E39 BMW530i repairs

[sclass]

Howzit fellas,

Car's being sprayed next week, couldn't resist the temptation to gun it up and down my street...engine feels GREAT but...temp gauge went flying for the red zone, radiator showing no signs of leakage. Now what?

On another note the steering feels fine (lock to lock no problem, no play) although there's an odd sound that seems to be emanating from the control arm or steering rack (on the accident side) when turning. Any ideas? Someone suggested getting a new rack end?

Need knew shocks too, far too much dive/pitch on braking/accelerating.

Saga continues...

 

[netercol]

could be an airlock in your water system.. did you bleed all the bleeding nipples?

 

[sclass]

Netercol you might be on to something there, I heard that suggestion as well...will get that checked next week.

---

Guys I really want to get that M5 bodykit, where can I look even if it's second hand?

 

[Raybimmer]

Jack front end up , support on two axle stands and let someone turn steering while you listen ( also " ruk en pluk ") underneath . Grab wheel at twelve and six o'clock ,try move wheel-any play top to bottom indicates wheel bearing play .
Wheel bearings normally replaced in pairs due to long lives between replacement .
Stealers recommend replacing control arms in pairs , IMHO these can be replaced as funds allow .
Have alignment fixed before replacing shocks .

 

[sclass]

Funny you should say that Ray, as soon as I replaced the tie-rod end I was so paranoid about the accident-damaged side that the 1st thing I did was that 12 - 6 o'clock test - slight play. And just to be sure I did the same on the opposite wheel - rock solid. But surely this isn't what's causing the sounds?

Alignment before shocks hey? That was going to happen by default anyway (funds!!), but any particular reason why?

I have to say this, I know all of y'all in 530ds can kick my ass but I'm so glad I went petrol, that straight six is GLORIOUS!!! I'm in love!!

As you were...

 

[sclass]

Tried to bleed the radiator this weekend, turns out it was almost bone-dry...anyway bled it successfully but, the thermostat seems to be working intermittently...Sometimes the engine idles and the needle gets halfway between blue/red and then the fan comes on, other times it doesn't kick in (thermostat?) and the needle flies to the redzone? Unfortunately after we had let the engine run for a long time (+/- 40mins) and heard the fan kick in and out we'd stopped paying attention, and what do you know; she's boiling over (red light on...), immediately turned off the engine and re-bled the radiator. Started her up again after a while and the need was pegged half way. Mechanic told me to replace the thermostat with a lower temperature threshold. What do you guys think? I'm paranoid now cause when I started her up this morning I could swear there's a low frequency rumble on start-up, a brief period of rough idling (4-5 seconds) before she settles down and runs smoothly.

What do you guys think, problems, or is it just my paranoia?????

 

[zaleonardz]

In what condition is the impellers on your waterpump ?

 

[P1000]

Yeah, replace the waterpump and thermostat. AFAIK, the thermostat is the electronic type (with mechanical failsafe), but earlier models came with a mechanical only one, so I would not suggest replacing it with anything but the correct part. If the car stood for a long time without water, both those units will fail soon, if they haven't already. Remember to post more pics, esp after respray.

 

[sclass]

Was going to replace waterpump anyway as per Zaleonardz advice, was kind of hoping I could put that off a little bit. This new development's (pump + thermo) going to cost me close on two grand (unbudgetted for this month) at the stealers...oh well...

Sprayed the car today will have pix soon! What can I use to bring the sparkle back to my rims?

Later!

 

[zaleonardz]

Bemows dude..

they should have new items available at quarter to half of the dealer price.

DO NOT COOK THAT HEAD, you will be sorry...

Good luck man, cant wait for the pics

 

[StK]

As has been said previously it sounds like the waterpump has had it.......

Here's a useful tried and tested bleed procedure for BMW's once you've replaced the waterpump :thumbsup:

How to bleed the cooling system.
1.Jack the front of the vehicle up onto stands as high as possible,
2.Turn the ignition on,engine off,heater on fan setting 1 and temperature fully hot,
3.Remove the rad cap/expansion cap,remove the bleed screw from the radiator and IF you have them the bleed screw(s) from the thermostat housing/top hose, return pipe or EGR thermostat.
4.Fill the radiator up and keep pouring till there are no more air bubbles coming out from the bleeds, using a funnel that fits tight in the radiator neck and filling it full of water will help push any troublesome air out, when good you can then install the bleeds and tighten down(don't snap them),ensure the rubber O-rings/seals are still on the screws/on the bleed holes.
5.Suck some water out so it's not full to the brim, replace the cap and then start the car. Run her up and check for heat from the vents when warm and check if over heating still persists. You may have to bleed troublesome cars twice(but rare).
6.If all is good then check the water level again in the morning when cool.

