E46 330i 2004 Engine rattle on cold start and misfire

[menace_spv]

***update 30.05.16***
so after cleaning the MAF it made no difference. idle still rough and car on cold start has a engine rattle :blueCry:
going to this evening remove and clean the ICV. last resort before taking it in and replacing the MAF AND ICV.
i have been driving the car without the MAF plugged in and the car drives perfectly without it plugged in?!?
question; why use the MAF at all if car drive fine ....down side to leaving unplugged indefinitely? would anyone agree replacing MAF AND ICV if clean does not work?

i doubt its your ICV.. because the car seems to idle fine when the MAF is unplugged right?

the car will run in a "safety" map on the ECU when you uplug the MAF... so your fuel economy will suffer big time. if im not mistaken, the map runs super rich.. so things like spark plugs will suffer down the line too...

good luck with this.. im sure your MAF is the cause.. but as the other guys have mentioned, take it to someone who can diagnose it properly to make sure. it can be an expensive part.

yes car runs perfectly when MAF is unplugged.

---

so i removed and cleaned the ICV (DIY) and i made no difference. i still have the cold start issue and the idle is little better however it still misses a beat here and there. car actually runs better now after all the cleaning, seems to have more power and runs nicer. i have had the MAF unplugged for half a tank and i am getting about 1.3 liter extra per 100km. i can live with that extra consumption but the car feels more powerful when the MAF is plugged in. so i rather find the problem and fix so i can have that addtional power "gain"
so i will keep fighting this fight until i get an answer/solution or run our of funds. i am least sleep easier at night knowing that the forum is here and i really do appreciate all the time and advise everyone has given me. if anyone has a working MAF and is willing to let me test, please drop me a line. thank you all.

 

[kilotango]

hmmm i'd love to help, but im across the border unfortunately

im not sure if the m54b30 maf is compatible with the 328, or the 325 (i doubt it)....however post up your location and im sure theres someone near you with a 330 who can help from this forum

 

[Fordkoppie]

The 3.0 uses a unique MAF. But you can use any one from the following cars:

e39 530i
e36 Z3 3.0i
e53 X5 3.0i

Not really something one wants to read, but this is another possibility.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1400744-Cold-start-misfire-solved-(finally

I dont really think its that, because IMO the car would do the same with the MAF unplugged as well if there was something wrong with the lifters

 

[Cartlyn]

Good morning,

From my experience, do not buy a MAF unless you have tried a working MAF from another vehicle and you have indeed confirmed that after trying another MAF your problems went away, if you do not have a MAF to swap and test then eventually like me you may have no other option but to replace the MAF and hope the problems go away, the other thing i have noticed is that a faulty MAF may not throw a MAF related code- i have experienced this on my e46, unplugging the MAF will cause the car to run rich and it will mask certain vacuum leaks that may be the cause of you problems...hope this helps

 

[menace_spv]

hmmm i'd love to help, but im across the border unfortunately

im not sure if the m54b30 maf is compatible with the 328, or the 325 (i doubt it)....however post up your location and im sure theres someone near you with a 330 who can help from this forum

location in CAPE TOWN. milnerton but will to take a drive to meet up with anyone raise:

---

The 3.0 uses a unique MAF. But you can use any one from the following cars:

e39 530i
e36 Z3 3.0i
e53 X5 3.0i

Not really something one wants to read, but this is another possibility.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1400744-Cold-start-misfire-solved-(finally

I dont really think its that, because IMO the car would do the same with the MAF unplugged as well if there was something wrong with the lifters

interesting read, however i am also in agreement that this might not be the same situation im in as the car drive fine when MAF is unplugged. i hope it is not the same as this dude.

 

[VirgulateLeek]

I was browsing Google checking for threads to a similar issue when I stumbled across this one. So I registered to try and help. Anyways My car is 2003 330i Auto and has a similar issue however the misfire is only for about 30 seconds after a dead cold start.

