N55

Mytfine

Well-known member
Ok, so i have settled on getting either a 135i or 335i coupe for my son.

The power issue doesn't worry me too much as he doesnt drink and he doesnt like speed very much, so this is mostly for me.

I had an N54 135i and with the exception of the wastegate rattle i had no issues, not even HPFP in 60k of usage, however the one i purchasebis probably going to have an N55.

I have no experience with an N55 motor, what are the common issues and what should i look out for.

Also a number of the coupe's have the dct box, should i avoid it like dsg or is it a reliable pain free thing ?
 

AshG108

///Member
@Mytfine - do a search on the search bar above, we have placed a good few lists of considerations for the N55 on many threads. It may be quiet helpful to get quiet a few perspectives across those threads.
 

Spanky

Well-known member
It may be quiet helpful to get quiet a few perspectives across those threads.

blinking-eyes-white-guy.gif
 

Pisancho

Active member
Ok, so i have settled on getting either a 135i or 335i coupe for my son.

The power issue doesn't worry me too much as he doesnt drink and he doesnt like speed very much, so this is mostly for me.

I had an N54 135i and with the exception of the wastegate rattle i had no issues, not even HPFP in 60k of usage, however the one i purchasebis probably going to have an N55.

I have no experience with an N55 motor, what are the common issues and what should i look out for.

Also a number of the coupe's have the dct box, should i avoid it like dsg or is it a reliable pain free thing ?
Pretty much best to check FCP euro as stated by one of the comments. A quick summary though off the top of my head,
  • Coolant flange. Get the Al one as they are prone to leak past 100k.
  • Oil filter housing gasket. Around 100k it may start leaking. This is one of the most important to do ASAP as it can wreck your motor.
  • Diverter valve, can wait for it to break.
  • Tappet cover, dont just do the gasket, replace the whole thing when it starts leaking.
  • Charge pipe, replace with metal one as it will fail. Not an if, but a definite. Best to do before your son gets stranded.
  • Serpentine belt just get inspected as it is related to the OFHG leaks. This is the belt that breaks or slides off the guides and wrecks your motor.
I would check the OFHG and do the charge pipe. Everything else is a wait to fail item and typical BMW oil leaks. Tell your son not to track an N55. They are prone to spin their bearings as they don't have the dual pump system like the S55. Also any oil leaks get them sorted quick as oil starvation will make the bearings spin. Otherwise it is a good motor.
 

Mytfine

Well-known member
Pretty much best to check FCP euro as stated by one of the comments. A quick summary though off the top of my head,
  • Coolant flange. Get the Al one as they are prone to leak past 100k.
  • Oil filter housing gasket. Around 100k it may start leaking. This is one of the most important to do ASAP as it can wreck your motor.
  • Diverter valve, can wait for it to break.
  • Tappet cover, dont just do the gasket, replace the whole thing when it starts leaking.
  • Charge pipe, replace with metal one as it will fail. Not an if, but a definite. Best to do before your son gets stranded.
  • Serpentine belt just get inspected as it is related to the OFHG leaks. This is the belt that breaks or slides off the guides and wrecks your motor.
I would check the OFHG and do the charge pipe. Everything else is a wait to fail item and typical BMW oil leaks. Tell your son not to track an N55. They are prone to spin their bearings as they don't have the dual pump system like the S55. Also any oil leaks get them sorted quick as oil starvation will make the bearings spin. Otherwise it is a good motor.


Thank you, i prefer actually owner provided info like this rather than someone just spewing what their uncles brothers cousin twice removed experienced.

I generally reseal the engine of any old bmw i buy as they allllllll come with the standard oil leaks, and no car will not be tracked.
 

Pisancho

Active member
Thank you, i prefer actually owner provided info like this rather than someone just spewing what their uncles brothers cousin twice removed experienced.

I generally reseal the engine of any old bmw i buy as they allllllll come with the standard oil leaks, and no car will not be tracked.
Lol. Thats true. I guess let me finish off the list then. Radiator was done due to small leak at 88k but i think i had hit something, OFHG was done at 89k, Tappet cover at 100k, Charge pipe at 88k but as preventive item, DV is next month as preventive also (I am tuned so don't want boost leaks), belts where inspected so still good, coolant flange at 88k with the radiator, Carbon clean at 90k, Coils and plugs at 94k (Misfires, probably worn down due to tune).

I am PWG also and havent experienced the wastegate rattle, I believe it isn't a big issue on N55s like N54s. I have a ZF8 and those are pretty bulletproof. Haven't heard much about the DCT and lots of 135i with DCT tuned and being beaten on with no issues.
 

