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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
MY2000 E39 ///M5 - Alpine White - Restoration Journey
nirvash
Well-known member
Following the intake coming together, was an oil change.
The pre-facelift S62's used a 10W60, while the facelift variants used 5W30. I settled on 5W30 for the moment, while I'm busy working on the car to flush it, as well as the fact that I would be using the car more as a "cruiser" than an outright sports car, and driving it hard or on track. So better lubrication while the engine is warming up and normal driving was in mind, instead of a thicker oil as I'm not going to be living in the redline with her.
An OEM Oil Filter, O-ring and new washer were used:
The pre-facelift S62's used a 10W60, while the facelift variants used 5W30. I settled on 5W30 for the moment, while I'm busy working on the car to flush it, as well as the fact that I would be using the car more as a "cruiser" than an outright sports car, and driving it hard or on track. So better lubrication while the engine is warming up and normal driving was in mind, instead of a thicker oil as I'm not going to be living in the redline with her.
An OEM Oil Filter, O-ring and new washer were used:
nirvash
Well-known member
So,
that kept me relatively busy, working on the car here and there when I had a moment, but the big time consumer was:
If you remember, I had a no crank no start issue with the car.
So trawling through various forums, this one included, looking online, chatting to people etc, I started with the "basics" to try get it running.
- New Battering was installed
- New Ignition Switch
- New Starter Relay
- Relevant fuses checked and changed
- Key and EWS checked and sync'd
Still nothing, no crank, no start.
Getting those items out of the way, I then got the car up on Jack Stands and removed the Starter Motor. Sourced a second hand working one from @Benji and installed it.
I was certain this would sort it out.
It didn't....
I went over everything again, doubled checked stuff, checked all ground wire etc etc
Still no luck,
Finally I called in an Auto Electrician to come look at the car.
After looking here and there, asking questions, giving him all the info etc, he was also a but stumped, but decided to check the fuses.
He put new fuses in slot 9 and 20 (in the glove box) if I remember correctly, which relate to the cars aircon heater system.
With these fuses replaced,
It Started!!!🙌👏
How or why this prevented the car from starting in the first place, I have no idea, but hey, it works now, so I'm not complaining.
After all the advice I had gotten, and everything I had researched, this had never come up or was mentioned.
This was all done, while I was busy doing the service on the car and putting it back together.
The car started and ran fine.
I finished up all the cleaning, putting back together and servicing, started her up....
Rough idle, and dying......
Double checked everything, everything seems fine.
The one thing we did notice is that the o2/oxygen sensors in the aftermarket exhaust are not connected and the wires have been cut
So I'm going to get that rewired, and replaced.
When I scan the car using INPA, the only engine fault that comes up is the Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor (EGT sensor) is not working.
NOW,
the even stranger thing is, the car ran well before, it idled well before, drove well. But the oxygen sensors were not connected.
Now its not running or idling well, but those are the only issues I can see, and as far as I'm aware, the engine needs these oxygen sensors to adjust fueling correctly.
During the cleaning and servicing, I noticed the car has 2 Unichips installed in the ECU compartment, meaning the car was "tuned" at some point.
My question is, can the car be made to run properly, though tuning, without oxygen sensors in the exhaust, like a closed loop system or something like that???
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks @M3boi @KPM3_30 !
that kept me relatively busy, working on the car here and there when I had a moment, but the big time consumer was:
If you remember, I had a no crank no start issue with the car.
So trawling through various forums, this one included, looking online, chatting to people etc, I started with the "basics" to try get it running.
- New Battering was installed
- New Ignition Switch
- New Starter Relay
- Relevant fuses checked and changed
- Key and EWS checked and sync'd
Still nothing, no crank, no start.
Getting those items out of the way, I then got the car up on Jack Stands and removed the Starter Motor. Sourced a second hand working one from @Benji and installed it.
I was certain this would sort it out.
It didn't....
I went over everything again, doubled checked stuff, checked all ground wire etc etc
Still no luck,
Finally I called in an Auto Electrician to come look at the car.
After looking here and there, asking questions, giving him all the info etc, he was also a but stumped, but decided to check the fuses.
He put new fuses in slot 9 and 20 (in the glove box) if I remember correctly, which relate to the cars aircon heater system.
With these fuses replaced,
It Started!!!
🙌👏How or why this prevented the car from starting in the first place, I have no idea, but hey, it works now, so I'm not complaining.
After all the advice I had gotten, and everything I had researched, this had never come up or was mentioned.
This was all done, while I was busy doing the service on the car and putting it back together.
The car started and ran fine.
I finished up all the cleaning, putting back together and servicing, started her up....
Rough idle, and dying......
Double checked everything, everything seems fine.
The one thing we did notice is that the o2/oxygen sensors in the aftermarket exhaust are not connected and the wires have been cut
So I'm going to get that rewired, and replaced.
When I scan the car using INPA, the only engine fault that comes up is the Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor (EGT sensor) is not working.
NOW,
the even stranger thing is, the car ran well before, it idled well before, drove well. But the oxygen sensors were not connected.
Now its not running or idling well, but those are the only issues I can see, and as far as I'm aware, the engine needs these oxygen sensors to adjust fueling correctly.
During the cleaning and servicing, I noticed the car has 2 Unichips installed in the ECU compartment, meaning the car was "tuned
" at some point.My question is, can the car be made to run properly, though tuning, without oxygen sensors in the exhaust, like a closed loop system or something like that???
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks @M3boi @KPM3_30 !
M3boi
Well-known member
So,
that kept me relatively busy, working on the car here and there when I had a moment, but the big time consumer was:
If you remember, I had a no crank no start issue with the car.
So trawling through various forums, this one included, looking online, chatting to people etc, I started with the "basics" to try get it running.