My reason for posting though is I thought I'd share the following link with you in case you haven't come across it as yet. It addresses the most likely causes of misfires.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

I hope you're able to resolve your issue.

 

[Blue Shirt]

For how long does the car misfire after a cold start?

My wife's X3 (M54 engine) once had a misfire on a warm start that was caused by a leaking injector. However, cold starts and hot starts were fine, the misfire only occured when doing a warm start when the car has been driven and shut off for half an hour or so. The leaky injector then dripped into the cylinder until the fuel pressure.

I am not suggesting that you have a leaking injector, but it is worth checking out the injector values with INPA or other diagnostic software to see if the ecu is perhaps trying to adjust for an injector that is not cooperating when cold.

 

[Fordkoppie]

I have finally isolated the engine rattle on cold start and misfire issue on my 330i.:excited:

The "vent hose" that returns to the dipstick was perforated from age, so it was sucking in unmetered air.

But if any of the items in this picture is broken, it will cause a vacuum leak.

To test - I blocked the "connecting line" and the "return pipe" where it connects to the intake manifold, and the car runs perfect.

 

[menace_spv]

I have finally isolated the engine rattle on cold start and misfire issue on my 330i.:excited:

The "vent hose" that returns to the dipstick was perforated from age, so it was sucking in unmetered air.

But if any of the items in this picture is broken, it will cause a vacuum leak.

To test - I blocked the "connecting line" and the "return pipe" where it connects to the intake manifold, and the car runs perfect.

super awesome. nice one. well played. raise:
ill check later on mine for broken pipes. i also monitored mine over the last period and found that when my car parks outside and the air is colder there is no engine rattle from cold start, but when car parks in the garage i get the rattle.

 

[JohnLod]

I have finally isolated the engine rattle on cold start and misfire issue on my 330i.:excited:

The "vent hose" that returns to the dipstick was perforated from age, so it was sucking in unmetered air.

But if any of the items in this picture is broken, it will cause a vacuum leak.

To test - I blocked the "connecting line" and the "return pipe" where it connects to the intake manifold, and the car runs perfect.

super awesome. nice one. well played. raise:
ill check later on mine for broken pipes. i also monitored mine over the last period and found that when my car parks outside and the air is colder there is no engine rattle from cold start, but when car parks in the garage i get the rattle.

Very nice feed back, thank you.

 

[Fordkoppie]

John - As a matter of interest..

Would you please send me a PM with prices for the following parts:

PRESSURE REGULATING VALVE (1x) 11617501566

Connecting line (1x) 11617504535

Vent hose (1x) 11157532649

Return pipe (1x) 11617504536

Cap D=3,5MM (2x) 11611437560

Dipstick (1x) 11431436293

O-ring 19,5X3 (1x) 11431740045


PROFILE-GASKET D=79,5MM (1x) 13547504729

And also a separate quote to fit them if you dont mind.
Thanks a lot!

 

[Bazza]

So rough idle gone????

 

[individj]

very informative thank you

 

[Fordkoppie]

So rough idle gone????

Yes

 

[Bazza]

:clapper:

So rough idle gone????

Yes

 

[menace_spv]

I have finally isolated the engine rattle on cold start and misfire issue on my 330i.:excited:

The "vent hose" that returns to the dipstick was perforated from age, so it was sucking in unmetered air.

But if any of the items in this picture is broken, it will cause a vacuum leak.

To test - I blocked the "connecting line" and the "return pipe" where it connects to the intake manifold, and the car runs perfect.

so i finally got this checked out and striped, my bad for taking so long but i just managed the issue for that time being.

the vent hose going to the sump was broken. fitted new pipe and the rattle has completely gone. this is the solution to this specific problem i can also now confirm. thank you FORDKOPPIE you are at master level. :ty:

 

[Gizmo]

3 out of 5 M54 powered cars that visit me have a perished vent hose. I pre-cut a bunch of replacement hoses using reinforced hydraulic hose which will way outlast the OEM replacement hose.