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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
My E39
- Thread starter zaleonardz
- Start date
zaleonardz
Well-known member
Rear main seal is R500 from the agents... Although i have never done one... how hard can it be ?
Pressure plate bolts are R10 from the agents, so i'll replace those...
Sucky part is that rear main seal, as it means I have to drop off the flywheel which I really did not want to do.
No flywheel bolts though, they are incased in the flywheel, so you cant change them.
Pressure plate bolts are R10 from the agents, so i'll replace those...
Sucky part is that rear main seal, as it means I have to drop off the flywheel which I really did not want to do.
No flywheel bolts though, they are incased in the flywheel, so you cant change them.
zaleonardz
Well-known member
Werries to the rescue....
How hard does this dude rock :thumbsup:
So bit of feedback. Box is on the ground, but I was really tired last night.
Pressure plate is a direct fit, both clutch discs are the same diameter.
By the way, the clutch that came out of there was in fact a LUK clutch, but it did have a BMW part number on it... interesting is it not.
I also have a siff oil leak from the top, meaning that my gearbox is covered in meters (almost) of muck all round, so Iwill clean the box, do some electrical repairs, and clean the flywheel surface before werries comes to help with that rear main seal+++
How hard does this dude rock :thumbsup:
So bit of feedback. Box is on the ground, but I was really tired last night.
Pressure plate is a direct fit, both clutch discs are the same diameter.
By the way, the clutch that came out of there was in fact a LUK clutch, but it did have a BMW part number on it... interesting is it not.
I also have a siff oil leak from the top, meaning that my gearbox is covered in meters (almost) of muck all round, so Iwill clean the box, do some electrical repairs, and clean the flywheel surface before werries comes to help with that rear main seal+++
zaleonardz
Well-known member
K basic write up so long.
I put the car on wheel stands in front, and tressels at the back so that I can turn the rear wheels, this is important as you need to get the drive shaft out, and turn it.
1. Covers off, star screwy bit, they just turn off..
2. Focus on Exhaust, did the 4 flanges up in front, penetrating oil, usual stuff.
3. Move to the back, The boxes actually mount to the body by means of a steady bracket, and the rubber mounting attaches to that. loosen all o the screws.
4. The exhaust is now theoretically loose, except fo the middle cross member.
5. Next remove the exhaust electricals, I had 4 o2 sensors, and 2 lambda. wires to exhaust with tape, as if the exhaust should drop you dont want to crack a plug casing.
6. I of course have a 4 pipe, which means the exhaust splits left and right at the back, this is the perfect place to put in a 3 ton, to lift up the exhuast, you will have to find somehwere else, perhaps further forward at middle silencer.
7. with the jack taking the weight of the exhaust, remove the exhaust cross member, slowly lower the exhaust, have a crowbar ready to help with the seperation at the exhaust flanges.
8. Exhaust on the floor, it is now 1.5 hours later... I dont know about the M62 config, but the S62 exhaust is one mofo of an exhaust, laying under a car, you dont really have the space to manuver it, so jacking and balancing is in the order of the day.
9. Exhuast out, more heatshields off..
10. Mark drive shafts!!!!! ( I knew I had to do this, but fscking forgot... moron)
11. Loosen drive shaft at the guibo, careful, you want to remove the drive shaft from the guibo, not the guibo from the exhaust. THere are 6 bots in total, you only need to focus on three.
12. Remove 2 of the guibo bolts, loosen the 3rd, keep it in place. put the car in gear.
13. Start at the drive shaft, these are 13mm nuts, loosen, release gear, turn a bit, gear lock the shaft... loosen some more, you get the idea.
13a. You may have to remove the transmission mount to get to the guibo/drive shaft bolts, I did this temp with a jack under the gearbox, and when the bolts were loose, I put the transmission brace (or at least 1 screw each side back)
14. once both sides of the drive shaft is loose, you can start with the drive shaft center bearing mounted to the body, its good if you have somebody to help here, as I am not a fan of letting the drive shaft flop around, and like taking it out straight.
15. Kewl, now start with the gearbox bolts, T12's all round, most easy to get too, the two bolts RIGHT AT THE tops are T10's. 10 or 12 bolts in total I think. The top two are obtainable with extensions.
16. Since you have a torque converter, you will have to go one extra step and through the inspection rubber on the engine side of the bellhousing, you would have to find the TC bolts, remove, turn the engine, ect... I think there are 4 bolts for the V8 (bently only says 3 on the M60).
