?

A lot of terms and a lot of info can`t always remember everything. :rollsmile:

 

[VeNoM_Ct]

Sorry for the dumb question, but where does it sit?

A lot of terms and a lot of info can`t always remember everything. :rollsmile:

Mmm on my M3 it sits under the throttle body :skit: bit of work to get there if you lazy

maybe this will help...
looks like this... http://www.bmwe36blog.com/images/sensors/icv-idle-control-valve-bmw-e36.jpg

On my car its here: http://s16.photobucket.com/user/alastair1234/media/M3ICV.jpg.html

So should be around there.

 

[Thunder]

I`ve just checked some videos, could a crack and hole in the piping between the MAF sensor and throttle body cause the car not to start ad idle?

Not my engine but this pipe.

 

[Lizzard]

of course,

the MAF is trying to compensate for the amount of air and thus impacting on the amount of fuel that is added.

The idler control valve looks like a T piece that the air plugs into. It should be close to the location you marked on the picture above. It also has a small electrical plug 3 point plugged into it.

 

[Thunder]

of course,

the MAF is trying to compensate for the amount of air and thus impacting on the amount of fuel that is added.

The idler control valve looks like a T piece that the air plugs into. It should be close to the location you marked on the picture above. It also has a small electrical plug 3 point plugged into it.

Okay.

So finally got it started last night.

Checked every thing again, from spark, timing, fuel, oil and all.

Cleaned out the IDC and checked the piping for holes and cracks.
What is weird is that almost 4 liters of oil was put into the car when I assembled it last weekend and we almost put 4 more in last night before the dipstick actually picked up anything.

Car started and then this morning we found a bent spark plug, swapped it out and car sounds fine, not perfect yet as we found a air leak that still need to be fixed and oil leak that I need to check where and why. Still a bit truckish sound but assuming its because of air leak on inlet manifold.

Will update if anything changes.

 

[Charlie Brown]

There is something wrong somewhere - you can't have 8 liters of oil in a 4 liter sump.

 

[Thunder]

There is something wrong somewhere - you can't have 8 liters of oil in a 4 liter sump.

That is my thoughts as well.

It is overfull now, and when driving you can smell oil in the car, so will see and perhaps drain some out tomorrow as the oil light comes on and flashes now and then but the car still sounds a bit like a truck, not to sure why.