How to build a 120i e87

Missioner

Member
Captain_Stealth said:
Missioner said:
Please sir, pray tell.

I plan on welding a plate on 4 of the arms which have the flat side. The other arm will be replaced with the M3 ones that I will eventually get.

The M3 arms with poly or spherical bushes are the best you can get in my opinion. They said I should get everything back by Tuesday

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I think it sounds like you have a capital plan.

Awaiting pictures.
 

Captain_Stealth

Well-known member
b45ae6a6b7a0824fa8d4dc9b610aa484.jpg


Ready for the weekend


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Captain_Stealth

Well-known member
Powerflex time
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The arms were sent in for poly bushes
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Below is all the bushings installed. Yellow and Purple bushes are powerflex. The orange and black bushes are the ones that were sent in
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Eibach roll bar installed
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Time to install the subframe was flippen kak
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This is the Diff I upgraded to. It was a while back. It’s from a 130i and 3.46 ratio
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Diff installed. Tomorrow gonna finalize the rear install
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The guy that was to do the reinforcement of the arms advised me not to as it would make them weaker. I am gonna need to try find some m versions. The below arm is also a week point. Very flimsy
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This is what I wanna try fabricate or upgrade too
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Captain_Stealth

Well-known member
Ok so just finished, everything is back in and I have upgraded to the E82 rear subframe supports to all I need to do is to install the brace.

If you have an E87 then you wont have this reinforcement arms or the brace

E87 on the left. E82 on the right
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I have the brace only problem now is that the exhaust is getting in the way.

This is what it looks like when it is installed
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Took a final pic of everything installed
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More updates soon. Got a buddy coming from the UK and he is bringing me some M3 front arms so I should be getting -1.5 degrees of camber as I also have those camber plates


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Captain_Stealth

Well-known member
Found the missing pipe so I could finish connecting the brakes.
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Brakes are now bled and pedal feel is nice and hard.

I wanted to swap in the Motorsport seats but my seats were manual and these were memory electric seats, I had a look and I think I can mod them to fit with the manual bases.
To dismantle an electric seat is a real pain in the ass btw
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The is some material missing from the passenger side of the seat which I am going to send in to be repaired.
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The swap is very tedious but worth it as Motorsport are amazing !

I am thinking of selling the old motors and frames from these seats. If anyone is interested let me know via pm
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Also found my leak issue was caused due to there being some snapped bolts which are suppose to keep the sump in place. Might swap this block with the one on the E36 as it is in better shape.

Updates hopefully soon


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Captain_Stealth

Well-known member
eearle said:
Those seats look like you have your work cut out for you.

Dismantling the first time really took some time especially on the electric one. The are seriously kak to do as space is limited. But should be fun


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Captain_Stealth

Well-known member
cOlDFuSiOn said:
Those seats are going to look and feel the business! :praise:

Thanks. I couldn’t let them go. Just had to install. I knew I had to find a way to do it


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osiris

///Member
This is completely insane in such an awesome way! :praise: I cannot believe I kept looking past this thread. What a deceiving name!

Well done this is looking awesome and it sounds great too!
 

Captain_Stealth

Well-known member
Hey guys more updates coming this weekend !!!

This is my oil after I drained it. Took it to some guy around 400km ago and when I drained it as I was gonna remove the sump this is what I found.

Would it be possible for new oil to look like this after 400km
c68bea851fefd817679f03eae3827a59.jpg

a24a43e9e78222be69e62746c5c8c459.jpg

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Ran my fingers through the oil sediment and it came out like this.
a18d3af6586c1c5729c031c983a522e3.jpg


So what do u guys think ?



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osiris

///Member
Captain_Stealth said:
Hey guys more updates coming this weekend !!!

This is my oil after I drained it. Took it to some guy around 400km ago and when I drained it as I was gonna remove the sump this is what I found.

Would it be possible for new oil to look like this after 400km
c68bea851fefd817679f03eae3827a59.jpg

a24a43e9e78222be69e62746c5c8c459.jpg

54b2ee67f33b6bae0a6b060423964aa3.jpg

Ran my fingers through the oil sediment and it came out like this.
a18d3af6586c1c5729c031c983a522e3.jpg


So what do u guys think ?



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Absolutely! Have a look at my build thread for my z4 and you will see the ordeal I went through with my oil to get it clean. I think it was a good 4 or 5 oil changes within a month!

Draining the oil from your car and putting new oil in and looking at the dip stick which looks clean means nothing. drain that oil after 20 mins of driving and it will still be black. Their is allot of oil left in the engine when you drain it. hiding in all sorts of nooks and cranny's.

What I did on one of the oil changes was mix in 1 or 2 liters of Diesel. I ran the engine for 10 mins then drained it then filled it up. Drove around for an hour then drained that and then refilled it. Checked the oil via the oil filter later that night and it was finally clean. But that was after the 4th or 5th oil change.
 

Captain_Stealth

Well-known member
TIME FOR UPDATE !!!

Finally finished and my Motorsport seats are now manual

Take note the seat in these pics was the one that had the tear in it. Any to get a new side put in it cost me R500 for real leather

I would recommend anyone doing this unless you are getting the seats for cheap.

