New BMW, New Problems

[Loom]

BMW coolant is fair priced at about R50/liter. Cheaper than VW, anyway.

Are the bonnet and fenders hot to the touch after driving? If so the viscous fan might not be working properly. Do the newspaper test to check. http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=39606

 

[Rompsku]

I did a finger test on the fan (jammed my finger in there...very slowly) and it wasn't chopped off. Will do a proper newspaper test when I get home.

Is an electric fan replacement difficult for a newbie? Would like to get that done if it's not too expensive for parts, and not too difficult to DIY. Should be better for performance too?

 

[zabbo]

Does anybody know of any spares places in the Cape Flats area? Looking for a few odds and ends.

It depends what specifically you are looking for. The closest is the "scrap" place in Athlone next to the library and then there is always Bruces (in Maitland) and the old Bruces (not sure what they are called now) in Kenilworth - opposite KC in the same road as the plastics warehouse.

 

[Rompsku]

Right-o, so I had some extra time last night and managed to flush the coolant. My first bit of proper maintenance is complete. Am I a proper petrolhead now? :joy:

I did the newspaper test and managed to stop the viscous fan with a few pages of rolled up newspaper, fan stop when I jammed the newspaper in there, took about a second for it to spin up again. It also makes a whirring/buzzing noise when spinning. Does that mean I need to get it fixed/replaced? How soon should I do so? Bonnet/Fenders aren't hot to the touch after a 20 minute drive.

Engine and coolant expansion tank is already a lot cooler after a drive. Still very warm, but not scolding hot like before.

 

[Loom]

According to http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-...l-forum/512843-how-test-visco-fan-clutch.html:

"1. Start the car (cold) with the hood open and note if the fan is turning, increase the engine RPM and note if the fan turns faster and the noise increases, if it does, first good indication, if it does not increase speed/noise, clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. (Remember, this must be tested after the car has been off for and extended period, over night etc.)
2. Leave engine running and note if the fan starts to slow down after 2-5 minutes, speed/noise should diminish and even raising the RPM, the fan should not make as much noise as when first starting, if it does slow, this is the second good indication. If speed/noise does not decrease, clutch may be “frozen” and should be replaced.
3. Leave the engine idle and watch the temperature indicator. When normal operating temperature has been reached, some increase in fan speed/noise should be noted, in particular when the RPM is increased. If temperature is fairly stable and the fan noise/speed increases or cycles, third good indication. If temperature indication continues to increase, with no increase in fan noise/speed, clutch is defective and should be replaced.
4. After the engine is at normal operating temperature or above, is the only time that the “rolled up newspaper” test that many people talk about should be performed! Take some newspaper and roll it up into a long narrow tube. Be carefull, keep hands and fingers away from the fan while performing this test! With the engine at full operating temperature and idling, take the rolled up paper and insert it on the back side of the fan and try to reach the hub of the fan avoiding the blades until close to the hub. Push the rolled paper at the fan increasing the friction to the hub area of the fan. If the fan can not be stopped easily this is the fourth good indication, if it can be stopped the clutch is defective and should be replaced. Again, this test can only be performed when the engine is at or above full operating temperature.
Testing can be performed in any order but just make sure the conditions during testing are those that are specified for that specific test.
Do not continue to operate the engine if the temperature continues to rise and certainly stop if the temperature approaches “redline”."

 

[Rompsku]

Thanks Loom! very informative info.
I didn't do the newspaper test properly, will do so later.

:ty:

 

[Rompsku]

Hi Guys

Apologies for the lack of posting from my side... I've been a busy boy!

So far, I've done the following to my 328i:
- New brake pads
- New front tires
- Replaced the viscous fan
- Replaced all broken light bulbs around the car
- Delensed headlights
- Debaffled Airbox
- Golf-tee mod

The debaffle mod really breathed new life into the car, feels a lot more responsive. Might just be my imagination though, or that fact that I cleaned out the air filter which was pretty dirty, but car sounds and response a lot better than before.

Next, I want to replace the coolant sensor in the expansion tank and give the car a full service. That should get rid of the last 2 error messages on the OBC... and then I can finally start the real mods.

Want to do C.A.I. first, as well as stainless steel exhausts and a few other breather mods and take it from there.

Another mod that I've read about a lot is the CDV (Clutch Delay Valve) delete. Has anybody done this? Does it really make that big of a difference?