E39 M54 Headjob

[Mikkie]

I need some assistance with finding parts, tools and advice in general for redoing my M54 head.

The head gasket is starting to pump some combustion gas into the coolant and needs to be replaced. The root cause of this was probably some mild overheating due to the infamous cooling system failure.

I dont really want to just send the car off to a mechanic. I have done a few engines in the past with great success, but they were a lot simpler than the M54. Besides, its an act of love. I love the E39 body and the M54 is ok, could have done with more power though.. So I want to fix it right myself (at least the easy parts).

So I have a few questions:
1. Where can I buy quality parts except from the dealer
2. Where can I find special tools (even home made) to rent
3. A good engineering shop to overhaul the head (how about cylinderhead services in Pta)
4. I found a huge amount of sludge in the head (not water sludge, just general sludge) after removing the cover. I can only imagine that the bottom part of the engine looks the same. What is the best method to clear the gunk out?

you expert advice would be appreciated.

 

[Legacy]

Alert Engine Spares sells Victor Reinz gasket sets (includes headgasket). VR is the OEM manufacturer for the gaskets so they are tops. There is one in Church street in PTA if you are close.


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[Mikkie]

Ah, yes, bought a gasket set for my warhorse ('97 Nissan Patrol) from them. Good to know the OEM name. Thanks.

Alert Engine Spares sells Victor Reinz gasket sets (includes headgasket). VR is the OEM manufacturer for the gaskets so they are tops. There is one in Church street in PTA if you are close.


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[Raybimmer]

Ok if you are able it would be a engine strip and send the block to the Motor engineers , they clean it like new .
There is a lot to strip , take photos and label things .
Replace water pump , thermostat and maybe viscous unit . Check hoses and radiator - maybe have it flushed/cleaned at silverton Radiators etc .
Check bemows for spares , they should also have good contacts for head work .
good luck .

 

[Mikkie]

Thanks for the reply. The waterpump, thermostat, radiator, aux tank, and main hoses have been replaced. This Visco is still original. What is the failure mode of the visco?

When you say "strip and send the block", did you mean the whole engine or just the head?

Ivor

Ok if you are able it would be a engine strip and send the block to the Motor engineers , they clean it like new .
There is a lot to strip , take photos and label things .
Replace water pump , thermostat and maybe viscous unit . Check hoses and radiator - maybe have it flushed/cleaned at silverton Radiators etc .
Check bemows for spares , they should also have good contacts for head work .
good luck .

 

[Fordkoppie]

Depending on how much it overheated, the chances of pulling the threads out of the block are quite possible (it becomes brittle when severely heated). This means block out and fitting inserts into the block for the headbolts.
I am not sure about the M54, but most BMWs have stretch head bolts, so you have to replace those as well.

 

[Mikkie]

Yip, M54 = stretch bolts

My plan of action is to:
1. loosed head bolts and attempt a retorque, if it holds I continue with just head job, if it does'nt, I have to reconsider.
2. If Torque ok, get head off and checked/reconditioned if possible.
3. Do all other bits and pieces like the Vanos, CCV etc.
4. Put together and pray.

Depending on how much it overheated, the chances of pulling the threads out of the block are quite possible (it becomes brittle when severely heated). This means block out and fitting inserts into the block for the headbolts.
I am not sure about the M54, but most BMWs have stretch head bolts, so you have to replace those as well.

 

[Mikkie]

Just phoned BMW Menlyn spares to check if they have the Torx E12 available. They told me that they do not sell ANY special tools! Is this normal?


:thumbdo:

Where else to get???

Yip, M54 = stretch bolts

My plan of action is to:
1. loosed head bolts and attempt a retorque, if it holds I continue with just head job, if it does'nt, I have to reconsider.
2. If Torque ok, get head off and checked/reconditioned if possible.
3. Do all other bits and pieces like the Vanos, CCV etc.
4. Put together and pray.

Depending on how much it overheated, the chances of pulling the threads out of the block are quite possible (it becomes brittle when severely heated). This means block out and fitting inserts into the block for the headbolts.
I am not sure about the M54, but most BMWs have stretch head bolts, so you have to replace those as well.

 

[kabal]

http://www.tools24.co.za/torx-socket-12dr-e12-female

http://mdtools.co.za/index.php/vmch...-SOCKET-3/8-SQ-DR/Detailed-product-flyer.html

 

[Mikkie]

kabal, please excuse my ignorance, but those sockets are short and a longer elongated(thin shaft) socket is needed.

Are you suggesting this 3/8" drive model with an extension to get past the cams? Will then of course also need a 3/8 to 1/2 conversion to get onto my torquewrench.

http://www.tools24.co.za/torx-socket-12dr-e12-female

http://mdtools.co.za/index.php/vmch...-SOCKET-3/8-SQ-DR/Detailed-product-flyer.html

 

[Raybimmer]

You can get most sockets loose , check Kennedy , Gedore etc. on the net .
you can strip the motor and send the block in , the cleaning done may not be worth the effort though .
Maybe pm Minimike about a sludge removing agent , better than all the labour .
Good luck .

 

[A.C.SCHNITZER]

I got my Torx socket set from autozone for R185 including the extension, they are AmPro Brand, the are 3/8 as 1/2 won't fit in the head