E39 M5 maf gone bad

[ANiMOSiTY]

but does it sound like the maf is the problem?

and i got original bosch ones with the 029 part no at end without the tubes.....like the ones sold at www.bimmerzone.com

what ya think

Yes, it could be the MAFs but it could also be CPSes, blocked fuel filter etc etc
Get the fault codes checked first - then take it from there.
Although it does sound like MAFs to me.

As for those MAFs, f the part number is the same as the original, and it says Bosch on it - chances are that it's the genuine original part.
Remember, Bosch makes MAFs for most of the vehicles you see on the road, so chances are pretty good that its shared with another vehicle.

 

[SirSparky]

but does it sound like the maf is the problem?

and i got original bosch ones with the 029 part no at end without the tubes.....like the ones sold at www.bimmerzone.com

what ya think

Yes, it could be the MAFs but it could also be CPSes, blocked fuel filter etc etc
Get the fault codes checked first - then take it from there.
Although it does sound like MAFs to me.

As for those MAFs, f the part number is the same as the original, and it says Bosch on it - chances are that it's the genuine original part.
Remember, Bosch makes MAFs for most of the vehicles you see on the road, so chances are pretty good that its shared with another vehicle.

ive checked the part no on my maf and its the same no that ive ordered

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another thing...if it was the cps then the car would do it all the time correct?it only does it when the engine is nice and warm....and this only happened a day after i cleaned my mafs......

i phoned up bmw to get history of the car...they have replaced only one maf at 90 000km...the other one was kept in....so this is highly possible.the car has 151 000 kms on the clock now

 

[ANiMOSiTY]

but does it sound like the maf is the problem?

and i got original bosch ones with the 029 part no at end without the tubes.....like the ones sold at www.bimmerzone.com

what ya think

Yes, it could be the MAFs but it could also be CPSes, blocked fuel filter etc etc
Get the fault codes checked first - then take it from there.
Although it does sound like MAFs to me.

As for those MAFs, f the part number is the same as the original, and it says Bosch on it - chances are that it's the genuine original part.
Remember, Bosch makes MAFs for most of the vehicles you see on the road, so chances are pretty good that its shared with another vehicle.

ive checked the part no on my maf and its the same no that ive ordered

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another thing...if it was the cps then the car would do it all the time correct?it only does it when the engine is nice and warm....and this only happened a day after i cleaned my mafs......

i phoned up bmw to get history of the car...they have replaced only one maf at 90 000km...the other one was kept in....so this is highly possible.the car has 151 000 kms on the clock now

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Dude, get the fault codes read.
MAF problems usually don't cause the DME to log a fault code until it's VERY bad.

 

[BimmerMan]

Hey SirSparky

I am with Animosity on this one. Have the cars codes read by someone and then go from there. If you take it to someone with GT1 computer, they will be able to pull live data off the MAF aswell, which should point to it being faulty or not.

Its pretty much guess work without any codes...

 

[SirSparky]

update.....

i took the car for spin to get her up to temp....switched off for 5 mins....she wouldnt start.....removed suspected faulty maf....cooled it down with cold air...plugged it back in....she started first time.....looks like only when the maf gets hot that it wont work!

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ive taken the voltage of the mafs

pin 3+5 voltage left side is 1.06 and right side is 1.07/1.08
pin 3+4 for both sides is 5.03


what does this mean?

before u guys tell me get the codes.....i can only get them read next week......

 

[ANiMOSiTY]

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...788-how-test-mafs-yourself-how-mafs-work.html

MAF TESTING - DIRECT VOLTAGE METHOD
********************************

0. Remove tie-wraps holding wire protection tubing in place at the MAF connectors. Pull tube back and find the applicable wires. Connect to these using insulation piercing needle-and-hook type test leads(or just plain needle type test leads if you don´t mind risking to prick yourself).

Make ceratin to have the mulitmeter set to DC volts and that you have not connected to the AMPs connectors on it. (The signals you are connecting to go straight to the DME so be careful not to short-circit anything.)

1. Ignition on
2. Engine not running
3. On each MAF measure DC voltage between
pin 3 (ground, brown wire) and pin 5 (signal, yellow wire)
4. Reading should be 1.000 +- 0.040 V. The closer to 1.000 V the better. the dirtier the MAF the higher the voltage will be.
5. If reading in step 4 is off by more than 0.020 V then measure voltage between pin 3 and pin 4 (+5V reference from DME, yellow/green wire). This reading should be 5.000 +- 0.200 V.
6. If not check the battery voltage, and connect a charger if needed and redo the tests.

7. Put the tubing back in place and secure it with new black 2.5 mm wide tie-wraps. (Make sure you have narrow enough tie-wraps to fit on hand before cutting the old ones.) To avoid sharp edges, after the tie-wraps are in place cut the excess with a flush (one side only beveled) pair of cutting pliers.

If you don´t have that kind of cutters, just cut the tie-wraps with any sharp cutter and the file the sharp corners. Only takes a minute, and might save some of your blood next time you do something in that area on the engine compartment.

The reading in step 4 should be exactly 1/5 of the reading in step 5.

If this procedure gives a reading in step 4 that is outside tolerance the MAF is definitely contaminated or otherwise damaged.

 

[SirSparky]

was never good at maths....thats exactly the test i did...what they mean about 1/5 of the reading?
so by my results my mafs are fuct?

 

[SirSparky]

all righty then peeps.....got my mafs this morning....installed them along with nice clean air filters and pollen filters......
did the usual to get the car up to temp.......HALLELUJA......the car she is now rights.....pulls like a mudda fcker and in the rain nogals...disconected the batt for 30 min aswell just to reset the ecu

 

[Jandre]

Good stuff SS. No more M2.5 then. The mighty M5 she is back.

 

[SirSparky]

hell yeah....

 

[Nic_s]

"Keep Rollin' Rollin' Rollin'..." :thumbsup:

 

[ANiMOSiTY]

Nice!
Do us a favour, and do the MAF test in 2nd gear some time when its safe and not raining.

 

[SirSparky]

will do ani.....

drove the car this morning....she is pulling like a train YO

 

[clutchplate]

have u done any 0-100 times ? or 1/4mile times ?

 

[SirSparky]

not yet.i first wanna service my car the i shall do it

 

[BimmerMan]

...disconected the batt for 30 min aswell just to reset the ecu

Hi Sirsparky

Just disconnecting the battery will not reset the ECU. The E39 uses non-volatile memory to store the adaptations. You either need to visit the dealer or find someone with Carsoft to reset those adaptations...

 

[SirSparky]

the car still pulls lekka....i have to take it in to get the codes cleared anyways....i think it gonna cost me like 150 bucs....

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by the way bimmerman...where can i get hold of a pdf version of either tis manual or bentley for my e39 m5?

 

[BimmerMan]

the car still pulls lekka....i have to take it in to get the codes cleared anyways....i think it gonna cost me like 150 bucs....

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by the way bimmerman...where can i get hold of a pdf version of either tis manual or bentley for my e39 m5?

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TIS...you would either have to order it off Ebay or make friends with a parts guy at BMW, who will let you loan their CD to install it on your PC...

Bentley...they did not make a Bentley manual for the E39 M5 specifically. You would have to find a Bentley manual for the E39. Some of the things will be shared, but not the engine and transmission etc...

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Hi SS

I have sent you a PM with the Bentley download link...

 

[SirSparky]

thanks meneer