17 once done, focus on shifter links, or in your case electronic connectors bla bla
18 Secure gearbox with a jack and a piece of wood, I actually used 2 jacks on my M60 auto, one on either side of the tranny.
19, Remove the transmission mount with the box on the jacks,
20. Pull slowly backward... make sure that the TC comes with the gearbox, if it pulls out, you will have a right royal EXPENSIVE mess on the floor.
Rick, you will be able to do this with your eyes closed, its a really easy job actually, its a long job which should take about 3 to 5 hours to drop the box, but its easy, all mechanical.
I put the car on wheel stands in front, and tressels at the back so that I can turn the rear wheels, this is important as you need to get the drive shaft out, and turn it.
1. Covers off, star screwy bit, they just turn off..
2. Focus on Exhaust, did the 4 flanges up in front, penetrating oil, usual stuff.
3. Move to the back, The boxes actually mount to the body by means of a steady bracket, and the rubber mounting attaches to that. loosen all o the screws.
4. The exhaust is now theoretically loose, except fo the middle cross member.
5. Next remove the exhaust electricals, I had 4 o2 sensors, and 2 lambda. wires to exhaust with tape, as if the exhaust should drop you dont want to crack a plug casing.
6. I of course have a 4 pipe, which means the exhaust splits left and right at the back, this is the perfect place to put in a 3 ton, to lift up the exhuast, you will have to find somehwere else, perhaps further forward at middle silencer.
7. with the jack taking the weight of the exhaust, remove the exhaust cross member, slowly lower the exhaust, have a crowbar ready to help with the seperation at the exhaust flanges.
8. Exhaust on the floor, it is now 1.5 hours later... I dont know about the M62 config, but the S62 exhaust is one mofo of an exhaust, laying under a car, you dont really have the space to manuver it, so jacking and balancing is in the order of the day.
9. Exhuast out, more heatshields off..
10. Mark drive shafts!!!!! ( I knew I had to do this, but fscking forgot... moron)
11. Loosen drive shaft at the guibo, careful, you want to remove the drive shaft from the guibo, not the guibo from the exhaust. THere are 6 bots in total, you only need to focus on three.
12. Remove 2 of the guibo bolts, loosen the 3rd, keep it in place. put the car in gear.
13. Start at the drive shaft, these are 13mm nuts, loosen, release gear, turn a bit, gear lock the shaft... loosen some more, you get the idea.
13a. You may have to remove the transmission mount to get to the guibo/drive shaft bolts, I did this temp with a jack under the gearbox, and when the bolts were loose, I put the transmission brace (or at least 1 screw each side back)
14. once both sides of the drive shaft is loose, you can start with the drive shaft center bearing mounted to the body, its good if you have somebody to help here, as I am not a fan of letting the drive shaft flop around, and like taking it out straight.
15. Kewl, now start with the gearbox bolts, T12's all round, most easy to get too, the two bolts RIGHT AT THE tops are T10's. 10 or 12 bolts in total I think. The top two are obtainable with extensions.
16. Since you have a torque converter, you will have to go one extra step and through the inspection rubber on the engine side of the bellhousing, you would have to find the TC bolts, remove, turn the engine, ect... I think there are 4 bolts for the V8 (bently only says 3 on the M60).
17 once done, focus on shifter links, or in your case electronic connectors bla bla
18 Secure gearbox with a jack and a piece of wood, I actually used 2 jacks on my M60 auto, one on either side of the tranny.
19, Remove the transmission mount with the box on the jacks,
20. Pull slowly backward... make sure that the TC comes with the gearbox, if it pulls out, you will have a right royal EXPENSIVE mess on the floor.
Rick, you will be able to do this with your eyes closed, its a really easy job actually, its a long job which should take about 3 to 5 hours to drop the box, but its easy, all mechanical.
Sankekur
///Member
This is some really good info and some awesome work :thumbsup: LZ, you now seem like the perfect guy for me to contact when I get to clutch replacing 
:mmm:
Edit: Oh I should also add that I was fortunate enough to be taken for a spin in the M5 a while back, it is absolutely awesome, as should be expected
:mmm:Edit: Oh I should also add that I was fortunate enough to be taken for a spin in the M5 a while back, it is absolutely awesome, as should be expected
zaleonardz
Well-known member
Soooo feedback.