The electric seats needed some modification to mount correctly but def worth it as the Motorsport seats are amazing.

First thing is the manual seats have a bracket attached to the seat frame that has been riveted on.

So I drilled out the rivets with a 6mm bit and it came out like this

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This is the amount of holes I needed to drill
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Holes drilled
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Attached the brackets with the button screws
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Bottom is attached again
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Mechanisms reinstalled
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Covers back and boom done !
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This is the side where the material was missing
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Finally done and to be installed maybe tomorrow.
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I am no professional but this has taken me around 10 hours to do this with simple tools. Total cost including seats and repairs to do this conversion so far has been under R1800

I still need to do the drivers side but that might be a mission as I also need to change the airbag


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BeemerFanatic

Events Organiser
osiris said:
Captain_Stealth said:
Hey guys more updates coming this weekend !!!

This is my oil after I drained it. Took it to some guy around 400km ago and when I drained it as I was gonna remove the sump this is what I found.

Would it be possible for new oil to look like this after 400km
c68bea851fefd817679f03eae3827a59.jpg

a24a43e9e78222be69e62746c5c8c459.jpg

54b2ee67f33b6bae0a6b060423964aa3.jpg

Ran my fingers through the oil sediment and it came out like this.
a18d3af6586c1c5729c031c983a522e3.jpg


So what do u guys think ?



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Absolutely! Have a look at my build thread for my z4 and you will see the ordeal I went through with my oil to get it clean. I think it was a good 4 or 5 oil changes within a month!

Draining the oil from your car and putting new oil in and looking at the dip stick which looks clean means nothing. drain that oil after 20 mins of driving and it will still be black. Their is allot of oil left in the engine when you drain it. hiding in all sorts of nooks and cranny's.

What I did on one of the oil changes was mix in 1 or 2 liters of Diesel. I ran the engine for 10 mins then drained it then filled it up. Drove around for an hour then drained that and then refilled it. Checked the oil via the oil filter later that night and it was finally clean. But that was after the 4th or 5th oil change.

Back in the day when I serviced my cars myself, I used an engine flush which worked.
 

Captain_Stealth

Well-known member
BeemerFanatic said:
osiris said:
Captain_Stealth said:
Hey guys more updates coming this weekend !!!

This is my oil after I drained it. Took it to some guy around 400km ago and when I drained it as I was gonna remove the sump this is what I found.

Would it be possible for new oil to look like this after 400km
c68bea851fefd817679f03eae3827a59.jpg

a24a43e9e78222be69e62746c5c8c459.jpg

54b2ee67f33b6bae0a6b060423964aa3.jpg

Ran my fingers through the oil sediment and it came out like this.
a18d3af6586c1c5729c031c983a522e3.jpg


So what do u guys think ?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Absolutely! Have a look at my build thread for my z4 and you will see the ordeal I went through with my oil to get it clean. I think it was a good 4 or 5 oil changes within a month!

Draining the oil from your car and putting new oil in and looking at the dip stick which looks clean means nothing. drain that oil after 20 mins of driving and it will still be black. Their is allot of oil left in the engine when you drain it. hiding in all sorts of nooks and cranny's.

What I did on one of the oil changes was mix in 1 or 2 liters of Diesel. I ran the engine for 10 mins then drained it then filled it up. Drove around for an hour then drained that and then refilled it. Checked the oil via the oil filter later that night and it was finally clean. But that was after the 4th or 5th oil change.

Back in the day when I serviced my cars myself, I used an engine flush which worked.

I always do an engine flush after judging the condition of the oil. Surely the macky should have noticed this and contacted me informing me of the condition


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Thought I would post these pics as I was dismantling my other seat. So to dismantle this seat took me under 2 hours with an angle grinder. Chopper and hammer. I only destroyed the frame not the seat components I would be swapping over.

With all the motors these things are so darn heavy

Here is what I found on the drivers side rear seat as I had to dismantle to swap the airbag from the drivers side.

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I cut the airbag out that is it’s canister
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Also those pipes wer connected to these inflatable bags located between the kidney area of the seat


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Nikhil

Honorary ///Member
Yeah some mechanics take zero initiative, personally I would by some cheap oil, 2liters of diesel, drain the current oil add new cheap oil + 1l of diesel, run the engine till warm, drain overnight and repeat again. Then put in some decent quality oil and check the colour in a few 100km
 

Captain_Stealth

Well-known member
Nikhil said:
Yeah some mechanics take zero initiative, personally I would by some cheap oil, 2liters of diesel, drain the current oil add new cheap oil + 1l of diesel, run the engine till warm, drain overnight and repeat again. Then put in some decent quality oil and check the colour in a few 100km

Yip tried that the last time and worked well. Thanks for that

I have decided on swapping out the motor to the 4.3 version. As there were bad vibrations from the flywheel when I first got it and since there are broken bolts holding the sump in I think getting a new motor is my best option. A complete setup comes with 5 wires to connect. It include ecu reprogrammed to run manual gearbox. Wired fuse box. Intake pipe. Airbox. And all wiring. My headers. Flywheel. Adaptor plate clutch will all fit. As in the same series of engines. Might upgrade to the 325i or 330i gearbox while it’s out as I doubt this 120i box is gonna last long lol


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