E46 releaser bearing, crank case vent valve query

[Yuben]

No oil light at all. Would the oil pump fault show up on diagnostics?

 

[moranor@axis]

dont think it is the pump then at all I would not worry about it... check everything on your drive belts

 

[Maljan]

No oil light at all. Would the oil pump fault show up on diagnostics?

One of those faults where things go bang without prior warning, I guess.

Good to know it only happens to 330i track cars. My 530i should be OK. And I have no plans to make a track car out of it. That would be a violation of the E39 mafia code.
:cartel:

 

[akajee]

Look...all I know is my car is a E46 with Vanos or something like that, and its only barely faster than my mother in law on her broom... Other than that its got 137k kms on, and still using the same water pump, and oil pump, and the post was about oil pump on an E46...so I answered :dunno:

Does your mother in law have a nimbus 2000?

:crazylaugh::crazylaugh::crazylaugh::crazylaugh:

 

[Yuben]

Guys after alot of torubleshooting I think I may have isolated what the issue is.
Firstly, it is not the oil pump, water pump or belt pulleys.

The noise that I hear on cold start is the same noise that takes place whenever I switch the car off when in neutral, there is flywheel rattle. Now there is no noise at all when the clutch is engaged and I switch it off.

The day after I bought the car in 2012, I changed the clutch and was advised at that stage that it was not necessary to change the fylwheel:RedNo:

I think that is where the problem is stemming from.

I am thinking that whne the car is cold the releaser bearing(I'm assuming that the clutch has a releaser/thrust bearing:tiptoe is mkaing the noise and soon it goes away.

So my question is: can just the releaser bearing be replaced ? I fitted an OEM clutch at 112000km and now only doing 170000km and can safekly say that the clutch does not get abused.

Was also thinking what about it being the gearbox mounting, but then thought that the noise will be there even in gear or neutral.

So guys, what are your thoughts on this deduction ?
:ty:

 

[Maljan]

It is a lot of work to get the gearbox off. (Duh why am I stating the obvious? Probably because I watched Ed change an E36 gearbox on Wheeler Dealers the other day). So most mechs will tell you to replace everything once that is done. If the clutch plate still looks good, you might get away with just doing the release bearing. Might.

 

[Yuben]

Thanks to Peter for checking out the car. It is definitely the releaser bearing causing the noise which is sort a common occurrence. Good news is that is not major and will not affect normal driving. The clutch is still fine and i will change the bearing at once at the next clutch replacement. I bought the OEM pulleys to replace the Aftermarket ones.

Peter also pointed out that the Aftermarket belt is 5mm longer which causes lesser tension to the belt than the OEM belt.

So I now need to get the OEM belt to go with the OEM pulleys and the rotating parts will be 100% at the next service inthe next. 3000km.

 

[KPM3_30]

Thanks to Peter for checking out the car. It is definitely the releaser bearing causing the noise which is sort a common occurrence. Good news is that is not major and will not affect normal driving. The clutch is still fine and i will change the bearing at once at the next clutch replacement. I bought the OEM pulleys to replace the Aftermarket ones.

Peter also pointed out that the Aftermarket belt is 5mm longer which causes lesser tension to the belt than the OEM belt.

So I now need to get the OEM belt to go with the OEM pulleys and the rotating parts will be 100% at the next service inthe next. 3000km.

Good result! Did you purchase all of the pulleys from BMW? What did that set you back by the way? I need to sort out my pulley as it is making an irritating ticking sound.

 

[Yuben]

I paid R1070 for the 3 but got a 25% discount :rollsmile:

 

[KPM3_30]

I paid R1070 for the 3 but got a 25% discount :rollsmile:

That is damn cheap. What are the pulleys again? I'm gonna call my dealership :rollsmile:

 

[LPM320]

Thanks to Peter for checking out the car. It is definitely the releaser bearing causing the noise which is sort a common occurrence. Good news is that is not major and will not affect normal driving. The clutch is still fine and i will change the bearing at once at the next clutch replacement. I bought the OEM pulleys to replace the Aftermarket ones.

Peter also pointed out that the Aftermarket belt is 5mm longer which causes lesser tension to the belt than the OEM belt.

So I now need to get the OEM belt to go with the OEM pulleys and the rotating parts will be 100% at the next service inthe next. 3000km.

When you buy a new clutch kit, it comes with a releaser bearing. If you purchased a reputable kit, then its unlikely that the releaser bearing is giving up with only +- 60 000km on it, unless it was a defective bearing.

Releaser bearing noise is very distinct, and only goes away when the clutch pedal is depressed, at all other times at idle, you will hear the bearing spinning noisily away.

It is advised that the Dual mass flywheel be replaced with every clutch replacement as it contains a rubber coupling/damper and is thus considered a wearing part. A dual mass flywheel cannot really be skimmed when heat spots are present, which adds to the necessity of replacing the flywheel.

A short knocking noise when switching the vehicle off while NOT depressing the clutch pedal is indicative of a worn flywheel.

 

[444YYY]

A 'glug glug' noise when switching off, car in neutral clutch released, is the 2 shafts on the gearbox rotating freely.. Common on manual BMW's. Nothing to worry about!

 

[Yuben]

Thanks to Peter for checking out the car. It is definitely the releaser bearing causing the noise which is sort a common occurrence. Good news is that is not major and will not affect normal driving. The clutch is still fine and i will change the bearing at once at the next clutch replacement. I bought the OEM pulleys to replace the Aftermarket ones.

Peter also pointed out that the Aftermarket belt is 5mm longer which causes lesser tension to the belt than the OEM belt.

So I now need to get the OEM belt to go with the OEM pulleys and the rotating parts will be 100% at the next service inthe next. 3000km.

When you buy a new clutch kit, it comes with a releaser bearing. If you purchased a reputable kit, then its unlikely that the releaser bearing is giving up with only +- 60 000km on it, unless it was a defective bearing.

Releaser bearing noise is very distinct, and only goes away when the clutch pedal is depressed, at all other times at idle, you will hear the bearing spinning noisily away.

It is advised that the Dual mass flywheel be replaced with every clutch replacement as it contains a rubber coupling/damper and is thus considered a wearing part. A dual mass flywheel cannot really be skimmed when heat spots are present, which adds to the necessity of replacing the flywheel.

A short knocking noise when switching the vehicle off while NOT depressing the clutch pedal is indicative of a worn flywheel.

In terms of the kit being reputable, it was bought from BMW.

 

[Yuben]

ok Guys, the crank case vent valve drain pipe had a huge crack, resulting in the car sucking in unmetered air, resulting in a rough idle of cold start. And the releaser bearing only makes the noise on cold start.

What surpirses me now, is that the releaser bearing has gone quiet ever since the crank case vent valve drain pipe was replaced.

No I know the 2 are not related, but I cant understand how this is possible for the noise to just go away.

Any takers ?

I'm not complaining as the 330 is now smooth and pulls like a train!

 

[Yuben]

:fencelook: anyone.?.

 

[moranor@axis]

the roughness of the engine was transmitting to the flywheel causing the noise this is what I would guess

 

[Spiro]

not sure on this one....


:sorry:

 

[Gizmo]

the roughness of the engine was transmitting to the flywheel causing the noise this is what I would guess

Nail on head.