AshG108

///Member
Apart from what the above has been mentioned:
1. Vacuum pipes must be checked, you probably stepping into the PWG on the 135i so vacuum leaks can be a PITA.
2. Turbo inlet pipe and intercooler pipes, inspect and replace with upgraded ones too, also known to get leaks.
3. Check the HVAC system, many of the BMWs end up with leaking ones which leak into the interior and end up getting the car smelly. (most older BMWs have this issue but I found many have happened on the x35s for some reason).
4. If the car does get tuned or has a tune, don't get 2-step colder plugs... get 1-step colder unless you going over Stage 2 or higher.
5. Get the sump gasket looked at as well, they are common too so if you going through all the other oil leaks then get to the sump as well one time as it is relatively cheap to fix. gasket was R1200 with bolts (a ton of them needed).
6. If you do replace the DV, and you decide on GFB...get the original GFB. There are a ton of fakes doing their rounds, and its a PITA to fit them and the cheaper ones don't last long but the GFB also makes a nice sound.
7. I didn't have issues with my waterpump thankfully but it gave yup shortly after the new owner got it, so even though it seems fine...just buy one in case because it pops up at the worst of times. Handy to have replacement available rather.
8. Check the turbo seals on the car when you get it and check the oil sweats around the turbo. Also check the actuator arm if there is any play as well.
9. Check for any residue on the rear axle and diff to see if the car has been spun before, then you know what strain was placed on it before.
10. Consider fitting a oil-catch can for excess blow-off.
11. Gearbox service dependent on mileage and type of gearbox you buying. The service made a world of difference.
12. If manual, check the clutch out...they a bit pricey to replace and if the car was spun before...that might again give you an idea of maintenance expectations.
13. Didn't get carbon clean done but many that have done it on N55, say it really does make a good difference.
14. I didn't have any issues on coilpacks but many have caught out a few coils on lumpy idle, can also check this in advance too.
15. Many will tell you to also upgrade intercooler but if not tuning and even up till Stage 2, Intercooler is optional. I fitted a bigger one anyway due to getting it for a good price and it helped when hooning the car but for daily drive and things, the stock one was still fine. However, the intercooler getting a good clean helps, they get a lot of rubbish on it and only when you take it...you realize how much it has accumulated.
16. I upgraded the filter to a flat pan K&N, the intakes on N55 unless closed have not been favorable (few threads of owners here experiencing that. The upgraded, drop-in filter was excellent and to clean etc is better.
17. Keep oil change intervals between 7500 - 10 000km, can go the 15000km but 10000km is like the sweet spot.
18. xHP gearbox tune is also pretty lekker, gives the gearbox a whole new feel all round and money well spent.
19. Injectors - Can get them cleaned up as well one time if you do a carbon clean, many N55 guys have complained off failed injectors and best if you get them tested ahead because they also can cost a packet to replace.
20. Check the OBD plug and check if it is really lose, tell-tale sign that the car was being logged a lot and possibly tuned before.
21. And then there is also the vanos issues (Solenoids, seals etc.)...prep yourself for these. Limp mode, Engine light or sluggish ... this is also a kak job too.
22. VVT motor as well, that goes with the Vanos...can be frustrating once it gives you issues and to diagnose them.

These are top of my head from ownership and experience through the time I had my N55, granted mine was good and didn't give me many issues but I kept my eye on these things while I had it as well.
 
Last edited:

Pisancho

Active member
Apart from what the above has been mentioned:
1. Vacuum pipes must be checked, you probably stepping into the PWG on the 135i so vacuum leaks can be a PITA.
2. Turbo inlet pipe and intercooler pipes, inspect and replace with upgraded ones too, also known to get leaks.
3. Check the HVAC system, many of the BMWs end up with leaking ones which leak into the interior and end up getting the car smelly. (most older BMWs have this issue but I found many have happened on the x35s for some reason).
4. If the car does get tuned or has a tune, don't get 2-step colder plugs... get 1-step colder unless you going over Stage 2 or higher.
5. Get the sump gasket looked at as well, they are common too so if you going through all the other oil leaks then get to the sump as well one time as it is relatively cheap to fix. gasket was R1200 with bolts (a ton of them needed).
6. If you do replace the DV, and you decide on GFB...get the original GFB. There are a ton of fakes doing their rounds, and its a PITA to fit them and the cheaper ones don't last long but the GFB also makes a nice sound.
7. I didn't have issues with my waterpump thankfully but it gave yup shortly after the new owner got it, so even though it seems fine...just buy one in case because it pops up at the worst of times. Handy to have replacement available rather.
8. Check the turbo seals on the car when you get it and check the oil sweats around the turbo. Also check the actuator arm if there is any play as well.
9. Check for any residue on the rear axle and diff to see if the car has been spun before, then you know what strain was placed on it before.
10. Consider fitting a oil-catch can for excess blow-off.
11. Gearbox service dependent on mileage and type of gearbox you buying. The service made a work of difference.
12. If manual, check the clutch out...they a bit pricey to replace and if the car was spun before...that might again give you an idea of maintenance expectations.
13. Didn't get carbon clean done but many that have done it on N55, say it really does make a good difference.
14. I didn't have any issues on coilpacks but many have caught out a few coils on lumpy idle, can also check this in advance too.
15. Many will tell you to also upgrade intercooler but if not tuning and even up till Stage 2, Intercooler is optional. I fitted a bigger one anyway due to getting it for a good price and it helped when hooning the car but for daily drive and things, the stock one was still fine. However, the intercooler getting a good clean helps, they get a lot of rubbish on it and only when you take it...you realize how much it has accumulted.
16. I upgraded the filter to a flat pan K&N, the intakes on N55 unless closed have not been favourable (few threads of owners here experiencing that. The upgraded, drop-in filter was excellent and to clean etc is better.
17. Keep oil change intervals between 7500 - 10 000km, can go the 15000km but 10000km is like the sweet spot.
18. xHP gearbox tune is also pretty lekker, gives the gearbox a whole new feel all round and money well spent.
19. Injectors - Can get them cleaned up as well one time if you do a carbon clean, many N55 guys have omplianed off failed injectors and best if you get them tested ahead because they also can cause a packet to replace.
My inlet pipe was done also. Have had so many things I forget now. Not a common failure point usually but mine was done with the turbo.