- New Battering was installed
- New Ignition Switch
- New Starter Relay
- Relevant fuses checked and changed
- Key and EWS checked and sync'd
Still nothing, no crank, no start.
Getting those items out of the way, I then got the car up on Jack Stands and removed the Starter Motor. Sourced a second hand working one from @Benji and installed it.
I was certain this would sort it out.
It didn't....
I went over everything again, doubled checked stuff, checked all ground wire etc etc
Still no luck,
Finally I called in an Auto Electrician to come look at the car.
After looking here and there, asking questions, giving him all the info etc, he was also a but stumped, but decided to check the fuses.
He put new fuses in slot 9 and 20 (in the glove box) if I remember correctly, which relate to the cars aircon heater system.
With these fuses replaced,
It Started!!!
How or why this prevented the car from starting in the first place, I have no idea, but hey, it works now, so I'm not complaining.
After all the advice I had gotten, and everything I had researched, this had never come up or was mentioned.
This was all done, while I was busy doing the service on the car and putting it back together.
The car started and ran fine.
I finished up all the cleaning, putting back together and servicing, started her up....
Rough idle, and dying......
Double checked everything, everything seems fine.
The one thing we did notice is that the o2/oxygen sensors in the aftermarket exhaust are not connected and the wires have been cut
So I'm going to get that rewired, and replaced.
When I scan the car using INPA, the only engine fault that comes up is the Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor (EGT sensor) is not working.
NOW,
the even stranger thing is, the car ran well before, it idled well before, drove well. But the oxygen sensors were not connected.
Now its not running or idling well, but those are the only issues I can see, and as far as I'm aware, the engine needs these oxygen sensors to adjust fueling correctly.
During the cleaning and servicing, I noticed the car has 2 Unichips installed in the ECU compartment, meaning the car was "tuned
My question is, can the car be made to run properly, though tuning, without oxygen sensors in the exhaust, like a closed loop system or something like that???
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks @M3boi @KPM3_30 !
I highly sugguest getting in touch with Hermann at HAT Dynamics in Wynberg, he'll be able to properly guide you in terms of the ECU and o2 sensor situation.
Nice work on the engine bay.
Eish on the unichips. I hope it was at least done properly, some of the installers used to absolutley butcher the harness.
In fact maybe your fauly lies somwhere there, its my understanding that a unichip basically is wired in between the sensors and ecu and and fools the ecu to provide more timing/fueling.
Maybe unbutcher the harness and start from stock
Eish on the unichips. I hope it was at least done properly, some of the installers used to absolutley butcher the harness.
In fact maybe your fauly lies somwhere there, its my understanding that a unichip basically is wired in between the sensors and ecu and and fools the ecu to provide more timing/fueling.
Maybe unbutcher the harness and start from stock
I am not well versed in this specific engine, but to answer the question. On other platforms it certainly is a yes. So my best uneducated guess is, yes. Though, it would run in a standard mode. I am not sure if this is part of an Alpha-N tune or not, but that I remember was something youtubers do to their E39 M5 cars and it included not needing certain sensors, but I thought that was more to do with the airflow sensor, I maybe wrong. So maybe research the Alpha-N mode/tune.
///M Individual
Well-known member
Awesome work thus far bud! Well done!
General.Massacre
///Member
This is great to see a detailed thread on an actual build/restore. well done.
You've done a hell of a lot, and its coming together very well.
As said above, the Unichips butcher the OEM harness by splicing into everything required, its a shame, but with careful tracing, it can be removed and returned to stock.
For the O2 sensors however, was it cut before, or after the OEM harness plug? if after, then just unplug and join the wires, do not solder them, as it changes the resistance on the wires and gives higher, or lower voltages back to the ECU, rather get crimp joiners and heatshrink. or better yet, just replace the O2 Sensors entirely.
If its been cut before the plug, then thats just stupid, but the same applies, join and carefully rewire. should be able to buy new Electrical pins from BMW for that plug, then just repin it with OEM pins from the factory
You've done a hell of a lot, and its coming together very well.
As said above, the Unichips butcher the OEM harness by splicing into everything required, its a shame, but with careful tracing, it can be removed and returned to stock.
For the O2 sensors however, was it cut before, or after the OEM harness plug? if after, then just unplug and join the wires, do not solder them, as it changes the resistance on the wires and gives higher, or lower voltages back to the ECU, rather get crimp joiners and heatshrink. or better yet, just replace the O2 Sensors entirely.
If its been cut before the plug, then thats just stupid, but the same applies, join and carefully rewire. should be able to buy new Electrical pins from BMW for that plug, then just repin it with OEM pins from the factory
jayaynikkal
Member
You are an inspiration 🙏
Keep up the good work, meneer
Keep up the good work, meneer
S62 whether pre face lift or facelift runs 10w60.
The 30 you are using is too thin for the engine and damage could occur.
Unichips would be best used in a trash can so get them removed.
Pre face lifts have an exhaust temperature sensor which the face lifts did not have it can be coded out.
O2 sensors can be coded out and I suspect that will be the end of your faults.
The 30 you are using is too thin for the engine and damage could occur.
Unichips would be best used in a trash can so get them removed.
Pre face lifts have an exhaust temperature sensor which the face lifts did not have it can be coded out.
O2 sensors can be coded out and I suspect that will be the end of your faults.
Sjanga525i
New member
I spent about 20K on the timing kit, just one guide missing so im contemplating using the used one because BMW has no stock at all. In terms of the short shifter kit i ordered:
shifter arm: B25117573127
Shift lever: B25117546373
Supporter: B25111220600
I think i did not order the knob...still need to order that.
Randy ///M
///Member
wow that engine bay got a good work out
look's so clean now !!!
looking forward to this Build well done