Werries arrived this evening, and after my daughter took him for a bounce on the trampoline, we got straight to work.
long story short, clutch done, box back.
The hardest and most time consuming part of this entire job believe it or not is handing that mofo of an exhaust, its really not childs play.
Car is not on the ground yet, the previous owners/mechanics that worked on the car before Werries even had it raped the underside a lil bit, and there is a ton of clips and brackets, particularly for the heatshields/cable guides and stuff missing that I am going to make up again.
Also there was an incident at some point with the exhuast sensor wiring which got eaten. I have replaced those with IP67 rated plugs as well. That was a MOFO working upside down like that....
I need another 3 hours with the car tomorrow night, but I ran through the gears while the car wheels was off the ground, and she feels good. That clutch is softer then the E46's....
Oh, and we changed out main seal as well which Werries brought with for me...
Werries... tankies muchly dude, I really appreciate it, and you Frikken ROCK :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Werries arrived this evening, and after my daughter took him for a bounce on the trampoline, we got straight to work.
long story short, clutch done, box back.
The hardest and most time consuming part of this entire job believe it or not is handing that mofo of an exhaust, its really not childs play.
Car is not on the ground yet, the previous owners/mechanics that worked on the car before Werries even had it raped the underside a lil bit, and there is a ton of clips and brackets, particularly for the heatshields/cable guides and stuff missing that I am going to make up again.
Also there was an incident at some point with the exhuast sensor wiring which got eaten. I have replaced those with IP67 rated plugs as well. That was a MOFO working upside down like that....
I need another 3 hours with the car tomorrow night, but I ran through the gears while the car wheels was off the ground, and she feels good. That clutch is softer then the E46's....
Oh, and we changed out main seal as well which Werries brought with for me...
Werries... tankies muchly dude, I really appreciate it, and you Frikken ROCK :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Uber Soldat
///Member
Awesome stuff Mr LZ! Glad to hear that the clutch works. Now at least I won't have to keep wondering whether mine will.
Werner is definitely a legend! :clap:
Werner is definitely a legend! :clap:
zaleonardz
Well-known member
So, for the second night in a row, I worked on this car till late, but I took her for a drive and that clutch is so smooth its unreal.
I know its going to get a bit harder when the self adjusting pressure plate adjusts, but its even softer then the mini's clutch.
I also managed to solve a couple of other lil electrical gremlins, and she even got a quick oil/filter change as well.
All I need to do is that rod bearing replacement and service the VANOS, then my beast is in awesome mechanical condition again, but that can wait, as we are taking her down to Margate this weekend.
Again, big :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: to Werries... I owe you dude... seriously
Uber, for sure dude, Werner left those tools with me, I need to get it to you before the weekend as I am going away. Now we need to get your 6-speed conversion done.
Johannes, for sure dude, I recon you need to drop the box (virtually identical to the above procedure) and lets get started with it.
I know its going to get a bit harder when the self adjusting pressure plate adjusts, but its even softer then the mini's clutch.
I also managed to solve a couple of other lil electrical gremlins, and she even got a quick oil/filter change as well.
All I need to do is that rod bearing replacement and service the VANOS, then my beast is in awesome mechanical condition again, but that can wait, as we are taking her down to Margate this weekend.
Again, big :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: to Werries... I owe you dude... seriously
Uber, for sure dude, Werner left those tools with me, I need to get it to you before the weekend as I am going away. Now we need to get your 6-speed conversion done.
Johannes, for sure dude, I recon you need to drop the box (virtually identical to the above procedure) and lets get started with it.
Uber Soldat
///Member
rick540 said:
+ 1
zaleonardz
Well-known member
Biofreak, sorry dude, I never saw your post.
Clutch is still strong, no complaints..
Ok so some updates. My polisher did not have any work to do, so I gave him some :biglol:
Wet sand the M completly te get the paint smooth, remember car had a respray, and the previous owner never had the time to finish up the final coat.
Washed
More to come later
Clutch is still strong, no complaints..
Ok so some updates. My polisher did not have any work to do, so I gave him some :biglol:
Wet sand the M completly te get the paint smooth, remember car had a respray, and the previous owner never had the time to finish up the final coat.
Washed
More to come later
andrewbuch
///Member
Awesome lz she is going to look so so beautiful. That color is just so awesome
