-
Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
E39 BMW530i repairs
- Thread starter sclass
- Start date
sclass
New member
Another thing,
the fan that kicks in (auxiliary?) when the car is idling or in slow moving traffic doesn't seem to be coming on the temp starts to go up, scare the hell out of me yesterday :shocked:...I immediately turned on the heater to full (32deg) and fan on full speed and gauge when right back down to half. In normal driving (60/80kph) the needle stays put half way. There seemed to be quite a bit of air in the cooling system, I bled her after.
I'm yet to fit a new thermostat, don't know as to the current state of my current one. I've been told to remove it for now just in case :dunno:?
Basically the car doesn't like to sit still. Am I right about the fan or do I have bigger things to worry about?
Am taking the car back in tomorrow though.
the fan that kicks in (auxiliary?) when the car is idling or in slow moving traffic doesn't seem to be coming on the temp starts to go up, scare the hell out of me yesterday :shocked:...I immediately turned on the heater to full (32deg) and fan on full speed and gauge when right back down to half. In normal driving (60/80kph) the needle stays put half way. There seemed to be quite a bit of air in the cooling system, I bled her after.
I'm yet to fit a new thermostat, don't know as to the current state of my current one. I've been told to remove it for now just in case :dunno:?
Basically the car doesn't like to sit still. Am I right about the fan or do I have bigger things to worry about?
Am taking the car back in tomorrow though.
sclass
New member
Yes, I replaced the waterpump with new one. I'm really suspecting the aux fan because when I got the car last week actually thought the fan to be overactive kicking in quite frequently. Now, nothing...and also the other problem is air in the cooling system. I have to replace the top radiator hose (the one leading to the thermo), it has a pinhole.
Was on other forums and they talk of a aux fan clutch, are you referring to the same thing with the coupling?
Was on other forums and they talk of a aux fan clutch, are you referring to the same thing with the coupling?
sclass
New member
Turns out I've got water leaks in the expansion tank AND at the bleed screw on the top radiator hose (from the engine). So I need to make sure the water's always topped up. Maybe I should just redo the whole cooling system once and for all...
But what does the clutch fan need to activate? It seems like if there's enough water circulating everythings fine but if not...eish...
As for my regenerating liver, that's seriously going to limit my alcohol intake...
But what does the clutch fan need to activate? It seems like if there's enough water circulating everythings fine but if not...eish...
As for my regenerating liver, that's seriously going to limit my alcohol intake...
sclass
New member
Ok so I got the top radiator hose (apparently off an E46 328i or 330i??) from a good samaritan...just need a new bleed screw and rubber seal...
Here's a new one...is there any reason why I'd suddenly lose brake pressure? I didn't use the car today, just took it out of the garage to wash it, but I can't hold the car still when it's in drive :dropjaw:...now what :banghead:
Here's a new one...is there any reason why I'd suddenly lose brake pressure? I didn't use the car today, just took it out of the garage to wash it, but I can't hold the car still when it's in drive :dropjaw:...now what :banghead:
zaleonardz
Well-known member
Are you referring to the brakes or the hand brake.
You could have a vacuum leak from all of the fiddling, but its more then likely that if the peddle is fading, that you would need to do a seal kit on the master cylinder.
Explain more, and I may be able to guide you.
You could have a vacuum leak from all of the fiddling, but its more then likely that if the peddle is fading, that you would need to do a seal kit on the master cylinder.
Explain more, and I may be able to guide you.
sclass
New member
Wsup Zaleonardz :thumbsup:
It's the brakes (not handbrake). And what do you know, took the car out of the garage just to see and the brakes are fine :thinking:...The brake pedal isn't soft or going to the floor though, it still feels 'meaty' but I just could bearly hold the car stationery in drive yesterday. I didn't have the guts to drive up and down my street today though...
As for the fiddling maybe your right, do you think we inadvertently dislodge something or is it more indicative of wear or something?
Question; if I depress the brake pedal with the car off and then start the engine, should the pedal not slightly soften and go to the floor a tad?
It's the brakes (not handbrake). And what do you know, took the car out of the garage just to see and the brakes are fine :thinking:...The brake pedal isn't soft or going to the floor though, it still feels 'meaty' but I just could bearly hold the car stationery in drive yesterday. I didn't have the guts to drive up and down my street today though...
As for the fiddling maybe your right, do you think we inadvertently dislodge something or is it more indicative of wear or something?
Question; if I depress the brake pedal with the car off and then start the engine, should the pedal not slightly soften and go to the floor a tad?
zaleonardz
Well-known member
Your brakes are vacuum assisted, meaning that you use the vacuum stored in the brake booster to help you push they hydraulic fluid through to each caliper. The vacuum booster sits between the peddle and the master cylinder, with the master cylinder bolted onto the booster.
Try this test for sure.
With the car off, pump the peddle 10 to 15 times as hard as you can. The peddle should be rock hard and difficualt to push,
WHen you then start the car, the peddle should be signifcantly softer on push for the first brake, and should feel like normal, this should be instant with a start, if it does not do this, it means you either have a serious leak in the vacuum pipe going to the brake booster, or your brake booster is stuffed, but seeing though you have been messing round in there, I suspect its a vacuum leak.
However, your engine should not be as smooth as usual with a vacuum leak.
Try this test for sure.
With the car off, pump the peddle 10 to 15 times as hard as you can. The peddle should be rock hard and difficualt to push,
WHen you then start the car, the peddle should be signifcantly softer on push for the first brake, and should feel like normal, this should be instant with a start, if it does not do this, it means you either have a serious leak in the vacuum pipe going to the brake booster, or your brake booster is stuffed, but seeing though you have been messing round in there, I suspect its a vacuum leak.
However, your engine should not be as smooth as usual with a vacuum leak.
sclass
New member
Mo' money (spent) mo' problems...
Ok car still hesitates, does so intermittently though but when its bad its really bad - could put away from a Tazz if my life depended on it...Otherwise the car only responds to light throttle inputs, anything more and engine rolls over and dies...
I didn't want to just go out and buy an AFM unnecessarily so I got someone else to do basic checks. Coils, plugs, loose hoses, airfilter. Turns out plugs haven't been changed :nono: and there's a hissing sound coming from somewhere post-AFM. I strongly suspect I have a vacuum leak somewhere, maybe a hose, or PVC. Some people have suggested dirty injectors (would that cause hard starting?) and bad fuel pump but I think these are further down the list of checks.
Does anyone know the going rate for a PVC?
Ok car still hesitates, does so intermittently though but when its bad its really bad - could put away from a Tazz if my life depended on it...Otherwise the car only responds to light throttle inputs, anything more and engine rolls over and dies...
I didn't want to just go out and buy an AFM unnecessarily so I got someone else to do basic checks. Coils, plugs, loose hoses, airfilter. Turns out plugs haven't been changed :nono: and there's a hissing sound coming from somewhere post-AFM. I strongly suspect I have a vacuum leak somewhere, maybe a hose, or PVC. Some people have suggested dirty injectors (would that cause hard starting?) and bad fuel pump but I think these are further down the list of checks.
Does anyone know the going rate for a PVC?
J
Jandre
Guest
A new pcv for the e36 318i is around R700,00 from the dealership. I picked up a good 2nd hand one for R350.00
Bossman
Member
I second all that you suggest, do not!! F , around with other filters, unless you can prove that the dust is stopped as well as the stock filter and also flows enough, I used a Donaldson tractor filter on my rear mounted E46 325i to make sure the dust is kept out! Check out the Donaldson specs, you will be surprised at the amount of engineering really goes into a filter!!clutchplate said:HAHAHA !! RGM charges R 17,000 for exhaust,unichip and a filter ? and 14K if cats are removed ?
RGM is a fk'ing criminal !! and I say that with confidence ..
you can have this exact same thing done at noiseboys for under 8K.
and if I can HIGHLY suggest it, DO NOT put an aftermarket filter in your car, all it does is make your oil dirtier quicker and make your engine parts wear more. stick with the stock OEM paper filter ! its just really not a worthy mod at all.
for 17K you can take your heads of, bore the cylinders bigger and fit bigger pistons, and get a REAL power increase, might even squeze a port&polish in there...
sclass
New member
Question; If I unscrew the oil cap will the engine's running should there be a very noticeable change in the idle and smoothness (almost no change on mine)? And if I then cover the oil cap opening with my hand how strong of a vacuum suction should I feel (not alot on mine)? PCV/CCV issue yes/no? And would PCV/CCV account for the whooshing/sucking sound when lightly prodding accelerator at idle? :dunno:
Ok that was 4 questions
Ok that was 4 questions
sclass
New member
Hi everyone,
It's been a while! I've trying to regenerate my liver...
Was at the stealers yesterday, this was the damage;
Viscous fan - R2,070
Radiator cap - R137 :dropjaw:
Radiator bleed screws (x2) - R74:dropjaw:
Oil Seperator Valve (PCV/CCV) - R607
OSV/PCV/CCV vent hoses (x4) - R1,200
BMW didn't have everything in stock promised to deliver on Wednesday. Should have got an oil filter (R225) too but eish...and a new fan shroud (R895)...
Yah neh...
It's been a while! I've trying to regenerate my liver
...Was at the stealers yesterday, this was the damage;
Viscous fan - R2,070
Radiator cap - R137 :dropjaw:
Radiator bleed screws (x2) - R74:dropjaw:
Oil Seperator Valve (PCV/CCV) - R607
OSV/PCV/CCV vent hoses (x4) - R1,200
BMW didn't have everything in stock promised to deliver on Wednesday. Should have got an oil filter (R225) too but eish...and a new fan shroud (R895)...
Yah neh...
Similar threads