Sump gasket i would try and do with the rod bearings if budget allows. Bearings aren't a big thing but go to any repair shop and they will tell you about a couple of N55s with spun bearings even when not tracked. I will do mine as soon as my gasket leaks for peace of mind. 25k service intervals from previous owners, stop start all contribute to their wear so would do it.

Oil catch cans on N55s are i guess dependent on owner, i think its a waste of money on the N55. N54s did need them.

Mine had quite a bit of sludge build up and had 3 oil changes with engine flush done to clear it out. Short distance driving was the cluprit.

Otherwise you pretty much got the main stuff N55s suffer from.
 

AshG108

///Member
My inlet pipe was done also. Have had so many things I forget now. Not a common failure point usually but mine was done with the turbo.

Sump gasket i would try and do with the rod bearings if budget allows. Bearings aren't a big thing but go to any repair shop and they will tell you about a couple of N55s with spun bearings even when not tracked. I will do mine as soon as my gasket leaks for peace of mind. 25k service intervals from previous owners, stop start all contribute to their wear so would do it.

Oil catch cans on N55s are i guess dependent on owner, i think its a waste of money on the N55. N54s did need them.

Mine had quite a bit of sludge build up and had 3 oil changes with engine flush done to clear it out. Short distance driving was the cluprit.

Otherwise you pretty much got the main stuff N55s suffer from.
Correct,

I did a lot of these things just as preventative maintenance because I was tuning the car...didn't want it to start issues while enjoying it. That was the main aim was to play with it and also get reliability because I would use it for some long drives too. It performed excellent though, they love the open road.

Oil catch-can, I was going to fit one but only when I was going to upgrade the turbo. The charge pipe was seeing a bit more after the upgrade were piling on but yep, dependent on owner and purpose too.

Thankfully I didn't suffer many of the above failures etc but great to have the list and tick off on advance if and when possible. ALso heard of a few N55s that spun bearings...was shocked.
 

Pisancho

Active member
Correct,

I did a lot of these things just as preventative maintenance because I was tuning the car...didn't want it to start issues while enjoying it. That was the main aim was to play with it and also get reliability because I would use it for some long drives too. It performed excellent though, they love the open road.

Oil catch-can, I was going to fit one but only when I was going to upgrade the turbo. The charge pipe was seeing a bit more after the upgrade were piling on but yep, dependent on owner and purpose too.

Thankfully I didn't suffer many of the above failures etc but great to have the list and tick off on advance if and when possible. ALso heard of a few N55s that spun bearings...was shocked.
Nice, you prove the point that Enthusiat tuned cars are much better looked after than the average owner. N55s are good though, there is a member on Bimmerpost, Hoa is his user profile, he has a 600k plus km 535i on original engine and gearbox. Another user on the same forum has a M2 N55 with over 370k km running a Pure 750 turbo, he is making a bit over 500kw. Very good motors.
 

Mytfine

Well-known member
Nice, you prove the point that Enthusiat tuned cars are much better looked after than the average owner. N55s are good though, there is a member on Bimmerpost, Hoa is his user profile, he has a 600k plus km 535i on original engine and gearbox. Another user on the same forum has a M2 N55 with over 370k km running a Pure 750 turbo, he is making a bit over 500kw. Very good motors.

Im not looking for mad power, so stock is good for me maybe just down pipe and exhaust to free up the noise.

I am very old school, i believe in 10k oil invertals, letting oil temp warm up properly, taking it easy on the last 2or 3km on a turbo car idle for a min or 2 thrn shut down etc.

When i was trying to sell what was then a 3 year old 135i coupe i was expected to take a proper bath as the car was by then perceived to be unreliable yet i had not a single mechanical issue in my ownership. I was only spared the pain when someone t boned it.
 
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