 

[sclass]

Wsup fellas,

Zaleonadz, as vital as the cooling system integrity is on beemers, should I not be going for stealer parts? Or are bemows offering quality that's on par? I was prepared bite the bullet on this one!

Stk, sheesh on your procedure list we probably only did 1 or 2 things right!! Anyway I'll replace the needed parts and try again.

Peace!

 

[sclass]

Zaleonardz, how will I know if I've cooked the head?

Also, could that low engine rumble on ignition be caused by the sludge that was once my oil??

 

[sclass]

POOF GOES THE FIVER...

It's official, blown gasket, that's why it's overheating...just hope that head isn't warped (or worse,cracked...). It starts unhesitantly though, rough idle at first but smooths out after about 10-20 seconds, heats up very quickly, started smoking yesterday...NOT STARTING IT AGAIN.

Managed to get an ex-BMW mechanic, recommends the following;

New Gasket (3 dot - whatever that means) - R866 @ stealers
Top overhaul kit - getting quote from stealers today
Head bolts (16 I think @R26 per) - R416 @ stealers
Compression test
Pressure test

In addition;

Thermostat - R815 @ you know who
Waterpump - +/- R1100 @ you know who

You guys will no doubt make things worse by pointing out more things...

Yah neh...

 

[P1000]

Those prices look good to me. Just get it done asap! you don't want water to lie in the cylinders.

 

[sclass]

You're right P1000 but the timing couldn't be anyworse, the guy won't start stripping without half the deposit in his pocket...

 

[zaleonardz]

Sorry I havnt been giving you feedback dude, missed this thread, but it sounds as though you have received the right advice from ppl smarter then me...

I do believe you owe us some respray pics... let us know how the rework of the cooling system goes.

 

[sclass]

Yeah I know I owe you guys some pics! I've just been derailed by the engine gremlins, they've really shifted my focus.

As for smarts, I think this forum is about experiences above all. I believe most of us are just average Joes with above-average interest in our cars and the sharing of our observations build the smarts. So the more people contributing the better! I've learnt more in a month on this forum than I have reading car magazines for the last 5 years! Anyway whatever I go through I'll post on the forum and maybe someone will get helped.

Easy fellas!

 

[FJD]

What things do you guys have that you still want to do on your bmw and what things have you already fixed/replaced etc etc.

I had the intake manifold and profile gaskets replaced with new ones - R4500

Service,diagnostic check and dyno (have to take it again in a month or 2) - R2000

Left rear window,pulley was stuffed,the cable was wrecked.Had to buy a new unit (catch,pulley system,motor etc.) - R2500 (I got this from someone I know for a realy good price)

Still considering to replace my left front headlight with a new one,the right one was cracked so my brother in law replaced with a new one,and now it makes the left side one look extra dull. (still looking for one)

Front right fog light - cracked (still looking for one)

Viscous on the radiator fan - was very noisy but after reading on the web and doing a few tests on it revealed that is still in perfect working condition.


The 2 aircon filters under the hood are missing,still have to replace them.

Remove the catalytic converter and have a resonater fitted (still waiting for a quote.)

On the last service I was told that the wheel bearings needed replacement,but the wheel bearings are still fine. (will see what they say at the next service).

Display cluster on my dash -- Led's have died,need to fix that up...cheap but not looking forward to strip out that cluster.

For some reason the outside temperature is nod reading correctly on my car,it's all fine untill that engine starts to warm up then it seems to pickup the engine temp instead of the air temp.So I'm assuming it's either broken or it might be that it is not located in the right spot where it should be.I have checked at the front of the car on the left side where it is supposed to be but can't find it anywhere ?


Front shocks replaced with new gabriel gas riders - got them for R400 each.

 

[sclass]

This is what I've had done;

-Left front fender R3,000 (new)
-Left front headlamp R2,500 (2nd hand)
-Left tie-rod end R1,500
-Front bumper R2,200 (new)
-Battery R900 (new)
-Tyres x3 (2nd hand) R400 per

Otherwise the interior is PERFECT everything works, oh but I'm not sure about the PDC but that's the least of my worries...

Will be tackling the blown gasket in the next few weeks (all will be revealed then)...:mmm: